Transporting w/car trailer

[Rich_NYS]

I'm hoping to close a deal on my first DeLorean soon and plan to transport it on a car trailer. I don't yet have height & ramp length specifics for the trailer I'll be using, but I'd like to start getting prepared for any loading/unloading issues I might be unfamiliar with.

Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Does a DeLorean usually load easily on a car trailer, or should I plan to extend the ramps?

[Jonathan]

Have a look through this Rich:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3619-Transporters-Hand-Book

I have never towed my car, thankfully, but one thing to keep in mind is to not tow it facing backwards as the wind can rip your louvres clear off if it grabs it just so.

[Rich_NYS]

Have a look through this Rich:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3619-Transporters-Hand-Book

I have never towed my car, thankfully, but one thing to keep in mind is to not tow it facing backwards as the wind can rip your louvres clear off if it grabs it just so.


Thanks Jonathan....ripping off louvres would ruin the maiden voyage for sure!

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm hoping to close a deal on my first DeLorean soon and plan to transport it on a car trailer. I don't yet have height & ramp length specifics for the trailer I'll be using, but I'd like to start getting prepared for any loading/unloading issues I might be unfamiliar with.

Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Does a DeLorean usually load easily on a car trailer, or should I plan to extend the ramps?

Avoid equipment trailers with a high deck (above the wheels). The ramps will be too steep and you'll damage the spoiler. Low deck trailers don't usually have this issue. U-Haul trailers seem to be OK but are right on the edge of too steep so be careful.

Another hint - I think the most common body damage we see on cars is dents in the rear quarter next to the tire. From hitting the trailer fender!

If it has tire tie-downs that's great, if the frame is at all rusty don't trust the frame hooks. Don't hook to lower control arms. Don't use chains (use straps). Make sure the car is facing forward (As mentioned) and is moved forward so that you have enough weight on the tow hitch. It's really scary if you pull a trailer with negative or light hitch weight.

[Rich_NYS]

I see in that booklet it mentions the car should be put in neutral and the parking brake on or damage could result. That's something I hadn't thought of, but I'm sure my Dad would've covered that one, he good at not overlooking anything. I'll be sure to have wheel blocks & tie-down straps.

No mention in the booklet of potential clearance issues clearance, so maybe it's a non-issue.

[DMCMW Dave]

No mention in the booklet of potential clearance issues clearance, so maybe it's a non-issue.

The transporter booklet is aimed at the large car-haulers. Not usually a clearance issue on those.

Most small trailers don't have a problem, it's the guys who show up with trailers intended for farm equipment that have an issue.

[Rich_NYS]

Avoid equipment trailers with a high deck (above the wheels). The ramps will be too steep and you'll damage the spoiler. Low deck trailers don't usually have this issue. U-Haul trailers seem to be OK but are right on the edge of too steep so be careful.

Another hint - I think the most common body damage we see on cars is dents in the rear quarter next to the tire. From hitting the trailer fender!

If it has tire tie-downs that's great, if the frame is at all rusty don't trust the frame hooks. Don't hook to lower control arms. Don't use chains (use straps). Make sure the car is facing forward (As mentioned) and is moved forward so that you have enough weight on the tow hitch. It's really scary if you pull a trailer with negative or light hitch weight.

Good info Dave, thanks. I believe the trailer I'm borrowing is similar to the U-Haul two-axle trailers. I'm waiting for a callback to get the deck height & ramp length.

[DMC5180]

Does the car have Stock Height front springs? If it's been lowered it just makes things more difficult.

[Rich W]

Good info Dave, thanks. I believe the trailer I'm borrowing is similar to the U-Haul two-axle trailers. I'm waiting for a callback to get the deck height & ramp length.

Hi Rich,

To add a few other details to Dave Swingle's comments, one of the easiest ways to check the load position and weight bias on the trailer
is to measure the trailer from the deck to the ground, at the front and the rear of the trailer, when the trailer is empty, then measure it
again once you initially position the car on the trailer. The deck should be slightly lower (equally) when loaded, droping an inch or two.

If the trailer loaded deck measurement is higher in front than the rear measurement, then the tongue weight is to light (move car forward)
otherwise, if front deck measurement is lower in front than the rear measurement, then the tongue weight is to heavy (move car back).
If the trailer has surge brakes (like a U-Haul), it should require a 2" ball and a "flat four" light plug connection.

If the trailer has electric brakes, it may have one of a variety of light plugs, but most likely a RV type (round, 7-connector). The tow vehicle
should have an electronic brake controller (adjusted differently for trailer loaded or unloaded), depending upon the trailer weight. If you are
using a larger, enclosed trailer, you may also want to look into using a anti-sway bar or load leveling bars, to keep the trailer in control.

Later,
Rich W.

