Car alarm removal

[Rich_NYS]

Yesterday began week 3 of owning this car.

Last night I began poking around at the alarm wiring & components (I have zero car alarm experience.) My plan is to not prioritize the alarm removal, but keep it "on the burner" and trace out/remove wiring & components as I encounter them while sorting out other issues on the car. Over time, I'll continue to update this thread with pics of the items I encounter and very much appreciate any help I can get.

At present, the alarm doesn't work, so I'm ass-u-me-ing I can remove it a bit at a time without issue. I'm trying to become as familiar as possible with the car as I work on it, and part of how I'd like to do that is to "return to normal" things like hacked wiring.

Here's the first round of pics, and the first item I'd like to normalize if I can safely remove the solid Blue wire and splice the Blue/White back together:

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24874

24872

24876


Here's what I believe to be the same blue wire that is spliced the the Blue/White wire in the column; it exits the firewall, routes into the driver's side headlight area, across toward the passenger side headlight area and appears to enter a wiring harness (?)

24875

[Rich]

Looks like a fun project, the alarm-endectomy.

The blue wire thru the luggage compartment probably ties into the headlights and/or parking lights and used to flash them when the alarm tripped. It can go. Be sure to safely terminate all of the wire ends that remain.

As for figuring out what is original vs. aftermarket/PO you will want to become familiar with the factory wiring. It's helpful even if your wiring hasn't been hacked. Here are some resources in case you have not found them:

There is a link to a post that has a .pdf of the diagram AND the legend for it (posts 1 and 2 in this thread)
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17-DMC-12-color-wiring-diagram

There is a set of handy component-centric diagrams listed by system:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

And you can buy a laminated poster-size version of the wiring diagram from DMCH now. Post it in your garage...next to your wire cutters.
http://store.delorean.com/p-9202-wiring-diagram-lg.aspx

[DMCMW Dave]

Here's what I believe to be the same blue wire that is spliced the the Blue/White wire in the column; it exits the firewall, routes into the driver's side headlight area, across toward the passenger side headlight area and appears to enter a wiring harness (?)



And that's what is wrong with alarm installers. There is zero reason that connection could not have been made in the electrical compartment of the car.

In most cases, you can just follow the wiring from the brain box and carefully cut it all out. The only risk (and it's pretty rare) is that they have some sort of starter interlock wired in, and when you disconnect the system the car won't start any more. Just look for some abnormally heavy wiring tied into the white-red wiring (that color is used only on the ignition-to-starter path). Once you find that it's pretty easy to figure out what they cut, and just put it back to original.

[Rich_NYS]

Looks like a fun project, the alarm-endectomy.

The blue wire thru the luggage compartment probably ties into the headlights and/or parking lights and used to flash them when the alarm tripped. It can go. Be sure to safely terminate all of the wire ends that remain.

As for figuring out what is original vs. aftermarket/PO you will want to become familiar with the factory wiring. It's helpful even if your wiring hasn't been hacked. Here are some resources in case you have not found them:



I had some, but not all.....good stuff there, thanks!

[Dangermouse]

http://sd.keepcalm-o-matic.co.uk/i/keep-calm-and-cut-the-red-wire-no-blue-wire.png

[Rich_NYS]

LOL! If it's anything like pills.... red for me, Morpheus! 8)

[David T]

LOL! If it's anything like pills.... red for me, Morpheus! 8)

I do not believe you can do an alarmectomy piecemeal. Bite the bullet and do it all at once. Try to retape and reinsulate everything well so as not to have any future problems. It should be easily evident as to what is original and what is added. The gauge and color of the wiring will be different and sloppily covered or attached. Most alarm installers try to do the job as quickly as they can and have no pride in their work. Like most things on the car, a lot of what you will have to do is to undo the work of previous owners and their techs.

[Rich_NYS]

I do not believe you can do an alarmectomy piecemeal. Bite the bullet and do it all at once.

