Steering Column Bushing

[Rich_NYS]

I think I somehow screwed up something when I replaced my steering column bushing. Last night I could feel the column clunking around. I think the bushing came out, or maybe I damaged it during installation and it broke. I recall I had it off-center on my first attempt and it ended up looking a bit roughed-up, or maybe I just installed it wrong.

If I didn't properly install something this simple, I might actually be the most inept DeLorean owner here...lol!

This afternoon when it warms up to 32 F, I'll get a closer look. In the meantime, does anything in these pics look out of place?

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[Jeff K]

I found with both of my Ds (one a texas rebuild) the hole the bushing went into was reamed out. My bushing was never in tight, nor could it be. I screwed a fender washing in as a fix. (post is on here somewhere)

Not sure about yours, mine you could grab and shake side to side with a fresh bushing.

[SS Spoiler]

Check the collapsable steering column cage to see if its broken. Happened to me and I was able to weld it together in the car.

[Rich_NYS]

I see the "inside" part of the bushing still intact, and think I see the "outside" part still intact.

I must've damged it somehow during installation.

[Rich_NYS]

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[kings1527]

Nothing looks obviously out of place to me, Rich. It's possible that the hole was reamed out for being without a bushing for too long but that's a relatively easy fix, too. Mine snapped into place HARD when I got it in there so I didn't have that problem. But all the way around it looks like it's in there right to me.

Is it just the column sliding or is the bushing sliding around, too?

[Rich_NYS]

Nothing looks obviously out of place to me, Rich. It's possible that the hole was reamed out for being without a bushing for too long but that's a relatively easy fix, too. Mine snapped into place HARD when I got it in there so I didn't have that problem. But all the way around it looks like it's in there right to me.

Is it just the column sliding or is the bushing sliding around, too?

Hey Alex,

The column & bushing are sliding around together. I think the bushing is split into two pieces, one on each side of the firewall.

These pics are from when I replaced it about a month ago:

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If those look ok to you, that makes me believe I had it seated properly. It also felt really good with no abnormal movement.


Here's what the hole looked like at that time:

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These are from today, I took pics as I moved the columnn around:

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Thinking back, I have an idea what might've happened. The night before I went to the hardware store for a bolt & large washer, I tried popping it in using a long rod & hammer. I'm thinking I damaged it and split apart after a little use.

I'll change it within a few weeks and should be able to confirm.

[kings1527]

After looking at the pics, I can see what you're saying about the movement. It looks like you have a lot of play in there. As far as installation goes, I did the exact same thing as you. I used a long extension, a socket that fit flush on the bushing itself, and a small sledge. But my bushing was one of Toby's Delrin bushings and mine might've withstood the beating a little better. If you have to spring for another, you might want to consider that one. I like the idea of 'never' having to do something again once it's in place. When I put it in using my method, I used gentle yet very firm taps until it was seated flush along with grease on the bushing like you did.

And just another thought, I think I've heard of some people splicing bushings and getting it in place without disconnecting the intermediate shaft from the steering column and having good results. That would tell me that even with a bushing that's technically fractured, it wouldn't slide around like yours is.

Probably best just to pull the bushing again and take a look. If it looks good, the hole might've been reamed out over time.

[Rich_NYS]

I'll get a good look at the hole when I replace the bushing. I just found your method on your blog, seems like it worked good for you. It was pretty cold when I did it, so I suppose that could've contributed to a problem.

How do you order the bushing you mention, and what's different about it?

[kings1527]

It's off of DPNW's website and is one of the more popular items you can order from them.

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=101994DP

I'm not really sure what Delrin is but it appears to be a super strong resin that was developed by Dupont. It has a reputation in the community as being arguably the best column bushing for the car but a bear to install. My method made installation pretty simple.

[delornut]

Make sure you have the ujoints clamped down tight enough. If there is any play at all it'll feel like a worn bushing and rattle when driving. The crimping of the ujoint to the steering shaft and steering column is an integral part of the system. Remember you're not only tightening the bolts but squeezing the part onto the shafts.

Bruce Benson

[Flicky]

Any news on how things are now? There are so many treads on 'steering shake', but they never say if anything changed.

I have a shake in my steering and after going over everything in the front, I think I'm going to replace the steering bushing first. My shake comes in at 55mph and is most upsetting. I'm going to take the front wheels down for a balance and make sure they are not bent too.

[Rich_NYS]

Any news on how things are now? There are so many treads on 'steering shake', but they never say if anything changed.

