Hazard Switch Light stopped working

[BABIS]

Hi guys,

I recently noticed that my hazard switch light stopped working.. the switch itself still works.

I tried to replace the bulb with a led and then with a incandescent bulb but I got no light at all..

I opened the switch and cleaned and lubed all the contacts, what it could be the problem?

Best regards

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you mean the light in the switch stopped working or the hazard lights don't work?

[BABIS]

Do you mean the light in the switch stopped working or the hazard lights don't work?

sorry for the confusion, I mean the small light inside the switch.. hazard lights (and side markers) work fine.

[Patrick C]

I am having the same exact problem.

[D Knight]

Check the fuse. If the led is reversed during install it will pop the fuse.


-D Knight-

[mburshtain]

I am having the same exact problem.

Same here, exactly the same problem!

[Mark D]

Try jiggling the connector around at the switch first. If that doesn't solve the problem check the bulb to see if it's burnt out. I was using a cheap red LED in there for a while and when it went out I thought for sure there was some other issue but it was just a bad LED.

If neither of those things solve the problem then I'd try the fuse, but after that point I really don't know what else to suggest.

[Ron]

$.02

Electrically speaking, reversing an LED type bulb wouldn't cause a fuse to blow (While a regular bulb will pass current both ways, an LED will simply block flow in one direction. IE it will burn or not).

Check: battery for 12V => Fuse #8 => 12v on the Red/Orange wire at the switch => Bulb & contacts => Ground on the Black wire at the switch.

[David T]

$.02

Electrically speaking, reversing an LED type bulb wouldn't cause a fuse to blow (While a regular bulb will pass current both ways, an LED will simply block flow in one direction. IE it will burn or not).

Check: battery for 12V => Fuse #8 => 12v on the Red/Orange wire at the switch => Bulb & contacts => Ground on the Black wire at the switch.

You really don't need an LED there. Try putting it in the other way. Try the ordinary bulb again too. Could be just a dirty contact in the switch. The fuse has nothing to do with this if the hazard lights still flash.

[Ron]

The fuse has nothing to do with this if the hazard lights still flash.
Actually, the Hazard Switch (and hazard lights) are on Fuse #6, but its Bulb is on Fuse #8.

[SIMid]

Wow!

Mine as well!

Had a LED in there and stopped illuminating (maybe never worked as I hardly drove the car at night). Bought a standard bulb to test, but doesn't work either, $5 down the drain.

Must be the switch as everyone has the same problem.

[Rich]

Must be the switch as everyone has the same problem.

The design of this switch's bulb mount may be identical to the design of the mount in the headlight switch in which case the problem may be some light corrosion, but maybe not where you'd expect it. In the HL switch the two brass leads that the bulb's external wires are pressed against are not connected directly to the adjacent brass contacts. It is merely a spring contact between those two pairs of brass leads and with a little corrosion the circuit opens where they are supposed to touch together.

To verify without disassembly try a continuity check from the appropriate spades on the back of the hazard sw. to the bulb leads after pulling off the front cap/cover and taking the bulb out. One or both may be open.

The options at that point are replacing the switch or tearing it down, cleaning and reassembly. A teardown also allows a check of all the other contacts inside the switch in case the open is somewhere else.

[mburshtain]

I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned the brass and replaced the light bטlb... still nothing...
BTW, if it was fuse number 8 that cause the issue you would have many other issues such as no license plate light and no cigar lighter lamp etc.
Next step would be to replace the switch?

[Rich]

I removed the switch, took it apart, cleaned the brass and replaced the light bטlb... still nothing...
BTW, if it was fuse number 8 that cause the issue you would have many other issues such as no license plate light and no cigar lighter lamp etc.
Next step would be to replace the switch?

Interesting. If all of the brass parts were in place and all of them were in good contact with each other and if the switch slide contacts were OK then you should have seen continuity in two halves of the switch circuit, from each of the 2 spades at the plug end of the switch up to each of the 2 bulb contacts. Then, with 12V +/- at the correct spades and a good bulb against the terminals the light should work. You can run a continuity check on the bulb to make sure it is OK. Also be sure that the bendy wires that are bent 180deg at the base of the bulb are clean and in the right place. The whole thing is a tad tricky but that's how they were built.

Yes, your alternative is replacing the switch as long as you know that your wiring is OK.