I think part of it is already gone, but I'm not familiar enough to know. The horn wire appears to have been disconnected for a long time, the insulation is off the wire where it goes through the firewall and I [so far] haven't found the other end of the wire.

I'll get some pics up soon.

[Rich]

....the insulation is off the wire where it goes through the firewall and I [so far] haven't found the other end of the wire.

And there's yet another reason DeLoreans are such great cars - frayed wiring thru the firewall and no chance of a short circuit since the "firewall" is made of fiberglass.

Sloppy aftermarket wiring.

One other idea relative putting your D back into more original condition is for you to see if there are any other owners you can get together with locally for comparison.

[Rich_NYS]

I see some wiring that looks a little out of place, but not sure if it's part of the alarm. When I have more time I'll trace out anything suspect, but in the meantime here's some pics for review....see anything I should RIP OUT?!


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24909

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Is the thin red wire possibly part of the alarm?

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The wires seen on the horn I haven't yet found on the other side of the firewall.

24914

[DMCMW Dave]

The small red and green wiring that looks out of place is your power antenna wiring. Don't take that out (assuming the antenna works).

[Rich]

I see some wiring that looks a little out of place, but not sure if it's part of the alarm. When I have more time I'll trace out anything suspect, but in the meantime here's some pics for review....see anything I should RIP OUT?!
24908
Red wire on driver side could be the power wire to the motorized radio antenna mounted inside left pontoon, which is why you would not see it on other side of "firewall". If it's going to the antenna then you look for it inside the pontoon after removing the charcoal canister cover/mount.

Is the thin red wire (on the passenger side) possibly part of the alarm?
24911
Could be aftermarket 12V(+) to almost anything, including the alarm control module, wherever it is/was. Use a 12V test probe or VOM to see if it's hot or not. In any case you can disconnect it at that terminal and then see what stops working. Non-original. If no useful function is discovered then rip it out, although that may require removing the console depending on where they strung the rest of the wire. Alternative is to disconnect and terminate/stub it in place.

The wires seen on the horn I haven't yet found on the other side of the firewall.
24914
Stubby red wire protruding from the alarm horn is probably the alarm horn (+) and the other wire would likely be (-). Use a VOM to make sure the negative wire is grounded or just trace it. Rip out that ugly thing. And the ground wire that's probably coming out of it.

Best guesses inserted above.

You may be in for some real adventures behind the dash. Good luck.

[Rich_NYS]

The small red and green wiring that looks out of place is your power antenna wiring. Don't take that out (assuming the antenna works).

Thanks Dave, the antenna does work...I'll leave 'em alone :thumbup:

BTW, it not only works but also looks pretty cool when it comes up outta that vent! :cool1:

[Rich_NYS]

Best guesses inserted above.

You may be in for some real adventures behind the dash. Good luck.


Thanks Rich, I actually think some of the alarm has already been removed so maybe I'll get lucky and not get into a mess.

I cut that blue wire out of the column & normalized the original wiring...so far, so good (I think.)

Dave mentioned my power antenna, that has to be what the red wire is for.

[Rich_NYS]

What does an alarm unit look like and where would I be likely to find it (if it still exists?)

[Jonathan]

The wires seen on the horn I haven't yet found on the other side of the firewall.

24914


What does an alarm unit look like and where would I be likely to find it (if it still exists?)

Rich, can you post a zoomed out photo of your engine bay? Specifically the area around the alarm horn/siren you pictured here. Sometimes the brains/box doing the thinking is mounted in the engine bay. I don't recognize what the silver looking object is in the corner of this photo so thought we could get a better look to identify it/rule it out.

[NightFlyer]

The rectangular aluminum box protruding from the bulkhead/firewall, as seen in your picture of the alarm horn, is a part of the alarm.

[Jonathan]

The rectangular aluminum box protruding from the bulkhead/firewall, as seen in your picture of the alarm horn, is a part of the alarm.

