What to use on exterior black trim?

[Rich_NYS]

I've looked through several threads, but not seeing much of a unanimous decision on what to use on the black trim pieces. I'll be painting the sunshade louvre and I read not to use anything on it other than the trim paint, but I want to use something on the rest of the pieces.

I saw Meguiar's Back-to-Black mentioned, but I'm not finding it anywhere....only Mothers Back-to-Black (what's the vote on that stuff?)

What does everyone else use?


Thanks!

[skill]

Hey Rich,

From what I've read in the forum (and thank you all for the contribution on this information) , and anyone feel free to correct me, here's what I've seen that gives the best results IMO for the sunshade louvre, not sure on other trim parts;

⌐ SEM 38373 SEM SOLVE (Wax & Grease Remover) 14.7oz spray can

⌐ BULLDOG ADHESION PROMOTER 15oz spray can.

⌐ SEM 39143 TRIM BLACK 15.5oz spray can.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Brian,

I'm looking for some type of cleaner/restorer to use on the exterior black pieces.

When I paint the louvre, I'll be using the SEM trim stuff for sure... :thumbup:

[skill]

Thanks Brian,

I'm looking for some type of cleaner/restorer to use on the exterior black pieces.

When I paint the louvre, I'll be using the SEM trim stuff for sure... :thumbup:

np bud!

Check Alex's site, I was on this site earlier (very nice step by step)! Look on what he used on the interior... awesome!

btw; autobody paint & supply shops sell "degreasers and fish eye removal" products. You wipe it on and let dry before you spray/apply.

LINK (http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/04/stripping-interior-and-removing-dash.html)

[Rich_NYS]

np bud!

Check Alex's site, I was on this site earlier (very nice step by step)! Look on what he used on the interior... awesome!

btw; autobody paint & supply shops sell "degreasers and fish eye removal" products. You wipe it on and let dry before you spray/apply.

LINK (http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/04/stripping-interior-and-removing-dash.html)

VERY nice site....we are very fortunate there are so many resources.

[skill]

VERY nice site....we are very fortunate there are so many resources.

I whole-heartily agree, w/o this site where would we be? I'm like yourself in accord and very appreciative of this community and support! A+ Livin' the Dream!

[Michael]

I think he means what dressing to use on the pieces. This can go a number of different ways and really it depends on the condition of your parts. It also should be noted that over the years many cars' parts have been painted by P.O.'s to cover up faded plastic and deteriorated rubber and urethane. For now lets assume that nothing has been painted and everything that's black is factory unpainted:

The black "bumpers" on the fascias can actually be compounded and waxed with car wax/rubbing compound or plastic polish. The mirrors, rub strips, side vents, jambs, and lower spoiler can be treated with rubber dressing if they are not too bad. You mentioned "Back to black" and it will work, but only for a short time. If the parts are too oxidized or faded, any dressing is only a temporary solution and will have to be re-applied every so often.

Now a lot of cars got the spray bomb treatment over the years using cheap Walmart paint or similar. If yours has fallen victim then a few different steps can be taken.

Bumper paint can be sanded off and polished or you may decide to just freshen them up with a new coat of paint. If the other pieces (mirrors, jambs, vents) have been painted then sanding off will not be a option as the rough texture will be lost. You might be able to chemically strip the paint off but much of this stripper will almost certainly leave the parts dried, chalked out white and they will have to be painted again anyway.

Other parts that were factory painted such as the trim strip over the windshield and the rear louvers can simply be re painted using proper prep techniques and good paint.

I am lucky to have a remaned car so all of those "backyard restorations" that happen over the lifespan of a car like this have been erased. All I use is a blue solvent based dressing that I get from one of my dealerships' vendors. (18 bucks a gallon)....but again, my parts are mint NOS so they don't need much to keep them up to par.

[kajcienski]

Be very careful using any "back to black" type product on surfaces you ever intend to paint. Most of them make it almost impossible for paint to stick properly until the chemicals fully release from the material - and that takes a long time. Some paint shops even ask if a product like that has been used in the past and will not touch it if so. That being said, the original "Back to Black" (UV activated) has worked wonders in giving the bumpers and trim a deep/rich black look. It also looks great on other black surfaces on the car and lasts a long time. At least that has been my experience.

