Replaced cold air intake hose, now car wont start.

[gamerguy51]

I recently replaced my cold/hot intake hose(the paper one) and now the car won't start. It tries to crank but doesn't catch. What could I do to keep it from starting? Is the butterfly valve stuck? Help!!!

[NightFlyer]

Sounds like you knocked something else loose or didn't reconnect everything that you removed for access, as the air intake hose wouldn't affect starting at all (assuming that the air intake pathway isn't being blocked by anything at all).

Pull the air cleaner assembly/box and try starting the car without it - if it still doesn't start, then it has nothing to do with air intake pathway. If it does, then you at least know where to continue looking for your problem and remedy it.

Without knowing more, that's the best I got for you.

Best luck :thumbup:

[Michael]

Like Josh said it's probably ccoincidence but check the areas you were around. Check the frequency valve and make sure the plug is tight. Check the idle microswitch plugs on the back of the switch itself and the plugs on the wiring harness. Check the idle and throttle rest screws are still there and haven't been knocked around or the stops bent. Also make sure the throttle plate is closing completely.

The only thing out of all that would probably cause the car not to start at all is the frequency valve unplugged..anything else and you would at least get a hit but visually check it anyway. After that just assume it's coincidence and go about diagnosing normally. Might want to start with the coil feed wire connection from the drivers side firewall...that plug is not very tight and has been known to just come loose without any help.

[Dangermouse]

I am confused by the phrase "the paper one" in describing the cold air intake. The stock one is a slinky looking flexible metal "dryer hose" type tube. The "performance" one is the same thing but in black plastic. Neither one would be thought of as 'paper'.

Are you talking about something different? (or am I?)

[Mark D]

I am confused by the phrase "the paper one" in describing the cold air intake. The stock one is a slinky looking flexible metal "dryer hose" type tube. The "performance" one is the same thing but in black plastic. Neither one would be thought of as 'paper'.

Are you talking about something different? (or am I?)

The stovepipe (hot side) of the stock intake is metal but after the hot/cold air mix the flexible tube leading into the intake box is a fiberous type material that feels paper-ish. Item 13 on the diagram, PN 105927.

http://store.delorean.com/c-333-1-4-0-air-inlet-systemair-cleaner-assembly.aspx

[Jonathan]

I found a couple older pictures showing the paper versions.

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When I first got my car, it had both ducts in the paper version. The top one, a little blacker in colour, narrow and long, goes from the 3-way valve to the manifold stove connection. The wider and shorter and lighter coloured one is in the lower position, going from the 3-way valve to the connection on the bottom of the air filter housing (inlet).

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I replaced the top paper one with the metal duct one (silver shiny one) after the first year or so with the car.

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A couple years after that I replaced all of it including the 3-way valve and went with the cold air in only arrangement (plastic not paper).

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[Dangermouse]

I did not know that. Thanks.

[SS Spoiler]

Jim Reeves says toss out the "thermo stove" and attendant piping and connect air cleaner directly to intake hole elbow in pontoon. It only adds a restriction and it reacts too slow. You won't miss it.

[gamerguy51]

I recently replaced my cold/hot intake hose(the paper one) and now the car won't start. It tries to crank but doesn't catch. What could I do to keep it from starting? Is the butterfly valve stuck? Help!!!

So i removed the air filter. cleaned the contacts on the frequency valve, jumped the rpm relay and heard a humming. I smell gas(have half a tank) and hear the fuel pump charging. My inertia switch is down. There seems to be a louder than normal buzzing from the ignition coil, but I can't remember if that is normal. I've only owned this car for a month. Any tips guys?

http://youtu.be/OLfzYMLXkc4

[Jonathan]

Can you post a close up picture of just the ballast resistor? Would like to see the wiring connections on it more clearly.

Can you confirm each of the bulkhead connectors is good and tight?

Here's the diagrams:

2780427805

On the bulkhead connectors, the one marked 53 and 54 looks like it is at a bit of an odd angle in your video. Maybe it's not quite in all the way? Do you normally have a cover on that corner electrical area? A cover would help ensure things don't get bumped.

[Flash66]

Your coil shouldn't buzz. It's possible, by coincidence either your coil is cracked and arcing or arcing internally which has nothing to do with you changing the hose. Just bad luck dude. We've all been there. Pull a spark plug and put the wire back on it. While someone turns the key, see if you're getting spark. Because you smell gas, it's a dead giveaway that fuel isn't getting burned. If there's no spark, go to autozone and pickup a shiny chrome accel coil for 39 bucks. You don't have to do anything to the ballast resistor with this coil. It's plug and play, a decent upgrade that works very well and readily available cheap! Good luck!


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[gamerguy51]

So i removed the air filter. cleaned the contacts on the frequency valve, jumped the rpm relay and heard a humming. I smell gas(have half a tank) and hear the fuel pump charging. My inertia switch is down. There seems to be a louder than normal buzzing from the ignition coil, but I can't remember if that is normal. I've only owned this car for a month. Any tips guys?

http://youtu.be/OLfzYMLXkc4

I bought a new coil but couldn't fit the old boot over the new one so I just cleaned all connections then snapped them together. On a whim I tried to turn it over and it literally caught in 1 second. Fired right up. I guess it was a bad connection after all. Thanks guys!