Not sure if this link will work. Found a photo of said box in Rich's photo album:

http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=213&attachmentid=23891

Agreed on it being alarm related. Rich, see if you can find any markings on it or otherwise identifying aspects. It's not standard and didn't come from Dunmurry I can tell you that.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks, I was looking at that piece yesterday and noticed I didn't see the wires on the other side for it. I'll remove it & look again for the wires, I think they might be cut off from inside and I further believe this thing is half-assed removed already.

I'll continue removing it in between working on the other stuff.


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[refugeefromcalif]

Rich, an off the wall question. Once you have the out dated alarm removed, Any plans on installing a modern one?

George

[Rich_NYS]

Rich, an off the wall question. Once you have the out dated alarm removed, Any plans on installing a modern one?

George

No plans at the moment to install a modern one...

[NightFlyer]

In the photo that Jonathan links to above, there's a black box located just below the resistor grid with wires running in and out of it. I'm not sure exactly what that is, but can tell you that it's definitely not stock/OEM. I'm guessing that it's the brain of the alarm, although this is only a guess.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23891&d=1387225972

[Jonathan]

In the photo that Jonathan links to above, there's a black box located just below the resistor grid with wires running in and out of it. I'm not sure exactly what that is, but can tell you that it's definitely not stock/OEM. I'm guessing that it's the brain of the alarm, although this is only a guess.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=23891&d=1387225972

Is the auto trans diagnostic plug one of the things in the picture you're thinking of?

http://store.delorean.com/p-8909-auto-trans-computer.aspx

[DMCMW Dave]

In the photo that Jonathan links to above, there's a black box located just below the resistor grid with wires running in and out of it. I'm not sure exactly what that is, but can tell you that it's definitely not stock/OEM. I'm guessing that it's the brain of the alarm, although this is only a guess.

]

The silver box is a shaker switch. If someone bumps the car it sets off the alarm. You'd laugh out loud if you could see what's inside it.

[NightFlyer]

Is the auto trans diagnostic plug one of the things in the picture you're thinking of?

http://store.delorean.com/p-8909-auto-trans-computer.aspx

That would be it - I forgot for a moment that his car was an auto.

Sorry!

Nevermind :bang: :smashfreak:

[NightFlyer]

The silver box is a shaker switch. If someone bumps the car it sets off the alarm. You'd laugh out loud if you could see what's inside it.

Just looking at the outside of it is enough to make me laugh at it :hippo:

[Rich_NYS]

The silver box is a shaker switch. If someone bumps the car it sets off the alarm. You'd laugh out loud if you could see what's inside it.

I'll take a pic and we'll see!

So it's just the horn & shaker switch under the hood to remove, do I have that right?

[DMCMW Dave]

I'll take a pic and we'll see!

So it's just the horn & shaker switch under the hood to remove, do I have that right?

Yes. If it's a typical alarm from the 80s there is a small brain box somewhere, but probably in the back electrical area or hidden inside the pontoon near the antenna. Possibly under the dash. Follow the mysterious blue wire from the front and you'll find it, or at least where it was.

[Rich_NYS]

Hi-Tech, yo...


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I'm gonna put it on ebay & start the bid @400 for a vintage shaker switch.

I'll probably get lead poisoning from that hunk o' lead in there....thanksalot, Dave! :biggrin:

[Jonathan]

I'll probably get lead poisoning from that hunk o' lead in there....thanksalot, Dave! :biggrin:

Nah, you'll be dead from the asbestos in the heatshields before the lead gets to you................ j/k.

[Rich_NYS]

Nah, you'll be dead from the asbestos in the heatshields before the lead gets to you................ j/k.

:yesss:

[Rich_NYS]

After I finished my steering column bushing tonite, I went after a few more alarm pieces.

I'm having trouble tracing a few wires....canya help?