I have a shake in my steering and after going over everything in the front, I think I'm going to replace the steering bushing first. My shake comes in at 55mph and is most upsetting. I'm going to take the front wheels down for a balance and make sure they are not bent too.

I replaced the bushing and everything is fine as far as that goes, but your issue doesn't sound like a steering column bushing if it comes in at 55mph.

If the bushing is steering column bushing is broken, missing...etc, you basically have a shaft that's too small for the hole it's in so there's a lot of "play" that gives you a distinct "clunking" noise. Post #5 in this thread illustrates it pretty good.

For your shake at 55, that seems more like a tire issue to me....could be as simple as being out of balance so I think you're on the right track. It's pretty relevant that you don't have the problem until highway speed....I'm sure someone else will respond to help with that.

I have a problem with my tires also, but it's at all speeds. I think the tires are bad from being on the car in storage for 11 years. I'm able to see the problem if I jack up the car, spin the wheels, and watch the tread on the bottom of the tire where it meets the road.

Let us know how it goes....

[DMCMW Dave]

This car is EXTREMELY sensitive to bad tires. Bad being out of balance, out of round (flat spotted), bent wheels, etc.

This is one of the benefits of very direct "sports car" steering (no power assist, no damper, and no "rag joint" in the column). The only damping from the road to your hands is the fact that the rack is mounted to the fame in rubber. And that's not much.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Any news on how things are now? There are so many treads on 'steering shake', but they never say if anything changed.

I have a shake in my steering and after going over everything in the front, I think I'm going to replace the steering bushing first. My shake comes in at 55mph and is most upsetting. I'm going to take the front wheels down for a balance and make sure they are not bent too.

I had the same problem which got fixed when I installed new LCAs and poly bushings up front. Don't know which fixed it, the bushings or LCAs

[Victor]

It's a bit hard to see on the picture, but maybe the shaft has not been push enough through the bushing and could be loose because the end-shaft where the u-joint attached to the shaft is smaller at the end, you may experience that looseness because of that, maybe.
The collapsing shaft has to be clamp in the expand position all the way out, before you push the steering wheel through the bushing.
I done it twice on two different D, and I know it could be a pain to do that kind of fixing, because of the tighness of the space to work around. (sorry for my english)

Be patient.:thumbup:

[Flicky]

My problem was just wheel related. Balanced the front and all the shake in the steering was gone. Still had a little bumping at 65mph and did the back wheels today. For balancing I do recommend shops with a Hunter GSP9700 machine (most Firestones).

Thanks for the help.

[David T]

My problem was just wheel related. Balanced the front and all the shake in the steering was gone. Still had a little bumping at 65mph and did the back wheels today. For balancing I do recommend shops with a Hunter GSP9700 machine (most Firestones).

Thanks for the help.

Most of the time you can find the problem on any dynamic balancer. The Hunter GSP0700 is a road force balancer. It pushes against the tire and deforms it as it would be deformed when mounted on a car and rolling. It can find when a tire is not symetrical under load. Rather sophisticated and most shops do not have them yet because they are expensive and a lot more tires would not pass (even many new ones!). I agree it is good to find a hard to find tire problem and that machine will. Air pressure is VERY important when using a road force balancer.

[Chris 16409]

I'm in the process of reacing my steering column bushing. Since I've owned my car, I've had this brass steering column bushing (see pictures). As you can see the round hole is now oval. I had up and down play in the wheel. It wasn't that bad until the bushing actually popped out! I figured it was now time to change it. So I'm installing one of DPNW's Delrin plastic bushings. The bushing is now in place, but now I'm having trouble extending the inner steering shaft out long enough so it goes through the bushing. Is there a way to do it without removing the whole column? Thanks.

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[kings1527]

I'm in the process of reacing my steering column bushing. Since I've owned my car, I've had this brass steering column bushing (see pictures). As you can see the round hole is now oval. I had up and down play in the wheel. It wasn't that bad until the bushing actually popped out! I figured it was now time to change it. So I'm installing one of DPNW's Delrin plastic bushings. The bushing is now in place, but now I'm having trouble extending the inner steering shaft out long enough so it goes through the bushing. Is there a way to do it without removing the whole column? Thanks.

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I had the same exact problem.

The inner steering shaft pulls out by itself. Grip the end of it and extend it as far as it'll go. Then, I took needlenose vice grips and clamped the shaft through the wire cage to hold it there. Maybe use a little silicone spray on the shaft and the inside of the new bushing to help facilitate the installation.

[David T]

The shaft goes through the bushing at a slight angle. It may help to file the inner hole of the bushing SLIGHLTY so it is easier to get the shaft in. Make sure the steering shaft is fully extended so you can put the bolt into the coupling.