[SS Spoiler]

Something else to think of, will the door clear the trailer fender? U-haul trailers usually have fenders that fold away.

[DMCMW Dave]

Something else to think of, will the door clear the trailer fender? U-haul trailers usually have fenders that fold away.

That's not usually a problem if you have the car centered on the trailer.

[Rich_NYS]

I just spoke to my friend; the trailer deck is 20" high, the ramp is 6.5' wide x 4' long. That sounds like it'll be a bit steep...any thoughts on that?

BTW, thanks for all the feedback...

[DMC5180]

I just spoke to my friend; the trailer deck is 20" high, the ramp is 6.5' wide x 4' long. That sounds like it'll be a bit steep...any thoughts on that?

BTW, thanks for all the feedback...

You can also strategically park the trailer axles in a DIP/Ditch or area that makes the loading angle shallower. Including Blocking the trailer wheels and raising the tongue Jack all the way up to lower the the back end of the trailer.

[Rich_NYS]

You can also strategically park the trailer axles in a DIP/Ditch or area that makes the loading angle shallower. Including Blocking the trailer wheels and raising the tongue Jack all the way up to lower the the back end of the trailer.

Ahhh....I like that! -Good tip, thanks.

[Rich]

...the trailer deck is 20" high, the ramp is 6.5' wide x 4' long. That sounds like it'll be a bit steep...any thoughts on that?

Yes, that's going to be a problem unless you can, as suggested, tilt the deck for loading/unloading and/or drive the car on and off from a higher elevation. I'm assuming that "4' long" is the dimension parallel to the loading/driving direction. The 6.5' ramp width is more than enough.

From p.40 of the Owners Handbook the ramp angles for a stock-height D are 22deg (front) and 27deg (rear).

The 20in. rise to the top of a 4ft/48in ramp length works out to a ramp angle of ~25deg, exceeding the front limit. To stay below a 22deg front ramp angle you need the rear of the deck to be less than 18in higher than the rear of the ramps are.

You also don't want to high-center the car over the rear of the deck halfway up/down during loading/unloading.

Another idea: Longer/additional ramps to decrease the ramp angle for any given deck height. Make sure they can take the load...

With the planning you're doing things will be fine.

Let us know when you take possession and we'll roll out a bigger welcome.

[Jonathan]

Another idea: Longer/additional ramps to decrease the ramp angle for any given deck height. Make sure they can take the load...

2x6's even. If that would give you enough extra room. Get two of them say two feet long or something, and then place them so the trailer ramp comes down on the end of them. Drive up on the opposite end and you'll be a couple inches closer to your allowed loading angle. Similar advice if you can't get a jack under your (lowered) car. Drive up on some wood and then slide the jack underneath.

If it hasn't already been mentioned, make sure there is lots of air pressure in the tires. If the tires are low it will make your angle worse.

[Lou and "Boo"]

I just trailered a 1985 Pontiac Fiero on a uhaul "vehicle towing " trailer. Not a tow dolly. I brought it from New Jersey to Long Island. Once on the trailer, even though the car was centered, I couldn't get the drivers door open, even with the fender hinged down. I had to climb out of the window okie the Dukes of Hazard. Couldn't put the window up once out. Thankfully it didn't start raining until I got back to Long Island and got the car off the trailer and the window back up. I've never put a D on a trailer, but I can see it having the same issues, not being able to open the door once up on the trailer. And the D is wider than my fiero.
Just food for thought, it may be worth going to uhaul and doing some measurements first, you can't climb out f a delorean window, unless you are anorexic. Where in NYS are you? Near Long Island?

[DMCMW Dave]

Once on the trailer, even though the car was centered, I couldn't get the drivers door open, even with the fender hinged down. ?

DeLorean doors go up. They never hit those fenders unless you have it on the trailer off-center, in which case you go around to the other side.

[DMCMW Dave]

If it hasn't already been mentioned, make sure there is lots of air pressure in the tires. If the tires are low it will make your angle worse.

Conversely, if you have a portable air compressor and a lot of patience, you can flatten the trailer tires while loading the car. Total PITA, but a last resort if you can't borrow/rent a better trailer for the purpose.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Ok, as I said, I've never put a D on a trailer. Just relaying my experience with A different car.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks for all the suggestions....very helpful for sure. Hopefully I'll put them to use, I'll let you know how it goes.

-Rich

[David T]

Thanks for all the suggestions....very helpful for sure. Hopefully I'll put them to use, I'll let you know how it goes.

