Problem with single key lock system

[Blackie]

Hi All,

Quite some time ago, i converted my car over from the two key system to the one key system from DMC.

I have noticed that the door lock seems to be pulling in on the panel (see photos).

Apologies for the poor quality, this is the best i have, but you get the idea.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff162/holdnon/28thJuly033.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff162/holdnon/28thJuly036.jpg

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff162/holdnon/28thJuly034.jpg

Have i done something wrong here, or is this the same on all cars that have the new 1 key system

Thanks in advance

Paul

[WelmoedJ]

My later car has the one key locking system.
I haven't noticed the "pulling in" on my doors.

Seems to me there a lot of strain on the lock.
Does your car have the black supporting ring on the outside?
Do you fave to use a lot of force to turn the lock?
If so, that may cause the "pulling in" especially if your door skin is thinner than other doors.
(That merely an assumption, not a fact).

If you need to keep the key in unlocking position to open the door, then your mechanism is not working properly and this also may cause strain.

[sean]

Think you could post a cleaner pic? When you installed the new tumblers did you install that backing clip that holds the tumbler in place? I have not experienced this in the tumblers I've installed.

[Blackie]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies.

@ Welmoed - I am not sure what you mean by the black ring. The new locks came with a soft rubber ring that i slipped onto the barrell before i placed it into the hole in the door. Is this what you mean?

@ Sean - I will try and get a better picture. My camera takes crap shots in the dark, light reflection in the dark is the only way i can get the problem to show. I did install the retaining clip on the back, i was thinking that this may be too tight?

Thanks

[Fox2506]

Any update on this? I just bought these locks and haven't put them in yet.

And what did you do about modifying the hole in the door? Did you get the jig from DMCH?

[WelmoedJ]

@ Welmoed - I am not sure what you mean by the black ring. The new locks came with a soft rubber ring that i slipped onto the barrell before i placed it into the hole in the door. Is this what you mean?


Apoligize for overlooking the fact you replied with a question.
Yes, the black ring is the - new and so it's soft - ring I mentioned.
On older cars it's quite hard due to age :)

To reply to your latest question (Sunday 25th?) I have never seen a jig, so I can't give you any insight on this.

On the deformation of the door:
If you know somebody who is experienced in working with SS, have him straighten the lock area before installing the new lock.
If you're going to try yourself, use wood, perhaps a small metal plate and a pair of pliers to make the area more decent before installing the new lock.
Patience and prudence can do a lot of good for you: ask both to assist. ;)

[David T]

The damage is because someone tried to force the lock cylinder into the door. This method works for many GM vehicles but won't work on a Delorean. All it does is mess up the sheet metal. The jig is to file notches for the 1 key cylinders. The way to fix the damage is to hammer and dolly the metal back into shape. Requires opening the door so you can hit it against a dolly held inside the door.
David Teitelbaum

[Blackie]

Hi Guys,

I used no jig to file the new notches, i just carefully lined the barrell up, marked with a pencil and slowly filed until the lock barrel slipped nicely into the door. Stressful times!

I definately did not force the new barrel into the door, i filed the notches until it fit perfectly. Thinking about it, i may have put too much strain on the old barrel whilst i was trying to break the platic clips off to remove it from the door. This was not easy, so i am guessing that this was what caused the sucked in look.

Really dont want to take to my door with a hammer to straighten it out. Trying to find someone to do dent removal on SS over here in Oz is almost impossible too!

Oh well! Good lesson learned for next time i guess!

Thanks for the replies.

[DMC5180]

Depending on the file you used FINE or COARSE , You may have made the deformation as you were pushing the file through the opening while forcing it so bite into the metal. A dremel tool would have been a better choice to rough cut the opening and then use a fine file to dress the edges.

[jawn101]

Hey guys. I just did my locks this week as well and am noticing a similar thing. I did the whole process exactly as Houston outlined, using the file and their jig and everything. I used the needle files for the entire metal removal operation exactly so I didn't risk putting too much strain on the door while filing away the little notches. Took a long time that way...

Anyway what I noticed after doing mine is that there was a small bump around the hole where the old locks used to be. It was right where the locking tab that held the outer sleeve on the 2 key locks into the door would have been. I think that because the area was not completely flat, the clips installed on the new locks from the back put uneven pressure on the door.

Mine are much less pronounced - I have to look at exactly the right angle in exactly the right light to see it. I hope one day it can be smoothed back out. Is it stupid to wait on that? Should I get it reshaped sooner rather than later? Or does it not matter?

[Fox2506]

I too just finished my lock upgrade. On one door I used the jig, and on the other I did it by eye. I also now see the warping on both. I seriously doubt I caused the radial warping with the small file I used.

In retrospect, I do feel I was a bit rough getting the old lock out.

I'm not too worried about it, though, since the PO already warped every SS panel on the car anyway. (overheating with a buffing tool I think)

[jawn101]

I too just finished my lock upgrade. On one door I used the jig, and on the other I did it by eye. I also now see the warping on both. I seriously doubt I caused the radial warping with the small file I used.

In retrospect, I do feel I was a bit rough getting the old lock out.

I'm not too worried about it, though, since the PO already warped every SS panel on the car anyway. (overheating with a buffing tool I think)

Interesting. Honestly, the DMCH instructions advising us to 'twist and snap away' the old barrel retainer gave me some serious pause. But they were correct - there wasn't another way in hell to remove those old barrels. I tried to be as careful as possible but am very open to the idea that this rough removal is what caused the issue. I wonder if an updated (perhaps larger diameter or thicker material) under-padding for the new barrels would cushion against the different pressure points created by the new barrels and allow the steel to relax more?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Hey guys. I just did my locks this week as well and am noticing a similar thing. I did the whole process exactly as Houston outlined, using the file and their jig and everything. I used the needle files for the entire metal removal operation exactly so I didn't risk putting too much strain on the door while filing away the little notches. Took a long time that way...

Anyway what I noticed after doing mine is that there was a small bump around the hole where the old locks used to be. It was right where the locking tab that held the outer sleeve on the 2 key locks into the door would have been. I think that because the area was not completely flat, the clips installed on the new locks from the back put uneven pressure on the door.
Mine are much less pronounced - I have to look at exactly the right angle in exactly the right light to see it. I hope one day it can be smoothed back out. Is it stupid to wait on that? Should I get it reshaped sooner rather than later? Or does it not matter?

+! experience here; exactly what you said. I think that is the way it is. The only solution is to reduce pressure off of the door hole by grinding down the lock cylinder slightly where the retaining clip holds it in place so that it isn't applying so much pressure. However, too much material removed and then the lock cylinder will be loose in the door! I decided to just accept it for now....