[Gary]

Same problem as well. the steering shaft slides on itself. I had to loosen the bolts at the top of the steering column and loosen the tilt knob to get enough movement to get that shaft through the bushing. I have been upside down and under my dash more times than I would like to admit. Every time I work my self back out of that dark hole and regain my balance I think to myself "that's the last time I'll be under there!"

Gary

[alexwolf1216]

Same here. It took two of us to get it through there. We used the needle nose vice grip trick, but it was hard to get a good grip through the honeycomb.

[Lwanmtr]

Im working on replacing my bushing (or rather putting one in where none was)..and I have little problem..

Im following the instructions Toby at DMCNW gave me...

Is it important to remove the access panel in the luggage compartment? some of the screws are either jammed or stripped and wont come
out (which I'll need to sort at some time)..even with it off, I dont think I could reach down from there to get to anything with the car up on
stands.

Once I get the ujoint off, how much pressure is needed to slide the steering column up to get the new bushing in?

Yeah, prolly silly questions..but I'm new to the car and not exactly a mechanic...hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

Im working on replacing my bushing (or rather putting one in where none was)..and I have little problem..

Im following the instructions Toby at DMCNW gave me...

Is it important to remove the access panel in the luggage compartment? some of the screws are either jammed or stripped and wont come
out (which I'll need to sort at some time)..even with it off, I dont think I could reach down from there to get to anything with the car up on
stands.

Once I get the ujoint off, how much pressure is needed to slide the steering column up to get the new bushing in?

Yeah, prolly silly questions..but I'm new to the car and not exactly a mechanic...hehe.

Having the access panel out definitely helps, but I'm sure it can be done without removing it. I had a few stuck screws too, I used vice grips above and/or below along with penetrating spray to remove them. On the car shown in the pics, I used the extra access to spray & heat the lower joint (hopefully you won't need to do that.)

Hard to say how much pressure is needed to slide the column. I did it myself, but Alex mentioned needing two guys.

I sold the car in this thread and bought another that needs the bushing replaced, so I'll be at it again and will update.

Hope this helps....enjoy!

[airfireman1]

Mine had been missing for so long the the hole it was supposed to push into was too big so I machined a new metal bushing for the new one to fit into and now all is good, absolutely no play in the steering.

[Lwanmtr]

Gonna have a go at it tomorrow. I can see both ends of the rod..but there's another nut or something I'm not sure where it's at. Couldnt get to it today, spent
a while looking (unsuccsefully) for a socket that fell down the hole over the brake fluid thing and I think went somewhere into the frame :/
Also realized I didnt have grease, so I gotta go get some...hehe.

[DMC5180]

It's been a while since I had that cover off. I seem to recall you can access the steering shaft with the tire removed.

As far as sliding the shaft, it all depends on how much rust your dealing with. You will likely need to soak it with a penetrant and still need to wedge a big flat blade screwdriver in pinch bolt slit to help release it.

[SS Spoiler]

If you disconnect the steering be absolutely sure you reseat the shaft so
the pinch bolt goes through the groove to hold it in place. Suddenly losing
steering at 70 miles an hour is not fun.......ask me how I know!

[Lwanmtr]

Before I get going on it...where is the pinch bolt located?

[Bitsyncmaster]

If you disconnect the steering be absolutely sure you reseat the shaft so
the pinch bolt goes through the groove to hold it in place. Suddenly losing
steering at 70 miles an hour is not fun.......ask me how I know!

I have seen that happen at a tech session (It was done before the session). Lucky he lost steering just backing the car up at the session.

[Ron]

And just another thought, I think I've heard of some people splicing bushings and getting it in place without disconnecting the intermediate shaft from the steering column and having good results.+1

I thought someone still sold the split style bushing, but I couldn't find them. You don't have to take anything loose...Just remove the old one, spray the new one down with silicon and walk it around filling the grove as far as you can by hand/screwdriver, then drive the rest in with a large drift-punch. I've helped a couple of people who just cut one side with a thin saw blade to make one. No problems with them either...
I haven't seen one too hard for this, but I'd guess some are...

[Lwanmtr]

Got the bolts off both ends, loosened the split...so much rust around it, gotta wait a while for pb blaster to loosen things up so I can actually
slide the steering out.

[DMC5180]

Got the bolts off both ends, loosened the split...so much rust around it, gotta wait a while for pb blaster to loosen things up so I can actually
slide the steering out.

It also helps to have a small pry bar or heavy screwdriver to wedge between the steering rack pinion shaft retaining cap or bolt head and the lower u-joint, in order to pry the joint off the steering rack while simultaneously sliding up the upper shaft.