Where should I find the white wire that goes through the firewall? Is it possible it routes along the back & comes out by the fuse box? Same for the wire shown in pics below that attached to the removed alarm horn (it's broken off just inside the hole the white wire goes in.)

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These are pics of the removed horn. The wire colors seem to match the one I compare against near the fuse box. Do ya think they are the same wire?

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Are these part of the alarm?

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I have more pics of where some more of this led me, I followed the blue wire in the luggage compartment....and got a little carried away -lol!

[DMCMW Dave]

After I finished my steering column bushing tonite, I went after a few more alarm pieces.

I'm having trouble tracing a few wires....canya help?

Where should I find the white wire that goes through the firewall? Is it possible it routes along the back & comes out by the fuse box? Same for the wire shown in pics below that attached to the removed alarm horn (it's broken off just inside the hole the white wire goes in.)

24965


These are pics of the removed horn. The wire colors seem to match the one I compare against near the fuse box. Do ya think they are the same wire?

24968

24966


Are these part of the alarm?

24967

I have more pics of where some more of this led me, I followed the blue wire in the luggage compartment....and got a little carried away -lol!

The round black things are not part of the alarm. They are the diode logic circuit for the cooling fans. Leave them alone for now!!

[Jonathan]

Do you know how to do a continuity test on a particular wire? You'll need a multimeter for it. Basically if you are wondering if the one end of a wire is connected to another end of a wire in question, you hook leads up to the two ends and your multimeter will tell you if it completes a circuit or not.

[Rich_NYS]

Do you know how to do a continuity test on a particular wire? You'll need a multimeter for it. Basically if you are wondering if the one end of a wire is connected to another end of a wire in question, you hook leads up to the two ends and your multimeter will tell you if it completes a circuit or not.

I'm familiar, but can't reach both ends. I could rig something up, but I'll probably try a tone & probe next.

But....I think the wires I'm comparing against go to the cooling fan components Dave mentioned.

Later tonite or tomorrow I'll post pics of where the "blue wire" went into the headlight region.


Where does the hole [that the white wire is in] lead to?

[Rich_NYS]

One thing led to another and I arrived here:

2496924970249712497224973249742497524976

After finding a nest here & in the cubby, I gotta believe those little bastards also made it into the ductwork somewhere.

So, the good news is: I finished replacing the steering column bushing before getting involved in this mess. :rock_on:

[DMCMW Dave]

One thing led to another and I arrived here:

:

Looks like you found the blue wire, but it was installed by mice.

[Mark D]

Man I can't say I envy the work you've got ahead to clear out all the PO wiring hacks. I'd take a few critter nests over that any day. You've got plenty of help here though, keep the questions coming as you work through fixing everything

[DMC5180]

I know what I would would do if this was my car ( get a fresh Headlamp harness) http://store.delorean.com/p-7160-headlamp-harness.aspx

and replace the Crusty headlight brackets.

[Rich_NYS]

I have this mostly sorted out, just unsure about a connection or two.

The Blue/White wire to the headlights was hacked for the car alarm and I'm un-hacking it.

What I have left is:

-An open between the passenger side and drivers' side (seems obvious where to re-connect.)

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-An open at the drivers' side inner headlight (also seems obvious where to re-connect.)

25003

-Both wires open at the drivers' side outer, as well as the path to the fuse and path to the indicator lights. The other end of the paths to the drivers' side inner and path to the open on the passenger side are here as well.

25004


It seems like I need to make a 4-wire connection to make it happen, will someone confirm/deny?

Thanks!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you have a schematic?

Blue/white goes to both headlights on each side. So you should have all four headlights have one or two blue/white wires and both low beam headlights have one or two blue/red wires. All four headlights will have one or two black wires.

I say one or two wires because I don't know where the harness makes a splice. It's common to spice at a crimped pin.

[Rich]

The simplified schematic you need is the 4th one down in this diagram:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

You might as well get familiar with the circuits since those critters seem to have been pretty busy around your car...

