Pitted Y-Pipe at the O-Rings

[DrJeff]

I was cleaning up the Y-Pipe and Coolant Return pipe today as part of my VOD clean-up, EFI, and turning into a major while-you're-in-there!!!

Anyways I spotted some pitting on the Y-pipe principally in the area where the o-ring is located. Is this normal? Should I be concerned and if so is there a remedy?

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[Delorean Industries]

I was cleaning up the Y-Pipe and Coolant Return pipe today as part of my VOD clean-up, EFI, and turning into a major while-you're-in-there!!!

Anyways I spotted some pitting on the Y-pipe principally in the area where the o-ring is located. Is this normal? Should I be concerned and if so is there a remedy?

24202242032420424205

We normally machine the surface when this happens. The other option is to outright replace the component. The bad option is to jb weld which I would never recommend. The worst option is to put it back together like that and hope for the best.

[NightFlyer]

I wonder if you couldn't fill the pits with aluminum putty or an Alumaloy rod type of material, and then sand the surface flat/true. If I were in this boat, it's what I'd personally try.

I'm guessing that others will flame this recommendation however...

[DrJeff]

We normally machine the surface when this happens. The other option is to outright replace the component. ...

A replacement runs $100+, so machining has got to be cheap and easy, no?

[Delorean Industries]

A replacement runs $100+, so machining has got to be cheap and easy, no?

Yes that is what I would do. Sand blast the piece first to remove all corrosion and see how deep the damage is. A local machine shop should be able to do a clean up cut over it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder if you couldn't fill the pits with aluminum putty or an Alumaloy rod type of material, and then sand the surface flat/true. If I were in this boat, it's what I'd personally try.

I'm guessing that others will flame this recommendation however...

Looks like you would need to machine a lot off to clean that up.

I would not trust an epoxy to work at 200 deg F.

I've used aluminum soldering with good results on an aluminum pipe on my air compressor (125 PSI). It would be harder to solder that large Y pipe but if your going to trash it anyway.....Try it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Looks like you would need to machine a lot off to clean that up.

it.

You can machine quite a bit off without hurting anything. It's a very un-critical fit, remember the other end of that pipe is connecting to a rubber hose. All that really matters is that the two flanges on the y-pipe are parallel and straight. (This means that just trying to sand or grind them flat yourself is probably difficult, you really need a machine that can do both at the same time to insure that they are flat with each other.

We re-machine every one we take off for service, and probably have to throw away only one in 20 of them due to corrosion that's too deep to get out comfortably.

[DMC5180]

Looks Like .030 - .060 worth of surface milling should take care of it. Figure 1/2 hour machine shop time with the setup $50 minimum. It might be less depending on there generosity.

[DrJeff]

I found a machine shop here in Katy TX (that does automotive - they mostly do oil and gas). I've contacted them to see if they can do the work. It looks like they do adapters and flanges for engine customization.

Thanks for the help guys.

[DrJeff]

So if a shop said they could fix my y-pipe with a belt sander... Would that be a good thing or a bad thing? I have to say I was expecting something like a milling machine.

[DMC5180]

So if a shop said they could fix my y-pipe with a belt sander... Would that be a good thing or a bad thing? I have to say I was expecting something like a milling machine.

Not that a belt sander wouldn't work IF done properly. But you run the risk of Crowning the surfaces. Insist they do surface milling.

[DMCMW Dave]

Not that a belt sander wouldn't work IF done properly. But you run the risk of Crowning the surfaces. Insist they do surface milling.

It's really hard to get it straight with a belt sander, and if it isn't straight the agony of doing it all over is pretty high. Find another shop.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Not that a belt sander wouldn't work IF done properly. But you run the risk of Crowning the surfaces. Insist they do surface milling.

I agree. I even have a very large bench belt sander and would suspect the leading edge would crown a little using that.

[David T]

I agree. I even have a very large bench belt sander and would suspect the leading edge would crown a little using that.

I would not hesitate to use a belt sander but a lot has to do with experience, how much materiel you are removing, and the equipment you are using. The part is difficult to hold properly in a milling machine and if not done properly it can be damaged that way too. Bottom line, the part may be salvagable but if it is very corroded it has to be considered unusable. If damaged by trying to save it by sanding you have lost nothing. Another possible solution could be welding and grinding it. At some point it can cost more to try repairing the part than replacing it. If you remove a LOT of materiel be careful the bolts are not so long as to bottom out before getting the joint tight. You might have to use washers or shorten the bolts. Even if you do not get it perfectly flat it is still worth a try. No biggie if it leaks, just test it BEFORE you put the intake manifold back on. Use some silicone on the "O" rings and Never-Seize on the bolts.

[NightFlyer]

Again, I'd personally attempt the repair myself before spending money at a machine shop. However, I'd personally try filling the pits and sanding the excess filler down to the existing flat surface as opposed to just removing material. That way, if your attempted repair doesn't work, you still have the option of removing material. If you botch a straight material removal repair, then you don't have a second chance, are SOL, and will have to procure a new part.

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/

http://www.jbweld.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/HighHeat.jpg

http://www.alumaloy.com/

http://static.wixstatic.com/media/f26592_6fd3b09d7c4d647d49ae43ddf50c55fc.jpg_srz_p_ 255_180_75_22_0.50_1.20_0.00_jpg_srz

[Bitsyncmaster]

That high heat epoxy looks interesting. Never saw that before. Looks like something I would try and anyone can do it.

[David T]

I would hesitate using an epoxy. The heat may soften it enough to leak. Welding is the way to go.

[SupercoolBill]

Just machined my Y-pipe to make it usable.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231129/f8834f3b400f4f4c9cb0e2cedf929475.jpg

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