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View Full Version : General Valve Cover Gasket



lazabby
12-16-2013, 09:25 PM
Can the valve cover gasket be picked up from an auto store or is it something that needs to be ordered from DMC?

Delorean Industries
12-16-2013, 09:40 PM
We stock brand new gaskets cut from modern material. 9.95 per side. Much better than stock. Here is our product release info:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?8282-Delorean-Performance-Ind-manufacturing-gaskets-for-fluid-handling

David T
12-16-2013, 10:02 PM
Can the valve cover gasket be picked up from an auto store or is it something that needs to be ordered from DMC?

The only way you might find it local is if a Volvo dealer has some old stock.

jmettee
12-17-2013, 09:14 AM
www.rockauto.com has them for ~$5/side right now (plus shipping)

outatym2001
12-17-2013, 12:57 PM
DO NOT buy the new and improved Valve (Rocker) Cover Gasket rom DMC Houston.
Last August the new Gaskets were installed in my daily driver DeLorean and I paid the bill on August 5, 2013. Three months later I went back because both Valve Cover Gaskets were leaking onto the engine and that was November 4, 2013. The driver side Gasket leaked onto the Exhaust Manifold and onto the Catalytic Converter thus producing smoke. The passenger side Gasket leaked towards the Spark Plugs.
DMC Northwest performed the installation both times and what Gasket they used the second time around I have no idea but it was not the new and improved Gaskets.
The sad thing is the new and improved Gaskets were installed by DMC NW on many DeLoreans before mine and only time will tell whether they last or not.

kings1527
12-17-2013, 08:23 PM
I have new gaskets from DMC CA and I haven't had any issues. They've been on since about four months ago and 2k miles. Although, I do use a bead Right Stuff on the engine surface and the rocker cover surface.

Bitsyncmaster
12-18-2013, 05:24 AM
I used DPI rocker cover gaskets which fit perfect. I used the Right Stuff sealer with those gaskets and it looks like no leaks but I have not put many miles on it yet since.

Patrick C
12-18-2013, 07:10 PM
I have Hervey's super thick gaskets and the bolts are torqued to specs. They leak.

Josh
12-19-2013, 01:22 AM
www.rockauto.com has them for ~$5/side right now (plus shipping)

IIRC they ship out of Europe which drives the shipping cost up a lot. I have Josh's and they are great.

jmettee
12-19-2013, 07:20 AM
IIRC they ship out of Europe which drives the shipping cost up a lot. I have Josh's and they are great.

Shipping to me is $10, so for $20 you have a set of gaskets. Still seems to be the cheapest option if price is concerned.


I don't know why type of gaskets they were, but when I did a valve adjustment last year, I used a set I had laying around from DMCH. I use RTV to bond mine to the valve cover & nothing on the engine surface. I do this so I can easily clean the gasket sealant off of the valve cover on a bench & not worry about having to clean the engine up (or dropping pieces of it into the valvetrain).

delornut
12-19-2013, 11:22 AM
The only way you might find it local is if a Volvo dealer has some old stock.

I had a set I got from a Volvo dealer several years ago. I used them following a valve adjustment and many miles later after another valve adjustment they looked fine so I used them again, never with any sealers and they've never leaked. I don't like to use sealer on something that's routinely taken apart for servicing unless as it's a total mess to get right the next time you take things apart. The factory didn't use sealer on the valve covers. One thing I've been curious about is the Volvo gaskets were of a different material for each side. I can't remember which side was which but one side seemed thicker than the other and of an obviously different material.

Bruce Benson

David T
12-19-2013, 01:43 PM
I had a set I got from a Volvo dealer several years ago. I used them following a valve adjustment and many miles later after another valve adjustment they looked fine so I used them again, never with any sealers and they've never leaked. I don't like to use sealer on something that's routinely taken apart for servicing unless as it's a total mess to get right the next time you take things apart. The factory didn't use sealer on the valve covers. One thing I've been curious about is the Volvo gaskets were of a different material for each side. I can't remember which side was which but one side seemed thicker than the other and of an obviously different material.

