Any usual suspect[s] for this leak?

[Rich_NYS]

-Not sure I'm correlating these pictures properly, but I'm attempting to show one side, then the other. The leak looks to me like it's coming from above. Valve cover gasket maybe? Are there any usual causes of this type of leak w/this engine?



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[Bitsyncmaster]

Very common to have rocker cover gasket leaks at the back end (rear). The cover has to seal the head and rear cover so it's not one continuous casting. Even though using a sealer is an effort to put on and get off, don't see any other way to get a perfect seal.

[Jonathan]

Not sure this is all the same leak, or correlation of pictures, but oil dripping on the drivers side in the vicinity of above the catalytic converter (or down on to it anyway), can be from a leaky seal around the oil sender. Could be just the crush washer in there is the problem or the sender itself. Either way, a new sender is <$20 and might be an okay thing to get a new one anyway. The sender on this side does your idiot light as opposed to the bell shaped one on the passenger side which does the analog/oil pressure needle gauge (fyi).

If that's not it, I think it was that scoundrel Dean Keaton...

[Rich_NYS]

Not sure this is all the same leak, or correlation of pictures, but oil dripping on the drivers side in the vicinity of above the catalytic converter (or down on to it anyway), can be from a leaky seal around the oil sender. Could be just the crush washer in there is the problem or the sender itself. Either way, a new sender is <$20 and might be an okay thing to get a new one anyway. The sender on this side does your idiot light as opposed to the bell shaped one on the passenger side which does the analog/oil pressure needle gauge (fyi).

Can you help me steer me in the direction of the oil sender so I can check when I go for a 2nd look at the car?

Is it visible from above or below, and will I be able to see it without moving anything out of the way?




If that's not it, I think it was that scoundrel Dean Keaton...

Hahaha....well then, =IF(("Dean Keaton"="The Usual Suspect");("Verbal Kent"=null);"Keyser Söze")

[Ron]

Can you help me steer me in the direction of the oil sender so I can check when I go for a 2nd look at the car?

...in your third pic, upper right hand corner, with a wire going to it.

[Jonathan]

Was editing this just as Ron commented...

See the photo:

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Part can be found here as numbers 3 and 4 (#4 is the crush/sealing washer).

http://store.delorean.com/c-269-1-2-0-oil-pumpfilter.aspx

I believe the sealing washer is a Hungarian model. The greatest trick you can pull is to convince yourself the leak doesn't exist. If you change out that sealing washer, I'd bet you'll never see this leak again. And like that, poof, it was gone.

[NightFlyer]

First rule with any leak is to identify exactly what kind of fluid is leaking - coolant, oil, trans fluid / gear oil, hydraulic fluid, fuel, or freon / mineral oil.

Based on locations alone, I'm definitely thinking engine oil. And as already stated by others above, it looks like rocker/valve cover gaskets (which you'd need to do regardless) and/or potential sender seals/washers, which aren't a huge deal at all.

[David T]

The oil sender unit on the driver's side is a VERY common leak. It is not usually the copper gasket to the block. It is usually the sender itself. It can be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled using silicone sealer or you can replace it. The wire going to it gets all burnt up from the heat and eventually grounds out and scaring the driver when it lights up the low oil pressure warning light. Either replace that section of wire with high temperature insulation or slip a heat resistant sleeve over it. When removing the sender be prepared for a lot of oil to come out. When the sender leaks it looks like a leaky pan gasket because of the way the oil hit the rail and spreads all around the motor.

[Rich_NYS]

So far I'm reading very promising news in these replies. Thanks, I'll let ya know how things go.

[Bitsyncmaster]

First rule with any leak is to identify exactly what kind of fluid is leaking - coolant, oil, trans fluid / gear oil, hydraulic fluid, fuel, or freon / mineral oil.

Based on locations alone, I'm definitely thinking engine oil. And as already stated by others above, it looks like rocker/valve cover gaskets (which you'd need to do regardless) and/or potential sender seals/washers, which aren't a huge deal at all.

+1
I had a leak I chased down thinking it was coolant but turned out to be a leaking fuel return line pipe coupling.