-Rich

I have towed many Deloreans. The best way is with an enclosed trailer and backed in so you have plenty of weight on the tongue. If using an open trailer you can back it on but you then have to either remove the sunshade or use a tarp so it can't catch the wind. If you can move it far enough forward you should be able to get enough tongue weight if you drive it on. Get two 2X4 about 4 feet long and place them on and ahead of the ramps to get enough clearance so you don't damage things. Tie to the tow hooks if they are not rusty otherwise either straps around the tires or chains to the frame. Don't touch the lower control arms. Once fastened, no parking brake and neutral. Best if you can cover it so you don't have gawkers. Lock it if you can so when you stop no one can open the car. When first starting out check your tie downs every 15 minutes or so till they no longer have to be tightened. Check tire pressure in the trailer tires and the lugnuts. Every time you stop inspect the hitch and check the trailer lights. Be careful when large trucks and trailers pass you because the trailer will sway. Leave extra stopping distance and take turns wide and slow. Plan so you do not have to back up if possible. Make sure the trailer has a spare tire. Cross the safety chains under the hitch. If the trailer starts to sway hold the wheel straight ahead and take your foot off the gas. Do not hit the brakes.
You do not have to do the speed limit, do what feels comfortable, especially if the weather is bad. Tolls will be expensive.

[Rich_NYS]

I have towed many Deloreans. The best way is with an enclosed trailer and backed in so you have plenty of weight on the tongue. If using an open trailer you can back it on but you then have to either remove the sunshade or use a tarp so it can't catch the wind. If you can move it far enough forward you should be able to get enough tongue weight if you drive it on. Get two 2X4 about 4 feet long and place them on and ahead of the ramps to get enough clearance so you don't damage things. Tie to the tow hooks if they are not rusty otherwise either straps around the tires or chains to the frame. Don't touch the lower control arms. Once fastened, no parking brake and neutral. Best if you can cover it so you don't have gawkers. Lock it if you can so when you stop no one can open the car. When first starting out check your tie downs every 15 minutes or so till they no longer have to be tightened. Check tire pressure in the trailer tires and the lugnuts. Every time you stop inspect the hitch and check the trailer lights. Be careful when large trucks and trailers pass you because the trailer will sway. Leave extra stopping distance and take turns wide and slow. Plan so you do not have to back up if possible. Make sure the trailer has a spare tire. Cross the safety chains under the hitch. If the trailer starts to sway hold the wheel straight ahead and take your foot off the gas. Do not hit the brakes.
You do not have to do the speed limit, do what feels comfortable, especially if the weather is bad. Tolls will be expensive.

Thanks Dave...good stuff.

[eagle-co94]

Here are a few images of the DeLoreans I have towed. I only had trouble loading 891, the last pic as the bodytub was essentially broken in two pieces and was partially dragging. 20" seems like a fair estimate for the deck height. All these cars were at the stock U.S. suspension height however. As was noted before, having some 2x6's handy would likely fix any issues with loading a lowered car.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/eagle-co94/DeLorean/20130625_103005_zps9c148c95.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/eagle-co94/media/DeLorean/20130625_103005_zps9c148c95.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/eagle-co94/DeLorean/100_2919_zps5d12654f.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/eagle-co94/media/DeLorean/100_2919_zps5d12654f.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/eagle-co94/DeLorean/CIMG4192_zps3e122618.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/eagle-co94/media/DeLorean/CIMG4192_zps3e122618.jpg.html)
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y154/eagle-co94/DeLorean/DSC0299301_zps00c1c843.jpg (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/eagle-co94/media/DeLorean/DSC0299301_zps00c1c843.jpg.html)

As you can see I used two different generations of Uhaul trailers, but the positioning is about the same on the trailer. I put the D in balls deep and it rides fine with more weight forward of the center of the trailer for safe towing. :lol: I never needed to fold the fenders either. Some fenders are welded in place and do not fold.

[Rich W]

James (eagle-co94) had a great idea posting photos of DeLoreans on trailers for towing. Attaching a few below:

24317

24318

These photos are taken just before DCS 2008 with my Grand National DeLorean on one of my single place trailers.
I purchased this trailer from a Porsche Club member (back in my Porsche phase, about two decades ago) who used
it to trailer his Race 911 before he upgraded to an enclosed trailer. The bump stop was already set for rear engine.

[Dangermouse]

Here's a couple I have picked up (photos, not cars)

No idea whose cars they are except the first one, which is from that recent GE commercial

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24323&d=1389388329

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24322&d=1389388328


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24319&d=1389388326

How Germany does it:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24320&d=1389388327

and using a dolly:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24321&d=1389388327

[Mark D]

No idea whose cars they are except the first one, which is from that recent GE commercial


The first one is not the car from the GE commercial... It looks like Paul Nigh's car maybe?

GE used TMR's 'flagship' replica car built by Temporal FX for their recent commercial.

[Dangermouse]

The first one is not the car from the GE commercial... It looks like Paul Nigh's car maybe?

GE used TMR's 'flagship' replica car built by Temporal FX for their recent commercial.

