Valve adjustment

[krs09]

Ill keep this short and sweet. Any tips or tricks to adjusting the valves? Ive read the book but im looking for any insider info. After installing the engine ive had some taps. First it was all the time (hot or cold) after some tweaking now its quiet on start up but when it gets warmed up the tapping comes back. The book seems straight forward but again any tips would be awesome!! Step by step info?

[John U]

I raised the back of the car, put it in gear (third i think), and blocked the passenger side rear wheel with a chock so it couldnt move. I then could turn the driver side rear wheel by hand while watching the cam lobes move. Found it very easy to put the cams where they needed to be rather than try to do it with the starter as some recommend.

[David T]

I raised the back of the car, put it in gear (third i think), and blocked the passenger side rear wheel with a chock so it couldnt move. I then could turn the driver side rear wheel by hand while watching the cam lobes move. Found it very easy to put the cams where they needed to be rather than try to do it with the starter as some recommend.

Just make sure the other valve is open in the cylinder you are checking, ie, if you are checking the intake valve in cyl 1 make sure the exhaust valve in cyl 1 is open. Recheck after you have completely locked the adjusting screw because as you tighten the lock nut you change the adjustment.

[krs09]

Just some quick questions. I dont have the service book with me but what does the term "on the rock" mean when adjust the valves? Also, the piston order? I believe its (on the passenger side from fire wall to muffler) 1-2-3 and (on the driver side from fire wall to muffler) 6-5-4. Any help would be great! Thanks

[DMCMW Dave]

It mean on the low part of the cam not the part the opens the valve


Sent from phone

[krs09]

It mean on the low part of the cam not the part the opens the valve


Sent from phone

Ahhh. So the "rock" is the flatter part of the cam not the lobe?

[DMCMW Dave]

Ahhh. So the "rock" is the flatter part of the cam not the lobe?

Yes. You can not possibly set the valve clearance if the cam is pushing the valve open.

[krs09]

Ill tell ya, the service manual seems overly complicated. When I set the #1 cylinder to TDC and cylinder #5 seem to be "on the rock" (like the book says) I can adjust I1-I2-I4 - while 1 and 2 were good to adjust #4 was almost on the lobe and impossible to adjust properly. The car ran fine before adjustment so I don't think its a issue... Isnt the moral of the lesson to make sure the valve is closed with the proper clearance (intake .004 - exhaust .010) when "on the rock" (totally off the lobe). Soooo cant I just move the cam shafts till I can clearly see each valve "on the rock" and adjust one by one?? Whats the point of having cylinder #1 at TDC to begin adjustment? Is it just a guideline?

[John U]

Ill tell ya, the service manual seems overly complicated. When I set the #1 cylinder to TDC and cylinder #5 seem to be "on the rock" (like the book says) I can adjust I1-I2-I4 - while 1 and 2 were good to adjust #4 was almost on the lobe and impossible to adjust properly. The car ran fine before adjustment so I don't think its a issue... Isnt the moral of the lesson to make sure the valve is closed with the proper clearance (intake .004 - exhaust .010) when "on the rock" (totally off the lobe). Soooo cant I just move the cam shafts till I can clearly see each valve "on the rock" and adjust one by one?? Whats the point of having cylinder #1 at TDC to begin adjustment? Is it just a guideline?

Thats what i did. Visually made sure the valve was on the rock, adjusted if needed. Then i checked each valve about three separate times to make sure it didnt change after adjusting the others.

[dustybarn]

+1 on what everyone has said. The cam must be on the base circle (not opening the valve) to adjust the clearance. You must check it after you have tightened the locknut because the act of tightening it changes the setting. AND please remember that because this is a solid-lifter engine, some valve train noise is almost unavoidable under some conditions. The engine in my Triumph clatters like Granny's dentures when it's cold, and goes nice and quiet once it has warmed up.

[D Knight]

So it can be said then that when each cylinder is at TDC you can adjust both of that cylinders valves I assume. The manual makes it sound a lot more complicated than it really is


-D Knight-

[David T]

So it can be said then that when each cylinder is at TDC you can adjust both of that cylinders valves I assume. The manual makes it sound a lot more complicated than it really is


-D Knight-

Because of valve overlap, if you want to do a cylinder intake and exhaust at TDC, you have to make sure it is the compression stroke. Most mechanics usually prefer to do all of the intakes and then all of the exhausts. That way you don't accidentally use the wrong feeler gauge on the wrong valve. Although the manual makes it seem complicated, by doing it by that method it reduces the # of times you have to rotate the motor. As long as one valve in a cylinder is open the other WILL be closed.

[krs09]

I just slowly turned the cams until I could see the valve I wanted to adjust sitting on the rock (very bottom of the egg shape). Every valve was a little loose and after adjustment the engine runs much much quieter. The books really makes it sound much harder than it is. Just after the first round of adjustments I turned the cams about 1/4 turn and checked again, I did this all the way around to be sure. Really not hard at all.. once your in there.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm adjusting my valves today and following the manuals "TDC procedure."

When set to TDC using the crankshaft mark, cylinder 5 should be on the rock but I'm not sure it's on the rock "enough."

Is cylinder 5 on the rock enough in first set of pics?

Or, should I adjust the valves with the crankshaft mark way off (but cylinder 5 more on the rock) and only use the "on the rock cylinder" as a guideline?

Thanks!


33418 33419 33420 33421

I need to adjust 1 when 5 is on the rock (5 is shown in the pics.) When the timing mark is lined up the lobes at cylinder 1 are pointing in a downward direction, so can I sy that with the timing mark lined up, cylinder 5 is "on the rock enough?"

[Rich_NYS]

I think I answered my own question, after turning the crank a few times I arrived at this:

33422

Seems to be a bit more on the flat spot of the cam and the valves that I should be able to adjust seem to be in the right position.

