Door lights don't work

[kl31]

I got my DeLorean about a year ago, and when i first got it, most of the lights work. I just assumed the lights that didn't work were because of burnt light bulbs. And eventually, one by one, they started to go.

Anyways, i just got a set of LED bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs. replaced all of them, and only one works. i thought maybe i got really unlucky and got 5/6 of the polarity wrong. i switched the polarity of the LED's, and nothing. I took a multimeter to the metal tabs on the inside of the rubber housing, and there's no current.

any advice?

[yellowmxwheels23]

Check your fuses?

[Jonathan]

If you have one of the six working, take that bulb out and test it in the other five receptacles. Even if you get the polarity wrong with the known good test bulb, you can reverse it immediately and find out. You don't need to button it all up before trying it out.

Other areas where the problem might be could be the door plungers/switches, the wiring behind them or routed to them, the fuses as mentioned, or just a rusty receptacle for the bulb or fuse that needs a good cleaning. That might not be a bad place to start as well. See about cleaning the contacts for those bulbs/holders with either the end of an old bulb or some sort of brush or contacts cleaner spray.

Also... if any of the wiring within the door is frayed or has some of it exposed through the insulation, it can short against the stainless of the door and blow the fuse. So even if the power was there when you started, it might have inadvertently blown the fuse while you were working on it.

[kl31]

Correct me if Im wrong but isnt the door fuse also the fuse for the interior lighting? The dome lights work and the lugg compartment works as well. The only lights that dont currently work is the glove box light and the engine compartment light.

Also the one bulb thats working isnt working anymore

[Rich]

..... i just got a set of LED bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs. replaced all of them, and only one works. i thought maybe i got really unlucky and got 5/6 of the polarity wrong. i switched the polarity of the LED's, and nothing. I took a multimeter to the metal tabs on the inside of the rubber housing, and there's no current.
Questions about your diagnosis:
1. Did you check the "bad" incandescents you took out of your doors? A continuity check of one or more of them will verify if they are blown or OK, which will aid troubleshooting.
2. You say you checked the door light sockets for current. Did you check the voltage at any door bulb sockets?
3. You report the dome lights work. Do you mean they go on-off with doors open-closed or only that you can switch them on-off at the dome light housing?

[kl31]

Questions about your diagnosis:
1. Did you check the "bad" incandescents you took out of your doors? A continuity check of one or more of them will verify if they are blown or OK, which will aid troubleshooting.
2. You say you checked the door light sockets for current. Did you check the voltage at any door bulb sockets?
3. You report the dome lights work. Do you mean they go on-off with doors open-closed or only that you can switch them on-off at the dome light housing?

Well, i fixed the lighting. Turns out that the previous owner disconnected the door lights from the door button, which was something i overlooked. lol.

However, the dome lights only turn on if i turn it on at the light housing. There's no current going through the dome lighting that would turn it on if the door was open-closed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well, i fixed the lighting. Turns out that the previous owner disconnected the door lights from the door button, which was something i overlooked. lol.

However, the dome lights only turn on if i turn it on at the light housing. There's no current going through the dome lighting that would turn it on if the door was open-closed.

Make sure the door lights are turning off when the doors are shut. Maybe the PO found they were not and it drained his battery. The dome lights have a center off, Auto and On position. Check your in auto position to see the dome lights come on with the doors. If they still don't come on you need to check the three diodes in the harness by the drivers right foot.

By the way, "CURRENT" is used to measure the load on a circuit. That requires putting a current meter in series (breaking the connection) with the load (light bulb). You want to use voltage measurements for trouble shooting your faults. Voltage is measured without breaking the circuit.

[djdogbone]

I had the reverse, not ights, then 5/6 worked. When I pulled out the non-working working door light and discovered one of the wires had corroded off at the connector25873. I re-soldered it back together and it worked.

You will need to pull each non-working light and check the connector at the end.

[kl31]

yeah they don't turn off when the door is shut.

easy solution though. add some epoxy on the tip of the door light button.

what are the diodes?

[Rich]

what are the diodes?

See post #2 here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9267

[Jonathan]

yeah they don't turn off when the door is shut.

easy solution though. add some epoxy on the tip of the door light button.

what are the diodes?

The simplest suggestion I received from Dave S was to pick up a pack of "vacuum caps" at your local parts store. These little rubber ends can add enough bulk to get your plungers to push in adequately when the doors are closed. Door alignment comes into play here as well if not quite right. For example if the rear end of your door looks slightly out of alignment with the rub strips, it might not be clicked down all the way in the latch. Give it a more firm push to find out.

You can also ensure the inside end of the plunger switch is not wobbling around at the fiberglass. It may need to be tightened so it isn't the piece moving. Guys often pull the connector on those switches if the doors are open at car shows and you don't have LEDs and worry about draining your battery. Like you said, easy fix.

[Dhennick99]

Well, i fixed the lighting. Turns out that the previous owner disconnected the door lights from the door button, which was something i overlooked. lol.

However, the dome lights only turn on if i turn it on at the light housing. There's no current going through the dome lighting that would turn it on if the door was open-closed.

I'm having the same issue. Where do I reconnect this? The consignment dealer I bought the car through said the previous owner disconnect the door lights so he could show the car with the door open and not kill the battery. I have the panel trim off. Where and how do I reconnect the door lights?

[Hill Valley PD]

I'm having the same issue. Where do I reconnect this? The consignment dealer I bought the car through said the previous owner disconnect the door lights so he could show the car with the door open and not kill the battery. I have the panel trim off. Where and how do I reconnect the door lights?

When you open your doors, you will notice two black plungers located to the right of where the front of your door latches to the fiberglass tub. Now look just under the dash and either to the left or right depending what door you are at and you will see this (see attached photo). This is the other side of the plungers and activate the door buzzer, interior dome/parcel shelf lights, as well as the door lights. You will notice one of mine is unplugged (door buzzer). It is common for some of these to be unplugged as owners who do not have LEDs do this to avoid battery drain, especially at at car shows when the doors are left open for extended periods of time.

[Rich]

I'm having the same issue. Where do I reconnect this? The consignment dealer I bought the car through said the previous owner disconnect the door lights so he could show the car with the door open and not kill the battery. I have the panel trim off. Where and how do I reconnect the door lights?

Besides the door switches an owner may choose to pull out Fuse 12 to conveniently kill all the convenience lights incl. the door clearance lights.

If your door switches are both connected then look at the fuse holder. Make sure there's a (good) fuse in the slot in the center position in the row of 3 fuses closest to front of car. 10 amps. If lights such as the trunk light, the engine bay light, glove box light work as they should then Fuse 12 is OK.

[David T]

If the wires have been pulled off the door plunger switches on the driver's door be careful. There are 2 groups of 2 wires and they cannot be "crossed", ie, the 2 taped together must go to one switch and the other group of 2 to the other. One switch is for the buzzer and one is for the lights. Cross them together and nothing works right. Doesn't matter which switch is which but you MUST keep each group of 2 together. If the lights don't go off when you close the door try pushing the plunger in with your fingers and the lights should go off. If they do make sure there is a rubber tip on the plunger. If it is missing you can use a short piece of vacuum hose. If they don't could be a problem with the switch. They can loosen up or it could be the other switch in the other door keeping the lights on. Disconnect the wire to the switch for the engine bay light. If it stays on the plastic housing melts and the brass contacts inside will touch and short and blow the fuse.