?? It says "GE Brilliant Machines" on the door ???

maybe it's a replica of a replica :eek1:

[Rich_NYS]

Looks like a tentative for Sunday. I have the trailer arranged (borrowing from a friend.) I'll bring some 2x6's, a floor jack and a positive attitude!

I'll also take some pics

[eagle-co94]

Yes, pics or it didn't happen!

[refugeefromcalif]

Looks like a tentative for Sunday. I have the trailer arranged (borrowing from a friend.) I'll bring some 2x6's, a floor jack and a positive attitude!

I'll also take some pics

Good Luck!

Yes, we want Lots of pics.

George

[Jonathan]

Good Luck!

Yes, we want Lots of pics.

George

+1 Rich, have fun tomorrow.

Soak in the experience, pics or otherwise. You'll end up remembering the day pretty clearly for years to come, regardless of whether you have it all photographed or not :)

[Rich_NYS]

Hey everybody,

I read in a post, and in the transport guide, that I need to put the car in neutral & set the brake.

The transporters' guide mentions: "leaving the transmission in gear could result in serious damage."

What damage could result?


Thanks!

[Rich W]

Hey everybody,

I read in a post, and in the transport guide, that I need to put the car in neutral & set the brake.

The transporters' guide mentions: "leaving the transmission in gear could result in serious damage."

What damage could result?


Thanks!

Since this is your first DeLorean transport, I would recommend
leaving the car in gear, especially if it is a relatively short tow
less than a few hundred miles and if the functional status of the
parking brake is unknown.

As for the transport itself, I recommend using heavy duty straps
and hooks, and re-check the tension on the straps after the first
few miles or after the first 15 min., then again at gas stops, etc.

Good Luck with the transport.

[Rich_NYS]

Since this is your first DeLorean transport, I would recommend
leaving the car in gear, especially if it is a relatively short tow
less than a few hundred miles and if the functional status of the
parking brake is unknown.

As for the transport itself, I recommend using heavy duty straps
and hooks, and re-check the tension on the straps after the first
few miles or after the first 15 min., then again at gas stops, etc.

Good Luck with the transport.

Thanks Rich,

The parking brake does work, but I won't be depending on it. I'll have straps and possibly wheel blocks.

Still wondering why there's a recommendation of leaving the car in neutral.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Thanks Rich,

The parking brake does work, but I won't be depending on it. I'll have straps and possibly wheel blocks.

Still wondering why there's a recommendation of leaving the car in neutral.

I always thought they recommended leaving it in neutral so the transport guys could roll it up and down the trailer without the key or owner if need be.

[refugeefromcalif]

Still wondering why there's a recommendation of leaving the car in neutral.

I must have missed it but, is this a manual or auto? I'm guessing manual.
Does it make a difference if it's an Auto?

George

[Rich_NYS]

I must have missed it but, is this a manual or auto? I'm guessing manual.
Does it make a difference if it's an Auto?

George

It's an Auto.

The transporters guide reads: "Leaving the transmission in gear may cause serious damage," but it doesn't mention if that is specific to either type of transmission.

[eagle-co94]

I've always towed every cat on a flatbed in gear, with the parking brake set and strapped down to the point I compress the suspension. I don't want any secondary movements of cargo like in a non baffled water tank.

I don't see how you could cause damage if the car is secured.

[Rich_NYS]

Near my destination now, taking a break for lunch & gas after a quick "drive-by" and survey of the area. Right across the street there's a parking lot with a steep drop-off to a side-street....score! We should be able to have the ramp nearly level, which will be good 'cause I found out this AM the trailer has a short side rail on it....might not be able to open the door. This should get interesting, I'll definitely post pics of whatever workaround we come up with.

BTW, the owner has the car out near the road, I saw it on the drive-by......I somehow think it looks even more badass than the first time I saw it. -lol.

[Dangermouse]

My guess on the in gear/ out of gear issue: as the guide is aimed towards commercial car transporters in the 80s, perhaps there was an issue with vibration from a long journey causing spall marks on the gear teeth if it was left in gear?

[David T]

Leaving the car in gear and/or putting the parking brake on will not keep the car on the trailer. First of all you can not trust the parking brake especially on a car you are not familiar with. The tie downs have to be strong enough to keep the car secure without counting on the brakes or leaving it in gear. IMHO the main reason it is advised to always leave it it neutral (we are talking about the manual now) is to prevent any accidents from starting it in gear. You can imagine the result if it started in gear and drove off the trailer into the tow car! The other good reason you want it in neutral is if it is left in a gear the car will be bouncing back and forth on the same teeth and can eventually cause wear and damage on a long trip. BTW another important tip is to cross the rear tie downs so the car can't move sideways. The rear tie downs are the most important because they are the ones keeping the car from moving forward during braking. As you can see from the pictures the car is very far forward so as to get as much weight on the tongue as possible because of the rear engine. You need to always have weight on that tongue during towing. Don't forget bumps, and hills, they affect the tongue weight too. As the trailer goes over them they momentarily cause weight to transfer and the result can be "unsettling". It will feel as if the back of the car is floating. Becomes more interesting if it happens when you have to use the brakes or are turning! If you feel uncomfortable pick a lower speed till you can figure out what is wrong.

