Can't Open Passenger Door AT ALL

[Shark Pilot]

I have the remote door launchers. Mother in-law was facinated with the car, wanted to sit in it then locked herself in much to my embarrassment and I had to pull her out from the driver's side. I CANNOT OPEN THE F-ING PASSENGER DOOR AT ALL. Please help as I have not had any issues with this mod till now. It's like the door is just jammed. The outside lever feels loose like it's not actuating anything and the remote actuation does nothing though I can hear it trying to open the door.

[Dangermouse]

The door is still locked. Lower the window down and rock the lock switch back and forth while pulling up on the interior door lever.


Once it is open, you will probably be taking your first trip inside the door to see what has worked loose. Stock up on masking tape.

[Shark Pilot]

The door is still locked. Lower the window down and rock the lock switch back and forth while pulling up on the interior door lever.


Once it is open, you will probably be taking your first trip inside the door to see what has worked loose. Stock up on masking tape.

DOOOD you're a fricken genius. That totally worked! I lubed everything up, but the door handle is weaker than it used to be. Opens great with remote door launcher, but still a little leary of the handle. Either way......you SAVED ME :notworthy:

[Dangermouse]

No genius here, just bitter experience :).

Glad it worked out.

Sometimes passengers accidentally fiddle with stuff and it is considered rude to slap their fingers with a ruler. :)

If it continues to be a problem there is a "lock and latch" adjustment procedure that can be done. I think it is the resource section. It takes a few hours and you need to take the door trim off.

[NightFlyer]

I've had my locks fail to disengage on a few occasions, and I'm still running the stock/OEM controller.

While this admittedly could just be coincidental and not truly relational at all, one thing that I've noticed is that you don't want to close the doors while they're locked, as doing so seems to mess up the linkages more so than closing them while they're unlocked. Lock them only after they're closed.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've had my locks fail to disengage on a few occasions, and I'm still running the stock/OEM controller.

While this admittedly could just be coincidental and not truly relational at all, one thing that I've noticed is that you don't want to close the doors while they're locked, as doing so seems to mess up the linkages more so than closing them while they're unlocked. Lock them only after they're closed.

Even more important, DO NOT lock the doors when they are open. That really makes a mess of things. Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.

[NightFlyer]

Even more important, DO NOT lock the doors when they are open. That really makes a mess of things. Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.

Precisely - that's what I meant to say :biggrin:

[pezzonovante88]

Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.

I know all about that one! You just have to hope the passenger listens.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Even more important, DO NOT lock the doors when they are open. That really makes a mess of things. Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.

Is there a way to wire the door lock module to safe mode so that it can't lock the doors if the dome lights are on?

[Shark Pilot]

Is there a way to wire the door lock module to safe mode so that it can't lock the doors if the dome lights are on?

That's a cool idea actually though I don't think there is an electrical relationship between the two systems other than the two-pronged spring door trigger. Maybe someone else can chime in on this?

I have noticed that my door handle is a bit weaker. When I took my mother-in-law (the principle offender) to the train this morning it extends almost all the way up before the latch trigger is activated and the door opens. HOWEVER, from the inside and from the remote launcher it's business as usual. I'm assuming there is no way to adjust this without taking the door trim off? :wrenchin:

[DMCMW Dave]

Is there a way to wire the door lock module to safe mode so that it can't lock the doors if the dome lights are on?

No but it would be a very easy circuit to design and implement. One relay, and all the wiring could be done in the electrical compartment of the car. Factory should have done it this way, but knowing how engineers work together (NOT) I suspect the sparkies never expected this sort of linkage issue in the doors, and the mechanical guys never expected someone to lock the doors when they were in the air.

A better fix (but a lot more effort) is to modify the door latches so that this does not happen. It involves taking the latches out of the door and modifying all 4 of the internally so having the door unlatched does not inhibit the lock.

try this link:
https://xa.yimg.com/df/dmcnews/Modifying+DeLorean+door+locks.doc?token=qS9DxSRRoi weRnQS7U_yY3xBaR9l-q_gv3Maf_9lH7mAluKD3b0OhMTg27AcI9UJrwa1-2inAhxK4jgP9OVLeSCNAIFscmuAq831F61a2d1i7-ni8Br2nS2PhZTQJiwxacFu_CH_&type=download

or look here:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dmcnews/files
and find the link that says "modifying DeLorean Door Locks"


I suspect that this would have been implemented in the next major refresh of the car.

