running a prv on a stand

[m_w]

Greetings all,
I'm looking to see if anyone out there has tested and tuned their prv outside of the car. What advice do you have?

It looks to have two adjustments, the dist pressure and the co screw. And most of the setup seems straightforward. I'm wondering how to handle the freq valve, and the idle air motor.

Anything else I'm not thinking of?

[dn010]

My guess is that this would be tough unless you can find a way to connect the ICU & ECU.

[DMCMW Dave]

Starter bolts to the bellhousing so you need at least that much of the transmission. So it won't exactly run on a conventional engine stand.

Yes - you'd need some chunks of old wiring harness to get the ECUs connected as well.

[Rich]

Do you have a plan for fuel feed? And return?
+ Fuel tank/reservoir
+ Fuel pump within said tank or some way to get >70PSI fuel feed
+ Accumulator if you want hot restarts
+ Fuel filter - depending on where the fuel is coming from it's unlikely to be cleaner than when the engine is in the car
+ Fuel return line from the fuel distributor to the reservoir

Maybe your plan is to fully remote that from the firewall out to your stand? And back (for the return line). Be sure it's high-pressure hose and fittings - rated at 100PSI or better.

Will save coolant questions for another time. All engines run OK without coolant circulating. For a short time...

[Citizen]

Obviously you'll need to vent the exhaust to the outside of the building you are in (unless it is an open garage).

You’ll need a connection to the exhaust manifold, probably like real exhaust pipe, but it only needs to be long enough to handle conduction heat (a few feet maybe). Then, get some plastic flex pipe, and run it to a fitted hole in an outside wall.

You don't want to be breathing fumes.

Thomas

...

[m_w]

I have access to the equipment that can supply fuel and appropriate pressure, provide cooling and regulate it appropriately and exhaust gasses will be handled safely. The starter motor shouldn't be an issue either.

I think the biggest issues I see are what dave mentions... needing to run wire and the control units. If there is no way around that, I probably can't run it outside the car.my plan was to not power the cold start injector, and provide a constant 12v to the warm up regulator. This still leaves the frequency valve and its alternating 80/20 and 20/80 on/off intervals and the idle air control motor.

I suppose the dwell angle provided by the icu could be an issue as well... I didn't know if doing this was possible but I wanted to throw the question out there to see if it had been done. I'm getting the impression that this isn't a standard thing.

I'm probably better off completing the engine and wiring and tuning it on a chassis dyno.

Thanks for the input :)

[wafflemaster]

After removing my ecu/icu/lambda circuits from my project I would guess that running the PRV on an engine stand/dyno would be very difficult without most of the harness there with it. A chassis dyno sounds like the way to go. If you are ever in the Northern Nevada area let me know and you can use mine. I might part with my harness and ecus soon, let me know if you need them.

[Dangermouse]

Out of curiosity - why would you want to do this?

[m_w]

Out of curiosity - why would you want to do this?


I was mainly interested in getting the engine running and broken in, in a more controlled environment. When it goes back in the car, the variables - things I've replace and changed - goes way up.

[cineman]

I did it a pair of time ^^


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErZFAPRyvpg


frequency valve and ECU are not really necessary if you make manual co adjusment. Idle motor also is not really needed.
You need just the Ignition ECU module connected to the rotor coil and spark coil output.
It depends if you just want to see it running or you need to make
a controlled carburation on an engine test dynamoter... in this conditions you need to have everything connected as the electrical diagram of the car, for the engine side.

[cineman]

and this time also:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbu130vDGMg

[m_w]

=cineman

Perfect info. I just want to see it run and look for obvious issues.
Let me review those videos...

[Ron]

Anything else I'm not thinking of?If you have replaced the camshafts(?), you need to set it up where it can run ~20 minutes non stop at ~2000 RPM immediately after you fire it up the first time, W/O overheating...

[TTait]

I was mainly interested in getting the engine running and broken in, in a more controlled environment. When it goes back in the car, the variables - things I've replace and changed - goes way up.

If you had a fully tested engine stand assembly with all of the wiring and connections you needed ready to go, that would be true. By using an external stand you will be testing it with 100% untested conditions and equipment, versus only some of the things on the car being new or untested.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It would be nice to have things running on a test stand but unless your going to test may engines (PRVs), the work to set up all the wiring and such would take many more hours than a few engine pulls and installs.

[m_w]

If you had a fully tested engine stand assembly with all of the wiring and connections you needed ready to go, that would be true. By using an external stand you will be testing it with 100% untested conditions and equipment, versus only some of the things on the car being new or untested.


You have identified my concern. Everything on the car is untested.

[Dangermouse]

Co-incidentally, I came across this at the weekend.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxVUrb8NyWQ

battery, gauges, cooling system all in place. Dave S could make up the stand and rent it out to people in need :)

[nkemp]

Out of curiosity - why would you want to do this?

One reason is if you wanted to do the PRV 3.0 MegaSquirt conversion. It would be great to get the 3.0 running on a stand and then "slip it into the car". That way the car is down a lot shorter time.