[Rich_NYS]

So here's the funny part: we realized how close the car was to the side rails, and when we first checked it appeared there wouldn't be clearance to open the door. So, we put the car in neutral and used a hand-winch to pull it onto the trailer (with the window down, dragging the E-brake.) We had part of the ramp break, close calls with the side rails....etc. So, in the midst of the issues we were working on, we forgot to re-check the door clearance during the loading.

We loaded the car "by hand," tied it down all the way around.....then during the final check we realized the door had just enough clearance. I could've driven the car on and gotten out just fine. :histerical1::rofl:


Pics are in reverse order, not sure why. http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=219

[eagle-co94]

Don't take offense, but that was the wrong trailer for transporting a car. The floors aren't designed to carry weight like that. That's a landscaping type trailer which is why the gate broke. I'd be scared the car might shift sideways and rub one of those rails. The car looks great though and I'm glad to hear you made it safely!

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Congrats on the car. You have some interesting stripes, never seen the lower stripe like that, looks like a custom job.

[David T]

Don't take offense, but that was the wrong trailer for transporting a car. The floors aren't designed to carry weight like that. That's a landscaping type trailer which is why the gate broke. I'd be scared the car might shift sideways and rub one of those rails. The car looks great though and I'm glad to hear you made it safely!

Although the trailer is not ideal it should be OK. The biggest problem is how to properly tie the car down. You do not want to count on the floor, ideally the tie-downs should be from the frame of the trailer to the frame of the car. The other problem with the trailer is capacity. Many of that type are not meant for the weight of a car. You should be able to figure that out from the label on the trailer. If the tailgate was not strong enough that is a hint the trailer may be overloaded.

[Rich_NYS]

Don't take offense, but that was the wrong trailer for transporting a car.

None taken at all, good feedback and I totally agree. It was borrowed from a friend who transports a lot of stuff and I saw it for the first time yesterday AM. I believe the weight rating is OK, but made sure we strapped it all the way around and blocked the wheels. We criss-crossed the rear tie-downs and I [neurotically] stopped often to check the tie-downs.

Everything worked out OK, but next trip I'll definitely use a different trailer. (Insert "wiping sweat off brow" here!)

Get back to me about that window.....ready when you are. :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Congrats on the car. You have some interesting stripes, never seen the lower stripe like that, looks like a custom job.

Thanks, I'm psyched! The stripes look like a "one size fits all" vinyl tape kinda thing. I'll be removing them asap (Don't shoot! :gun: )

[Rich_NYS]

Although the trailer is not ideal it should be OK. The biggest problem is how to properly tie the car down. You do not want to count on the floor, ideally the tie-downs should be from the frame of the trailer to the frame of the car. The other problem with the trailer is capacity. Many of that type are not meant for the weight of a car. You should be able to figure that out from the label on the trailer. If the tailgate was not strong enough that is a hint the trailer may be overloaded.

I tied it as you mentioned, and followed suggestions earlier in this thread also. It handled OK, and also has brakes but as I mentioned.....will opt out of this one next time for sure.

[eagle-co94]

My main concern was the design of those trailers. The floors are normally just angle iron and not I-beams and they're spaced about every 2-3' with simple metal mesh laid down. Adding a wood floor helps, but the floors are designed for evenly distributed loads, not concentrated in 4 small contact patches. Ride on mowers, ATV's and motorcycles are more typical in a trailer like that.

[Rich_NYS]

My main concern was the design of those trailers. The floors are normally just angle iron and not I-beams and they're spaced about every 2-3' with simple metal mesh laid down. Adding a wood floor helps, but the floors are designed for evenly distributed loads, not concentrated in 4 small contact patches. Ride on mowers, ATV's and motorcycles are more typical in a trailer like that.

Valid concern for sure....I'm with you on that.

I'll take a look underneath for curiosity's sake....I think it's box-channel but not sure.

[eagle-co94]

It may be a boxed frame if it's got its own brakes.

[lazabby]

Can anyone recommend the car trailer from Uhaul to use? Is this what everyone has used?
https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/

[DMCMW Dave]

Can anyone recommend the car trailer from Uhaul to use? Is this what everyone has used?
https://www.uhaul.com/Trailers/Auto-Transport-Rental/AT/

Yeah. We see those all the time. Heavy steel, don't pull with something light. They balance ok with the car facing forward since the car is so short. U- haul will want you using a pickup or suburban.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dn010]

When I moved from upstate New York to Florida, I successfully used their tow dolly that only holds the front tires.

