3D Printing and Your Delorean

[skill]

Daily, I read about how 3D Printing has entered into areas from the medical parts to automotive parts. I thought it be appropriate, if not already, to be begin this thread on 3D printing. I was wondering if by any chance anyone out there has given it any thought about what we as a community could create with such an amazing piece of technology for our cars [DeLorean]? I understand these printers have a "magical box size limitation" and on what parts you could create... has anyone thought about what parts, if any, you could replicate or "mod" and or "bring to life" to enhance or introduce the DMC community? Granted, the 3D printers, at this time, is a pretty penny device and cost ($), but of course as we know - prices on most technology do come down in time and become, I guess, reasonable for us to buy. If you ever become an owner of such an amazing device, what would you create for your DeLorean??? Hopefully, this thread can be the source for them .CAD (or whatever format they come in~lol) files if it ever-comes to that point! :) Feel free to chime in...

[Kane]

Wake me when they can print metal

[TTait]

Wake me when they can print metal

Kane... Kane.... KANE! WAKE UP!

The year is now (dun dun DUN) 2014. You have been sleeping for nearly an hour! I know - its hard to believe.

A lot has changed my friend - we can now print 3D metal objects. I thought you would like Stainless Steel - Yep. Can do.

The resulting alloys are not as nice as traditional methods - but it exists.

http://gpiprototype.com/services/dmls-direct-metal-laser-sintering.html

google sintering - enjoy.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Wouldn't that be nice, 3d printed Binnacles. I know there are reproduction binnacles overseas but $340 plus international shipping is just way too much for my wallet.

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?455-Possible-binnacle-reproduction&highlight=Binnacle

Just food for thought...

[DrJeff]

has anyone thought about what parts, if any, you could replicate or "mod" and or "bring to life" to enhance or introduce the DMC community?

I've created 3 parts using 3D printing. A 3rd brake light that sits between the license plate lights, a custom bezel for the switches in my custom center console, the SS DMC letters for the steering wheel center pad, and four connectors that connect the re-routed AC to the original AC vents note mounted in the knee pads. The SS lettering looks okay, but it doesn't look like plate stainless which has been grained, it does however have the right color.

In all cases I was creating parts that don't already exist. I did try to create a replacement holder for the market lights, but with the NOS version at $10 a pop it wasn't worth it.

The cost of 3D printing is in the trial and error process of getting the design right and getting the material choice right. If you had a proven 3D file and knew exactly what material to print with you captions have a part at a reasonable cost. Otherwise be ready to print 5-10 copies. I used a printing service rather than have my own printer - principally since I wanted to trial multiple materials.

Parts I have thought about are the escutcheon, the blank for the escutcheon on the passenger side. But since I don't need these I haven't done the 3d model

[silverlux]

I've created 3 parts using 3D printing. A 3rd brake light that sits between the license plate lights, a custom bezel for the switches in my custom center console, the SS DMC letters for the steering wheel center pad, and four connectors that connect the re-routed AC to the original AC vents note mounted in the knee pads. The SS lettering looks okay, but it doesn't look like plate stainless which has been grained, it does however have the right color.

In all cases I was creating parts that don't already exist. I did try to create a replacement holder for the market lights, but with the NOS version at $10 a pop it wasn't worth it.

The cost of 3D printing is in the trial and error process of getting the design right and getting the material choice right. If you had a proven 3D file and knew exactly what material to print with you captions have a part at a reasonable cost. Otherwise be ready to print 5-10 copies. I used a printing service rather than have my own printer - principally since I wanted to trial multiple materials.

Parts I have thought about are the escutcheon, the blank for the escutcheon on the passenger side. But since I don't need these I haven't done the 3d model

3D printing is cool. I step closer to physical objects sending not using actual courier. Like if sender and receiver has 3d printer they could send to each other physical item virtually.
Like teleporting stuff :D Metals being printed, plastic being printed. Soon everything else will be printed from pure air :D
My Sci-Fi Saturday :D
In real life I think biggest problem to replicate parts are measurements, unless if you don't have cool scanner that scans object internally and externally for your 3D printer.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Dr. Jeff, can you post pics of the mods you have on our list?