Dennis

[Lwanmtr]

Not sure I follow you. Tried prying at the upper end..no go. Didnt try prying at the other end. Tried for a but more. put some more blaster
on all the connections. Gonna try again tomorrow, see if it got in far enough.

[DMC5180]

How many bolts have you removed?

Were you able to get the large access cover removed over the brake master?

[Lwanmtr]

I removed two bolts, one at each end...and loosened the one in the middle

[Rich_NYS]

I removed two bolts, one at each end...and loosened the one in the middle

What bolt in the middle are you referring to?

Would you post a few pics?

[DMC5180]

I removed two bolts, one at each end...and loosened the one in the middle

Perfect. What I was referring to earlier, is that you will have better luck removing the lower u-joint before the upper. If the slider joint is really crusty you may need to apply heat. Getting that joint slide can be a real bear. You will need to apply leverage to help move the lower joint upward.

[DMC5180]

What bolt in the middle are you referring to?

Would you post a few pics?

The middle bolt is the slide joint pinch bolt.

[Rich_NYS]

The middle bolt is the slide joint pinch bolt.


Oh....OK. He's removing it from the steering rack, I forgot about that. I left the lower joint connected when I did mine.

[Lwanmtr]

Heres a few pics...lower, middle and upper ...sorry, its a pain to get the cam in there perfectly..hehe.

Ahh, Ill try going from the bottom tomorrow. I dont have a torch to heat it upm unfortunately.

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[DMC5180]

judging from the photos, you were not able to get the upper access panel removed?

[Lwanmtr]

Nah, that'll be something for another time..2 screws just spin and 3 are seized and stripped (apparently po had trouble too)

[Rich_NYS]

I'm pretty sure you need to remove the bolt from the hole, there's a recess in the shaft that accepts the bolt and will keep things together if the bolt is still in the hole. (**Edit: You can see what the splined shaft[s] look like in post #7 of this thread.)

Your splines look cleaner than mine were. I heated my lower joint a bit with a heat gun, then gently tapped a flat chisel into the slot (just a bit.) After it cooled, I sprayed it more and was able to slide the shaft out of the joint.

[DMC5180]

Okay, well your going to need remove the middle bolt. the reason is so you can wedge a screwdriver into the split where the bolts passes through. you will need to rotate the shaft so the split is facing you. You must do this while also leveraging the lower end off the steering rack pinion shaft.

[DMC5180]

I'm pretty sure you need to remove the bolt from the hole, there's a recess in the shaft that accepts the bolt and will keep things together if the bolt is still in the hole..

Your splines look cleaner than mine were. I heated my lower joint a bit with a heat gun, then gently tapped a flat chisel into the slot (just a bit.) After it cooled, I sprayed it more and was able to slide the shaft out of the joint.

+1

[David T]

I'm pretty sure you need to remove the bolt from the hole, there's a recess in the shaft that accepts the bolt and will keep things together if the bolt is still in the hole..

Your splines look cleaner than mine were. I heated my lower joint a bit with a heat gun, then gently tapped a flat chisel into the slot (just a bit.) After it cooled, I sprayed it more and was able to slide the shaft out of the joint.

It's a bit more work but it makes it SO much easier if you remove the whole steering column. Especially if you have the hard bushing, not the softer rubbery ones. Don't split the bushing, it won't last as long. Leave it on one piece. If the hole in the bulkhead is enlarged because you drove around on a bad/missing bushing for a long time you will have to make up a washer to put the bushing in and fasten it to the bulkhead.

[DMC5180]

It's a bit more work but it makes it SO much easier if you remove the whole steering column. Especially if you have the hard bushing, not the softer rubbery ones. Don't split the bushing, it won't last as long. Leave it on one piece. If the hole in the bulkhead is enlarged because you drove around on a bad/missing bushing for a long time you will have to make up a washer to put the bushing in and fasten it to the bulkhead.

Yeah, the assumption here is that the steering column will be coming out once the shaft is disconnected. It's near impossible to get the inner column spline shaft back through the new bushing without dropping the steering column. The bushing and the shaft are not true alignment.

[Lwanmtr]

Ok..Ill do that tomorrow..remove the middle bolt (instructions just said loosen). I had considered removing the steering column..thats just held in at the adjustment bolt, right? by tomorrow the penetrating stuff should have gotten as far as it can for now.

I've driven the car maybe 3 miles myself so far..no idea how long PO had driven it without the bushing.