[kbrown84]

just replaced the copper washer on my oil sender and it took care of my oil leak...just glad it wasnt the rear main...
also managed to install a new autotrans governor and got everything sealed up with no leaks the first go round...but know i have the awesome task of cleaning the last 15 years worth of leaking oil off of EVERYTHING under the car.

KB

[Rich_NYS]

just replaced the copper washer on my oil sender and it took care of my oil leak...just glad it wasnt the rear main...
also managed to install a new autotrans governor and got everything sealed up with no leaks the first go round...but know i have the awesome task of cleaning the last 15 years worth of leaking oil off of EVERYTHING under the car.

KB

Rear main is what I've been worried about, but seeing these responses (and the direction the leak is coming from) has me in pretty optimistic. Years ago I worked on a lot of other cars and would spray engine cleaner on everything, then hose it off. Can engine cleaner be used on this engine as well, or is there a reason not to?

[Jonathan]

Rich,

Combining this thread and another one... you asked about estimates on getting exhaust manifold gaskets done as well.

The last time I took my car to a shop to get something "major" done (that I wasn't prepared to tackle myself), was the exhaust manifold gaskets and the rear drive axle seals. The mechanic did the exhaust gaskets including at least two snapped studs/helicoils in stud holes, and took the entire rear axle out for clean up, lube, boot replacements as well as new seals right at the transmission. There might have been some other miscellaenous inspections done on brakes or the fuel lines underneath as well, but the exhaust work and rear axle were the big ones. I supplied the parts and I think the labor bill for everything was about $900.

Not sure if this car of yours is leaking at the rear axle or not, but thought I'd mention to give you some more information.

[David T]

Rear main is what I've been worried about, but seeing these responses (and the direction the leak is coming from) has me in pretty optimistic. Years ago I worked on a lot of other cars and would spray engine cleaner on everything, then hose it off. Can engine cleaner be used on this engine as well, or is there a reason not to?

Do not use engine cleaner on the top of the motor but you can use it on the sides and the bottom. Stay away from the top with water. If it gets into the spark plug wells or the distributor the motor won't run. Get the motor hot and let the cleaner sit for a few minutes before hosing it off. You might want to scrub with a brush before rinsing and you may have to repeat. Use eye protection. If you can't find engine cleaner, oven cleaner also works and is cheaper.

[NightFlyer]

Rear main is what I've been worried about, but seeing these responses (and the direction the leak is coming from) has me in pretty optimistic. Years ago I worked on a lot of other cars and would spray engine cleaner on everything, then hose it off. Can engine cleaner be used on this engine as well, or is there a reason not to?

You can blast the whole thing with carb cleaner or something similar (such as lacquer thinner) - I did mine in small sections at a time in 3 stages (blast, scrub with brush, blast clean) and it worked pretty good :smile:

Otherwise, if using a typical engine cleaner and hosing off with water, you'll want to cover the plug holes, fuel mixture unit, and electrical components well before doing so to avoid any trouble that could potentially arise from doing so...

[David T]

You can blast the whole thing with carb cleaner or something similar (such as lacquer thinner) - I did mine in small sections at a time in 3 stages (blast, scrub with brush, blast clean) and it worked pretty good :smile:

Otherwise, if using a typical engine cleaner and hosing off with water, you'll want to cover the plug holes, fuel mixture unit, and electrical components well before doing so to avoid any trouble that could potentially arise from doing so...

You want to use engine cleaner instead of a strong solvent if you can. Engine cleaners like GUNK will also treat the aluminum and brighten it, solvents will only remove dirt and grease. Solvents will create a mess and be dangerous and you can't rinse them off with water. Engine cleaner can also work where you can't reach easily with a brush. The best method is to find someone with a steam cleaner. Maybe a truck stop. That will blast ALL the dirt off and shine things up. Most shops that work on heavy trucks or big construction equipment will have a steam cleaner. They like things clean before they have to take it apart or look for leaks. Just stay away from the top of the motor. Cleaning with solvent is good for spot cleaning. I cleaned my whole frame with Lacquer Thinner before a Concours. Big job. Especially with a little toothbrush!