[Ron]

With so many having problems chasing the bulb problem, I updated the schematic found in the Resources Section to include the Bulb Wiring, etc. Hope it helps:

27715
Make sure the Black Wire at pin #7 has Ground.

======

Note: The feed for the Hazard Switch Bulb (BLUE trace in pic below) comes from Fuse #8, which comes from the Main Lighting Switch! (So check connections there if the fuse's feed is dead):
Ignore the Red (hot all times) and Yellow (Hot with Key) lines.

27714

===

The path is: Battery (+) => ... => Main Lighting Switch => RG Wire => Fuse #8 => RO Wire => Hazard Switch Terminal #3 => Bulb => Hazard Switch Terminal #7 => B Wire => Ground ==> Battery (-)

If you are having problems try this:
Using an "Ice Pick" Light Probe (NOT a meter), connect its ground clip to the Battery (-), work down the list above (in order!) until the Ice Pick does not come ON -- You just passed the problem component/connection.

===

If no one sees any errors (comments solicited), I'll get the original replaced....

[mburshtain]

Today I installed a new hazard light switch which I bought from DMC Texas and .... still the light does not come on. :(
It must be a ground issue, but where?

[Rich]

still the light does not come on. :(
It must be a ground issue, but where?

So you have verified that the new switch lights up when you apply 12V +/- to each of the terminals that should light it? And you have 12V+ to the switch? Did not look upstream in this thread to find out...

First thing to check is the plug/socket setup. Find the ground wire out of it, then probe into it a few inches back from the plug (poke your probe thru the insulation) and make sure it's grounded there. If it is grounded then your problem is at the socket or plug.

Would be odd, but possible, for only that wire to be a bad ground since each of the harness ground points gathers a few of them together.

[mburshtain]

So you have verified that the new switch lights up when you apply 12V +/- to each of the terminals that should light it? And you have 12V+ to the switch? Did not look upstream in this thread to find out...

First thing to check is the plug/socket setup. Find the ground wire out of it, then probe into it a few inches back from the plug (poke your probe thru the insulation) and make sure it's grounded there. If it is grounded then your problem is at the socket or plug.

Would be odd, but possible, for only that wire to be a bad ground since each of the harness ground points gathers a few of them together.

Thank you Rich, this would be my next step.
I will update you all soon.

[mburshtain]

I managed to resolve this mystery.
Using a multimeter I confirmed that the plug is working correctly - Red on pin 3 + Black on pin 7 = 12V.
Using a A23 Battery, 12 Volt - I checked that the hazard light is working. It did not work due to rust on the copper connector, after I cleaned it, it started working.

Then, I installed the hazard light plug and tested, everything was fine.

Keep in mind that the light is a little dim so doing such work outside of your garage you may not notice it started working.

Anyway, all is good.

[Ron]

:thumbup2:

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I'm chasing this same issue with the tiny bulb in the hazard switch. This is thread has great troubleshooting information!

The incandescent light didn't work when I bought the car, but was not burned out. I have a red LED replacement. I was able to fix the bulb's connection in the switch using the information above, so that it now lights with an external 12V on the correct pins. I verified the ground works on the connector, and both fuses are good. I'm currently verifying the the red/orange wire has 12V, as it still doesn't work when connected to the car.

43428

A couple questions:

1) What is the normal operation of the bulb that I should look for? I.E. Does it light up and stay on with the key on accessory? Does it only light when the switch is on? Does it blink with the operation of the hazard lights when they are on?

2) What is the function of the blue square in the picture that is located between the bulb and the area the lights up on the knob? Is it a diffuser, reducer, or what? With the LED installed, it seems to completely block the light!

3) Is there a VIN specific operation of this bulb, or should it work on all cars?

Thanks!

[mburshtain]

Hi there,

I'm chasing this same issue with the tiny bulb in the hazard switch. This is thread has great troubleshooting information!

The incandescent light didn't work when I bought the car, but was not burned out. I have a red LED replacement. I was able to fix the bulb's connection in the switch using the information above, so that it now lights with an external 12V on the correct pins. I verified the ground works on the connector, and both fuses are good. I'm currently verifying the the red/orange wire has 12V, as it still doesn't work when connected to the car.

43428

A couple questions:

1) What is the normal operation of the bulb that I should look for? I.E. Does it light up and stay on with the key on accessory? Does it only light when the switch is on? Does it blink with the operation of the hazard lights when they are on?

2) What is the function of the blue square in the picture that is located between the bulb and the area the lights up on the knob? Is it a diffuser, reducer, or what? With the LED installed, it seems to completely block the light!