It may not be the ideal way to trailer the car, and I also had to reinstall the original springs because being lowered I could not get the car onto the dolly. There were a variety of reasons I couldn't use the full car trailer, all I can say is it is doable with a dolly. This was 7 years ago.

[DMCVegas]

Yeah. We see those all the time. Heavy steel, don't pull with something light. They balance ok with the car facing forward since the car is so short. U- haul will want you using a pickup or suburban.

I can second this. I've driven across the Continental Divide in high winds pulling my DeLorean on one of these, and never had an issue with trailer sway. They're pretty easy to load with the folding fender, and have a enough low deck that they make loading disabled cars simple. I use a retrieval strap between both front tow hooks to pull evenly, and then use a ratcheting hand winch to pull the car up halfway onto the trailer. From there you can connect the winch to your hitch assembly to easily pull the car the rest of the way up to secure it.

BTW, are you leaving Houston?



When I moved from upstate New York to Florida, I successfully used their tow dolly that only holds the front tires.

Unless you are pulling either a FWD car (or a 4x4 with a transfer case that completely disconnects the transmission), I would staunchly advise against using a tow dolly.

There is too much risk involved with burning out synchros or locking up the gearbox if something pulls/pushes on the shifter. And you can't even do it with an automatic since you'd burn up the insides since no fluid is pumping.

Yes, there are kits that will enable you to do this with an auto, but I highly doubt that unless you regularly pull your DeLorean with an RV, you're going to mod it to install a lube pump and additional fluid cooler. Especially when it's cheaper to get the full trailer if you're just moving.

Not trying to browbeat or anything, just giving some advise to stay safe. If you were going across town or something, you could get away with a dolly. But not cross country.

[dn010]

You can also always remove the drive shafts...


Unless you are pulling either a FWD car (or a 4x4 with a transfer case that completely disconnects the transmission), I would staunchly advise against using a tow dolly.

There is too much risk involved with burning out synchros or locking up the gearbox if something pulls/pushes on the shifter. And you can't even do it with an automatic since you'd burn up the insides since no fluid is pumping.

Yes, there are kits that will enable you to do this with an auto, but I highly doubt that unless you regularly pull your DeLorean with an RV, you're going to mod it to install a lube pump and additional fluid cooler. Especially when it's cheaper to get the full trailer if you're just moving.

[DMCVegas]

You can also always remove the drive shafts...

You are absolutely correct on that. Yes, removing the driveshafts would also work to enable you to use a tow dolly.

For any RWD car or truck that you tow, this is an option as long as you either have an Independent Rear Suspension like we do, or you have a Fixed Yoke Driveshaft. If you have a slip yoke on a solid axle, you'll spill out all your gear oil from the transmission when you pull the driveshaft and will need to refill it. If you're in a tight spot and can't get a trailer for a RWD vehicle, removal of the driveshafts is an option. Otherwise you've just got to consider the time spent removing and reinstalling the drive shaft(s), and consider if that is worth your time.

Keep in mind too that when towing a car with a dolly instead of a trailer, the front wheels of the vehicle being towed still turn, so you can't back up. And if you've disabled the vehicle by removing the drive shaft(s), you can't quickly unload and reload it to pull your truck out of a tight spot. So always keep it in a straight line, and only park in places where you can drive forward to leave.

[dn010]

Another good point. Key needs to be in the ignition to disable the lock.


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[David T]

If you do use a tow dolly,the car, since it is on the ground, is supposed to have plates and insurance. If you use a trailer you don't need the plates on the car but you should still have insurance. With a dolly you can use a smaller tow vehicle too. Make sure you have good tires on the car if you use a tow dolly and it is best to remove the drive shafts. Many States now require recovery lights if you use a dolly. They are held on with magnets so you must figure out how to secure them on a Delorean. If you tow backwards, either on a dolly OR an open trailer, you must either remove the rear louvers or cover them with a tarp to keep it from flying off. if you are towing a car with a rotten frame you must find a way to secure it firmly. You cannot use the usual loops. Never pull on the lower control arms to move or secure the car, they will bend. Stop often and check your trailer and the load, the tires, and the lights. Take your time trailering a car. I like to cover it if I am not using a closed trailer so it is not so obvious what the car is. Also keeps parts from falling off and keeps the car cleaner. Just make sure any cover is on tightly so it doesn't flap and beat up the S/S. NEVER try to back up with a tow dolly.

[Shuttleman]

Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?

[eagle-co94]

Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?

Pretty sure that won't work unless the enclosed trailer has a side door that you can open the door through.

[dodint]

Maybe.