Bruce Benson

What we used to do "in the good old days" was to use sealant only on one side, usually the valve cover, so the gasket would stay with that and if it had to be removed and replaced it was easier to do it from the cover so you wouldn't get all the pieces in the motor. We didn't have silicone. With today's gaskets many say you should not use ANY sealer of any kind. You need to go by the manufacturer's recommendations. On the older cars they had sheetmetal covers that easily bent if they were overtightened and then they leaked. Most cars today have cast covers thet do not bend easily but they can crack if overtightened.

Chris4099
12-20-2013, 12:51 PM
I have Hervey's super thick gaskets and the bolts are torqued to specs. They leak.

I got his about 7 years ago. I put them on dry with nothing else. I torqued one side and just did the other side by hand. No leaks. Not sure what happened with yours. When I do another adjustment in a few years, I'll probably buy his again. Currently just $10 for a set of both sides.

Ryan S.
12-21-2013, 09:23 PM
Is there any instructions or guides on how to remove valve covers? Passenger side is leaking and need to replace gasket. It looks like I may need to remove alternator first.
Also I see PO used RTV or some sort of gray stuff between valve covers. Is there a good way to remove them without dropping any gray stuff into engine?
Thank you

elfking
12-21-2013, 09:40 PM
Is there any instructions or guides on how to remove valve covers? Passenger side is leaking and need to replace gasket. It looks like I may need to remove alternator first.
Also I see PO used RTV or some sort of gray stuff between valve covers. Is there a good way to remove them without dropping any gray stuff into engine?
Thank you

If your alternator was relocated to the top of the engine then I would imagine you would need to ... In stock from the alternator is under the engine as far as I am aware... I can't recall your car though from the time I was there at your place for that BBQ.

When I pulled mine is was just taking the frequency valve out of the way and I think a few wires out of the loom and removing the air cleaner / pipes for the air cleaner.. Then just the bolts..

The driver side has the AC compressor and that mess of various hoses that needed to be scooted out of the way as well.

As far as the RTV it's never any fun to clean up of someone went crazy applying it unfortunately I have no recommendations there..

Ryan S.
12-22-2013, 02:30 AM
Thanks Brian. It looked like the alternator was attached to the valve cover but may be not. My alternator is from SpecialTauto.
I will try to remove the valve cover carefully when I get the gaskets.


If your alternator was relocated to the top of the engine then I would imagine you would need to ... In stock from the alternator is under the engine as far as I am aware... I can't recall your car though from the time I was there at your place for that BBQ.

When I pulled mine is was just taking the frequency valve out of the way and I think a few wires out of the loom and removing the air cleaner / pipes for the air cleaner.. Then just the bolts..

The driver side has the AC compressor and that mess of various hoses that needed to be scooted out of the way as well.

As far as the RTV it's never any fun to clean up of someone went crazy applying it unfortunately I have no recommendations there..

jmettee
12-22-2013, 09:39 AM
The alternator pivot is not attached to the valve covers, but the upper muffler mount bracket is. There are 2 bolts that are annoying to get to, but these need to be removed (13mm head IIRC). The bracket can be pushed out of the way.

RECOMMEND DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - especially if working from below with sockets & extensions to get those 2 bolts. Accidentally striking the +12V alternator stud with your tools can be a "shocking" experience.

Ryan S.
12-22-2013, 09:55 AM
Thanks for some good tips Justin, especially the battery disconnect. Such a pita to disconnect battery but better then getting zapped. I really should get a battery disconnect switch.

elfking
12-22-2013, 10:53 AM
The alternator pivot is not attached to the valve covers, but the upper muffler mount bracket is. There are 2 bolts that are annoying to get to, but these need to be removed (13mm head IIRC). The bracket can be pushed out of the way.