I also love a product called "Twinkle" for the stainless. It keeps it looking fingerprint free and will not attract dirt like some other products. Cuts through grime as well and safe if over sprayed on paint.

[Rich_NYS]

The mirrors, rub strips, side vents, jambs, and lower spoiler can be treated with rubber dressing if they are not too bad. You mentioned "Back to black" and it will work, but only for a short time. If the parts are too oxidized or faded, any dressing is only a temporary solution and will have to be re-applied every so often.


These are the pieces I'm talking about, nothing has been painted and everything is in good shape. I'm expecting to re-apply periodically, just want to keep the black stuff looking nice.

Do you have a recommendation for what to use?

Thanks!

[Michael]

Be very careful using any "back to black" type product on surfaces you ever intend to paint. Most of them make it almost impossible for paint to stick properly until the chemicals fully release from the material - and that takes a long time. Some paint shops even ask if a product like that has been used in the past and will not touch it if so.


Yup, very true. I color coded the black mirrors, grill, and bumper skirt on a truck. Even though dressing was never put on it, the plastic was still fresh so there was plenty of oils in the plastic itself. I promised the owner the paint would not hold but the manager insisted that I do it, and I tried EVERYTHING to keep it in place. Heavy stripper, cleaning, adhesion promoter. I actually convinced myself that with this much effort, it just may work...for a year of so at least. It lasted about 2 weeks and came off in sheets.

[Rich_NYS]

Be very careful using any "back to black" type product on surfaces you ever intend to paint. Most of them make it almost impossible for paint to stick properly until the chemicals fully release from the material - and that takes a long time. Some paint shops even ask if a product like that has been used in the past and will not touch it if so. That being said, the original "Back to Black" (UV activated) has worked wonders in giving the bumpers and trim a deep/rich black look. It also looks great on other black surfaces on the car and lasts a long time. At least that has been my experience.

I haven't found the OG Back to Black, any suggestions for a close runner-up?

I'm only planning to paint the louvre, so I'll steer clear of that....

[Rich_NYS]

As I think more about it, is it a better idea to paint the pieces w/SEM trim black as needed and forego any dressing-type products? Is that the preferred method of keeping the black pieces nice & black?

[Michael]

These are the pieces I'm talking about, nothing has been painted and everything is in good shape. I'm expecting to re-apply periodically, just want to keep the black stuff looking nice.

Do you have a recommendation for what to use?

Thanks!

Any good rubber dressing should suffice. Some will last longer than others but stay away from the stuff that dries glossy and last for weeks. (I think Armor All makes it) It does last but it also gets crusty and cakes up with repeated use. The stuff I use is not available commercially but it's not hard to come by. Most all reconditioning supply dealers sell their own brand of dressing, usually silicone and solvent based with a blue color and a sweet smell to it. If you intend on keeping the rubber weather seals dressed make sure it will not affect the rubber long term....some dressings can actually accelerate rubber breakdown.


As I think more about it, is it a better idea to paint the pieces w/SEM trim black as needed and forego any dressing-type products? Is that the preferred method of keeping the black pieces nice & black?

I would only paint as a last resort. Once it's painted you can't go back. If your pieces are in good shape then just keep them dressed every so often.

[NightFlyer]

On my car, I only ever use Diversey Inc.'s Deep Gloss Stainless Steel Maintainer on the black plastic exterior trim pieces. I know, sounds weird, but it does the trick for me. Spray a liberal amount onto a paper towel and apply heavily to the trim pieces. Allow to somewhat dry, and then wipe off excess with a fresh paper towel. Done. I do it every time I wipe down the stainless with the same product, which is probably once a week when driving.

http://www.diverseynacatalog.com/Catalog/Product.aspx?family=156

It leaves a nice natural black appearance (not overly dark) and an ever so slight glossy finish (but nothing extreme).

I'd avoid any of the silicone based products, as even though they'll make the pieces look nice and black (and IMHO, almost artificially black) for a short while, they'll also cause significantly faster dry out / fade unless you're constantly reapplying them.