4 wires? Well, it depends on where the wires got split, as Dave suggests. Check the diagram. The color codes make it easy.

If you are not putting in a new harness and plan to splice each of the broken wires then be sure you do an excellent job of moisture-proofing the splices. It can get wet in that cavity.

[Rich_NYS]

Do you have a schematic?

I have two schematics; the one Rich links to and the complete diagram in .PDF; one shows two 3-wire splice points, the other shows a 4-wire splice point. The Blue/White wires connect at each headlight as you mention, but I'm still left with the scenario above.

All in the same location I have:

Wire to the indicator light
Wire to the fuse
Wire leading to the passenger side
Wire to the drivers' side high
Both wires to the drivers' side low

So that will leave me with a 4-wire splice after I connect the high-beam to one of the low-beam leads.

Looks like I'll definitely need to do that, what type of splice is recommended....soldering?



The simplified schematic you need is the 4th one down in this diagram:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics

You might as well get familiar with the circuits since those critters seem to have been pretty busy around your car...

4 wires? Well, it depends on where the wires got split, as Dave suggests. Check the diagram. The color codes make it easy.

If you are not putting in a new harness and plan to splice each of the broken wires then be sure you do an excellent job of moisture-proofing the splices. It can get wet in that cavity.


If I follow the simplified schematic, that would put a 3-wire splice at the drivers' side headlight w/the wire leading to the fuse, drivers' side headlights & wire leading to the passenger side. Also a 3-wire splice w/ the wire leading to the indicator lights, wire from the drivers' side & wire leading to the passenger side. I can't do that because the car isn't wired quite like the simplified schematic; the lead to the indicator lights is located in the same place as the lead to the fuse.

The car is wired more like the full schematic which shows a 4-wire splice. I can do that with what I have, just wondering if anyone who had theirs apart recalls seeing 4 wires together(fuse, indicator, both headlights,) or will I be cob-jobbing it.

I might be over-thinking it....I'll put 'em together & see how it goes.


Thanks guys!

[DMC5180]

This is somewhat a process of elimination. How many BLUE/white wire come forward out of the Grommet hole (harness bundle)? Any Idea why there is a 20 amp fuse taped to that wire? Also I see a few wires Flag taped, One has a notch cut in it is there another that matches it?

[Rich_NYS]

This is somewhat a process of elimination. How many BLUE/white wire come forward out of the Grommet hole (harness bundle)? Any Idea why there is a 20 amp fuse taped to that wire? Also I see a few wires Flag taped, One has a notch cut in it is there another that matches it?

I have everything traced out, there are two Blue/White wires coming out of the harness bundle (Indicator light & fuse.)
I put the fuse & flags there to mark the wires....notes below added to my earlier post.



I have two schematics; the one Rich links to and the complete diagram in .PDF; one shows two 3-wire splice points, the other shows a 4-wire splice point. The Blue/White wires connect at each headlight as you mention, but I'm still left with the scenario above.

All in the same location I have:

Wire to the indicator light: No tag, insulation is stripped back.
Wire to the fuse: 20 amp fuse taped to it.
Wire leading to the passenger side: Notched flag
Wire to the drivers' side high: Solid flag
Both wires to the drivers' side low: unmarked (fully visible.)

So that will leave me with a 4-wire splice after I connect the drivers' side high-beam to one of the drivers' side low-beam leads.

Looks like I'll definitely need to do that, what type of splice is recommended....soldering?




The car is wired more like the full schematic which shows a 4-wire splice. I can do that with what I have, just wondering if anyone who had theirs apart recalls seeing 4 wires together(fuse, indicator, both headlights,) or will I be cob-jobbing it.


Thanks guys!

I did as I mentioned and the lights function exactly as they did before (only high beams work, only when lever is pulled back) so I think I have a nicer cleaner slate to work with when I troubleshoot the pre-existing headlight problem.