[DMC5180]

Ok..Ill do that tomorrow..remove the middle bolt (instructions just said loosen). I had considered removing the steering column..thats just held in at the adjustment bolt, right? by tomorrow the penetrating stuff should have gotten as far as it can for now.

I've driven the car maybe 3 miles myself so far..no idea how long PO had driven it without the bushing.

I've never dropped the column by removing the adjuster bolt. I always removed the 2 M10 bolts that hold the whole Bracket assembly to the Dash. I can't really say if that will work for you or not, but theoretically it should work.

[Lwanmtr]

ahh ok...not difficult to remove a couple bolts

[David T]

ahh ok...not difficult to remove a couple bolts

If you do take the adjuster bolt apart you must keep track of EVERY part and put them back together EXACTLY as they were. Otherwise your steering column will never stay up. Don't touch it though, take the small nuts out of the brackets. Try to do all of this with the wheels pointing straight ahead so you can center the steering wheel when you put it back together.

[DMC5180]

Tip: try to put a visible witness mark on the mating splined pieces that won't accidentally get rubbed off with handling.
A scratch awl or similar sharp pointed device works well for this. Under dry conditions a fine point marker would work, but you've already soaked things with penetrant.

[Lwanmtr]

Isnt the only one I gotta worry about it the column going into the ujoint in order to keep the steering aligned?

[Bitsyncmaster]

When I did mine, I just pulled the steering wheel to center it again. I know other people have said this messes up the turn signals but I've had no problem. I think mine was off about 120 degrees before I centered the wheel.

[Lwanmtr]

Got myself in a pickle...

The lower part moves (finally)...I think the center is moving a little..but cant get any good leverage on the upper part to try and pry it.
Where is safe on the ujoint to hammer, etc?

btw..took multiple uses of wd-40..pb blaster and then secret sauce to get it that far

Any suggestions?

Update...upper is loose-ish now too...middle still doesnt look like its moved...squeezed some more secret sauce and letting it sit a bit to
work into it...

Only need about another inch and the steering column should pop free...grrrr

[David T]

Got myself in a pickle...

The lower part moves (finally)...I think the center is moving a little..but cant get any good leverage on the upper part to try and pry it.
Where is safe on the ujoint to hammer, etc?

btw..took multiple uses of wd-40..pb blaster and then secret sauce to get it that far

Any suggestions?

Update...upper is loose-ish now too...middle still doesnt look like its moved...squeezed some more secret sauce and letting it sit a bit to
work into it...

Only need about another inch and the steering column should pop free...grrrr

Wire brush the splines as best as you can. Try to jam a screwdriver or chisel into the split to kind of spread it open as much as you can. Don't use a hammer if you can help it. If you feel you have to hit things use a rubber hammer or a piece of brass. Stay away from the U joints. Make sure you removed the bolts. Mark the positions so you can put it back the way it comes apart. I like to use a centerpunch and then put a small dab of nail polish in it on both sides.

[Lwanmtr]

Trying to remove the steering column cause I cant free up the center to colapse the shaft. I removed the 2 nuts, but It doesnt wannt drop out..is there another place its mounted?

[Lwanmtr]

I got the Ujoint out, finally...didnt remove the steering column...but Im having an issue...

on the instruction for putting the pushing in, it says to push the end up into the sleeve...ok, easy enough....however...
It doesnt say how to get it back out in order to push it through the bushing..

Thanks

[DMC5180]

This is the part where it's easier if the steering column is removed. The inner column shaft needs to be pulled out of the upper section a few inches. Then you can guide the spline and bearing step surface back through the bushing.

[DMC5180]

I got the Ujoint out, finally...didnt remove the steering column...but Im having an issue...

on the instruction for putting the pushing in, it says to push the end up into the sleeve...ok, easy enough....however...
It doesnt say how to get it back out in order to push it through the bushing..

Thanks

Did you shove the column shaft up into the cage bushing too far so that it won't come back out?

Post a couple photos of the situation and I can tell you what you need from what I see.

[Lwanmtr]

Picture wouldnt help much..lol.

I tried removing the steering column altogether...took out the two nuts, but it wouldnt drop out..not sure why...doesnt look like anything is
blocking it.

The end is just out far enough I can grab it...but not get any real grip on it

[DMC5180]

Do you have the new bushing installed ?

Are trying to pull the spline through the new bushing or the column housing end bushing?

Yes a picture would help.

[Lwanmtr]

yeah, new bushing is in.

Any tips on taking out the column completely? Like I said, mine didnt seem to wanna drop

[DMC5180]

Unfortunately, I don't have access to my car at the moment to see what else might be hanging up on you.