7 feet is 84 inches. The car is 73.1 inches wide. The door swings out 11 inches. So a total width of 84.1 inches, and that's if you park exactly on the passenger side wall and do not have to worry about wheel wells inside the trailer. Seems like it's too close of a call to be practical.

It does beg a different question though, which hinges on your level of comfort in another way. You could simply drive into the enclosed trailer with the door open and leave it open while towing. The car would be inside the whole time so environmental concerns shouldn't be in play. But you'd have to consider the stress on the torsion bar, roof box, door, unplugging the battery so as not to drain it, etc. as you are driving over bumps on the road and the door is moving with that momentum. Is that much different than driving in a parade with the doors open? I've read that it is structurally safe to drive with the doors open at highway speed. But are you willing to be the guinea pig here?

[Mark D]

Is it possible to use a 7’ wide enclosed trailler? Will I be able to open the door enough to get out of the car?

Does the enclosed trailer have a winch inside at the front to pull the car up the ramps? If so then you could load it without being inside the car. I'm not sure if you would be able to reach in through the window to pull the parking brake, but it may not be necessary if you strap it down really well and chock the tires.

[Shuttleman]

I have to do long distances that is why I want to keep it slim and also the fact that wider then 7’ I need mirror extension etc. I have a winch but I wanted to see if someone here had an enclosed trailer and could give me insight before I buy mine.

[Rich_NYS]

Wow, ever look back on your earliest posts? That's what I'm doing now, and circling back to comment on one of my original posts about transporting.


So.....I'm planning to transport a non-runner on a flatbed. One of the front tow loops is missing. I'll want it facing-in when I offload it into my garage.

Looking for opinions on whether or not I should transport it backwards on the flatbed with the louvre secured (and how to secure,) also how to approach the situation of loading it with only one front tow loop intact. If I load it backwards, I'll have both rear tow loops to use for loading, and it'll be facing into my garage for easier offload (my driveway is steep.)

I also don't want to remove the louvre.

Thanks!

[Soundkillr]

Wow, ever look back on your earliest posts? That's what I'm doing now, and circling back to comment on one of my original posts about transporting.


So.....I'm planning to transport a non-runner on a flatbed. One of the front tow loops is missing. I'll want it facing-in when I offload it into my garage.

Looking for opinions on whether or not I should transport it backwards on the flatbed with the louvre secured (and how to secure,) also how to approach the situation of loading it with only one front tow loop intact. If I load it backwards, I'll have both rear tow loops to use for loading, and it'll be facing into my garage for easier offload (my driveway is steep.)

I also don't want to remove the louvre.

Thanks!

I would remove the engine cover screens and rope from the louvers through the screen holes and down to the flatbed through the engine compartment. Id also be tempted to wrap it with packing wrap that you can buy on a role at home depot. Wrapping around the entire louver edge and rear bumper.

[Ron]

I would remove the engine cover screens and rope from the louvers through the screen holes and down to the flatbed through the engine compartment. Id also be tempted to wrap it with packing wrap that you can buy on a role at home depot. Wrapping around the entire louver edge and rear bumper.If I'm reading correctly, I think it would be better to go around the bumper and right back through the louvers instead of going to the flatbed so that the rope (2 nylon straps) wouldn't slack or tighten too much when the suspension moves/bounces.

[Rich_NYS]

That helps...thanks!

I like the wrap idea, I might use that t secure card board over it. I think if the louvres were covered, the risk would be much less.
Cosmetically, it's a nice non-runner. I want to be careful not to damage anything when I tie/strap things.

Next, I need to figure out how to tie down the front...the passenger side tow loop is missing.

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[David T]

If you have to tow "backwards" and don't want to remove the rear louver, you should get cardboard or foam to cover the louver and then cover that with a tarp. As for tie-downs, if the loops are no good and the frame is rotten, go over the frame as best as you can. I once towed a car with the frame so rusty it was difficult to secure it anywhere. I did the best I could. The rear tie downs are the most important so when you stop, the car won't move forward. Ideally you should try to use an enclosed trailer if you can. That way it is safe from view, weather isn't a problem and wind isn't a factor. As for towing backwards to make it easier to unload, I would tow it forwards and then turn the car around once it is on the ground. If you use an enclosed trailer it is difficult to get in and out of the car unless there is a side door that you can open and then open the car door. When I tow cars I never use the parking brake and I leave it in neutral when towing. I will use the parking brake or chocks till it is secured on the trailer or when I am unloading the car but during transport the brake is pretty much useless if it even works. On a car that I don't know I will not trust the parking brake to be effective. You must trust the tie-downs. You must recheck them several times when first towing to make sure they do not slacken and when they do, tighten them up. You should secure anything loose in the car and disconnect the battery. If it is a short trip a dolly is OK but go slow. I have tried backwards and forwards with a dolly, backwards is better, more weight on the dolly but you must do something about the louver. Enclosed is the best way to go but hard to get in and out of the car. Whichever way you do it, go slow and stop often to check everything so you can fix any problem before it causes any damage.