I'm still curious to hear from someone who got into this area and noticed if a bunch of Blue/White wires were spliced & how.

Here's the after pic:

25008

[NightFlyer]

I did as I mentioned and the lights function exactly as they did before (only high beams work, only when lever is pulled back) so I think I have a nicer cleaner slate to work with when I troubleshoot the pre-existing headlight problem.

Did you check to make sure that the low beam filaments in the headlights aren't merely burnt out?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I don;t think the schematics will show you where and how many splices are in the harness. I think each side (driver and passenger) wiring is separately wired to the connectors. They do use two large ground wires (from memory) with each ground wire only feeding one side.

For high current splices I like to use non insulated butt terminals which I also solder after I crimp them. Don't forget to put some shrink tubing onto the wires first.

[DMC5180]

How did you confirm the fuse wire and indicator wires? Assumption or continuity test. The reason I asked, is that I would find it ODD they would run the indicator wire backwards from the front of the car rather than branch off in the MAIN harness as the other wires continue forward to the front. My schematic shows two wires feeding the High beams (left,right) after that 4 way gang splice which i'm pretty sure occurs in the passenger compartment.

[Rich_NYS]

How did you confirm the fuse wire and indicator wires? Assumption or continuity test.

Continuity test.




The reason I asked, is that I would find it ODD they would run the indicator wire backwards from the front of the car rather than branch off in the MAIN harness as the other wires continue forward to the front.

Totally agree.


My schematic shows two wires feeding the High beams (left,right) after that 4 way gang splice which i'm pretty sure occurs in the passenger compartment.

The detailed schematic shows that, but the simplified schematic is a bit different (I'd expect either to be work.)

Thinking back, I don't recall if I tested for continuity between [what I believed to be] the indicator wire and the fused wire. With a 4-wire splice in the passenger compartment, the continuity test I did would pass no matter which wire I tested.

Hmmmm....gonna have to test again, this makes more sense now:

Wire "to the indicator light" might be actually going to a 4-wire splice
Wire "to the fuse" might be actually going to the same 4-wire splice
Wire leading to the passenger side
Wire to the drivers' side high
Two wires on the drivers' side low


I'm going to test for that 4-wire splice, and I expect to find continuity to prove it out.

Then in the headlight compartment there would be:

Wire to the passenger side<-->Wire "to the indicator light" that actually goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)
Wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire to the drivers' side high
Other wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire "to the fuse" that actually goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)

That would do it! All 6 wires, and no crazyass splice in the headlight area. I'm gonna test for continuity between the two wires that come into the headlight area.

[Rich_NYS]

I don;t think the schematics will show you where and how many splices are in the harness. I think each side (driver and passenger) wiring is separately wired to the connectors.

I think this is key....gonna retest & rewire.


Did you check to make sure that the low beam filaments in the headlights aren't merely burnt out?

Yes (well, maybe.) I have no voltage at the connector and also noticed that I get no marker or indicator lights either. The only thing that works is high beams w/stalk pullback (only inner beams.) Pre-existing condition when I bought the car. I'll straighten out the wiring, then troubleshoot it after fixing a few other things.

[Jonathan]

Do any of your rear lights work Rich?

Tail lights? including brake lights (bulbs 2 and 4 of the 5), running lights (bulb 3 in the centre of the lens), reversing lights (white, inside bulb #1), turn signals (orange, bulb #5)?

I am curious if the problems are isolated to the front. Do your turn signals work in the back? What happens if you press the hazards switch on the dash?

When you press the headlight switch, what happens? Do your marker lights come on under any circumstances? What about the license plates bulbs (x2) in the rear above the bezel?

Can you tell much about the condition of the head light switch? New style, old/original? Melted? I can't recall what gets routed through it and if it was bad whether anything upfront would still come on. There was a temporary jumper solution to help owners caught with a bad head light switch get home and perhaps you could rig that up if necessary to rule out the switch is causing additional problems? Just an idea.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm going to test for that 4-wire splice, and I expect to find continuity to prove it out.

