Screwed-in headliner

[Fox2506]

My car has a screwed-in headliner--just the main T piece. Has anyone heard of this?

I took it out today to figure out why it was soaked. I found 4 identical pinholes in symmetrical positions about the center of the car (so they look factory). One in front of each door, and one to the side of each door, all leading into the door jamb/gutter (hence the leak). These holes were not occupied by any of the headliner screws, and must have been recently cleared of sealant.

I'm guessing the center headliner has no fasteners other than the rear bracket and visor mounts, right? If so, that means all the screw holes were self-tapped by the screws or pre-drilled. Now that the screws are out, I have lots of holes to fill.

I plan to take the T panel off and freshen up the whole roof. Is there a guide that covers everything in this process? Is there a recommended sealant? I already got some black silicone adhesive, which I think is a bit glossy like the factory stuff. I also got some Stainless M10 x 1/2" sheetmetal screws to replace the rusted factory ones facing down in the gutter.

[DeLorean03]

The only screws my T-piece headliner had were for the sunvisors. For an adhesive, you will want this:

24228

That stuff is getting expen$ive. If I recall just last year, it was $13. Anyways, you'll spray that in a zigzag pattern on the back of the headliner. First, make sure you get the right amount of fabric ready for install. Then spray some 3M 90 on both the headliner board and the fabric. Wait until the 3M 90 becomes "pasty and stringy". Once it is, begin to press the fabric down. I started in the middle, that allowed me to get any "air bubbles" out as I went. Spray more 3M 90 down, wait again, then press the fabric down some more - wash, rinse, repeat until you get to the edges. The edges of the "T" are a bit more tricky - I'll let someone else explain that.

[David T]

The only screws my T-piece headliner had were for the sunvisors. For an adhesive, you will want this:

24228

That stuff is getting expen$ive. If I recall just last year, it was $13. Anyways, you'll spray that in a zigzag pattern on the back of the headliner. First, make sure you get the right amount of fabric ready for install. Then spray some 3M 90 on both the headliner board and the fabric. Wait until the 3M 90 becomes "pasty and stringy". Once it is, begin to press the fabric down. I started in the middle, that allowed me to get any "air bubbles" out as I went. Spray more 3M 90 down, wait again, then press the fabric down some more - wash, rinse, repeat until you get to the edges. The edges of the "T" are a bit more tricky - I'll let someone else explain that.

PO's do all kinds of things. On one car I saw the headliner on the doors held up with thumbtacks in nice, orderly rows. The door sills with small screws. The hard part is getting the old foam off the backer board. The venders sell new backer and/or new backer with the fabric already on. If you want to do it yourself it takes a lot of work to get the backers clean. Get some foam backed fabric and some 3M spray adhesive. Some small sandbags are helpful when you do the headliners over the doors. Maybe the holes were so when the water leaked in it was able to get out?

[DMC5180]

I'm guessing the center headliner has no fasteners other than the rear bracket and visor mounts, right?

Correct


If so, that means all the screw holes were self-tapped by the screws or pre-drilled. Now that the screws are out, I have lots of holes to fill.

YUP


I plan to take the T panel off and freshen up the whole roof. Is there a guide that covers everything in this process? Is there a recommended sealant? I already got some black silicone adhesive, which I think is a bit glossy like the factory stuff. I also got some Stainless M10 x 1/2" sheetmetal screws to replace the rusted factory ones facing down in the gutter.

Not really, Just use your best judgement. Black silicone is fine. Sounds like you have things well in hand. Tip: when you Reinstall the headliner be sure wrap the material over the door seal then trim it off about 1/4 inch below the lip on the back side. Use the adhesive to help with hold the material. This will allow the Inner door seal to easily slide down over the material to help hold it in place, but not so long that it lays in the trough and wicks up water.

[Fox2506]

Ok thanks. I planned to just buy the headliner kit (or just the parts I need). I've done recovers before and was never satisfied. Unless someone knows of a good material for a DIY.

In the last part of my post, I was talking about removing the SS T panel to clean up rust and reseal with silicone while I'm doing the other stuff--sorry wasn't clear. The T panel is part of a small list of things I have yet to take off the car, so I'm a little clueless.

[DMC5180]

If your T-Panel Has never been off the car, You will find it to be semi-bonded to the structural roof box with silicone. You will need to remove the aft Finisher strip above the rear glass and the 6 screws 3 each side inside the door opening. The common method for separating the silicone bond is to Lift the aft center of the t-panel, while sliding a long thin piece of metal or wood forward up the center in a you will hear the silicone Peel away from the T-panel foam stiffener.

[David T]

Be very gentle with the plastic valence that holds the back of the T panel. They are hard to get (read expensive) and can break easily. Be VERY careful with the sharp edges of the T panel, they will slice you up and you won't even feel it but you WILL see the blood everywhere! Do NOT scratch the torsion bars. Once the T panel is removed you have to remove the small metal plate that is taped down and look inside for rust. Replace the foam pad that holds the T panel up in the front. When reinstalling the T panel make sure the gap at the top of the doors is even side-to-side when the doors are closed. You can move the panel sideways (left to right) to adjust. The outer door seals at the top of the doors may need to be replaced if they are torn.

[Fox2506]

Thanks. Got the panel off safely, and resealed everything. Put some HVAC aluminum tape down instead of duct tape.

Got the holes sealed up. You can see the little dobs of silicone (about 3) running along the gutter where my leaks were. Used rounded SS screws (M10 1/2") with finisher washers cupping in fresh silicone underneath. Also POR-15'd the steel plate running along under the torsion bar. Satisfied.

24236