3) Is there a VIN specific operation of this bulb, or should it work on all cars?

Thanks!


The light should turn on when you press the headlight switch. It will stay on as long as long as the headlights are on.
The blue square lens provide the blue light effect when the light it on. I agree that it blocks the light...
I believe the design of the hazard switch is the same across all VINs.

Keep in mind that you need a dark environment to see the light as it has very week illumination .

[DMC-81]

The light should turn on when you press the headlight switch. It will stay on as long as long as the headlights are on.
The blue square lens provide the blue light effect when the light it on. I agree that it blocks the light...
I believe the design of the hazard switch is the same across all VINs.

Keep in mind that you need a dark environment to see the light as it has very week illumination .

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind as continue testing. Still no dice on power to the red/orange wire.

I removed the blue filter and the triangle now shows red with external power.

43483

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

Just an update to my power to the red wire problem. When I re-installed my console today, the hazard switch bulb began working. I figure the power is routed through the dash dimmer unit as they have the same color wires, and when I connected the dimmer, it lit. Now it works beautifully...

44053

Thanks everyone for the help.

Cheers,

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi there,

Just an update to my power to the red wire problem. When I re-installed my console today, the hazard switch bulb began working. I figure the power is routed through the dash dimmer unit as they have the same color wires, and when I connected the dimmer, it lit. Now it works beautifully...

44053

Thanks everyone for the help.

Cheers,

Yes that dimmer is a junction point for a few of the light wires in the console.

[DMC5180]

Dana,

Did you replace your clock? I'm not used to seeing 15:32 .


Dennis

[DMC-81]

Dana,

Did you replace your clock? I'm not used to seeing 15:32 .


Dennis

Hi Dennis,

That's the test clock from Mario. It includes a military time mode - my favorite. I really like the clock.

Cheers,

[Mario]

Hi Dennis,

That's the test clock from Mario. It includes a military time mode - my favorite. I really like the clock.

Cheers,

How funny, I'd totally forgotten I'd sent you one, so I saw that photo and thought "Huh - they must have an aftermarket clock." Indeed you do, it's my clock! :D

[spikeygg]

Saw this thread and I thought I should chime in since I've been installing LEDs in my console and I found something concerning.

I purchased the recommended binnacle LEDs along with the hazard switch, headlight switch and cigarette lighter LEDs from Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea (http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html). Anyway, the LEDs arrived tonight and I had such a hard time getting the original bulbs out of the hazard and headlight switches that I wanted to be sure that I oriented the LEDs correctly the first time.

I got the schematic and my DMM. I took a good long look at the plugs and probed out the switches. What I eventually noticed was that half of the switch where the little light plugs in is power (red/orange) and the other half is ground (black). The would be okay if the rub-plates were oriented 90 degrees but the way they are oriented makes it looks like installing the LEDs I got would short power to ground on both leads of the LED!!!

45139

The leads on my LEDs wrapped all the way around the wedge. I don't know if this is a standard or not but I checked the wedge BULBS I took out of the switches and their leads only covered one side if the wedge. Here's a couple comparison photos so you can see what I'm talking about:
45135 45136

In the picture of the switch you can see how the power and ground are oriented, the wedge of the bulb would be horizontal in this picture meaning that both leads on the LED would be shorting power to ground...

I worried about the orientation and these new LEDs causing a potential fire inside the switch so I modified the wire by snipping off the long leads of the LED:
45137 45138

I didn't realize this but the diode option on my DMM actually generates enough current to lightly illuminate the LED so when I discovered this, I used it to verify that they were both installed correctly. Then to get the "full effect" I took them out and put the leads directly on a 12V battery and wow, they're bright. However, I reinstalled that little blue cover on both switches but the red LED I got for the hazard wasn't bright enough to shine through it so I pulled it out and it lights up nicely without it.

[papanoel]

Didn't want to make a new thread...

Is it possible to replace the headlight and hazard switch bulbs without removing the Ac Panel?

[BABIS]

Didn't want to make a new thread...

Is it possible to replace the headlight and hazard switch bulbs without removing the Ac Panel?

yes! you just remove the switch caps and there is a light blue plastic filter to remove, under that there is the small bulb

[papanoel]

yes! you just remove the switch caps and there is a light blue plastic filter to remove, under that there is the small bulb

Thanks. Picking up some LEDs from superbrightleds.com.