Also look for "Door release interlock" which is pretty much what you are describing but also inhibits unlocking with the car in gear. Which may not be such a hot idea.

[David T]

No but it would be a very easy circuit to design and implement. One relay, and all the wiring could be done in the electrical compartment of the car. Factory should have done it this way, but knowing how engineers work together (NOT) I suspect the sparkies never expected this sort of linkage issue in the doors, and the mechanical guys never expected someone to lock the doors when they were in the air.

A better fix (but a lot more effort) is to modify the door latches so that this does not happen. It involves taking the latches out of the door and modifying all 4 of the internally so having the door unlatched does not inhibit the lock.

try this link:
https://xa.yimg.com/df/dmcnews/Modifying+DeLorean+door+locks.doc?token=qS9DxSRRoi weRnQS7U_yY3xBaR9l-q_gv3Maf_9lH7mAluKD3b0OhMTg27AcI9UJrwa1-2inAhxK4jgP9OVLeSCNAIFscmuAq831F61a2d1i7-ni8Br2nS2PhZTQJiwxacFu_CH_&type=download

or look here:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dmcnews/files
and find the link that says "modifying DeLorean Door Locks"


I suspect that this would have been implemented in the next major refresh of the car.

Also look for "Door release interlock" which is pretty much what you are describing but also inhibits unlocking with the car in gear. Which may not be such a hot idea.

The whole Central Locking System could be done a LOT better. One of the bigger problems is when a passenger who is unfamiliar with a Delorean closes the door but both latches do not achieve 2nd locking position. Now the lock gets forced to try to lock the doors. Either by the passenger or, if the central locking system is active, by the driver. If everything is working as it should the system will try to unlock but eventually the linkage in the doors bends and it won't work right. Now you are set up for the passenger to be UNABLE to unlock one of the latches and now the door is stuck. Next we have the relay in the locking module burning and the contacts welding together forcing the doors to lock while killing the battery and burning up the solenoids. The whole locking system (mechanical AND electrical) in the doors is problematic and there is plenty of room for improvement. Over the years there have been many attempts but they have all been piecemeal trying to solve parts of the bigger problem. Don't forget the interlock in the inertia switch that is supposed to unlock the doors in an accident! Yea, it wouldn't have taken much to also interlock the dome lights. Now with computers we could put some switches in and have it all controlled MUCH better. On the subject of interlocks, the Delorean is the only car of it's vintage that I know of that you can start IN GEAR and do not have to hold the clutch pedal down! At least on the 5-speeds.

[DMCMW Dave]

, the Delorean is the only car of it's vintage that I know of that you can start IN GEAR and do not have to hold the clutch pedal down! At least on the 5-speeds.

It would be hard to hold the clutch pedal down on an automatic.

[NightFlyer]

It would be hard to hold the clutch pedal down on an automatic.

:hysterical:

[dn010]

I had a similar instance and the cause was that the original plastic handle was cracked and broken inside. If you're going inside the door, be sure to check the handle out - they are easy to remove to examine outside of the car. If one is indeed broken, DMCH makes metal ones now.


I have noticed that my door handle is a bit weaker.

[Jonathan]

DOOOD you're a fricken genius. That totally worked! I lubed everything up, but the door handle is weaker than it used to be. Opens great with remote door launcher, but still a little leary of the handle. Either way......you SAVED ME :notworthy:

Hey Shark Pilot,

Glad you got the door unlocked and sorted out.

Was curious what parts you lubed and what lubricant you used? Did you lube the parts accessible without opening up the door, like the latches and striker pins? I have the metal door handles, but sometimes releasing the door is not feeling as "well oiled" as I'd like and was looking for ideas.

[ALEXAKOS]

I don't see why the long talk?

The guy had his mother in law stuck in there!!

Why the hurry?


Let us discuss this issue when the summer is over:mooning:

[LordFly]

Even more important, DO NOT lock the doors when they are open. That really makes a mess of things. Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.

Really? I ALWAYS lock my doors by the lock switch on the drivers door while it's open, and the passenger one is closed. It works great because it automatically locks the passenger one. Never had an issue.....

[Shark Pilot]

Hey Shark Pilot,

Glad you got the door unlocked and sorted out.

Was curious what parts you lubed and what lubricant you used? Did you lube the parts accessible without opening up the door, like the latches and striker pins? I have the metal door handles, but sometimes releasing the door is not feeling as "well oiled" as I'd like and was looking for ideas.

