Door Insulation

[videobob]

I am building my 14th Delorean Time Machine and this particular one is special because this one is not for a customer, it is for me.
This will be our official shop car and my personal car and I want it to be as perfect as can be.
After building over a dozen of these we know our way around the car and there are little things I have always wanted to do.
This is one of them.

I always thought it was lame that there was no insulation inside the doors other than the headliner.
In Texas, the sun is like a lazer focused on our thermos like cars and you can feel the heat cooking your head.
Especially when you are as big as I am and your bald head is almost touching the headliner!!!
So this is my solution...

This is VIN 5906, October 1981, gray, 5-speed.
As we all know, this is the best run of the car and why I am keeping it!!!

First, let's marvel the "Cave Paintings"
23057[/ATTACH
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1457456_401321369971654_1005932688_n.jpg]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23058
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/379676_401321403304984_424095539_n.jpg

First step was to spray in black rubber to deaden the sound, insulate and use as a glue to hold in the next layer.
23059
https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1456690_401320733305051_1437345497_n.jpg

Next was to add in some silver bubble wrap insulation,
23060
https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/999640_401320746638383_465129144_n.jpg

Next was some good old fashioned R-13 Fiberglass,
23061
https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1458549_401320753305049_2039507427_n.jpg

I sealed this in with some of DMC's fiberglass backed replacement headliners.
I can't wait to get it out next summer and do some temp tests!!!

[Kenny_Z]

My lungs want to close up just thinking about being trapped in that enclosed area with fiberglass insulation inches above my head. I'm allergic though so maybe it won't effect you.

Keep in mind that it will be shedding glass fibers. You will be breathing in these fibers. I think your silver material is more than enough. There's a reason that stuff is not used in cars.

[sdg3205]

My lungs want to close up just thinking about being trapped in that enclosed area with fiberglass insulation inches above my head. I'm allergic though so maybe it won't effect you.

Keep in mind that it will be shedding glass fibers. You will be breathing in these fibers. I think your silver material is more than enough. There's a reason that stuff is not used in cars.

It does look like there is a good lip to put a layer of sealed moisture barrier on to prevent this. Once the fir trees inhabited those holes it would be decently air tight.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I would think you should just build up layers of that foil bubble type you already used. Remember the headliners need to take up some of that space. I like the idea of insulating that area since it has no ill effect and will probably reduce some noise.

[Nicholas R]

This may be a pretty good idea for Florida too. I'm thinking I do something like this next summer too. I'm interested to see the temp test results.

[DrJeff]

I've got some Eastwood Thermocoustic Barrier showing up on Tuesday. I think I'll add this to my list. Shouldn't add too much weight to the doors?

[Tillsy]

I've got some Eastwood Thermocoustic Barrier showing up on Tuesday. I think I'll add this to my list. Shouldn't add too much weight to the doors?

Being directly alongside the hinge point wouldn't impact the strut/torsion weight wise anyway...

[anywhen]

This may be a pretty good idea for Florida too. I'm thinking I do something like this next summer too. I'm interested to see the temp test results.

In the deep south, I joke about riding around in a microwave oven. When I had Rob Grady install a new window motor in my car in Gettysburg, the new motor apparently is heavier than the original. The passenger door now opens slower than the driver side. No big deal but, it is an example of how well these doors are engineered. I would not put to much extra weight on the door. Insulation is very light but the sound deadening material like Dynamat is very heavy.

[SS Spoiler]

What about spraying some foam insulation into the hard to get spots, like the edges of the doors?

[Rich W]

I would think you should just build up layers of that foil bubble type you already used. Remember the headliners need to take up some of that space. I like the idea of insulating that area since it has no ill effect and will probably reduce some noise.

I would follow Dave's recommendation of building up layers of the foil bubble insulation vs. using the home fiberglass type, for a number of reasons.

The biggest reason to not use home fiberglass type of insulation is that the designated insulation value only applies when the fiberglass material
is not compressed. Since the headliner will most likely compress the fiberglass insulation (and reduce the air gap between inner/outer surfaces),
the R-value will be significantly decreased. Other factors, including wicking moisture, will also cause more problems than it will help prevent.

[Lenny]

I've got some Eastwood Thermocoustic Barrier showing up on Tuesday. I think I'll add this to my list. Shouldn't add too much weight to the doors?

I just went to the "Eastwood Thermocoustic Barrier" website and saw this note

• Maximum service temp, 140F. Not to be applied to overhead areas such as roof, hood or trunk lid

Bob, what kind of "Spray Rubber" did you use? Like Nick I live in Florida I'd be a little worried about the extreme heat melting the rubber. I like the foil bubble idea.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd be most interested to know what the black spray-on stuff does when it hits 140 degrees out on the sun.
---oops - missed Lenny's post . . .

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'd be most interested to know what the black spray-on stuff does when it hits 140 degrees out on the sun.
---oops - missed Lenny's post . . .