Loosen the the column adjuster so it drops to the button of the slot and pull telescope the column out as far as it will move.

The 2 17 mm nuts face down just behind each knee pad. You said, you removed the two nuts. With the nuts out reach up and remove the bolts if you can. Does the column support bracket move around?

[Lwanmtr]

With the them removed it wiggles about...and I cant see anything that could be holding it.

Ill have to try again...getting to the right bolt to hold it is a pain in the butt

[DMC5180]

Here is an image of the column

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx?src=/images/Product/large/106939.JPG

There should only be the two bolts that hold it in place.

Did you accidentally push the lower splined end of the shaft up inside the column housing. Or is it that you just can't get the spline to come back through the new bushing? They are 2 different issues.

[Lwanmtr]

I followed the instructions which said to push the rod as far as you can...I still have about 1/2 inch or so sticking out..enough to grab, but not enough to get a good
grip on. That little bit slides into the bushing fine...lol.

Ill work again tomorrow at getting the column all the way off so I can get at the end. I couldnt see anything holding it when I was under there looking. Maybe now
that its actually detached from the ujoint it will cooperate.

[DMC5180]

I followed the instructions which said to push the rod as far as you can...I still have about 1/2 inch or so sticking out..enough to grab, but not enough to get a good
grip on. That little bit slides into the bushing fine...lol.

Ill work again tomorrow at getting the column all the way off so I can get at the end. I couldnt see anything holding it when I was under there looking. Maybe now
that its actually detached from the ujoint it will cooperate.

Okay, sounds like the 1/2" sticking out is poking through the new bushing. Is that correct?

If so, this the typical problem. The notch between the shaft spline and the smooth area, that rides inside the new bushing, gets caught on the lip of the new bushing. The issue is 2 fold. Gravity and angularity. The axial angle of the shaft and the axial angle of the new bushing coupled with tighter inner diameter, are not in true alignment. Don't worry this normal and it all works once the shaft is through it. The shaft will force the bushing to tip slightly with a little upward side loading. Remember the column moves up and down a several degrees.

If your lucky, you can wiggle and jiggle the end of the spline with a needle nose pliers while pulling it through the bushing. If not, you will need to drop the the column.

Be persistent, you will get it.

[Lwanmtr]

No about 1/2 inch out of the column...thats why Im gonna try again to get the column out tomorrow

[DMC5180]

No about 1/2 inch out of the column...thats why Im gonna try again to get the column out tomorrow

Ah ha, in that case you will need to remove it. The column cage has a plastic bearing inserted into the end of it. You will notice a perhaps 2 or 4 holes around the outside of the cage tube near the lower end. If you look in those holes, you will see plastic nubs that snap into the holes in order to retain the plastic bearing. You can push inward on those points and work the plastic bearing out of the cage. Once that piece is out, you can pull the shaft out as needed. Then re-insert the plastic bearing so that it snaps back into those retaining holes. At that point, the rest is self explanatory.

Good luck

[Lwanmtr]

Got the steering column dropped and the end pulled back out (almost when too far, but got it back in)....

However I'm a little confused..two things dropped when I took out the steering column....

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I've looked at the steering column, tried placing them on the mounting under the dash..they seem to serve no purpose...any idea what they
are? I've looked at all the steering and dash related parts pages I could see and nothing there.

[DMC5180]

Those are part of a service bulletin kit that is supposed to help secure the front of the instrument cluster binnacle. They go under the heads of the large bolts. The slotted end goes under a M4 or M5 bolt near the large bolts. I believe they sit at about 45 degree position.

Unfortunately., I don't have access to the service bulletin data base at the moment. The document shows how they are installed.

Those brackets were likely the reason the column would not drop down earlier.

Dennis

[Lwanmtr]

I felt around, and stuff...couldnt tell where they woulda attached. Quite probably why it wouldnt just drop, yeah.

[DMC5180]

They were just a service kit. To help address movement of the binnacle when hitting bumps and potholes. You don't really need them installed. I'll post a link to the service bulletin in a couple hours when I have better access on my home computer.


Dennis

[DMC5180]

Here you go. SA-0004

http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-14-9.81.html


Dennis

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh ok...thanks.

Ill see if I can locate where they were attached tomorrow when I get back on it. Glad to know they werent some critical thingy..hehe.

[DMC5180]

Here is where they would go: The photo is the left side of the column. The Right side is a mirror image.

37489

I never reinstalled them because I saw no substantial benefit. They attach to the bracket holds the knee pads. The instrument cluster floats above them and still jumps around with bumps.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Here is where they would go: The photo is the left side of the column. The Right side is a mirror image.