I wish I could tell you I did the right thing, but I was in a hurry to get things working so she didn't feel so bad. It was my wife's mother and my wife HATES the car, but her mother LOVES it. Soooo...I used fricken WD-40 on the lock striker pins and latches. This is JUST A TEMP FIX until I can get some decent lube like hydraulic fluid (23699) or something similar. Basically just lubed the contact points and it works great still. I'm going to get some used hyd fluid from my work tomorrow. We use it all the time to lube aviation parts so I can't imagine it would be bad for the contact points on the door.

[Shark Pilot]

I had a similar instance and the cause was that the original plastic handle was cracked and broken inside. If you're going inside the door, be sure to check the handle out - they are easy to remove to examine outside of the car. If one is indeed broken, DMCH makes metal ones now.

So does this mean I have to get into the door and take apart the trim or can I access from the outside without tearing that all out? I'm at 2 of 3 for a GO on ways to open the door. The outside latch is just weak now, but still works. The inside latch and remote are working as advertised. :headscratch:

[dn010]

Yes, you would need to dig into the door in order to remove the handle. If you're uncomfortable working on that and it is all working right now then you might leave it alone and see what happens - you can PMCS it all day long (prior military myself) but obviously there is something going on in there that will require attention in the future :wiggle:




So does this mean I have to get into the door and take apart the trim or can I access from the outside without tearing that all out? I'm at 2 of 3 for a GO on ways to open the door. The outside latch is just weak now, but still works. The inside latch and remote are working as advertised. :headscratch:

[Shark Pilot]

Yes, you would need to dig into the door in order to remove the handle. If you're uncomfortable working on that and it is all working right now then you might leave it alone and see what happens - you can PMCS it all day long (prior military myself) but obviously there is something going on in there that will require attention in the future :wiggle:

HA!! Yeah well I'll PMCS it when I have time. This week I have to do a fuel accumulator, fuel filter and new injectors so when I have time I guess. The wife is gone this week so it's all car and house stuff while I have time, but I'm not sure I can get everything done before she gets back....:nervous:

[Shark Pilot]

Yes, you would need to dig into the door in order to remove the handle. If you're uncomfortable working on that and it is all working right now then you might leave it alone and see what happens - you can PMCS it all day long (prior military myself) but obviously there is something going on in there that will require attention in the future :wiggle:

THE FUTURE IS NOW. I spent 1.5 hours doing the Left Right Left Right B, A Start Start De Lorean equivalent to get the darn door to open. Finally it gave way and I lubed the lock levers again. HOWEVER, I have discovered an issue that I cannot gain clarity from the forums on this problem: When the door lock is engaged, and I try to unlock the door, I CANNOT open the passenger door, unless I do the De Lorean Door Dance. First time was 20 mins to get it loose, second time was 1.5 hours, third time?? Well lets just say the car is UNLOCKED and will stay that way. In an unlocked status the door operates perfectly ESPECIALLY with the remote door launchers. The outside handle is very weak, but still works. The spring tension on both inside and outside handles seems to have significantly weakened. Ideas? It's seriously pissing me off. I know it's not a Wings Aloft issue as they work great. It just feels like it's a mechanical problem, like a weakening of springs. Suggestions, ideally non-invasive ones, are welcome. I'll take the door apart if I have to, but maybe it's an easy outside handle fix? This problem didn't seem to happen until the outside handle just sort of got weaker, but the more this fails the more weak the spring tension on the inside handle gets as I actuate the sh*& out of it to get the door to open. Outside handle is useless during this process. Won't catch on anything. So to summarize, IF I lock the doors, then try to unlock, the passenger door will NOT unlock (though no issues with the driver side). This is EVERY TIME now. In the mean time, she'll stay unlocked... :hmm: :dunno:

[David T]

THE FUTURE IS NOW. I spent 1.5 hours doing the Left Right Left Right B, A Start Start De Lorean equivalent to get the darn door to open. Finally it gave way and I lubed the lock levers again. HOWEVER, I have discovered an issue that I cannot gain clarity from the forums on this problem: When the door lock is engaged, and I try to unlock the door, I CANNOT open the passenger door, unless I do the De Lorean Door Dance. First time was 20 mins to get it loose, second time was 1.5 hours, third time?? Well lets just say the car is UNLOCKED and will stay that way. In an unlocked status the door operates perfectly ESPECIALLY with the remote door launchers. The outside handle is very weak, but still works. The spring tension on both inside and outside handles seems to have significantly weakened. Ideas? It's seriously pissing me off. I know it's not a Wings Aloft issue as they work great. It just feels like it's a mechanical problem, like a weakening of springs. Suggestions, ideally non-invasive ones, are welcome. I'll take the door apart if I have to, but maybe it's an easy outside handle fix? This problem didn't seem to happen until the outside handle just sort of got weaker, but the more this fails the more weak the spring tension on the inside handle gets as I actuate the sh*& out of it to get the door to open. Outside handle is useless during this process. Won't catch on anything. So to summarize, IF I lock the doors, then try to unlock, the passenger door will NOT unlock (though no issues with the driver side). This is EVERY TIME now. In the mean time, she'll stay unlocked... :hmm: :dunno:

Hard to know exactly what your problem is from here. What I can suggest is that you remove both door latches, clean, lubricate and reinstall them. Do the whole door adjustment procedure AND make sure the anchor pins are adjusted so that both latches click simultaneously and both achieve 2nd locking position. Most of the time when a door jams it is because one latch is in 1st locking position and the other is in 2nd locking position. You should not be able to lock the door when this happens but if you force it you mess up the adjustments and can make it lock. BUT.. now you can't unlock it! Be careful inside the door, the exposed edges of the S/S are very sharp. Cover them with tape.

[DMCMW Dave]

Won't catch on anything. So to summarize, IF I lock the doors, then try to unlock, the passenger door will NOT unlock (though no issues with the driver side). This is EVERY TIME now. In the mean time, she'll stay unlocked... :hmm: :dunno:

Have you done the lock and latch procedure that's in the manual (it's one of the service bulletins)? The whole process, not just trying to adjust linkages to work.

[Shark Pilot]

Have you done the lock and latch procedure that's in the manual (it's one of the service bulletins)? The whole process, not just trying to adjust linkages to work.

Honestly no. I've been trying to put this off because I have NO IDEA what I'm doing. I can take stuff apart well enough and follow directions though. I just didn't want to take apart the whole interior trim to get to it because I've never had to work on this stuff before. I had to send it to PJ Grady to fix the engine/exhaust issues I was having after 5+ hours of me fumbling around the engine replacing this and inspecting that so I don't have a good track record with the DMC. I'm a SAAB guy so this car continues to defy my capabilities. :headscratch:

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Honestly no. I've been trying to put this off because I have NO IDEA what I'm doing. I can take stuff apart well enough and follow directions though. I just didn't want to take apart the whole interior trim to get to it because I've never had to work on this stuff before. I had to send it to PJ Grady to fix the engine/exhaust issues I was having after 5+ hours of me fumbling around the engine replacing this and inspecting that so I don't have a good track record with the DMC. I'm a SAAB guy so this car continues to defy my capabilities. :headscratch:
Hi Pat,
I just stumbled on this post and now I realize who it is. Remember I said your car locked itself on me once or twice and you said you had no prblems before? You should have mentioned the problem with the R/H door as it's probably causing both issues. I'm very good on door problems having spent 33 yers tweaking them I'm sure I could have handled any issues. I know it's hard for you to get back here but with the remote system you really need experience to tackle all the variables involved. For your own sake call me directly for assistence or figure a way to get it back here before you drive yourself crazy.

Rob Grady,
P.J.Grady Inc.

[Shark Pilot]

Hi Pat,
I just stumbled on this post and now I realize who it is. Remember I said your car locked itself on me once or twice and you said you had no prblems before? You should have mentioned the problem with the R/H door as it's probably causing both issues. I'm very good on door problems having spent 33 yers tweaking them I'm sure I could have handled any issues. I know it's hard for you to get back here but with the remote system you really need experience to tackle all the variables involved. For your own sake call me directly for assistence or figure a way to get it back here before you drive yourself crazy.

Rob Grady,
P.J.Grady Inc.

Rob,

I'll try to give you a call today. I still stand behind what I said about the remote system. It seems to be great and like I mentioned in the post it's a R/H door locking issue, but seems to be more of an OE component failure rather than the door launchers themselves. Remember the key fob battery was almost dead when you had it. Once I replaced it, I had no issues at all with the locking process. When unlocked they work great, and they lock appropriately, but as you know, you have been unf#$king the previous guy's "renovations" so I'm sure this is another nail in the coffin towards that. He probably didn't follow the adjustment procedure correctly. Either way I'll try and give you a call today. Still expect to see the car around March for that last engine issue and the shocks. :rolleyes1::reading: