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Jimmycxc
05-26-2014, 02:00 PM
With the time circuits in the way, I had to "move" the vents to get some air conditioning blowing on us in the hot Florida sun. I closed the center vents, disconnected the door vents and re-routed new tubing to feed the new vents installed. I used 2.5" circular vents and used a 2.5" hole saw to make the new holes. I'd like to get a 2-5/8" hole saw to be able to push the vents in flush. But here's what I got so far.

27638

Wife is much happier.
Patrick C
05-26-2014, 10:04 PM
Try Mitsubishi eclipse vents. I experimented with the ones you have and didn't like them. The Eclipse vents sit flush and look better in my opinion.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=25790&d=1393692361
Jimmycxc
05-27-2014, 10:22 PM
Very Nice! Do they fit in the same 2.5" hole and same size hose?
Spittybug
05-28-2014, 10:05 AM
+1 on the Eclipse vents. I did it too. Eliminating the door vents has improved the cooling in my car noticeably, even after I had sealed up the door vents.

Patrick, I really like how you've done the tablet in the console like that. The glare must be terrible though. I've gone around and around trying to find a way to mount a screen in the car but it's just so tough with the amount of sunshine our windshield lets in.

I've also been Googling to see if there is a way to control relays via either Bluetooth or hard wire connection from the tablet. I found a multi hundred dollar system (~$400 IIRC) and that's just out of the question. Work slowly progresses on my Raspberry Pi computer and touch screen, but learning Raspian well enough to get everything configured (touch screen is a bear that needs recompiling of the kernel) is proving challenging.
The piece I HAVE figured out is how to send commands to the relay board to actually switch the door locks, aux lights, rear defogger and door poppers.
Bitsyncmaster
05-28-2014, 10:15 AM
In the past, using RS-232 to connect a micro board to a PC was what I did. But RS-232 is getting harder to find in PCs because everyone is using USB. I have not done much with USB hardware or software but some micro chips have built in hardware for both USB and RS-232. Then your micro has simple software to turn on or off relays when it sees a command on the USB or RS-232.
Jimmycxc
06-01-2014, 03:52 PM
In the past, using RS-232 to connect a micro board to a PC was what I did. But RS-232 is getting harder to find in PCs because everyone is using USB. I have not done much with USB hardware or software but some micro chips have built in hardware for both USB and RS-232. Then your micro has simple software to turn on or off relays when it sees a command on the USB or RS-232.

If I take a week's vacation off work, can I come visit and learn from you? haha
Patrick C
06-01-2014, 05:04 PM
Very Nice! Do they fit in the same 2.5" hole and same size hose?
They sure do.
Patrick C
06-01-2014, 05:05 PM
Patrick, I really like how you've done the tablet in the console like that. The glare must be terrible though. I've gone around and around trying to find a way to mount a screen in the car but it's just so tough with the amount of sunshine our windshield lets in.

I threw a PowerSupport anti-glare screen protector on it and it looks great in direct sunlight now. Less fingerprints as well.
papanoel
06-02-2014, 12:22 AM
how difficult is it to reroute the vents?
Patrick C
06-02-2014, 06:22 PM
how difficult is it to reroute the vents?

The most difficult part, by far, is cutting the holes in the kneepads. Absolutely nerve-wracking.
Flicky
06-02-2014, 07:37 PM
What did you do on the driver's side?
Patrick C
06-02-2014, 07:39 PM
What did you do on the driver's side?

I put one vent in each kneepad.
Lenny
06-03-2014, 07:56 AM
Are you bringing your car to DCS I really want to see your car?
Patrick C
06-03-2014, 10:24 PM
Are you bringing your car to DCS I really want to see your car?

It will be there!
Jimmycxc
06-12-2014, 11:13 PM
The most difficult part, by far, is cutting the holes in the kneepads. Absolutely nerve-wracking.

Yup. I found it easier to drill from the back of the kneepad and as soon as you are through the plastic, you can rip out the padding and carefully cut the vinyl
Patrick C
06-13-2014, 12:44 AM
Yup. I found it easier to drill from the back of the kneepad and as soon as you are through the plastic, you can rip out the padding and carefully cut the vinyl

Exactly the method I used. Cut the plastic with a hole saw, cut the foam with a box cutter, then cut the vinyl.
artisticent
07-26-2014, 03:01 AM
Did you guys just duct tape the vent holes behind the stereo where the console vents would connect to? or something else to block the air from coming out in the center? or attach hosing from the existing center vent outlets and use that to run to the new inner knee pad locations?
Patrick C
07-26-2014, 07:31 AM
Did you guys just duct tape the vent holes behind the stereo where the console vents would connect to? or something else to block the air from coming out in the center? or attach hosing from the existing center vent outlets and use that to run to the new inner knee pad locations?

Disconnect the actuator rod so that those vents never open, and then use aluminum foil tape over the openings just in case any air leaks are there.