Keep it simple, keep it cheap - that's my motto :smile:

[Rich_NYS]

On my car, I only ever use Diversey Inc.'s Deep Gloss Stainless Steel Maintainer on the black plastic exterior trim pieces. I know, sounds weird, but it does the trick for me. Spray a liberal amount onto a paper towel and apply heavily to the trim pieces. Allow to somewhat dry, and then wipe off excess with a fresh paper towel. Done. I do it every time I wipe down the stainless with the same product, which is probably once a week when driving.

http://www.diverseynacatalog.com/Catalog/Product.aspx?family=156

It leaves a nice natural black appearance (not overly dark) and an ever so slight glossy finish (but nothing extreme).

I'd avoid any of the silicone based products, as even thought they'll make the pieces look nice and black (and IMHO, almost artificially black) for a short while, they'll also cause significantly faster dry out / fade unless you're constantly reapplying them.

Keep it simple, keep it cheap - that's my motto :smile:


Thanks Josh....any chance I'd still be able to paint after using this (if I ever want/needed to?)

Makes me also want to ask: what you use on your door seals?

[David T]

If you can find it, Black Again is the stuff to use. It lasts and will make all of the exterior black plastic and rubber surfaces look like new. From the rear sunshade to the grills behind the doors, the side rub rail, and the bumpers. The rear view mirrors, the door sills, everywhere. Yes, if you do intend to paint any of this it is difficult to remove so you do not contaminate the paint.

[NightFlyer]

Thanks Josh....any chance I'd still be able to paint after using this (if I ever want/needed to?)

Makes me also want to ask: what you use on your door seals?

It's a water based product, so using it won't affect subsequent paint-ability, should you decide to go that route.

As for the door seals, I use 303 Aerospace Protectant, when I treat the vinyl with the same product, roughly twice every year. Good stuff.

http://www.303products.com/303r-aerospace-protectant-32oz.html

[kajcienski]

If you can find it, Black Again is the stuff to use. It lasts and will make all of the exterior black plastic and rubber surfaces look like new. From the rear sunshade to the grills behind the doors, the side rub rail, and the bumpers. The rear view mirrors, the door sills, everywhere. Yes, if you do intend to paint any of this it is difficult to remove so you do not contaminate the paint.

Oops! I said "Back to Black" in an earlier post as what I use - I meant to say "Black Again" as David just mentioned above. Long day. "Black Again" is the UV activated product - It works great and last a good long while.

[Rich]

These are the pieces I'm talking about, nothing has been painted and everything is in good shape. I'm expecting to re-apply periodically, just want to keep the black stuff looking nice.

Meguire's Natural Shine is good. Lasts about a year between reapplications and a little goes a long way.
Black Again is OK, too.
No Armor All!!

Try to keep the application as thin, yet even, as you can. Wipe off any excess. Twice. Too shiny otherwise. Especially on the fascias. Keep it off the SS.

Good for the side vents, the louver/sunshade, the lower rocker panels, the spoiler, the lower quarter panel trim behind the rear wheels and the side rub strips. Also good for the unpainted (original black) sections of the fascias. A bit time-consuming to get the excess out from the corners of the embossed lettering in the rear fascia. But worth it.

[gulwng3]

I recently painted my mirrors, door vents, and license plate bezel with SEM trim black and they look fantastic! Use a scouring pad that they sell at most automotive paint stores to scuff up the plastic (but lightly so as not to remove the texture), then apply adhesion promotor and SEM trim black. I'm doing the engine cover, sunshade, rubber bumper strips, and windshield trim next. The bumpers and grill are not suppose to be painted as I understand.

Andy

[Rich_NYS]

I recently painted my mirrors, door vents, and license plate bezel with SEM trim black and they look fantastic! Use a scouring pad that they sell at most automotive paint stores to scuff up the plastic (but lightly so as not to remove the texture), then apply adhesion promotor and SEM trim black. I'm doing the engine cover, sunshade, rubber bumper strips, and windshield trim next. The bumpers and grill are not suppose to be painted as I understand.

Andy

Did you previously use any products on the plastic? If so, how long ago?

