Radiator recommendations

[DMC3165]

Hi all, so it appears my recently installed NOS plastic radiator is N/G. It is leaking (slightly) where the side tank meets the cooling fins. I assume this will only get worse over time. So I've decided to replace it. I'd like some feedback on what some of you guys have. My main concerns are price, availability, and durability. I had a copper one installed for about 15 years but it was damaged by some road debris last year and after I removed it I found parts of it were starting to corrode pretty bad.

So who has what?

[tommyrich]

Hi Chris,
I have Ed Uding's (dmc Europe) aluminum one in both of my cars and I am very happy with them.
Louis bought The DMCH aluminum one and it was pretty nice too. Either one is a good choice and they are about the same price.
Tom

[David T]

Hi Chris,
I have Ed Uding's (dmc Europe) aluminum one in both of my cars and I am very happy with them.
Louis bought The DMCH aluminum one and it was pretty nice too. Either one is a good choice and they are about the same price.
Tom

Any radiator will last longer if you check the coolant every year for PH and freezing point. The coolant should be flushed and replaced every 5 years. Typically you see the left side tank start leaking first because that is where the hottest coolant is. The OEM rad has plastic tanks held on by tangs bent over the plastic. Corrosion forces things apart and the plastic gets brittle from heat and age. They were never intended to last 20 years and now they are 30! Anyone still using the plastic rad is living on "borrowed" time. You do not need to go with aluminum, copper is fine too but depending on the price of copper it can cost more than aluminum.

[AugustneverEnds]

I have been running the DMCH unit since October '12 and have zero issues to report so far. Car operated just fine on 90 degree days.

[DMC3165]

Any radiator will last longer if you check the coolant every year for PH and freezing point. The coolant should be flushed and replaced every 5 years. Typically you see the left side tank start leaking first because that is where the hottest coolant is. The OEM rad has plastic tanks held on by tangs bent over the plastic. Corrosion forces things apart and the plastic gets brittle from heat and age. They were never intended to last 20 years and now they are 30! Anyone still using the plastic rad is living on "borrowed" time. You do not need to go with aluminum, copper is fine too but depending on the price of copper it can cost more than aluminum.


I appreciate your knowledge and advice David. But I was asking for a recommendation on a radiator not how to maintain a cooling system. In a previous thread I discussed having purchased a NOS radiator and it failed immediately (probably just from sitting for 30 years). So please if you have can recommend a specific vendor I'd appreciate that.

[Soundkillr]

I have Houston's radiator and it is fantastic. I went with another vendors 3 core radiator. Not only did it not fit well with my stock shroud and fans, it leaked after 8 months. Despite a promised warranty nothing was done by the vendor to resolve the issue. Pulled it out, and bought the Houston unit. Great fit, and no problems at all!

[Nicholas R]

I cannot recommend Ed Udings radiator enough, just for reference, my previous brass radiator that worked great with my PRV, let the car get to 230 on hot days with the new engine. Eds radiator keeps it between 180-205 at all times. That's Florida summer with AC on full blast.

[sdg3205]

+1 for the upgraded DMCH unit. Good bang for the buck.

[jawn101]

I cannot recommend Ed Udings radiator enough, just for reference, my previous brass radiator that worked great with my PRV, let the car get to 230 on hot days with the new engine. Eds radiator keeps it between 180-205 at all times. That's Florida summer with AC on full blast.

Another big +1 on Ed's radiator. It was really too bad to bury it under the nose - it's beautiful and also has lowered my already-cool engine temps by at least 1/4 tick.

[David T]

Another big +1 on Ed's radiator. It was really too bad to bury it under the nose - it's beautiful and also has lowered my already-cool engine temps by at least 1/4 tick.

I have used rads from SpecailT and PJ Grady. They all change venders and suppliers all the time so what was bought a couple of years ago and works fine is not always a good indicator of what they sell today. They all sell a good product because they have to stand behind it and "eat it" if it doesn't last. I mention what it takes to maintain a cooling system because you can buy the "best" part but if you don't install it right or take proper care of it nothing will last like it should.

