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Flicky
05-28-2014, 01:58 PM
Anyone know a replacement for this switch? Wire diagram looks like it is just making the ground. Mine is hopelessly broken beyond repair. I was trying to find a like replacement as a general part (amazon). I can't find it listed on the DMC parts list.

While we are talking switches, anyone know a good replacement for the door switches? I am thinking of going with magnetic switches. Why does the driver door have 2 and the pass door have 1?

Thanks

vps3922
05-28-2014, 02:11 PM
Anyone know a replacement for this switch? Wire diagram looks like it is just making the ground. Mine is hopelessly broken beyond repair. I was trying to find a like replacement as a general part (amazon). I can't find it listed on the DMC parts list.

While we are talking switches, anyone know a good replacement for the door switches? I am thinking of going with magnetic switches. Why does the driver door have 2 and the pass door have 1?

Thanks

The part number is Part #:101629 at DMCH. It is in the Interior Lights category.

$24.93 in the DMC Shop.

Hope that helps. ;)

DMCMW Dave
05-28-2014, 04:30 PM
Anyone know a replacement for this switch? Wire diagram looks like it is just making the ground. Mine is hopelessly broken beyond repair. I was trying to find a like replacement as a general part (amazon). I can't find it listed on the DMC parts list.

While we are talking switches, anyone know a good replacement for the door switches? I am thinking of going with magnetic switches. Why does the driver door have 2 and the pass door have 1?

Thanks

http://store.delorean.com/c-281-3-5-2-interior-door-lighting-system.aspx

Same as the glovebox light switch.

The second one on the driver door is for the key buzzer. Lazy designers. Weird because there are otherwise diodes all over the car.

Bitsyncmaster
05-28-2014, 05:35 PM
Anyone know a replacement for this switch? Wire diagram looks like it is just making the ground. Mine is hopelessly broken beyond repair. I was trying to find a like replacement as a general part (amazon). I can't find it listed on the DMC parts list.

While we are talking switches, anyone know a good replacement for the door switches? I am thinking of going with magnetic switches. Why does the driver door have 2 and the pass door have 1?

Thanks

Your other option is mercury tilt switches. I used these on my doors and someday will put one on the engine cover. Only thing with those are most are rated at 500 ma. so you need to have LEDs in the door lights.

Silverbullet
05-28-2014, 05:44 PM
Mine was gone... But I did not want it on all the time the lid was open... So I installed a Rocker Switch... I can turn it on anytime I want.

Craig

AugustneverEnds
05-29-2014, 12:42 AM
Special T carries one. http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html

I have this and it works fine and I even received it in a timely manner!! :wink:

Flicky
05-29-2014, 12:42 AM
Thank you guys. I ordered the switch from DMC. I like that idea of having a manual toggle switch in there too for the best of everything.



Your other option is mercury tilt switches. I used these on my doors and someday will put one on the engine cover. Only thing with those are most are rated at 500 ma. so you need to have LEDs in the door lights.

I saw that you had mercury switches on a different post. Do you ever get any issues with vibrations or bumps? I also saw a switch that used like a big BB that moves in a case, that would eliminate the potential for mercury falling on my head should a bump break the glass. Your ingenuity for using the mercury switch is what got me thinking about the magnetic switches. I figured it will be a pain to get wires up to the doors/headliner. My problem with the magnetic switches is I can't figure out "normally closed" vs "normally open". Is the normal when the magnet is there or not there?

Bitsyncmaster
05-29-2014, 03:22 AM
I saw that you had mercury switches on a different post. Do you ever get any issues with vibrations or bumps? I also saw a switch that used like a big BB that moves in a case, that would eliminate the potential for mercury falling on my head should a bump break the glass. Your ingenuity for using the mercury switch is what got me thinking about the magnetic switches. I figured it will be a pain to get wires up to the doors/headliner. My problem with the magnetic switches is I can't figure out "normally closed" vs "normally open". Is the normal when the magnet is there or not there?