[Rich_NYS]

I like the sounds of what everyone here uses, but don't want any issues w/a future paint job.

Seems like a pretty safe bet to use the SS cleaner Josh mentioned; I need to get some SS cleaner anyway, so I can't go wrong by giving it a try with the same stuff. If it's not gangster enough, I'll go for the other stuff mentioned... :cool: :gunfire:

Thanks everybody!

[Rich_NYS]

I use 303 Aerospace Protectant, when I treat the vinyl with the same product, roughly twice every year. Good stuff.

http://www.303products.com/303r-aerospace-protectant-32oz.html

Been hearing about this. Sorry for the continued interrogation, but do you know if I can use this prior to re-dyeing the interior?

(17.15 for 32oz on Amazon...)

[NightFlyer]

Been hearing about this. Sorry for the continued interrogation, but do you know if I can use this prior to re-dyeing the interior?

(17.15 for 32oz on Amazon...)

Yeah, you'll always want to shop around for the best price. I usually purchase all of my car care products (except the Deep Gloss) from AutoGeek when they have a good sale and coupon offerings.

As for 303 use prior to re-dying, I honestly don't see why not, as 1) it's not a silicon based product, and 2) you'll need to properly prep the pieces for re-dying anyhow, which will remove any layer of 303. Vinyl doesn't absorb, thus the only thing you have to worry about is bonding, and the permanency of the bond. The 303 is pretty easily removed with any decent cleaner.

[David T]

Yeah, you'll always want to shop around for the best price. I usually purchase all of my car care products (except the Deep Gloss) from AutoGeek when they have a good sale and coupon offerings.

As for 303 use prior to re-dying, I honestly don't see why not, as 1) it's not a silicon based product, and 2) you'll need to properly prep the pieces for re-dying anyhow, which will remove any layer of 303. Vinyl doesn't absorb, thus the only thing you have to worry about is bonding, and the permanency of the bond. The 303 is pretty easily removed with any decent cleaner.

For the door seals I spray a little silicone spray onto a rag and wipe them with it. Not for the color but so they slide and don;t tear when the doors open and close. Also do the door where it rubs and slides more than squeezes the seals, especially along the front.

[gulwng3]

Did you previously use any products on the plastic? If so, how long ago?

I'm sure Armour All and other over-the-counter stuff were used on these plastic pieces in the past. Also, since my car is painted red, there was wax residue along the edges.

Of course I forgot to mention the most important step just before painting - use a good wax and grease remover! Twice!

Maybe others will chime in here, but with proper prep I believe the paint will last a very long time on the textured plastic trim pieces.

Andy

[TTait]

Side vents on second car are all scratched up. They look awful. I would replace them if it was reasonably easy to get them out. Any way to restore texture? I guess that goes for side view mirrors too...

[Michael]

Side vents on second car are all scratched up. They look awful. I would replace them if it was reasonably easy to get them out. Any way to restore texture? I guess that goes for side view mirrors too...

SEM makes a texture coating that I have used a lot to do my scale model bases, or at work to re-texture plastic bumpers after I have repaired them. It takes a bit of practice to get the texture patterns down, fine vs. coarse, etc. Now for the bad part...I have never got to the end of a can. The top opening of the can (no matter how much you unclog the spray tip) will clog up and become useless. So it's best do as much as you can as quick as you can because if the can(once used) sits around for more than a few days, it's junk.

There may be other texture coatings in spray can that work, but SEM, even with the crap can, is really good stuff. As a bonus it's black in color so it doesn't take much trim black to paint over it. It dries hard and sticks well, and it's not rubberized. Be careful with other texture coatings as a lot of them are rubberized or flexible and may not hold up long term.

Just practice a lot(the can is big so you will have a lot to spare) and know what distances are needed to get your texture correct. If you get it too coarse, it will catch every piece of lint that comes in contact with it. Also don't try and paint with it, you want texture, nothing else. The final coat of color is done with SEM Trim Black, which also seals and protects the texture coating.

These two pictures are of bases that I made for my models. I used SEM texture and trim black on them. One shows a heavy coarse texture and the other one I decided to go with a finer texture. Same stuff, the only difference is the distance from the spray tip and the duration of the pass.

[TTait]

SEM makes a texture coating that I have used a lot to do my scale model bases, or at work to re-texture plastic bumpers after I have repaired them. It takes a bit of practice to get the texture patterns down, fine vs. coarse, etc. Now for the bad part...I have never got to the end of a can. The top opening of the can (no matter how much you unclog the spray tip) will clog up and become useless. So it's best do as much as you can as quick as you can because if the can(once used) sits around for more than a few days, it's junk.

There may be other texture coatings in spray can that work, but SEM, even with the crap can, is really good stuff. As a bonus it's black in color so it doesn't take much trim black to paint over it. It dries hard and sticks well, and it's not rubberized. Be careful with other texture coatings as a lot of them are rubberized or flexible and may not hold up long term.

Just practice a lot(the can is big so you will have a lot to spare) and know what distances are needed to get your texture correct. If you get it too coarse, it will catch every piece of lint that comes in contact with it. Also don't try and paint with it, you want texture, nothing else. The final coat of color is done with SEM Trim Black, which also seals and protects the texture coating.

These two pictures are of bases that I made for my models. I used SEM texture and trim black on them. One shows a heavy coarse texture and the other one I decided to go with a finer texture. Same stuff, the only difference is the distance from the spray tip and the duration of the pass.

That's encouraging in general, but I do need to say that given the work you do and the love and detail you put into your work - its fantastic news when it comes from you.

Thank you!

[Rich_NYS]

I'm doing the engine cover, sunshade, rubber bumper strips, and windshield trim next.
Andy

Is it the same paint for the windshield trim? My windshield trim seems to have a lustre, the rest of the black looks flat. Maybe that's because it needs to be re-painted (I have nothing to compare against.)

[Michael]

Is it the same paint for the windshield trim? My windshield trim seems to have a lustre, the rest of the black looks flat. Maybe that's because it needs to be re-painted (I have nothing to compare against.)

I can say it's the same color, but I not the same paint. I touched up a rock chip on my trim a few years ago and it surprised me that there was no primer under the black paint...just bare aluminum. If you are going to strip and repair the the windshield trim, you may want to look into an appropriate primer. I would not trust SEM trim black to stick long term on bare metal. SEM does make primers for all of tbeir paints, even etching primer. If you are not stripping the paint that and just recoating, a light sand with 600 should suffice.

[gulwng3]

Is it the same paint for the windshield trim? My windshield trim seems to have a lustre, the rest of the black looks flat. Maybe that's because it needs to be re-painted (I have nothing to compare against.)

I'm using SEM trim black for all outside trim including windshield trim. I'm just scuffing up the old paint on the windshield trim, not taking it down to bare metal. I use a high temp engine paint for anything inside the engine compartment. Note: I'm not a purist though when it comes to color matching and like to keep things simple.

Andy

[TTait]

SEM makes a texture coating that I have used a lot

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Wonderful product.

Started with SEM plastic prep, followed by texture coat, then trim black. Did both mirrors, and all 4 vents.

They look great.

Cleaned the top of the texture coat can and the tip with brake cleaner - even if I throw out half that can it was more than worth the money - saved me hundreds in new parts.

[TTait]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Wonderful product.

Started with SEM plastic prep, followed by texture coat, then trim black. Did both mirrors, and all 4 vents.

They look great.

Cleaned the top of the texture coat can and the tip with brake cleaner - even if I throw out half that can it was more than worth the money - saved me hundreds in new parts.

All these parts were badly scratched up - I was ready to replace them.

25743257442574525746

[Timeless]

Recently tried Car Guys plastic restorer on the D. I have used this on the following parts with great results:
- front & rear fascias
- side body vents
- test spot on door jambs
Applied Saturday and let sit overnight in the garage before car show Sunday morning. Even with heavy rain coming home it's holding up very well. I will continue to use on fascias and vents.

https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Plastic-Restorer-Ultimate-Solution/dp/B071FRWWRF/ref=sr_1_13?crid=14SYSXZM256VD&keywords=plastic+polish&qid=1658157811&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=plastic+pol%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-13