[Bitsyncmaster]

+1 on Ed's rad. It's built like a "tank" (no pun) and weighs much less than the OEM rad.

[RoyHinkley]

+1 on Houston's radiator. Pure perfection.

[RoyHinkley]

I have Houston's radiator and it is fantastic. I went with another vendors 3 core radiator. Not only did it not fit well with my stock shroud and fans, it leaked after 8 months. Despite a promised warranty nothing was done by the vendor to resolve the issue. Pulled it out, and bought the Houston unit. Great fit, and no problems at all!

Speaking about promised warranty and no satisfaction, sounds like another "fine" (sarcasm) Hervey experience.

[jawn101]

Took this photo on a whim today for another member. For anyone who doubts Ed's radiator, this photo was taken after an hour on the highway at 70 mph. It is 95 degrees with full sun right now, 18% RH. I had the AC on max, fan speed 4 the whole time. Not bad.

27190

[Ryan S.]

Took this photo on a whim today for another member. For anyone who doubts Ed's radiator, this photo was taken after an hour on the highway at 70 mph. It is 95 degrees with full sun right now, 18% RH. I had the AC on max, fan speed 4 the whole time. Not bad.

27190

Wow. I really need that. Mine was 220.

[Nicholas R]

If you need more convincing, I'll take a picture of my OBDII scanner reading 200 degrees or less driving in the summer with my AC on max. Ed Uding's radiator all the way.

[kings1527]

I have used Houston's for the past couple years and on some pretty hot trips. The longest being about four hours in temps that were well over 100 degrees and uphill a lot of the way (Los Angeles to Paso Robles at the end of July). Not a single hitch. Operated at 220 with MAX AC going up the grapevine on Interstate 5 which is notorious for getting cars of older vintage to overheat (very long, steep grade for about 10+ miles). Not the case with my car. It performed perfectly. The rest of the trip was well below 220 with those ambient temps.

[NightFlyer]

Is the only difference between DMCH's and Ed Uding's radiators, both aluminum, that the Houston one is painted black, while Ed's is left raw unpainted aluminum? Or are there other differences as well?

[DMCMW Dave]

Is the only difference between DMCH's and Ed Uding's radiators, both aluminum, that the Houston one is painted black, while Ed's is left raw unpainted aluminum? Or are there other differences as well?

I have not compared them side to side, but I know for sure they are not the same radiator. Ed's is made in Europe somewhere, the DMCH version is made in the US.

Within a given size and thickness it's hard to change the capacity much. Physics gets in the way once you get to a decent fin density.

Brass was a better "radiator" than aluminum but costs got in the way of anyone ever making brass radiators again. Modern cars are all aluminum with plastic side tanks. Luckily the volume of DeLorean radiators needed is too small for anyone to bother making plastic tanks for them.

[Nicholas R]

Dave, can you tell me more about DMCH's Radiator? When I installed Eds, it was pretty much the absolute max dimension in every direction. I'm curious to compare them.

Here's a comparison between my previous brass radiator that Eds replaced.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0ZlOxBQOx14/ULWcqyoZ6vI/AAAAAAAABBw/IhK1JZmf8q0/s1600/521334_10100613772961075_1007445555_n.jpg

There were 18 fins on my brass radiator; Ed's has 27 fins. Ed's was about .6" thicker than my brass radiator, and the core was 2" wider than the brass one (though because of the low profile bottle design, the radiator still easily fit in the shroud.

[kings1527]

Does Ed's have a valvecock on the lower left? From pics that I've seen, it doesn't look like it. I've found that to be very handy (on the Houston unit).

[Mark D]

I've been very happy with the all aluminum DMCH radiator I got last year. I definitely see cooler temps than the original but that may be due in part to the original having the fins blocked up with 30 years of worth of road grime, bugs, bits of grass, etc. The aluminum welded construction on the new one gives me more confidence than the old crimped plastic side tank design.

[BABIS]

Dave, can you tell me more about DMCH's Radiator? When I installed Eds, it was pretty much the absolute max dimension in every direction. I'm curious to compare them.

Here's a comparison between my previous brass radiator that Eds replaced.