Make sense?

[David T]

I think I answered my own question, after turning the crank a few times I arrived at this:

33422

Seems to be a bit more on the flat spot of the cam and the valves that I should be able to adjust seem to be in the right position.

Make sense?

After adjusting the valves remember to reset the Lambda counter. Make sure you get the adjusters locked tight. While tightening the lock nuts you can change the adjustment so recheck the clearance after you get the nut tight.

[Rich_NYS]

After adjusting the valves remember to reset the Lambda counter. Make sure you get the adjusters locked tight. While tightening the lock nuts you can change the adjustment so recheck the clearance after you get the nut tight.

I noticed it's a bit of a dance to maintain the adjustment while tightening the locknuts, I've re-adjusted a few so far.

Forgot about the lambda counter....thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Done....sounds much nicer!

[David T]

I noticed it's a bit of a dance to maintain the adjustment while tightening the locknuts, I've re-adjusted a few so far.

Forgot about the lambda counter....thanks!

You are also supposed to replace the O2 sensor when doing the valves and resetting the Lambda counter. Typically done at the 30,000 mile service or every 10 years or so.

[Rich_NYS]

You are also supposed to replace the O2 sensor when doing the valves and resetting the Lambda counter. Typically done at the 30,000 mile service or every 10 years or so.

:thumbup:

[TTait]

I have an auto - so its a bit harder to spin the engine than on a 5 speed. Want to rig up a starter button for the engine compartment. Am I hooking up from the positive battery post to the white/red wire in the white bulkhead connector closest to the firewall?

Assuming I have to turn the key to run, turn off the fuel pump at the rollover switch, and pull the coil wire before i trst the button?

[DMCMW Dave]

I have an auto - so its a bit harder to spin the engine than on a 5 speed. Want to rig up a starter button for the engine compartment. Am I hooking up from the positive battery post to the white/red wire in the white bulkhead connector closest to the firewall?

Assuming I have to turn the key to run, turn off the fuel pump at the rollover switch, and pull the coil wire before i trst the button?

Key off, pull the small wires off the coil.

I know yours is an automatic but if you do this on a manual make damn sure it isn't in gear or you'll run over your lawnmower, or worse.

[TTait]

Key off, pull the small wires off the coil.

I know yours is an automatic but if you do this on a manual make damn sure it isn't in gear or you'll run over your lawnmower, or worse.

Perfect - SO much easier...

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I got my valves adjusted using the second method in the Workshop Manual (C:05:03 ) .

Question: is there a torque specification to tighten the valve adjuster nut?

Thanks!

34508

[David T]

Hi there,

I got my valves adjusted using the second method in the Workshop Manual (C:05:03 ) .

Question: is there a torque specification to tighten the valve adjuster nut?

Thanks!

34508

There is no torque spec for the locknut on the adjuster for the valves (at least in any Delorean literature). Be aware that tightening that nut affects the clearance and it must be rechecked after you tighten that locknut. Don't be afraid to get it tight. More is better than less. There may be a spec for it in a Renault manual. I get it somewhere around 30-40 ft/lbs by feel. Since you have everything open it doesn't hurt to recheck the clearances all around at least once more. Remember to reset the Lambda counter and replace the O2 sensor. You should also be replacing the spark plugs and checking the mixture. It also can't hurt to do a compression test to make sure everything is good and pressurize the coolant system before you put the intake manifold back on.

[DMC-81]

Thanks David.

Well, I finished the job and reinstalled the valve covers. I found that after adjustment, if I held the bolt firmly with the screwdriver in one hand, and the closed end of a 13 mm hand wrench with the other, I could tighten the nut hand tight and then I could torque it with a socket. After I was done, I think I got them to .004" and .010" as checked them with .005" on the intake and .011" on the exhaust and I couldn't insert them.

I wasn't able to find a Volvo spec for the adjustment nut, but I found this handy torque chart for different grades of steel and whether the bolt is dry, lubricated, or zinc plated.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20Metric%20Fasteners.pdf

The adjustment bolt is 8 mm, so I used the 10.9 lubricated type and that said 20 ft/lbs, but I went a little more... 22.

I used 9 ft/lbs for the valve covers.

Thanks all for your posts. This is a helpful thread!

34550

[David T]

Thanks David.

Well, I finished the job and reinstalled the valve covers. I found that after adjustment, if I held the bolt firmly with the screwdriver in one hand, and the closed end of a 13 mm hand wrench with the other, I could tighten the nut hand tight and then I could torque it with a socket. After I was done, I think I got them to .004" and .010" as checked them with .005" on the intake and .011" on the exhaust and I couldn't insert them.

I wasn't able to find a Volvo spec for the adjustment nut, but I found this handy torque chart for different grades of steel and whether the bolt is dry, lubricated, or zinc plated.

https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20Metric%20Fasteners.pdf

The adjustment bolt is 8 mm, so I used the 10.9 lubricated type and that said 20 ft/lbs, but I went a little more... 22.

I used 9 ft/lbs for the valve covers.

Thanks all for your posts. This is a helpful thread!

34550

Torque charts are for "ordinary" applications. The adjuster lock nut is a very high stress fastener and it has to handle a lot of stress with repeated frequency. The general logic of tightening (torquing) fasteners is to put it under more but constant stress than the cyclic loading it may be subjected to. I have seen them loosen. You don't want to over-torque it but I think 20 ft/lbs is too low. When I adjust I use the box end of a combination wrench and a screwdriver and tighten it up tight while holding back with the screwdriver so the adjustment doesn't change too much. After a while you get a feel for how much it changes when you tighten the locknut so you set the gap accordingly. Then you recheck and readjust if necessary.