Where is the forward drivers side engine hoist ring?

[jangell]

I finally got the hard-to-reach transmission mount bolts out and I think I have everything else disconnected, so it's time to fit the hoist and lift the engine.

I have my engine leveler mounted on the hoist. The leveler had these L-shaped brackets on the end of ots chains that didn't fit well with the lift rings, so I removed the rings and bolted the leveler brackets directly to the engine.

The problem is I can't find the ring on the forward driver's side of the engine, which I think should be near the distributor. At least that seems to be what figure 18 in C:04:03 in the workshop manual is showing, anyway.

At this point I'm assuming the ring is missing for whatever reason, so I'm trying to figure out where exactly it would have been so I can bolt the leveler's bracket to it. I don't see anything obvious, mostly because the distributor is making it hard to find a location similar to those where the other rings are.

Any thoughts? I'm guessing I shouldn't do anything stupid like attaching the leveler's bracket it to the valve cover. The distributor locking nut seems to be where the ring would go, but that doesn't seem right.

Thanks!

-- Joe

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[DMC5180]

yours appears to be missing. It's a flat plate that bolt's to the end face of the LH head. It's held on with 2 bolts just forward of the distributor about the position of the Trans filler tube. Check the end of the head for threaded holes that you could attach the long side of the lifting chain L-bracket.

[jangell]

Thanks -- I'll have to take a look next weekend and see if I can find the bolt holes in the cylinder head (I went home for the day; it was getting dark at the garage). Of course I'm missing the one that is completely different from all the others. :)

-- Joe

[DMCMW Dave]

Why don't you just go the opposite way? I.E. use the passenger side rear/driver side front?

[jangell]

Do you mean only use two of the rings, instead of all four? I assumed I was supposed to use all four for safety or stability or whatnot. Or do I misunderstand?

-- Joe

[DMCMW Dave]

Do you mean only use two of the rings, instead of all four? I assumed I was supposed to use all four for safety or stability or whatnot. Or do I misunderstand?

-- Joe

We use two all the time, although it does cause a funny angle if you try and center it too close to the rear of the car, it is not much of a hindrance especially on the way out.

[jangell]

Cool, good to know. This is the first time I've tried to remove any engine from any car, so I'm learning as I go. I think I'll try to find those holes on the back of the cylinder head, then probably just give up and use only two as you suggest. :) Thanks!

-- Joe

[Rich]

yours appears to be missing. It's a flat plate that bolt's to the end face of the LH head. It's held on with 2 bolts just forward of the distributor about the position of the Trans filler tube. Check the end of the head for threaded holes that you could attach the long side of the lifting chain L-bracket.
From this photo you can see where it's supposed to be. In the photo the lifting eye is in the very center. Diagnostic port/plug is seen to its left and below.

24223

Your diagnostic port bracket is not showing up, either. It's possible that you or a PO took that bracket/port off, perhaps also the lifting eye, and left them off?

Aside from lifting using only the remaining lifting eyes (per Dave), your options include fabricating a substitute eye from steel barstock or getting a lifting eye from a vendor.

Recommending you do like Dave says and pull it with just two of the eyes now. Before you put it back in the car and need better control of the angle you'll have time to locate, buy or fabricate that 4th eye and mount it.

[jangell]

Thanks for the picture -- that's much clearer than the workshop manual.

I don't recall noticing the diagnostic port, but I remember seeing it in the past. I'm sure it's there somewhere, but as you said I don't think it's properly mounted anywhere.

I'll try what Dave suggested and just lift it with the two rings this coming weekend. Thanks!

-- Joe

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks for the picture -- that's much clearer than the workshop manual.

I don't recall noticing the diagnostic port, but I remember seeing it in the past. I'm sure it's there somewhere, but as you said I don't think it's properly mounted anywhere.

I'll try what Dave suggested and just lift it with the two rings this coming weekend. Thanks!

-- Joe

Replacements are available for about $4 each NOS and I'm sure there are used ones around if that's too much.

[jawn101]

We use two all the time, although it does cause a funny angle if you try and center it too close to the rear of the car, it is not much of a hindrance especially on the way out.

Not that I can add any clout to Dave's statement but we have pulled my lump 2 (maybe three? Can't remember now!) times using only 2 hooks as well. Be careful and it's totally fine. :)

[David T]

Not that I can add any clout to Dave's statement but we have pulled my lump 2 (maybe three? Can't remember now!) times using only 2 hooks as well. Be careful and it's totally fine. :)

In place of using lifting rings (not every car has them and I am not talking just Deloreans) mechanics typically just remove the largest bolt they can find near the top of the motor (cylinder head bolts are good) and use an extra long bolt with several heavy duty washers (so you can't pull the head of the bolt through a link). Even with a leveler you still want the load as balanced as possible or you place too much load on one side. The leveler is meant to help you line things up easier when reassembling. When lifting I like chains and I leave some extra and secure the end with another bolt to the motor just in case. NEVER place any part of your body under the load at any time. You should use at least 2 separate chains. If you only use one and wrap it around the lifting hook, if either end should come loose the load will fall. Lift slowly and if it feels like you forgot to disconnect something STOP and find it, do NOT figure it is just stuck and you can force it out. Ground straps, throttle cables, wires, and hoses are often overlooked, sometimes even bolts in mounts.

[jangell]

Thanks, David. I'm currently using the same bolts that were used to hold the rings in place to secure by brackets, along with a thick and wide washer to compensate for the width of the hole in the bracket vs. the size of the washer (the hole in the washer is smaller than the head of the bolt; I just used the existing washer as well as the new one). I should probably find some longer bolts, though, just in case.

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I had assumed a leveler was useful when removing the engine as well as when putting it back in; during removal, you need to tilt the engine such that the transmission is down so that you can pull it out from under the body, right?

While I'm PRETTY sure I disconnected everything, I won't be surprised if there's something I missed. I'll be sure to go slowly, and to never put anything I want to keep (including myself) under the engine/trans or hoist itself while it's being hoisted.

Thanks!

-- Joe

[DMC5180]

An engine Lever is Very useful, especially if you are doing this alone. It gives you the control and stability to go slow and be cautious. It is ,however, always better and recommended to have a second set of eyes/hands to help observe and guide when doing this.