OverlandMan
06-01-2014, 08:09 PM
Before I start to explain things, I want to warn that this thread has a good chance to become lengthy... so apologies ahead of time.
BACKGROUND
I've had my car for about 2 years. To the best of my knowledge it's a stock setup (original motor w/ K-Jet, ect.) Last September I had a 20-30 second spot fire in the proximity of cylinder 4 on top of the cylinder head (under the ISM and around the #4 injector and #4 plug + wire. Just prior to the fire, the car was mis-firing and running like crap, which it had never done before.
Over the winter and spring, I replaced the following:
Plugs & plug wires
Distributor cap & rotor
All fuel lines
Banjo bolts and copper washers
Mixture unit seal
Injector seals and clips
CURRENT STATUS & PROBLEM
Last weekend I finally had enough time to get the final fuel return line connected (the PIA one with the compression fitting that sends fuel back to the accumulator and/or tank). I tried to flow test all the injectors but my battery was dead from sitting over the winter and wouldn't take a charge.
This weekend I picked up a new battery and tried to resume the flow testing. That's when I noticed the following problems:
The ballast resistor is so hot that I burned my finger on it.
I noticed a spade w/o a connector on the ballast resistor (see pic)
There's another component (pictured) that appears to be a vacuum switch or something that is also warm but not scalding like the ballast resistor
The Idle Speed Motor was buzzing/humming and vibrating
The ignition coil was warm but not hot or scalding
The ECU was not warm or hot but there are some interesting connections or lack there of (PO hack wiring or stock? --> see pic)
It should be noted that I had the ignition key switched to the run position when this occurred. I also had the RPM relay jumped (between 30 and 87) using a toggle switch. Even with the jumper switch off the ISM was still humming and vibrating. First thing I did was disconnect the battery and shut off the ignition key. Then I read my technical service manual and took some pictures. Now that I'm thinking through this, it makes a little sense in that with regards to the spot fire last September, I only cured one problem... the fuel leak. I never found out what sparked it but I'm starting to guess it was one of these components. I figured I'd get the community's input here as I'm not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated. Here are the pics for reference.
277712777227773
BACKGROUND
I've had my car for about 2 years. To the best of my knowledge it's a stock setup (original motor w/ K-Jet, ect.) Last September I had a 20-30 second spot fire in the proximity of cylinder 4 on top of the cylinder head (under the ISM and around the #4 injector and #4 plug + wire. Just prior to the fire, the car was mis-firing and running like crap, which it had never done before.
Over the winter and spring, I replaced the following:
Plugs & plug wires
Distributor cap & rotor
All fuel lines
Banjo bolts and copper washers
Mixture unit seal
Injector seals and clips
CURRENT STATUS & PROBLEM
Last weekend I finally had enough time to get the final fuel return line connected (the PIA one with the compression fitting that sends fuel back to the accumulator and/or tank). I tried to flow test all the injectors but my battery was dead from sitting over the winter and wouldn't take a charge.
This weekend I picked up a new battery and tried to resume the flow testing. That's when I noticed the following problems:
The ballast resistor is so hot that I burned my finger on it.
I noticed a spade w/o a connector on the ballast resistor (see pic)
There's another component (pictured) that appears to be a vacuum switch or something that is also warm but not scalding like the ballast resistor
The Idle Speed Motor was buzzing/humming and vibrating
The ignition coil was warm but not hot or scalding
The ECU was not warm or hot but there are some interesting connections or lack there of (PO hack wiring or stock? --> see pic)
It should be noted that I had the ignition key switched to the run position when this occurred. I also had the RPM relay jumped (between 30 and 87) using a toggle switch. Even with the jumper switch off the ISM was still humming and vibrating. First thing I did was disconnect the battery and shut off the ignition key. Then I read my technical service manual and took some pictures. Now that I'm thinking through this, it makes a little sense in that with regards to the spot fire last September, I only cured one problem... the fuel leak. I never found out what sparked it but I'm starting to guess it was one of these components. I figured I'd get the community's input here as I'm not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated. Here are the pics for reference.
277712777227773