RECOMMEND DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - especially if working from below with sockets & extensions to get those 2 bolts. Accidentally striking the +12V alternator stud with your tools can be a "shocking" experience.

Ah right that muffler bracket... On my car someone had mucked with the bracket or muffler at one point and used a coat hanger in place of that upper bracket so I forgot about that... I did fix it later and it was annoying to line it all up again...

Hope you get it all sorted out... In general for anything with RTV I've always just taken some extra time and cleaned up as much as best I could .. Tiny little specs while annoying a few shouldn't be any problem you just don't want huge chunks floating around for sure... I'm sure if you just spend a few min you will get it all.

Maybe when your cleaning up the leftovers if it's on the block side you can put something like a tag down that when you scrape it clean it falls on the rag... Then you can carefully lift the rag out with RTV contents and shake into the trash and repeat.

Not sure it's the most efficient method but might help...

David T
12-22-2013, 11:43 AM
Ah right that muffler bracket... On my car someone had mucked with the bracket or muffler at one point and used a coat hanger in place of that upper bracket so I forgot about that... I did fix it later and it was annoying to line it all up again...

Hope you get it all sorted out... In general for anything with RTV I've always just taken some extra time and cleaned up as much as best I could .. Tiny little specs while annoying a few shouldn't be any problem you just don't want huge chunks floating around for sure... I'm sure if you just spend a few min you will get it all.

Maybe when your cleaning up the leftovers if it's on the block side you can put something like a tag down that when you scrape it clean it falls on the rag... Then you can carefully lift the rag out with RTV contents and shake into the trash and repeat.

Not sure it's the most efficient method but might help...

Once you get the valve cover off you can stuff the motor with rags to prevent dirt from getting inside. Removing RTV is a WHOLE lot easier than baked on gasket. It is a good idea after doing the valve covers to soon do an oil change to get rid of any dirt that got away from you.

Ryan S.
12-22-2013, 01:15 PM
Thanks David and Brian. It's time for oil change so it will work out well. Anything else I should do while I open the valve cover? Other than clean and shine cover for cosmetic reason. Should I do this for both sides? Driver side doesn't look like it's leaking. I really don't want to fix something that is not broken.

Chris4099
12-22-2013, 01:48 PM
One trick with that upper muffler bracket that's attached to the valve cover is to unbolt the bushing instead. With the two small bolts removed, you can slide the bushing to the side and then have plenty of space to remove the valve cover with the bracket still attached. It might take a little bit of maneuvering to clear the valves and the muffler hanger, but it should be possible.

While you are there you could also adjust the valves. I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not to only do one side though, so I'll leave that up to someone else to cover. If it's been over 30K miles since the last adjustment, then you really should just do both sides anyway as it's due.

Bitsyncmaster
12-22-2013, 03:31 PM
One trick with that upper muffler bracket that's attached to the valve cover is to unbolt the bushing instead. With the two small bolts removed, you can slide the bushing to the side and then have plenty of space to remove the valve cover with the bracket still attached. It might take a little bit of maneuvering to clear the valves and the muffler hanger, but it should be possible.


That's what I did when I just did my gaskets. But it makes installing the cover with a gasket covered with wet RTV. You have to angle it just right not to hit that sealer on things installing.

jawn101
12-24-2013, 06:12 PM
Thanks David and Brian. It's time for oil change so it will work out well. Anything else I should do while I open the valve cover? Other than clean and shine cover for cosmetic reason. Should I do this for both sides? Driver side doesn't look like it's leaking. I really don't want to fix something that is not broken.

Hey Ryan, I just saw your posts here in this thread. I think you were with us when we did mine (one of the many times) not long ago but it's super easy to do. We can even set up a time to do it with you if you like, maybe.

Ryan S.
12-24-2013, 08:17 PM
That sounds awesome. I think I would need some help with valve adjustments also. I'll fire up the grill and do some Korean BBQ. Sounds good?