There were 18 fins on my brass radiator; Ed's has 27 fins. Ed's was about .6" thicker than my brass radiator, and the core was 2" wider than the brass one (though because of the low profile bottle design, the radiator still easily fit in the shroud.

I have this french radiator which is even bigger than Ed's one : :cool1:
(comparison in these pictures)

27314
27315
27316

[Domi]

I also have this one, but still did not install it, it's still in its box.
Did you already install it?

[Nicholas R]

I have this french radiator which is even bigger than Ed's one : :cool1:
(comparison in these pictures)

27314
27315
27316

Wow, very nice!

Can you measure the thickness of the core of both of them and compare them? I'm just curious because in the second picture it looks like the bottles are wider than the core is, possibly making it look like the radiator is thicker when it's just the bottles.

Could be just an illusion but I'm still curious. I noticed that the radiator has 27 fins just like EDs so it seems like there is a possibility that it's actually the same core with different bottles. Perhaps there is even a gap between the two cores.

Still like I said, it looks very nice. I'm curious if there's any issue mounting it because I know Eds is pretty much at the geometric limits of that space. In fact I believe a few years ago Ed altered the design of the bottles to make the radiator fit better. I installed two of these radiators in cars with Cliff Schmucker about two years apart and the first car was very difficult to fit. We actually had to cut and notch the shroud to get it to fit. The second car later on (after radiator design change) went in perfectly with no issues. Same thing when I later installed the radiator in my car.

[BABIS]

I also have this one, but still did not install it, it's still in its box.
Did you already install it?


Wow, very nice!

Can you measure the thickness of the core of both of them and compare them? I'm just curious because in the second picture it looks like the bottles are wider than the core is, possibly making it look like the radiator is thicker when it's just the bottles.

Could be just an illusion but I'm still curious. I noticed that the radiator has 27 fins just like EDs so it seems like there is a possibility that it's actually the same core with different bottles. Perhaps there is even a gap between the two cores.

Still like I said, it looks very nice. I'm curious if there's any issue mounting it because I know Eds is pretty much at the geometric limits of that space. In fact I believe a few years ago Ed altered the design of the bottles to make the radiator fit better. I installed two of these radiators in cars with Cliff Schmucker about two years apart and the first car was very difficult to fit. We actually had to cut and notch the shroud to get it to fit. The second car later on (after radiator design change) went in perfectly with no issues. Same thing when I later installed the radiator in my car.

yes I already installed it ;) Domi since you have the radiator still in box can you measure it? I guess there are all the infos also in the french forum.. IIRC its thickness is 52mm.. the installation went with no major problems ;) we had to cut off some edges from the fan shroud due to the welding protrusions...

[Domi]

yes I already installed it ;) Domi since you have the radiator still in box can you measure it? I guess there are all the infos also in the french forum.. IIRC its thickness is 52mm.. the installation went with no major problems ;) we had to cut off some edges from the fan shroud due to the welding protrusions...


Can you measure the thickness of the core of both of them and compare them?

Where is it exactly?
27347

Here is the original thread on the French forum:
http://www.stainlesswings.fr/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3355

[Nicholas R]

The core is the center (main part) of the radiator; the part with all of the fins and heat syncs. It looked like in the previous photos that the bottles were wider than the core of the radiator. The size of the bottles is far less important than the size of the core so that's why I was curious what the actual core thickness was. Thanks! :thumbup:

[Domi]

It measure 66,5mm x 28mm
Here are two mores pictures, hope this helps.
2735327354

[Nicholas R]

It measure 66,5mm x 28mm
Here are two mores pictures, hope this helps.
2735327354

Can you give the 3rd dimension? The depth/thickness of the core? Thanks!

[Domi]

Here it is, 55mm
27530

[NightFlyer]

Here it is, 55mm
27530

Domi is da man! :thumbup:

Thanks!

[Domi]

You're welcome, glad I could help a little.

[Nicholas R]

Thank you! This is great info!

I think that perhaps this should be captured somewhere in the resources. Overall dimensions, materials, number of fins, etc. for the different radiator options. With people making so many new modifications to their DeLoreans, the will definitely come in handy.