Then in the headlight compartment there would be:

Wire to the passenger side<-->Wire "to the indicator light" that actually goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)
Wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire to the drivers' side high
Other wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire "to the fuse" that actually goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)

That would do it! All 6 wires, and no crazyass splice in the headlight area. I'm gonna test for continuity between the two wires that come into the headlight area.


That was it.

Last night I screwed up when I didn't test for continuity between the two wires coming into the headlight area (from the harness,) so the unraveled wiring is:


Wire to the passenger side<-->Wire in harness that goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)
Wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire to the drivers' side high
Other wire on the drivers' side low<-->Wire in harness that goes to a 4-wire splice (passenger compartment)

Makes sense now; what I'm seeing in the headlight area now matches what I see on the detailed schematic, and there's only "straight" spilces in the headlight area.





The reason I asked, is that I would find it ODD they would run the indicator wire backwards from the front of the car rather than branch off in the MAIN harness as the other wires continue forward to the front.

Thanks Dennis, you kick-started my thought process. :cheers:

[Rich_NYS]

Do any of your rear lights work Rich?

Tail lights? including brake lights (bulbs 2 and 4 of the 5), running lights (bulb 3 in the centre of the lens), reversing lights (white, inside bulb #1), turn signals (orange, bulb #5)?

I am curious if the problems are isolated to the front. Do your turn signals work in the back? What happens if you press the hazards switch on the dash?

When you press the headlight switch, what happens? Do your marker lights come on under any circumstances? What about the license plates bulbs (x2) in the rear above the bezel?

Can you tell much about the condition of the head light switch? New style, old/original? Melted? I can't recall what gets routed through it and if it was bad whether anything upfront would still come on. There was a temporary jumper solution to help owners caught with a bad head light switch get home and perhaps you could rig that up if necessary to rule out the switch is causing additional problems? Just an idea.

I'll check & let you know....I'll likely put the troubleshooting on standby for now, I wanted to first unravel the alarm wiring & repolace the fuse box before diagnosing the electrical issues.

I do know that nothing happens with any push of the headlight switch (no lights at all that I'm aware of.)

Once I have a nice clean slate to work with I think it'll make for easier troubleshooting.

[Rich_NYS]

After I finished my steering column bushing tonite, I went after a few more alarm pieces.

I'm having trouble tracing a few wires....canya help?

Where should I find the white wire that goes through the firewall? Is it possible it routes along the back & comes out by the fuse box? Same for the wire shown in pics below that attached to the removed alarm horn (it's broken off just inside the hole the white wire goes in.)

24965


Found where it comes through:

25016

I removed the panel in the back, above the parcel shelf. From what I've seen, it looks like the alarm was already partially removed and I think I got the rest of it.

[Rich_NYS]

Jonathan, I got a chance to check a few of these:


Do any of your rear lights work Rich? Only the brake lights (I think.)

Tail lights? (No) including brake lights (bulbs 2 and 4 of the 5), running lights (No) (bulb 3 in the centre of the lens), reversing lights (No) (white, inside bulb #1), turn signals (orange, bulb #5)?

I am curious if the problems are isolated to the front. Do your turn signals work in the back? What happens if you press the hazards switch on the dash? I think the hazards work all the way around, but not sure. They definitley work in the front, and indicate on the dash.

When you press the headlight switch, what happens? (Nothing) Do your marker lights come on under any circumstances? (No) What about the license plates bulbs (x2) in the rear above the bezel? (No)



I might get into it a bit more this week or next, we got pounded w/snow and the garage [I'm going to bring the car to] left a message to say he's out of room. I'll now have the car here until later next week, so after I replace the accumulator hoses I'll get started on the fuse box and maybe start digging into this too.

[MML]

Found where it comes through:

25016



The mice have been busy! Same happened to me.