No problems noted. Wires for doors are already there. Just ground the door lights and remove the switch. You want a normally open switch which would be the most common magnet switch. My glass switches are sealed in epoxy..

lazabby
05-30-2014, 10:47 AM
What I and a couple of other Houston owners have done to increase illumination in the engine compartment is to go to a local auto store and buy two LED strips that are about 1' long. They have a sticky backing and you can stick them to the underside of the engine cover. Wire them to the engine lighting system with a toggle switch. They do an amazing job at illuminating the engine area at night.

vps3922
05-30-2014, 10:59 AM
What I and a couple of other Houston owners have done to increase illumination in the engine compartment is to go to a local auto store and buy two LED strips that are about 1' long. They have a sticky backing and you can stick them to the underside of the engine cover. Wire them to the engine lighting system with a toggle switch. They do an amazing job at illuminating the engine area at night.

That is a neat idea. Any pictures?

lazabby
05-30-2014, 11:41 AM
That is a neat idea. Any pictures?

I meant to get pictures the other night and post them on here. It actually is a great idea and works great. The engine is really lit up with this set up. I'll try and get pictures tonight to post here. The wires are plugged into the plunger switch and a toggle switch is set up where the current engine light sits. The engine light is sacrificed in this set up.

lazabby
05-30-2014, 06:59 PM
Here are pictures of the set up I have. The LED strip goes under the hood. I have mine going parallel to one another. Some might like a "V" shape. The strips are about one foot long. I believe I picked them up at Autozone. The wires are connected to the plunger switch. You can leave them like that so that they automatically come on when you lift the cover. I have a toggle switch where the current engine light is.

When it gets dark I'll take some pictures to show how it looks.

lazabby
05-30-2014, 11:17 PM
As promised, here are pictures of the engine bay using only the LED lights. There were no other lights.

jawn101
05-31-2014, 03:37 PM
As promised, here are pictures of the engine bay using only the LED lights. There were no other lights.

Do you think those wires will hold up to the engine heat? Just curious.

lazabby
05-31-2014, 04:17 PM
Do you think those wires will hold up to the engine heat? Just curious.

There have been no problems.

vps3922
06-04-2014, 12:18 PM
As promised, here are pictures of the engine bay using only the LED lights. There were no other lights.

That is awesome! I always thought that the one light in a corner does not really make sense if you cannot see the other side of the engine. That is looking great!

I will put it onto the list of possible upgrades. :biggrin:

SS Spoiler
06-04-2014, 02:29 PM
I mounted two spotlights to the underside of engine cover. Really lights up everything.


Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

Farrar
06-04-2014, 02:56 PM
Two 6-element LEDs in festoon sockets. Toggle switch in place of pin switch.

27813

GS450-Junkie
09-18-2016, 11:45 PM
Rather than just starting yet another thread, I'll post here since it's related to the topic. My engine bay light is acting weird. I put in a new super bright led....and this is what it's doing:

When I open the engine cover it doesn't go on. When I jiggle the bundle of wires by the resistor, it goes on. Sometimes it stays on, sometimes it doesn't. If it goes out, it always comes on when the lower cover clicks into place in the cutout frame that supports the cover in the open position. Sometimes when the light isn't coming on, I push the metal frame that holds the resistor with my hand and then the light comes on. When I let go of the frame it goes off. When I play with the wires near the resistor, it goes on and off. But not just a ground wire, all the wires. Black, blue, white, doesn't matter. Seems like if I touch anything in that area the light goes on or off or flickers.

Led is super bright, but disappointing as it throws not only bright white light on the engine, but also blue circles of polka dot light. Maybe since it's passing thru the light cover? Bizarre.

Here's another question....I see a relay near the resistor. Looks just like the ones in the fuse box area. What is it for and should it be replaced?

