What is the best way to see if your ball joints are Bad?

[Some guy]

I have a rattle in the front end when i i hit a bump. it sounds like a metal rattle. When i lift up the car and try to move the front end around, it all feels tight.

i have been all over and around the car, but the only part left to replace is the ball joint. but they don't feel like they have play in them.

[Tillsy]

Last time I heard that I'd accidentally left some tools lying in the trunk ;)

[Michael]

^ check the jack compartment and the spare tire area for loose items..in fact, just remove everything and go for a drive and see if you can replicate the problem. In the end, you may Indeed have a bad bushing or rack but look for the simplest things first.

[Some guy]

I hope you are right. it is funny i never even had that cross my mind.

[David T]

I hope you are right. it is funny i never even had that cross my mind.

Getting to the original post, when was the last time the ball joints were greased? Is there any play shimmy, or looseness felt in the steering? Are any dust covers torn or missing? If you are driving on a straight, flat road with no crown will the car go straight if you take your hands off the steering wheel? Is the steering wheel pointed straight ahead when you are driving straight? Does the car turn equally to the left and the right? Is anything bent, broken or rusted out in the front? Why do you think you have a problem with the ball joints?

[Some guy]

The ball joints were greased less then 1000 miles ago. The car drives straight, but it dose pull to the right when i hit the brakes. I was told last year when i had an aliment that the from passenger side was with in spec, but off by 1 inch from factory. I measured the tires in the wheel well and they are the same distance from the fender(Driver side compared to the passenger side).

I thought the ball joints might be bad since i hear a metal rattle when i hit bumps. I did have the driver side control arm off the car, and there was no play in the ball joint that i can remember. I just cant remember how to tell if there are bad or on there way out.

It is a California car, So there is not much rust on it.

[Dangermouse]

Check the tops of your struts. It seems to be common-ish for the rubber part to push through the mounting hole and make the strut loose. Or you may not have lock nuts on the struts (like me)

[David T]

If it pulls right during braking it may be because you have a stuck piston in the left caliper. I have no idea what you are describing about your alignment being an 1" off from the factory. Measuring off the body is no way to check alignment. A typical symptom of bad ball joints is a feeling of a lot of play (slop) in the steering with no definite center point. A metal noise from the front suspension is more likely caused by bad strut bushings to the frame. I would check the trunk and jack storage area first for stuff moving around.

[Some guy]

That makes a lot of sense, about the strut. I will check that later.

The pulling now has me thinking about the brakes. I know the rotters have to be cut. They vibrate when pressed at highway speeds.

But since the bearings have to be pressed out, i think i have to just take it to a DMC shop.

[jmettee]

Though less likely, I would also check to make sure the steering rack is secured with the 2 brackets. Also, a worn/loosed tired ball joint could also cause a metallic clunk or rattle under certain conditions (just did this on a Dodge Caliber after searching for that sound for about 2 years).

[David T]

Though less likely, I would also check to make sure the steering rack is secured with the 2 brackets. Also, a worn/loosed tired ball joint could also cause a metallic clunk or rattle under certain conditions (just did this on a Dodge Caliber after searching for that sound for about 2 years).

Rotors that need to be cut either have gouges that need to be removed or they are not flat and parallel and cause the pedal to pulsate when braking. Any good shop can press bearings. There can be all sorts of sources for clunking and noises. The upper mounts for the shocks are common too. The point here is if you have problems with the front suspension the first thing you need to do is a thorough visual examination to find the obvious.

[jmettee]

. Also, a worn/loosed tired ball joint......

That's supposed to be worn/loose tie rod end joint. Brain was not fully engaged.

[aipri]

I'm having a similar issue, when I hit a bump there is a metal crunching sound sound up front. When the car is parked and push down on either front strut its very creaky. Also when I come to stop or first start accelerating there is a creaking also.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm having a similar issue, when I hit a bump there is a metal crunching sound sound up front. When the car is parked and push down on either front strut its very creaky. Also when I come to stop or first start accelerating there is a creaking also.

Spray lube all the sway bar bushings with silicone


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[David T]

Spray lube all the sway bar bushings with silicone


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While you are lubricating, grease the ball joints and tie rod ends. If the joints don't have grease fittings use a needle under the dust boot. Also spray the steering bushing and lube the angle drive. Don't forget the 2 U joints for the steering shaft. Inspect the 4 C/V boots on the half-shafts and look for leaks while you are under the car. If you have a 5-speed check the level in the tranny and if an automatic check the final drive.

[aipri]

Thanks guys, I'll get to work!

[BigBenb84]

I have a little short rattle up front when hitting a bump. It is the shock. I have the Spaxx where the bottom bolt loop is slightly bigger then the bolt that hold it on so it does a little ching-ching when the suspension changes direction.

Verified by removing the front shocks and driving up the road and back, it was completely gone.

[jawn101]

While you are lubricating, grease the ball joints and tie rod ends. If the joints don't have grease fittings use a needle under the dust boot. Also spray the steering bushing and lube the angle drive. Don't forget the 2 U joints for the steering shaft. Inspect the 4 C/V boots on the half-shafts and look for leaks while you are under the car. If you have a 5-speed check the level in the tranny and if an automatic check the final drive.

Interesting question here. What kind of lube should be used on the U-joints in the steering shaft? I have Martin's upgraded one and would like to keep it as excellent as it is.

[SS Spoiler]

Don Steger always used ZEP45 spray. It has teflon in it.

[Some guy]

Thanks for the info on the Shocks. I think that was my problem.

This weekend i went to a do it your self garage, and replaced a bad bushing on the swing arm. I am only saying that because it was so much easier with all professional tools to use.

Any way, i looked at the metal washer on top of shock, and it was shinny/ bare metal. So as a quick fix i put a rubber washer there to keep the noise down. It has worked so far.

Also the ball joint felt tight, so i took that as a good sign.

next is getting the rotors cut, I will have to start looking on how easy or hard it is to press bearing into the hubs.