37489

I never reinstalled them because I saw no substantial benefit. They attach to the bracket holds the knee pads. The instrument cluster floats above them and still jumps around with bumps.

Actually if you want to avoid dash vibrations on the highway these add on brackets are important. They are secured by the two 17mm stg column mtg bolts and should be lined up and secured with the two inner-most dash binnacle 7mm mtg nuts. We've found them to be effective if properly installed.
Rob

[DMC5180]

Actually if you want to avoid dash vibrations on the highway these add on brackets are important. They are secured by the two 17mm stg column mtg bolts and should be lined up and secured with the two inner-most dash binnacle 7mm mtg nuts. We've found them to be effective if properly installed.
Rob

Hmm, I don't have the instrument cluster bracket with mounting studs you are speaking of.

37492
That would explain why I can move the front of the binnacle up and down.

I only have (four) 7mm nuts holding the binnacle to the fiberglass.

So Yeah , if I had the bracket, then the service kit would be beneficial.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Hmm, I don't have the instrument cluster bracket with mounting studs you are speaking of.

37492
That would explain why I can move the front of the binnacle up and down.

I only have (four) 7mm nuts holding the binnacle to the fiberglass.

So Yeah , if I had the bracket, then the service kit would be beneficial.

Your studs are broken or the whole bracket is AWOL. The part # is 106623 and the DMCH price is $0.00 so you know what that means. I only have one and may use it to make more. I could probably dig up a spare....if your interested contact me by PM. Are you sure your bracket isn't there and it isn't just the studs that are needed?
Rob

[DMC5180]

Your studs are broken or the whole bracket is AWOL. The part # is 106623 and the DMCH price is $0.00 so you know what that means. I only have one and may use it to make more. I could probably dig up a spare....if your interested contact me by PM. Are you sure your bracket isn't there and it isn't just the studs that are needed?
Rob

AWOL :mecry: check your PM's

[Lwanmtr]

I'll have to check mine again, I didnt feel any studs where those brackets would be attached.

[DMC5180]

I'll have to check mine again, I didnt feel any studs where those brackets would be attached.

The small stud with nut would be in the slotted hole above the knee pad stud & nut.

[Lwanmtr]

Found them. Tuck in up there.

Just got the column through the bushing..didnt wanna go at first. Got the column propped up while I decide if I wanna put the ujoint in before securing the column...hehe.

[DMC5180]

Found them. Tuck in up there.

Just got the column through the bushing..didnt wanna go at first. Got the column propped up while I decide if I wanna put the ujoint in before securing the column...hehe.

You can install the upper u joint if your worried about the shaft pushing out of the column. Did you clean the adjustable splines and coat them with an anti-seize or grease? It will pay dividends to do that should you need to take it out down the road.

[Lwanmtr]

Yeah, put silicon on them and inside.

My marks disapeared, so I'm gonna have to adjust the steering wheel once I get it all secured...hehe. What size is the nut?

Got the ujoints back in, not tightened yet.

[DMC5180]

Yeah, put silicon on them and inside.

My marks disapeared, so I'm gonna have to adjust the steering wheel once I get it all secured...hehe. What size is the nut?

Got the ujoints back in, not tightened yet.

If you have the column back in place, just pull the lower joint, center the wheel as best you can and reinstall the joint.

Foggy memory but I think it's a 19 mm nut but could be a little larger.

The bigger issue with removing the wheel is the steering wheel puller and bolt combination. It requires ( 2). M6 X 1.00 X 100 long bolts with medium sized large washers under the head. I have photos of what that looks like if you need to see it.

The center pad of the wheel just pops off by pulling at the top edge.

[Lwanmtr]

would have to at the upper, since the lower has to be attach at a specific angle cause of the indent for the bolt. I did what I could, but I may have turned the
wheels when I was fiddling around :/

Ill do a bit more tomorrow..secure the steering column, then muck around with alinging it to the wheels. Any suggestions on making sure the wheels are pointing
straight?

[DMC5180]

To get your wheels reasonably straight ( in the ballpark) take a straight edge or ruler and lay it against the center of the wheel hub with 8-10" sticking forward. ( or the edge of the rotor ). Then measure from the end of the straight edge to a fixed common point on both sides of the car (frame , sway bar, etc ). Mirror the process on both side and adjust the wheel position to equal amounts. Or you can just Eyeball it. Your going to want to take it in for an alignment check anyway. Just request that they center the wheel and that the steering rack is also centered (stop to stop). The only thing adjustable on a stock delorean is front/rear toe position. They will have the info in their data base.