I also replaced the bulb in the glove box with an led, but it doesn't work, and my new led courtesy lights are also not working correctly. They go on when I turn them on and off, but don't respond to door action.

jawn101
09-18-2016, 11:58 PM
Rather than just starting yet another thread, I'll post here since it's related to the topic. My engine bay light is acting weird. I put in a new super bright led....and this is what it's doing:

When I open the engine cover it doesn't go on. When I jiggle the bundle of wires by the resistor, it goes on. Sometimes it stays on, sometimes it doesn't. If it goes out, it always comes on when the lower cover clicks into place in the cutout frame that supports the cover in the open position. Sometimes when the light isn't coming on, I push the metal frame that holds the resistor with my hand and then the light comes on. When I let go of the frame it goes off. When I play with the wires near the resistor, it goes on and off. But not just a ground wire, all the wires. Black, blue, white, doesn't matter. Seems like if I touch anything in that area the light goes on or off or flickers.

Led is super bright, but disappointing as it throws not only bright white light on the engine, but also blue circles of polka dot light. Maybe since it's passing thru the light cover? Bizarre.

Here's another question....I see a relay near the resistor. Looks just like the ones in the fuse box area. What is it for and should it be replaced?

I also replaced the bulb in the glove box with an led, but it doesn't work, and my new led courtesy lights are also not working correctly. They go on when I turn them on and off, but don't respond to door action.

The relay in the engine compartment is the Ignition Relay. Replace it if you like, it is exposed to more of the elements than the ones in the electrical compartment but isn't really involved in the circuit you're describing.

Do you have Dave M's solid state courtesy light module? I had some issues with putting an LED in the glove box because the unit uses resistance on that leg of the circuit for programming, and the LED lowered the overall circuit resistance to the point where it didn't work properly. I figured since I only open the glove box if I get a ticket or need my fire extinguisher (so far neither situation has ever come up, thankfully) or when I get a new registration/insurance card every year that it really didn't matter.

As for the switch working when you press on the bracket, the switch isn't electrically grounded through that bracket or anything so what is most likely happening is the pressure is warping the case of the switch and causing the internals to make intermittent contact. They are kind of crappy switches.

Bitsyncmaster
09-19-2016, 05:34 AM
Rather than just starting yet another thread, I'll post here since it's related to the topic. My engine bay light is acting weird. I put in a new super bright led....and this is what it's doing:

When I open the engine cover it doesn't go on. When I jiggle the bundle of wires by the resistor, it goes on. Sometimes it stays on, sometimes it doesn't. If it goes out, it always comes on when the lower cover clicks into place in the cutout frame that supports the cover in the open position. Sometimes when the light isn't coming on, I push the metal frame that holds the resistor with my hand and then the light comes on. When I let go of the frame it goes off. When I play with the wires near the resistor, it goes on and off. But not just a ground wire, all the wires. Black, blue, white, doesn't matter. Seems like if I touch anything in that area the light goes on or off or flickers.

Led is super bright, but disappointing as it throws not only bright white light on the engine, but also blue circles of polka dot light. Maybe since it's passing thru the light cover? Bizarre.

Here's another question....I see a relay near the resistor. Looks just like the ones in the fuse box area. What is it for and should it be replaced?

I also replaced the bulb in the glove box with an led, but it doesn't work, and my new led courtesy lights are also not working correctly. They go on when I turn them on and off, but don't respond to door action.

Did your lights work before you changed them with new LEDs? Supperbright makes some LEDs with switching regulators which will mess up the logic on my dome light unit if you have my unit.

Elvis
09-20-2016, 03:30 PM
It's a cheap $5 GM Switch - used in many cars.

For Europeans - Opel Corsa Glovebox switch...



Anyone know a replacement for this switch? Wire diagram looks like it is just making the ground. Mine is hopelessly broken beyond repair. I was trying to find a like replacement as a general part (amazon). I can't find it listed on the DMC parts list.

While we are talking switches, anyone know a good replacement for the door switches? I am thinking of going with magnetic switches. Why does the driver door have 2 and the pass door have 1?

Thanks