[DrJeff]

Dr. Jeff, can you post pics of the mods you have on our list?

I can but it'll have to wait until March when I get home. I'm traveling in the Far East on business.

[DMCMW Dave]

Parts I have thought about are the escutcheon, the blank for the escutcheon on the passenger side. But since I don't need these I haven't done the 3d model

How does the substance used for printing hold up to extreme heat? Car interiors get pretty hot.

[kenny]

We have a makerbot replicator printer arriving at work next week so I will let you know how it works.
The detail they can print is impressive.
They are accurate to 0.1mm.

[Jonathan]

has anyone thought about what parts, if any, you could replicate or "mod" and or "bring to life" to enhance or introduce the DMC community?

Would 3D printing technology allow you to create a replacement ignition or door key? I don't ask because I need one nor do we lack places to get them done with either the code or a good photo, it's more a question of could it be done by someone you don't want to have your key?

The newer cars out there with microchips in them seem to be safe, but if you could get a close enough photo to make your printed key accurate enough to be useable, it could open up a can of worms at some point. Cameras are getting really good at resolutions and it's not that far fetched to think of a tow truck driver or shop mechanic quickly getting an image of your key, making note of where you live, and then having his buddy come get your car when you're not home. Maybe a little "conspiracy theory" to some extent, but we seem to see many great new technologies get quickly used for the powers of evil and not good.

[DrJeff]

How does the substance used for printing hold up to extreme heat? Car interiors get pretty hot.

The AC vent connectors were the thinnest plastic I used at 1mm. I selected a material for its stiffness. They've been in the car over a year and zero signs of deformation. I was very surprised how strong the material was, but they do have a sandpaper like texture , not the smooth plastic texture that you might be used to with molded plastic. For my rear brake light unit I painted it to give it the smooth black look. It took a few coats as it soaked up the paint, but it did work.

[skill]

The AC vent connectors were the thinnest plastic I used at 1mm. I selected a material for its stiffness. They've been in the car over a year and zero signs of deformation. I was very surprised how strong the material was, but they do have a sandpaper like texture , not the smooth plastic texture that you might be used to with molded plastic. For my rear brake light unit I painted it to give it the smooth black look. It took a few coats as it soaked up the paint, but it did work.

DrJeff, If you don't mind me asking, what brand 3d printer you using?

[RIUM+]

I have access to multiple 3D printers & knock something out every so often, and my partner-in-crime used to work at a 3D printing company. I still haven't been able to think of any situation where I wanted to 3D print something for my DeLorean, but I'd jump at it if I had a need! When it comes to the final part quality/strength, there's the printing done by home printers, the printing done by professional services, and then there's the printing done by ultra-high-end companies entirely in-house on custom machines which they don't share to maintain their competitive advantage.

At the ultra-high-end, literally anything is possible with today's technology (especially in a combined additive/subtractive machine, like this multi-axis laser sintering/CNC routing combo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9IdZ2pI5dA)). Material, surface finish, strength properties, you name it - you can entirely replicate anything you so desire. Making a key would be absolutely no problem, but for something like that it's a much better idea to just grab a key blank & cut it to match the photo you took. As an example of something that's financially viable, SpaceX are 3D printing parts for their rocket engines out of pure Titanium & Inconel, because they found 3D printing those complex curves was cheaper, quicker & had a higher end quality than traditional manufacturing techniques. They can literally create an entire rocket from raw materials in a matter of weeks. Just don't expect to get a hold of this kind of technology soon.. not without coughing up 6-7 digits of money and/or hiring a team of engineers to build a custom machine for you!

Mid-end is companies that purchased decent ($20k) machines then print the parts for you. Shapeways (http://www.shapeways.com/) is one such example. You can get all sorts of materials from plastics, rubber-like compounds, metals, acrylics, ceramics, glasses and transparent resins. These are fantastic because you get perfect quality every time & have such a wide selection of materials at such high quality, but kinda pricey. They've gotta make money somehow.

Low-end is the home-based machines like a Makerbot or RepRap. You're on your own to constantly maintain, repair & calibrate these machines. Accuracy isn't anywhere near as good as Shapeways, but you can get <0.1mm of accuracy if you keep everything in perfect running order. If you're using ABS or PLA you can smooth out the surface chemically, to a completely polished glossy surface look if you wanted. One advantage to being physically in front of the printer is that you get to have the print the moment it's finished (or you can even spot an error half-way through printing to cancel & modify your job), but the biggest advantage is the cost. Depending on the size of your object, filament will cost you $1-$2 per print. At that price you can go nuts, printing ALL the things! :D

PLA has a glass transition temperature around 60'C, which will easily be exceeded inside a hot car... It's biodegradable and won't do so well if you were using it outside on a car either. I wouldn't recommend PLA for anything on our cars, unless it's a temporary thing designed to last a few years at most (or you don't mind replacing it every few years). Standard ABS degrades under UV light, but you can buy UV-stabilised filament (or you can just paint your finished product). That'd be my personal recommendation for car-related prints.

[Lou and "Boo"]

How much would a 3d printed binnacle cost to make?

[Timebender]

If you sent a model to shapeways.com probably $500 or so. You can get started on a model by using the 123D catch app which then gets you a 3d object file, then you can edit it, and use one of Autodesk's services (there are a few including shapeways).

[LordFly]

I've got a Ecksbot RepRap, and I've made a few parts for my car. Most recently, a St. Patricks Day front emblem :)

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I've also done a replacement "thumb pad" for the power mirror switch (mine was missing), and a cell phone holder that replaces the ash tray.

[Jonathan]

Nice job on the DeLorean license "platers" Devon! Perfect fit!

(...and this plate is much more appropriate for me on the DeLorean.)

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[Lenny]

How much would a 3d printed binnacle cost to make?

+1

I think this is the one thing everyone could benefit from.

[Farrar]

- license plate surround
- headlight buckets
- radio bracket
- rub strips
... plus loads of stuff that would be custom to my car only. ;)

[Timebender]

I'd like to get a 3d print of the little arms that go in the mirrors that eventually give out vs. spending $200 some odd dollars on a "new" mirror.

[skill]

I'd like to get a 3d print of the little arms that go in the mirrors that eventually give out vs. spending $200 some odd dollars on a "new" mirror.

That's what I'm talking about! No need to dish out so much money when you only need the small item to make it work. How's Jamul?!

[Timebender]

Nice and cool these past few days actually. Btw, are you pretty familiar with the wiring, namely the doors and lights? The OO wired it so the passenger door only comes on when the driver door is poem, and it was working like that when it went to Danny's- so I be that car back and now the passenger door doesn't light up. There are some black wires on the driver side that look like they were spliced together - well twisted together and are not now, but connecting them back together does nothing.

[Farrar]

The OO wired it so the passenger door only comes on when the driver door is poem, and it was working like that when it went to Danny's- so I be that car back and now the passenger door doesn't light up. There are some black wires on the driver side that look like they were spliced together

Maybe one of the diodes died and the PO decided not to replace the diode, instead just eliminating it?

[Timebender]

Maybe one of the diodes died and the PO decided not to replace the diode, instead just eliminating it?

Could be. I have to figure out what recently happened between having the car, sending it to Danny's, and then getting it back not working. They replaced the hood cable, and I'm guessing while in there they knocked the wiring loose. Just need to figure out what goes where so I can get power back to the passenger door - I'd like to get a switch back over there as well and have it working independently too.

[Riley88]

I'd check the diodes

[Timebender]

Are those up front of the center console or back where the relays and fuses are?

[Timebender]

I was at Comic Con last night and briefly got to see these, as we got there late and only had a little time to look around:

Very high-resolution printing and at $999 not a bad price.

http://cubify.com/cube

https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/cubify/website/resources/images/cube/features_3d_printing_and_you.jpg

[Farrar]

Are those up front of the center console or back where the relays and fuses are?