Rear adjustment requires special U-shims. I recommend you get a half dozen from a vendor to take with you just in case. They go on the trailing arm bolt between the arm and mount bushing. They will also need to spin the bolt to verify whether it is straight or bent. To be safe, just replace them with ones from a vendor.

You will also want to remove the trailing arm shields before you take it in, just in case the fasteners cause problems.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Yeah, put silicon on them and inside.

My marks disapeared, so I'm gonna have to adjust the steering wheel once I get it all secured...hehe. What size is the nut?

Got the ujoints back in, not tightened yet.

It's pretty hard to index mark the spline & shaft. We normally just R&R the stg wheel and recenter it. The nut is 22MM and the best way to remove the stg wheel is with an air hammer if you have one. I've posted this procedure before.
Rob

[David T]

It's pretty hard to index mark the spline & shaft. We normally just R&R the stg wheel and recenter it. The nut is 22MM and the best way to remove the stg wheel is with an air hammer if you have one. I've posted this procedure before.
Rob

It is difficult to mark it so you can see it, the parts are usually rusty so it is hard to get anything that sticks and is easily seen. My technique is to use a centerpunch and make a small dimple and then put a drop of nail polish in it. Any bright color will do. The other thing you can do is make sure the wheels are straight ahead before you take it apart and don't turn anything while it is apart. Not always easy to do AND get access to the bolts. As for pulling the steering wheel, if you don't have an air hammer you can make a puller with a plate, a puller screw and a couple of long bolts. Or just pull the whole column out and be careful putting it back in to line up the steering wheel. When you are all done be sure to check that the A/C hose is securely fastened where it can't get damaged by the steering gear.

[Lwanmtr]

Steering is back together, I just measured to check the wheels were pointing straight, and had the wheel centered. Havent driven it yet, still
a couple things to do under there before I put the wheel back on.

I'll take it up to DMCNW for alignment when I have them do a complete inspection to tell me what I need to get fixed, etc. I dont have an
air wrench and not really a fabricator to make custom tools, so I didnt pull the steering wheel...hehe.

When putting in those brackets to reinforce the binnacle I found that putting the column bolts in and then putting a little double sided sticky
tape on those brackets helped to hold them up while you get the nut tightened up to where it will hold them and the column. Otherwise its a
pain to hold them and get the nuts on, at least it made it easier for me.

[David T]

Steering is back together, I just measured to check the wheels were pointing straight, and had the wheel centered. Havent driven it yet, still
a couple things to do under there before I put the wheel back on.

I'll take it up to DMCNW for alignment when I have them do a complete inspection to tell me what I need to get fixed, etc. I dont have an
air wrench and not really a fabricator to make custom tools, so I didnt pull the steering wheel...hehe.

When putting in those brackets to reinforce the binnacle I found that putting the column bolts in and then putting a little double sided sticky
tape on those brackets helped to hold them up while you get the nut tightened up to where it will hold them and the column. Otherwise its a
pain to hold them and get the nuts on, at least it made it easier for me.

Before you do an alignment there are some things you can do to save yourself some money. Get all of the junk out of the car and have the gas tank 1/2 full.
Have good tires on and make sure they are filled to the correct pressures. Remove the trailing arm shields. Lubricate the front end. Grease the upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends and angle drive. Spray silicone on the steering bushing, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower spring perches and sway bar bushings. WD-40 the steering u-joints. Check for anything bent or worn out and replace before the alignment. Of course DMCNW can do all of that and more but they do have to charge you for it. The more you can do on your own the less it will cost at the shop.

[Lwanmtr]

Pretty much I have 34 year old parts on my suspension..I doubt anything was changed at all. So a complete overhaul on suspension is going to
be needed..even being a non mechanic I can tell some of the rubber and other things are old and need replaced..plus I want the updated springs
and shocks.

[David T]

Pretty much I have 34 year old parts on my suspension..I doubt anything was changed at all. So a complete overhaul on suspension is going to
be needed..even being a non mechanic I can tell some of the rubber and other things are old and need replaced..plus I want the updated springs
and shocks.

Depending on your budget it is not necessary to replace everything. If the ball joints and control arm bushings aren't worn out they can be lubricated and the rubber dust covers replaced. Same for the tie rod ends. The stock springs should be OK unless they were cut. Of course if you are "improving" the suspension then you will want to change everything.

[Lwanmtr]

Ideally, I'd like to get the upgraded suspension springs, shocks, etc. But for now, I'm just making a list of minor things I know I can change
myself.