[Shuttleman]

37763377643776537766

NOS: Copper Brass 34 tubes with side plastic tank
DMCH: Aluminum 23 tubes with aluminum side tank and drain cock, light weight.
Core dimension is identical on both unit.

[Henrik]

I cannot recommend Ed Udings radiator enough, just for reference, my previous brass radiator that worked great with my PRV, let the car get to 230 on hot days with the new engine. Eds radiator keeps it between 180-205 at all times. That's Florida summer with AC on full blast.

I have Ed U's radiator installed for my engine swap project - good to know that was a good choice :)

http://deloreanvr6conversion.blogspot.com/

[dn010]

I just received my EU radiator. What did you guys end up using for studs on the bottom?

[jawn101]

I just received my EU radiator. What did you guys end up using for studs on the bottom?

...it should have shipped with bolts? Mine did.

[Henrik]

...it should have shipped with bolts? Mine did.

It's been about a year, but I agree, I think the radiator came with all the needed hardware, IIRC.

[dn010]

Mine had nothing else with it unless they're stuffed down in the coolant openings. There is plastic rubber banded to the openings and it didn't appear anything was in them so I'm not sure. I can check them tonight...


...it should have shipped with bolts? Mine did.

[dn010]

No bolts. Anyone happen to have dimensions?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[dn010]

I just emailed the Delorean Club UK (who I purchased the radiator through) and they responded within minutes! For anyone that may order in the future and forgets to include the bolts or doesn't know they're not included, they said the size is M10X30. It appears they are no longer supplied with the radiator. Can't wait to install this!

[BABIS]

I just emailed the Delorean Club UK (who I purchased the radiator through) and they responded within minutes! For anyone that may order in the future and forgets to include the bolts or doesn't know they're not included, they said the size is M10X30. It appears they are no longer supplied with the radiator. Can't wait to install this!

I wonder if it would be the case to install studs instead of bolts (like the original radiator has)..

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder if it would be the case to install studs instead of bolts (like the original radiator has)..

Mine did not come with bolts so I cut some long bolts to make studs and used original nuts.

[sdg3205]

My DMCH rad has sprung a leak, the one I was extolling earlier in this thread. I'm a little bitter since it only has five driving seasons on it and about 10k miles.

At first i thought it was the LH top hose/fitting leaking, so I removed the old hose, cleaned the aluminum neck tubing at both ends with brake clean and alcohol, then applied a thin film of RTV (in case nicks or corrosion was an issue), cut a new rubber hose to spec and installed it with 4 new hose clamps (just in case two per side wasn't enough). It still leaks down LH tank along the inside edge next to the fins and blows all over the frame. I'm convinced it is leaking somewhere from the core, but near the top left corner and is giving the illusion of coming from the top LH neck. Its hard to tell with the shroud in place.

I have done two coolant changes since I installed it in 2010, one to address a different issue and one in 2014 as regular maintenance. I'm going to pull it out and get it and the three other factory rads I have on my shelves tested. I may be rolling with plastic this summer if at all since my daughters day care costs as much as a second mortgage and i love her more than my stainless money pit :)

Is this Ed's famous rad (http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=41006)? With the lousy US/CAD exchange right now it's actually cheaper to buy from Ed, even with shipping.

[jawn101]

My DMCH rad has sprung a leak, the one I was extolling earlier in this thread. I'm a little bitter since it only has five driving seasons on it and about 10k miles.

At first i thought it was the LH top hose/fitting leaking, so I removed the old hose, cleaned the aluminum neck tubing at both ends with brake clean and alcohol, then applied a thin film of RTV (in case nicks or corrosion was an issue), cut a new rubber hose to spec and installed it with 4 new hose clamps (just in case two per side wasn't enough). It still leaks down LH tank along the inside edge next to the fins and blows all over the frame. I'm convinced it is leaking somewhere from the core, but near the top left corner and is giving the illusion of coming from the top LH neck. Its hard to tell with the shroud in place.