Don't think you really need anything to hold the insulation on the door. The headliner should hold it fine.

[DrJeff]

Could it be as simple as a layer of radiant barrier? If heat is the key issue and not noise, then a thin reflective layer could suffice. This gets away from the need for adhesives or heavy rubber layers.

[louielouie2000]

I've always wondered why people ignored this area of the car when it comes to sound deadening/insulation. The easy remedy to avoiding adhesives letting go of the roof due to heat is to attach any insulation/sound deadening material to the headliner backer boards vs the roof. This would probably only work if your car has the reproduction fiberglass boards, or if you beefed up/used some sort of sealer on the original cardboard ones.

By the way, does that black rubber spray degas? All I can think about is once that stuff gets heated up in the 110 degree August Texas sun that you'll have one stinky DeLorean interior on your hands.

[Lenny]

By the way, does that black rubber spray degas? All I can think about is once that stuff gets heated up in the 110 degree August Texas sun that you'll have one stinky DeLorean interior on your hands.

Also melting and having black goo on your headliner. Bob, where are you from? We'll find out this summer what happens.

I agree that the sound deadening would make a big difference placed on the roof and door. I'd like to do something.

[Kenny_Z]

I put a version of dynamat on that area of the door when I first got Red. Over 2 years later and it hasn't come off or melted onto anything else. I didn't think about the silver reflective material when I did that or I would have put that in there as well. I'll probably do that over the winter when I redo the headliners again. To be honest I didn't notice any difference in heat or noise after installation. Tapping on it obviously shows a difference but it seems like that small area doesn't contribute much to the noise or heat.

[LEVY]

I put a version of dynamat on that area of the door when I first got Red. Over 2 years later and it hasn't come off or melted onto anything else. I didn't think about the silver reflective material when I did that or I would have put that in there as well. I'll probably do that over the winter when I redo the headliners again. To be honest I didn't notice any difference in heat or noise after installation. Tapping on it obviously shows a difference but it seems like that small area doesn't contribute much to the noise or heat.

Reflective material doesn't help much if it is in the dark.

Also building fiberglass insulation was not designed to be used on a moving vehicle, it may cause fiberglass particles to fly all over.

LEVY

[videobob]

The black rubber is made for spraying under your car, on the frame, in a trunk, wheel wells, etc.
I think it will be fine.
As for fiberglass insulation, it is in every wall that surrounds you, in the floor, and usually the attic too. They wrap the vents that carry all of the air in your house in it. The car is made of it. I think it will be fine all sealed up in there.

[thirdmanj]

As for fiberglass insulation, it is in every wall that surrounds you, in the floor, and usually the attic too. They wrap the vents that carry all of the air in your house in it. The car is made of it. I think it will be fine all sealed up in there.

Umm, you're joking right? Are you seriously likening VARI fiberglass to that pink home insulation? They're not comparable at all. Aside from the very obvious fact that they're from completely different styles of manufacture and intended for very different applications. Your house isn't operated under the same stresses as a car is. It's static for the most part, and not exposed in living spaces. It's separated by flooring, and at the very least a solid layer of drywall. Your house doesn't get bumped around by opening doors and roads. ...but where you're going you don't need roads, right? Hey, it's your deal. Seal it up well, friendo.

[Byrne H&A]

The is a $10,000,000 trust fund available to those who suffer mesothelioma as consequence of fiber glass in their lungs. The fiber has a hook shape and cannot be expelled from the lungs. Suggest you consider an alternative. Byrne

[Byrne H&A]

My apology,
Mesothelioma is a disease cause by asbestos fiber infection and not fiber glass--there goes my mail order medical degree.

[Spittybug]

Reflective material doesn't help much if it is in the dark.

Also building fiberglass insulation was not designed to be used on a moving vehicle, it may cause fiberglass particles to fly all over.

LEVY

:hysterical:good one. We'll just ignore the non-visible wavelengths, ok?

[Mark D]

The black rubber is made for spraying under your car, on the frame, in a trunk, wheel wells, etc.
I think it will be fine.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23188&d=1385393328
:tongue_stick:

[Lenny]

Honestly that was my first thought. The cut and paste of Bob is priceless.

[LEVY]

:hysterical:good one. We'll just ignore the non-visible wavelengths, ok?

Yes, we may ignore the "non-visible wavelenghts", unless of course those non-visible wavelenghts are capable of going thru stainless steel.

LEVY

[videobob]

Just so you all don't shit yourselves with worry about me, we will promptly remove the insulation and make sure we replace it with something sterile
and approved for road use, then I will drive it by the local church and get it blessed, checked by the FDA and then sent for inspection by my local nurse.
Thanks for all your concern and meme's, really, it means a lot!!!

[videobob]

BTW, we instead used 1" of foam rubber.
Thank you.

[Tillsy]

I would also strongly urge you to replace the headliner fir-trees with self-sealing stem bolts just to be absolutely certain ;)