Odd noise - non engine

[Spittybug]

I've just noticed an odd high pitched buzz coming from behind my dashboard when I first turn the key and before crank. It isn't the fuel pump, I hear that separately and distinctly. I'ts like a very soft piezo tweeter type sound and it certainly seems to be coming from under the dash somewhere. I've never noticed it before. It goes away after a few seconds. It isn't my power antennae. It is before the engine starts and is NOT from the rear. Climate controls all turned to off. Lights and hazard off.

Ideas?

[Soundkillr]

Dumb question, but you sure it isn't a very sick seatbelt or door buzzer? If its on the way out, or has a poor connection, I imagine it would sound like what you have described.

[Spittybug]

Those are long gone, along with key buzzer. It's a much quieter sound than that too.

[Jonathan]

Is the noise repeatable? Consistent? Intermittent? Could you record it and post the audio/video?

[Spittybug]

Every time I start up. I'll try and get a recording.

[Spittybug]

Very low sound level, sorry. .Wav can't be uploaded, so I zipped it. First the click of the key, then the noise, then the key, then the fuel pump and then cranking and you hear the buzz again.

[Jonathan]

I also tend to think of it sounding like a weak door ajar buzzer or the seatbelt buzzer.

Not to imply you didn't actually remove those items long ago as you mentioned, but could you confirm exactly what it was that you removed or disconnected? A photo reference or parts diagram link, perhaps?

Are there any other after market items installed on your car that might have a reminder buzzer like this?

[jmettee]

Sounds exactly like my seat belt buzzer

[Spittybug]

I can't stand not knowing.... So I've pulled the center console out and am exploring. Where exactly is that buzzer located?

While I'm at it, I'm going to *try* and clean up the rat nest of wiring that goes under the center console to the dash. I can't believe the volume and gauge of the wires that go up front! I'm going to think long and hard about ribbon cable (low current) for all the dash items, a couple of heavy wires for the fuel pump & lights, (already ran a new one for horns) and replace the the damned harness. An extra bank of relays somewhere would work wonders. Wouldn't it be nice to unplug one simple connector when removing the center console? :approve: Reading the schematics isn't a problem, it's translating it all into real world locations of things.

Wish me luck, but I've hated the wiring in these cars since day 1. With the engine bay all nice and neat and with the need to find noises, rattles and whatnot, why not try?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Get rid of the two headlight ground wires that run back to the common ground. I installed a frame ground up front for the headlights.

[Rich]

Where exactly is that buzzer located?

Under the left dash, ahead of the binnacle. Specifically above the pedal box and the steering column and ahead of the oblong plastic A/C duct to the door.

At least that's where ours is.

Look in the parts list to see what you are trying to locate.

Item 6:
LINK: http://store.delorean.com/c-283-3-6-2-combination-switches.aspx (http://store.delorean.com/c-283-3-6-2-combination-switches.aspx)

It's camouflaged in black so it blends in with everything else up in there.

[Spittybug]

Thanks Rich. I don't know why I didn't check the DMCH schematics... duh.

Console is out. Radio bracket is out. Everything disconnected. What a mess. I'm missing that gene that tells me to STOP doing shit like this.......

Time to start designing. Maybe a 4 gauge + to the trunk, a new fuse and relay box that's easily accessible and then pull everything through the front wall to the dash..... :hmm:

Biggest PITA would probably be ignition switch with all of the things it controls.

"Relays are my friend, relays are my friend......"

[Tillsy]

Wouldn't it be nice to unplug one simple connector when removing the center console? :approve:

That's something I addressed as part of my custom centre console - because I was drastically increasing the number of switches, sockets, etc I didn't want to have 17 or more plugs to remove each time. To that end I instead have just TWO 15-pin connectors - one handles all the inputs and the other has the outputs. Each item including the clock, each switch, USB port, etc still has its own socket and plug to ease future maintenance but they plug into MY harness and only my two big plugs need removing - each using opposing sex so they cannot be accidentally connected to the wrong harness.

[Jonathan]

There are some photos of the bracket that buzzer is on in this thread, Owen.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6885-Flasher-Relay-location&p=100198&viewfull=1#post100198

Might help you locate it.

[Spittybug]

Ok, replacing the harness just isn't going to happen. WAAAYYYY too many touch points. I am going to do some rebundling, weeding and general cleaning up. I've got some splices for the computer power supply, the USB sockets and the LED lighting I've added so I think I'll simplify some of that. I also just ordered Dave's A/C light panel that will materially help too.

