Window regulator & wiring

[Rich_NYS]

This is a replacement regulator, correct? The PO said both regulators were replaced before going into storage 11 years ago, then while in storage the passenger side stopped working. I believe this is a replacement regulator and I'm hoping it's still OK.

Also notice the wiring. I'm looking at the schematic and it shows slate/purple, slate/green for the driver's side....this pic is from the passenger side.


I'm replacing the drop glass and [hopefully] will find an easy fix for the motor not working. So far, I tested the two wires in the pic and they pass the continuity test so I'm not yet optimistic.

27643

[NightFlyer]

This is a replacement regulator, correct? The PO said both regulators were replaced before going into storage 11 years ago, then while in storage the passenger side stopped working. I believe this is a replacement regulator and I'm hoping it's still OK.

Also notice the wiring. I'm looking at the schematic and it shows slate/purple, slate/green for the driver's side....this pic is from the passenger side.


I'm replacing the drop glass and [hopefully] will find an easy fix for the motor not working. So far, I tested the two wires in the pic and they pass the continuity test so I'm not yet optimistic.

27643

Did you test the switch yet? That's always the place to start. If the other window is working, then swap the switches and see what happens.

You're going to miss that awesome custom etched glass :biggrin:

Best luck!

[Rich_NYS]

Did you test the switch yet? That's always the place to start. If the other window is working, then swap the switches and see what happens.

You're going to miss that awesome custom etched glass :biggrin:

Best luck!

I don't have the switch in the car, I left the console in storage but will pick it up tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I checked the switch when I first got the car, but don't recall exactly. I do notice a higher ohms reading compared to the driver's side regulator but not sure if that's relevant.


I'm planning to give that etched drop-glass back to the PO in excahnge for teh cubby box cover (if he finds it.) You know that drop-glass replacement was on the must-do list...lol!

[NightFlyer]

I don't have the switch in the car, I left the console in storage but will pick it up tomorrow. I'm pretty sure I checked the switch when I first got the car, but don't recall exactly. I do notice a higher ohms reading compared to the driver's side regulator but not sure if that's relevant.


I'm planning to give that etched drop-glass back to the PO in excahnge for teh cubby box cover (if he finds it.) You know that drop-glass replacement was on the must-do list...lol!

If you want to definitely rule the window out, give a direct 12v current, like Ed did on Wheeler Dealers when demonstrating the operation of the motor. That will tell you if the regulator is good or bad.



You could have legally changed your name to match that which was on the drop glass :hippo:

[Jonathan]

Rich, FWIW, when I had problems with my windows early in ownership, it turned out to be the switches and not something inside the door. The driver's switch was the worse of the two and wouldn't always put the window up or down unless you pressed the switch a couple times. I put new switches in and have not had any problems since.

[Rich_NYS]

Rich, FWIW, when I had problems with my windows early in ownership, it turned out to be the switches and not something inside the door. The driver's switch was the worse of the two and wouldn't always put the window up or down unless you pressed the switch a couple times. I put new switches in and have not had any problems since.

I'm really hoping it's the switch, I'm going to get the console from storage on my way home from work and will try the driver's side on it. I have the door apart to change the drop glass, so I started poking around at the regulator. I'm still curious about the wiring, the color code seems to match the schematic for the driver's side.

Is there something I can jump if I didn't have a known good switch to try?

[DMCMW Dave]

Is there something I can jump if I didn't have a known good switch to try?

Use the other switch.

It will take two jumpers to run the window up and down, as up and down require the switch to reverse the wiring i.e. exchange the two sides to the motor. At the switch green and black are the source feeds, you hook them to the two colored wires one way for up and reverse them for down.

[Rich_NYS]

It's a faulty switch, yo!

So, I can at least be glad the PO had the regulators replaced while at the same I'm thinking: "I have much better things to do besides change this ridiculous drop-glass!" -lol

[NightFlyer]

It's a faulty switch, yo!

So, I can at least be glad the PO had the regulators replaced while at the same I'm thinking: "I have much better things to do besides change this ridiculous drop-glass!" -lol

And that's why you always start your trouble shooting at the switch. Recently had a couple switch failures over on DMCToday as well - although one was a DMCH lighted improved/reproduction part.

I still say that you should have legally changed your name to match whatever it was that was etched into the drop glass :biggrin:

[Rich_NYS]

And that's why you always start your trouble shooting at the switch. Recently had a couple switch failures over on DMCToday as well - although one was a DMCH lighted improved/reproduction part.

I normally would, but in this case I didn't have the switch and I had the door apart so I started takin' a look around. 8)


I still say that you should have legally changed your name to match whatever it was that was etched into the drop glass :biggrin:

Hahaha...I still might, ya neva know!

[Rich_NYS]

The Road Knight has been officially de-commissioned:

27655 27656


I see on the OEM drop glass carrier there's a bracket that isn't on the replacement. It looks to me to be an improved design and I want to transfer it to the replacement.....any reason not to?

27657

27658

[NightFlyer]

The Road Knight has been officially de-commissioned:

27655 27656


I see on the OEM drop glass carrier there's a bracket that isn't on the replacement. It looks to me to be an improved design and I want to transfer it to the replacement.....any reason not to?

27657

27658

Wow - i had no idea it was that intricate, with a sword and everything :rock_on:

Fun stuff!

So, if you ever get a custom license plate, we all know what it's going to say - R KNIGHT 8)

I don't see why not - always use the best parts available to you :smile:

[Rich]

I see on the OEM drop glass carrier there's a bracket that isn't on the replacement. It looks to me to be an improved design and I want to transfer it to the replacement.....any reason not to?

The replacement glass assembly is stock/OE. The one you took off the car is a "PO-mod special". Looks like this was their solution to the carrier detaching from the front track.

No idea whether you should use it. Probably depends on whether the new glass comes off the track.

At least it's galvanized....

[Rich_NYS]

The replacement glass assembly is stock/OE. The one you took off the car is a "PO-mod special". Looks like this was their solution to the carrier detaching from the front track.

No idea whether you should use it. Probably depends on whether the new glass comes off the track.

At least it's galvanized....

I kinda like it, it looks purposeful!

[Rich_NYS]

I sprayed the faulty switch with contact cleaner and it's working fine now....another freebie electrical repair! :rock_on:

That leaves me with only one electrical gremlin left: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9682-Charging-issue&p=144846#post144846

[NightFlyer]

Good deal! :thumbup:

[Flash66]

Always reverse your switches for a simple test.


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