[Rich_NYS]

The frame is solid, just has one tow loop busted off.

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[Rich_NYS]

Finalizing plans for this week; I'll have tire straps available, so that should solve the issue of the missing front tow loop.

I'm going to secure and cover the louvre as suggested. The car will be pulled from a garage onto a flatbed using the rear tow loops, then reverse-operation into my garage.

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[David T]

It should roll unless the brakes are stuck. You won't need to winch it off the trailer, it should roll, but you may need to winch it into the garage. If the car has been sitting for a long time DON"T STEP ON THE BRAKES! That just jams the brakes on and the calipers will stick and the wheels won't turn easily. Use the parking brake. Leave the drive's window open and steer the car unless you have a helper that can turn the wheel and use the parking brake. If the car has been outside for a long time beware of critters that may have hitched a ride. You don't want them in your garage.

[Rich_NYS]

It should roll unless the brakes are stuck. You won't need to winch it off the trailer, it should roll, but you may need to winch it into the garage. If the car has been sitting for a long time DON"T STEP ON THE BRAKES! That just jams the brakes on and the calipers will stick and the wheels won't turn easily. Use the parking brake. Leave the drive's window open and steer the car unless you have a helper that can turn the wheel and use the parking brake. If the car has been outside for a long time beware of critters that may have hitched a ride. You don't want them in your garage.

Good tips....thanks.

It has been garaged for ~15 years. Oddly, I could find no rodent nests in any of the usual locations...just a few pellets and a slightly chewed tool bag in the jack storage area.

[David T]

If you see that expect to find more once you look deeper. Don't discount insects. On one car I bought, once it was in my warm garage, all of the spiders started dropping onto the floor looking for a new home. There have been stories of snakes slithering out of cars. Droppings can be an inhalation hazard so use a respirator or a face mask and dampen droppings before removal. Till the car is cleaned up treat it like a biological hazard. I like to try to wash the car down (the outsides and undercarriage) before rolling it into the garage. Till you get the battery and old gas out keep a fire extinguisher handy. Since it sat so long figure on draining all of the old fluids out. Before doing any work on the car make sure to get the car titled IN YOUR NAME! That way you KNOW it is YOUR car and not anyone else's and is not reported stolen. Since you are financing it you should insure it at least for theft and fire. You haven't looked inside the heater box yet. Pull the fan motor.

[Rich_NYS]

If you see that expect to find more once you look deeper. Don't discount insects. On one car I bought, once it was in my warm garage, all of the spiders started dropping onto the floor looking for a new home. There have been stories of snakes slithering out of cars. Droppings can be an inhalation hazard so use a respirator or a face mask and dampen droppings before removal. Till the car is cleaned up treat it like a biological hazard. I like to try to wash the car down (the outsides and undercarriage) before rolling it into the garage. Till you get the battery and old gas out keep a fire extinguisher handy. Since it sat so long figure on draining all of the old fluids out. Before doing any work on the car make sure to get the car titled IN YOUR NAME! That way you KNOW it is YOUR car and not anyone else's and is not reported stolen. Since you are financing it you should insure it at least for theft and fire. You haven't looked inside the heater box yet. Pull the fan motor.


lol..."biological hazard." I get what you're saying, just sounds funny...haha.

Dude, I hope a snake comes slithering out: I'll make a video, keep it as a pet, and release it in the Spring.

[David T]

It may sound extreme and creepy but it is true. There have been cases in the southwest US where people have contracted Hanta virus from mouse droppings. You can get parasites. Not only you but others living in the house or having contact with you. It is worth taking a few simple precautions. You don't want to have to fumigate your house because spiders or other insects got into the house. Just a heads up. Use rubber gloves and a paper face mask at least. Remove what you can and wipe down with bleach. At the first sign of insects "bomb" the car with insect spray. Be careful if there is mold too. Pull the fan motor and see what is in there. Check the underside of the seats. Pull the carpet.

[Rich_NYS]

My car was transported backwards safe & sound. I explained to the driver I wanted it transported backwards so it could be be deposited nose-first into my garage, and was prepared to cover & strap down the sunshade louvre. Without needing any DeLorean-specific information; he [very] kindly, but adamantly requested we remove the louvre. My arm is in a sling, and told him I wouldn't be able to remove it, so he took it off for me and we put it in the car. We used the cardboard [I brought] as a cushion between the louvre and the interior. He later thanked me for letting him talk me into removing it.....he said he once saw a disaster involving a sunroof on a car being towed backwards, the louvre had his attention right away, and he didn't want to be stressed out the entire ride.

He backed up to my garage entrance and I coasted off the ramp into my garage.