I had hoped to take Tilly's center console idea and extend it to include the whole mid-dash panel too - a one piece look. Once I started digging into it though I found there just isn't much one can do to change it. Need the air vents unless you are willing to cut into the knee pads, need the radio.... the only thing that was really feasible was putting modern knobs on the climate switches and streamlining things a bit. Not worth the work.

While I may still explore a replacement center console, this has dropped in the list....

[Spittybug]

I found the freakin buzzer. Some PO had wrapped it in duct tape, hence the muffled sound. It was also tucked way up and away from sight. Before I dig into the schematic, I suppose I'll just ask outright; can I simply leave it out and do nothing with the dangling harness or will I need to jumper some of those pins? I don' want/need my car barking at me!

Right now I have the glove out, binnacle off, center and A/C consoles out and all knee pads off. Of course, as per SOP, driver's seat and steering wheel are long out and the car is on the lift for better access.

Virtually every bolt for the knee pads is sitting in a split socket. :rant: I don't just mean that the studs are working out from overtightening, I mean the plastic has split. No wonder I had squeaks and jiggly knee pads. I think my project is now morphing into making beautiful wood panels to replace the knee pads (which I've never been a big fan of). I made a couple of nice dashboards for the 2 Spitfires I owned, so this shouldn't be to bad. I've already mocked up with sheet foam and it looks pretty straight forward. This will give me the opportunity to do some of the mods I've always wanted to do. I'm going to try and integrate foot well lighting, move the door vents to the knee pads, create power ports for USB (5v) and 19v for laptops, add a few buttons for remote functions like exterior lights or future additions and maybe even a fold up/down monitor. I'm still debating if I even want to put the silly little glove compartment back in or put the space to better use. I'm installing Bitsyncmaster's a/c panel light and I'll dig into the binnacle and do the multicolor mod I think.

Given the cost of replacing the knee pads, I can afford to spend a lot of time and effort making these nice!

[DMCMW Dave]

I found the freakin buzzer. Some PO had wrapped it in duct tape, hence the muffled sound. It was also tucked way up and away from sight. Before I dig into the schematic, I suppose I'll just ask outright; can I simply leave it out and do nothing with the dangling harness or will I need to jumper some of those pins? I don' want/need my car barking at me!

!

Pull it out. No other functions.

[Tillsy]

I found the freakin buzzer. Some PO had wrapped it in duct tape, hence the muffled sound. It was also tucked way up and away from sight. Before I dig into the schematic, I suppose I'll just ask outright; can I simply leave it out and do nothing with the dangling harness or will I need to jumper some of those pins? I don' want/need my car barking at me!


Pull it out. No other functions.

It provides the signal to illuminate the seat belt light on the dash - but if one doesn't care for the warning buzz probably don't care about the light either ;)

[Spittybug]

Pull it out. No other functions.

:cheers: Just what I was hoping to hear. Thanks Dave.

[dmcnorway]

:cheers: Just what I was hoping to hear. Thanks Dave.


One thing: Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the buzzer (with better, more discrete sound)
I'd like to install a modern day buzzer that is plug-and-play for the old buzzer.

Stian Birkeland
Norway

[rdarlington]

One thing: Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the buzzer (with better, more discrete sound)
I'd like to install a modern day buzzer that is plug-and-play for the old buzzer.

Stian Birkeland
Norway

Plug and play? not really, but there is this thread, starting especially around post #10:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1349-annoying-buzzer

[Spittybug]

Buzzer removed, wiring cleaned up, Bitsyncmaster's A/C panel installed (highly recommended), wiring cleaned up, center console back in.

FREAKIN BUZZ IS STILL THERE!

I disconnected the Alpine head unit and no noise. I think it is the CD loading sound even though there is no CD loading. I hope it isn't on it's way out or anything like that. Well, at least I know what it is.

I've got my replacement knee pads mocked up. One will get a switch or two for accessories, the passenger one will get an embedded monitor for connecting the Raspberry Pi computer (to watch Megasquirt and tune if desired) and both sides will get air vents so that I can get rid of the fairly useless door vents. My interior is black, so I'm trying to determine if I want a highly contrasting light wood color like Ash, a colorful contrast like Pauduk, or deep and dark like Cocobolo or Walnut. I'm still going to do like Tilly did to his center console, but in wood. Having it flow around to the knee pads should look really nice.