Door Swap?

[TTait]

Where can I find a write up on a door swap?

[Byrne H&A]

Where can I find a write up on a door swap?

The procedure is very straight forward.
Remove torsion bar.
Remove T panel and disconnect wiring. Flush electrical connection with cleaner. Clean and seal area while there.
Disconnect door hinges but not body hinges.
Reverse procedure.
Byrne

[GS450-Junkie]

The real question is why are you swapping? Unless you have major damage or issues I would avoid this. Big $$ and a ton of headaches to get this done and everything adjusted correctly.

[Josh]

If you decide to swap your door feel free to pm me with any questions... Byrne outlined the process in its simplest form, but there are many little details and issues in terms of the re-installation.

A very important tip... Have a friend help! Makes everything so much easier. If you are stubborn like me it can be done by yourself though. I dont recommend this however.

[TTait]

The door is damaged and not repairable - it could get bondo and used on a painted car, but I don't want to paint the car.

I appreciate the overview, and the offer of help. I'll take you up on it.

I'm sure there are do's and dont's that make a difference, for example I assume I want to leave the hinges attached to the car, not the door. Do I want to re-install the torsion bar with a protective sleeve (Un-shrunk heat shrink?) or not do that so its easier to inspect?

I saw a write up years ago at least on the torsion bar portion of the process - described the spacers, tools and steps - but cannot even find that.

By the way - I'm in LA - maybe someone local has done it before and could lend a hand? The favor can be returned...

Tom

PS - if anyone needs a passenger door for a painted car, send me a pm.

[David T]

Undoing the torsion bar is a modified procedure to adjusting it. The biggest difference is when you install the tool you need to be sure you have adequate "swing" left to undo all of the tension. You can always slip a split cover over the torsion bar afterwards. Yes, leave the hinges on the car to start. If you are swapping all of the parts over then remove them before removing the door to make it a little lighter. I would recommend assistance so you don't damage or scratch anything, doors are heavy and awkward to hold. Make sure the car can't move while doing this. Chock the wheels. Take your time, you may have to adjust the door many times till you get it the way you want. Moving it one way to correct one adjustment will affect others. It may be necessary to adjust some of the adjoining S/S panels to get a nice fit. The door gets adjusted to the fiberglass underbody, NOT the other panels.

[TTait]

Undoing the torsion bar is a modified procedure to adjusting it.

I know there was a write up describing that, maybe on the old site?

[eagle-co94]

I'd offer to help as I just removed the driver's door my 10077 and have been physically laying it back on the car in between pulling parts since I sold a hinge. I can be done alone if you build the jig, but a second person around is convenient.

[TTait]

I was just down there a few weeks ago for work - funny. I'd have come by to help you out if timing was different!

[Josh]

In the whole scheme of things, removing and installing the torsion bar is fairly insignificant. It can be done by yourself (without a jig), but once again I do not recommend this. With two people (without a jig) it can be removed or installed in 10 minutes. It is not as terrible as most people make it out to be. You will need a long breaker bar (2ft) with a hex bit (3/8" I believe) and a ratchet with a 13mm socket. Open the door and remove the strut. Hold the door open with a 2x4 or ratchet strap it to the roof. You cant to open the door so the roof portion is perpendicular to the t panel, this takes extra spring out of the torsion bar. Put the breaker bar on the torsion bar (perpendicular to the floor) and hold it steady as the second person removes the bolts. Have them slide the plate outwards (onto the socket towards the breaker bar) then slowly release pressure on the torsion bar. The torsion bars are twist the same direction of the door, so the breaker par will come towards you. It should only rotate about 45 degrees. Installation is just the reverse of this.

As David said, when fitting the door, fit it to the tub, not the surrounding panels. If you have a bare tub, you install the doors, then work outwards. All panel alignment is a product of the door alignment essentially.