I have done two coolant changes since I installed it in 2010, one to address a different issue and one in 2014 as regular maintenance. I'm going to pull it out and get it and the three other factory rads I have on my shelves tested. I may be rolling with plastic this summer if at all since my daughters day care costs as much as a second mortgage and i love her more than my stainless money pit :)

Is this Ed's famous rad (http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=41006)? With the lousy US/CAD exchange right now it's actually cheaper to buy from Ed, even with shipping.

Sorry to hear it Dave. Yeah, that's Ed's rad. Best built part on my car right now, I'd wager. Worth every penny....

[FABombjoy]

I just purchased the DMCEU radiator as well. Delivered to the US it was 317.08 and only took about a week to arrive.

Not sure how that plays out with the CAD->EUR exchange rate and import duties, but I have to believe it is very competitive with US offerings.

[Nicholas R]

I just purchased the DMCEU radiator as well. Delivered to the US it was 317.08 and only took about a week to arrive.

Not sure how that plays out with the CAD->EUR exchange rate and import duties, but I have to believe it is very competitive with US offerings.

I agree, there is a nice advantage to not having to pay the european value added tax (VAT). I had the same experience; right around $300 delivered, and it only took about a week. Even DMCH's radiator is $385 before shipping.

I will always sing praises for Ed's radiator after it proved more than capable of keeping my engine cool.



Is this Ed's famous rad (http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=41006)? With the lousy US/CAD exchange right now it's actually cheaper to buy from Ed, even with shipping.

Yes, but (at least in my experience), the price on the website includes the Value Added Tax, which is around 20%. So if you remove that, you get somewhere around 240 Euros, which equals about $270 or 350CAD.

[Henrik]

With about 4 times the power/torque on 1283, compared stock, my heat rejection needs will certainly be put to the test in the Texas heat this summer. But as I researched this about two years ago, Ed's aluminum radiator was the best choice.

[Lou and "Boo"]

The reason why I chose the dmch rad over the DMC Europe one was that the dmch one was painted aluminum as the Europe one was bare aluminum.
Living on the water (salt water canal off bay) my aluminum engine and peugot manifold show surface corrosion. It's not much but I figured with the thin aluminum used for the radiator, a Painted one would be more protected from the salt air is what I figured.

Please Forgive me if I already explained that on this thread.

[Josh]

I ordered some other parts so I dont know the exact shipped price of the DMC EU rad, but it was just shy of the 400CAD point. Excited to get this thing installed. I also ordered some fans from a 2001 grand am... come complete with a shroud, should push a decent amount of air.

[Lou and "Boo"]

I ordered some other parts so I dont know the exact shipped price of the DMC EU rad, but it was just shy of the 400CAD point. Excited to get this thing installed. I also ordered some fans from a 2001 grand am... come complete with a shroud, should push a decent amount of air.

Do the grand am fans and shroud fit with out modification? Looking into new fans, still running oem.

[Josh]

Do the grand am fans and shroud fit with out modification? Looking into new fans, still running oem.

Ill be following up on the fitment and performance. Toby's or the DPI fan setup are good bolt on upgrades.

[dn010]

I am running Ed's radiator with DPI fans/shroud. Both were well worth the money. Keep in mind these both do not come with hardware so you'll need M10X30 bolts for the radiator and bolts for the fan shroud - I can't remember what size they were now (M7 maybe?). I used bolts for the radiator but ideally you would probably want to do what Dave M did and cut the heads off the bolts and make them studs in the radiator - it was a PITA trying to locate the bolts to the radiator through the new brackets with new rubber, etc.


Toby's or the DPI fan setup are good bolt on upgrades.

[FABombjoy]

FWIW the radiator that I received from Ed last week came with a bag of bolts & bushings.

[dn010]

FWIW the radiator that I received from Ed last week came with a bag of bolts & bushings.

Perhaps this is the difference between ordering it from Delorean EU and Delorean Club UK?

[Josh]

The shroud bolt holes in the rad accept M6 bolts. I ordered my rad through Ed as well and received stainless steel mounting hardware as well as new rubber mounts. Which is nice because I did not get them when I ordered my last rad and i was reusing the worn out 30 year old mounts!

[ed uding]

All radiators that are send out from www.delorean.eu do come with 4 new rubbers bolds and washers.

Regards Ed
www.delorean.eu