The diodes are at the front of the center console on the left side. May be covered by a flap of carpet, or tucked behind the console itself. Sorry, I can't remember exactly as it's been a long time since I messed with those on my car.

[Timebender]

Thanks Farrar.

[Jason]

I needed a new dash end cap (part# 105737) and decided to try making one.

The model...
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3d printed in ABS...
4519145192

Glue on vinyl fabric...
45193

Add the switches...
45194

And install in the car...
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[DMC-81]

^ Man, that's impressive! Great job! :thumbup:

[Dangermouse]

Indeed, that is very original looking.

[ccurzio]

Damn that's slick. Well done.

[DMC VIN 6639]

I printed a bracket to hold my aftermarket shift boot I bought off eBay. I have a plate on top and bottom, with 4 screws sandwiching the boot in between. I would take it apart and show the design better but it was no fun getting it together.

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[David T]

My son has a Makerbot and has been printing a lot of stuff. PLA is no good in heat. We made some parts for the engine compartment but they melted. He is in the process of designing and making a lot of other parts but PLA is not all that great a materiel for automotive applications. 3D printing is still in it's infancy and there is a LOT of potential, the field is changing every day with more and more materials and ways to make parts. Being an "additive" machining process you can do things traditional subtractive processes cannot do. For now it can produce short runs of parts less expensively if you don't have to consider the cost of the programming. If PLA (or any other soft materiel) is not suitable you can always use the printed part as a mold to make one out of a different materiel. In the near future you will be able to have repair parts made locally when something breaks instead of having a warehouse stock and ship them to you. Or the warehouse won't stock stuff, they will just print it and ship it when they need it. This technology promises to change the way we buy things in the near future. It will eventually allow us to keep old technology going by being able to make one of parts on demand quickly and cheaply. Just like when a product is made and the manufacturer creates documentation, they will include parts files so the parts can be reproduced in 3D printers when they break.

[Mario]

Yeah, PLA is not suitable for automotive applications (even inside the cabin - on a hot day, PLA will easily deform). But most hobby 3D printers (such as the Makerbot 2X) can print ABS, which is much better for higher temperatures. I've used 3D-printed ABS parts in the cabin of my car for years now, they've been great. Some small PLA parts in the same car have already softened and deformed from the heat of a summer day.

[Drive Stainless]

I needed a new dash end cap (part# 105737) and decided to try making one.

The model...
45188

3d printed in ABS...
4519145192

Glue on vinyl fabric...
45193

Add the switches...
45194

And install in the car...
45195

Care to discuss the cost of this print job?

[Peripatetic]

45544
The logo on my automatic shifter fell off, it looks like it was glued on by the PO so because I didn't have enough open half finished projects I added another. It's the wheels with the flux capacitor in the center. It was made with a 3D printer and I plan on spray painting it black and seeing how it handles heat. Most likely I'll end up just making it in SS, but that's for future me to do.

[Jason]

Care to discuss the cost of this print job?

What do you mean? Material cost? I probably used between $10 and $20 worth of plastic and fabric, but a good bit of that was because it took me a few tries to get things right.

[Drive Stainless]

What do you mean? Material cost? I probably used between $10 and $20 worth of plastic and fabric, but a good bit of that was because it took me a few tries to get things right.

That's amazing! Was this your own printer or a third party?

[Jason]

That's amazing! Was this your own printer or a third party?

It's a LulzBot TAZ 5 that I have at home.

[Jason]

I 3D printed some custom ductwork so that I could route the center A/C vents to the sides of the center console to make room for a 2 din head unit while still retaining correct control of the center vents via the mode switch. This did require cutting down the raised sections on the heater box where the rubber boot for the center vents attach to on 5mm high.

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[81dmc]

I 3D printed some custom ductwork so that I could route the center A/C vents to the sides of the center console to make room for a 2 din head unit while still retaining correct control of the center vents via the mode switch. This did require cutting down the raised sections on the heater box where the rubber boot for the center vents attach to on 5mm high.

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58280

Very nice!

Wish I could've done this, but I completed my double din setup before 3d printers got cheap...