[David T]

In the whole scheme of things, removing and installing the torsion bar is fairly insignificant. It can be done by yourself (without a jig), but once again I do not recommend this. With two people (without a jig) it can be removed or installed in 10 minutes. It is not as terrible as most people make it out to be. You will need a long breaker bar (2ft) with a hex bit (3/8" I believe) and a ratchet with a 13mm socket. Open the door and remove the strut. Hold the door open with a 2x4 or ratchet strap it to the roof. You cant to open the door so the roof portion is perpendicular to the t panel, this takes extra spring out of the torsion bar. Put the breaker bar on the torsion bar (perpendicular to the floor) and hold it steady as the second person removes the bolts. Have them slide the plate outwards (onto the socket towards the breaker bar) then slowly release pressure on the torsion bar. The torsion bars are twist the same direction of the door, so the breaker par will come towards you. It should only rotate about 45 degrees. Installation is just the reverse of this.

As David said, when fitting the door, fit it to the tub, not the surrounding panels. If you have a bare tub, you install the doors, then work outwards. All panel alignment is a product of the door alignment essentially.

Releasing all of the tension in the torsion bar takes almost 90 degrees. It all sounds so easy till you do it and find stripped bolts, messed up splines so you can't slide the anchor bracket off easily, a split at the end of the torsion bar in the hex so your tool expands the hex, and so on. There are a few things that can go wrong and ruin your day. Making a mark with a soft pencil on the torsion bar and the anchor bracket will help you in reassembly. I would NEVER suggest working alone and trying to remove a torsion bar. Yes, it can be done and has been done but that still does not make it a good idea. Making a jig to remove the door is a lot of extra work when an assistant is a much better choice. If you don't use a jig to undo the torsion bar you should remove the sunshade and not use an extension.

[DrJeff]

Releasing all of the tension in the torsion bar takes almost 90 degrees. .... If you don't use a jig to undo the torsion bar you should remove the sunshade and not use an extension.

I would strongly recommend building a jig, using the right tools and having an assistant or two. Leaving enough angle to release the tension means starting at the position that gives you the maximum sweep. My assistant used a 3 ft cheater bar and the force needed was easily manageable. The mistake I made was that if the jig, cheater, and assistant is de-torquing enough then you should be able to remove the bracket bolts and put them back in with just your finger pressure. Essentially that means that the bracket and this torsion bar is not leaning on the bolt. The assistant needs to get the counter torque force just right to take all the force off the bracket.

[David T]

I would strongly recommend building a jig, using the right tools and having an assistant or two. Leaving enough angle to release the tension means starting at the position that gives you the maximum sweep. My assistant used a 3 ft cheater bar and the force needed was easily manageable. The mistake I made was that if the jig, cheater, and assistant is de-torquing enough then you should be able to remove the bracket bolts and put them back in with just your finger pressure. Essentially that means that the bracket and this torsion bar is not leaning on the bolt. The assistant needs to get the counter torque force just right to take all the force off the bracket.

That is why you need the extension support if you are not removing the sunshade and using a 2 foot extension. As for the jig to hold the door I have seen of some creative ones including ropes from the ceiling of a garage. In all cases you MUST keep the car immobile or the door can come off the jig and slam shut. Do not depend on the parking brake or keeping it in gear, block the wheels. Without the torsion bar and the strut that door is heavy and can hurt you.

[mluder]

That is why you need the extension support if you are not removing the sunshade and using a 2 foot extension. As for the jig to hold the door I have seen of some creative ones including ropes from the ceiling of a garage. In all cases you MUST keep the car immobile or the door can come off the jig and slam shut. Do not depend on the parking brake or keeping it in gear, block the wheels. Without the torsion bar and the strut that door is heavy and can hurt you.

Alternatively you can support the door by propping against the sill. This removes the issue of the prop slipping if the car should move. Don't get me wrong, you should still choc the wheels but this adds additional security.

Cheers
Steven

[Josh]

Alternatively you can support the door by propping against the sill. This removes the issue of the prop slipping if the car should move. Don't get me wrong, you should still choc the wheels but this adds additional security.

Cheers
Steven

If you have ever taken the plastic sill off, you may notice it is made of very thin metal. I don't think this would be a good idea.

[David T]

If you have ever taken the plastic sill off, you may notice it is made of very thin metal. I don't think this would be a good idea.

Propping the door open against the sill is OK, I do it all the time to adjust the torsion bars. You can't do that if you have a jig to support the door while you are replacing it. The jig would be on the floor and if the car moved you would have a bad day.