PDA

View Full Version : Engine Oil leak at Crankshaft pulley. What else should I do while I'm in there?



nullset
06-05-2014, 05:30 PM
Hi all,

I've been noticing puddles in my driveway! Looks like there's an oil leak from behind the crankshaft pulley.

I've been putting off replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets, so I'm going to go ahead and do that since I have to take the muffler off to get to that seal.

What else should I do while I've got the exhaust off? Suggestions are highly appreciated!

I'm at almost 80000 miles. To my knowledge a valve job is supposed to be done every 40k miles and I don't think it's been done to this car at all. What does that involve and how difficult is it? What else should be done at 80000 miles?

--buddy

sdg3205
06-05-2014, 08:14 PM
It's a good time to replace the oil light sensor if it leaks

David T
06-05-2014, 10:42 PM
Hi all,

I've been noticing puddles in my driveway! Looks like there's an oil leak from behind the crankshaft pulley.

I've been putting off replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets, so I'm going to go ahead and do that since I have to take the muffler off to get to that seal.

What else should I do while I've got the exhaust off? Suggestions are highly appreciated!

I'm at almost 80000 miles. To my knowledge a valve job is supposed to be done every 40k miles and I don't think it's been done to this car at all. What does that involve and how difficult is it? What else should be done at 80000 miles?

--buddy

New belts, new idler pulley bearings, and the "O" ring. If you have the original upper, right muffler bracket you should replace it. Put a fire-sleeve on the wire going to the left side sending unit light. If the muffler shield is tattered you might want to replace it. You don't do a "Valve Job" per se, you check the valve adjustments and adjust if necessary. For that you need valve cover gaskets. If you are doing that you should also replace the spark plugs, air filter, ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, and O2 sensor. Reset the Lambda counter and check the mixture setting. Check and replace all of the vacuum hoses if necessary. If you have the original water pump you should be taking the top off of the motor and "going in" and replacing all of the hoses, seals and gaskets in the valley. Now you should also replace every coolant hose including the heater hoses and the heater valve. If you have the original radiator you should be replacing that too. If you still have the plastic header tank you should be replacing that for a metal one. BTW the valve adjustment and tune-up is at 30K intervals or every 20-30 years?

nullset
06-05-2014, 11:48 PM
New belts, new idler pulley bearings, and the "O" ring. If you have the original upper, right muffler bracket you should replace it. Put a fire-sleeve on the wire going to the left side sending unit light. If the muffler shield is tattered you might want to replace it. You don't do a "Valve Job" per se, you check the valve adjustments and adjust if necessary. For that you need valve cover gaskets. If you are doing that you should also replace the spark plugs, air filter, ignition wires, distributor cap, rotor, and O2 sensor. Reset the Lambda counter and check the mixture setting. Check and replace all of the vacuum hoses if necessary. If you have the original water pump you should be taking the top off of the motor and "going in" and replacing all of the hoses, seals and gaskets in the valley. Now you should also replace every coolant hose including the heater hoses and the heater valve. If you have the original radiator you should be replacing that too. If you still have the plastic header tank you should be replacing that for a metal one. BTW the valve adjustment and tune-up is at 30K intervals or every 20-30 years?

My belts are pretty new. Water pump and all the hoses in the valley are new, and I have a stainless coolant bottle.

I'll probably inspect the plugs and wires and cap. The vacuum lines are all silicone and in pretty good shape too. I've put about 40k on this car since I bought it!

The lambda light came on a few months ago, and I had reset it shortly after I bought the car. I suddenly realized I'd put 40k on her!

kings1527
06-05-2014, 11:51 PM
It's a good time to replace the oil light sensor if it leaks

Speaking of which, I'm trying to get at that thing at this very moment. Sorry...not to hijack. Just a quick question.

Does anyone have a tool setup that they used to tackle this without having to remove the cat converter? I tried using a socket and an elbow and the cat was still getting in the way. Maybe I was having one of those days.

And does anyone know the size of the nut on the light sensor itself?

Thanks!

mluder
06-06-2014, 02:11 AM
Put a fire-sleeve on the wire going to the left side sending unit light.

Stupid question... Is this something I should be able to find and an auto parts store or any other suggestion? I'm sure I can order online but I'm just curious.

Thanks

kings1527
06-06-2014, 02:28 AM
Stupid question... Is this something I should be able to find and an auto parts store or any other suggestion? I'm sure I can order online but I'm just curious.

Thanks

I used two or three different sized shrink tubing, smaller to bigger, shrinking one after another on top of each other with a heat gun and it's held up real well. I'm sure there's some higher heat resistive stuff out there.

Flash66
06-09-2014, 06:41 AM
I used two or three different sized shrink tubing, smaller to bigger, shrinking one after another on top of each other with a heat gun and it's held up real well. I'm sure there's some higher heat resistive stuff out there.

Muffler tape.