Facias

[darylfelsberg]

My facias look terrible, so I want to paper it up, and paint them while on the car. Is there an off the shelf can paint that I can use? I realize the result won't be spectacular but it would have to be leagues ahead of where I am at now.

I've looked through the forum and have had a challenge finding information on what type of spray paint to use. I do have a paint gun, but I'm not as well skilled with it. Looking for suggestions.
Sorry if it's been coved, I just missed it. Thanks.

[sdg3205]

Hey Daryl,

Black is SEM trim black.

Your vin will determine how dark and glossy the other more silvery/gold (I really don't even know how to describe that color!) should be. I don't recall a 'go to' spray bomb for the other parts of the fascia.

I know when I had my front repainted and matched to the original rear, the code was for a mid 90s Saab or something..

Some other folks had a jeep cross reference. You might have a tough time finding the right spray bomb.

[Michael]

If you are absolutely going the spray bomb route, you can achieve nice results with sem bumper paint. A few words of advice, no matter what your vin, go flat finish. Achieving a clear finish on a bumper with a spray can is almost impossible and the clear will not hold up very long. Automotive clears are 2 part and expensive for a reason and they can't be replicated in a 10.00 can of paint.

You can get a very close color to the factory look with sem. Probably med. Titanium or med. Quartz but get their color chart and match up something close. As long as you are doing both bumpers completely it doesn't matter if the color is off a bit. If you were that worried I doubt you would be using spray bombs to begin with right?

prep is the key. Your final sand should be with 600-800. I will skip the 3 paragraphs I could write on prep but just make sure you do it right and an adhesion promoter is not a bad idea here either. To do this right (via spray bomb) you're going to spend about 100 bucks if not more. Sem paint is 10-12 bucks a can and you will need at least 2 if not more depending get on what you are covering up. Adhesion promoter and if there is damage to repair, putty and primer, mask, sandpaper, tack rag, it adds up quickly.

[PB Co]

I have this color in my notes but I can't speak to how well it matches.

Dupli-Color BNS0604 Precision Grey (W40)

I also have the factory color recorded as Grigio Antares Stromboli Met. and Code 651A Variant GE in case you're matching a different brand.

[jamesrguk]

I have this color in my notes but I can't speak to how well it matches.

Dupli-Color BNS0604 Precision Grey (W40)

I also have the factory color recorded as Grigio Antares Stromboli Met. and Code 651A Variant GE in case you're matching a different brand.

I've used the code651a in a rattle can, and can confirm that it is a very good match to oem

J

[Rich]

Remember that the OEM "paint" for the black sections of the fascias is "nothing" - those sections are bare black urethane.

Depending on what's wrong with the black sections of your fascias you might find that a good polish-out with an orbital will get you a long way. I had mine done by a pro a few years back and the black sections came back to as-new condition on both ends. No idea whether any DIY method works.

You could try the polishing on a tough section of the black urethane and if it doesn't do the job you still can move to the black paint option.

[mluder]

Remember that the OEM "paint" for the black sections of the fascias is "nothing" - those sections are bare black urethane.

Depending on what's wrong with the black sections of your fascias you might find that a good polish-out with an orbital will get you a long way. I had mine done by a pro a few years back and the black sections came back to as-new condition on both ends. No idea whether any DIY method works.

You could try the polishing on a tough section of the black urethane and if it doesn't do the job you still can move to the black paint option.

I tried wet sanding with 400 grit on a small blemish on the black area of my front fascia and I ended up revealing some sort of white-ish color. I stopped for fear of making it worse. My fascias have never been painted and are original.

[Rich]

Interesting report about revealing a white-ish color beneath surface of fascias.

I've never gone "deep" on the urethane color of the fascias. And at the moment I don't intend to.

Can the community confirm that the color is not black beneath the top layer, in which case I retract my "polish it out" advice?

[DMCMW Dave]

Interesting report about revealing a white-ish color beneath surface of fascias.

I've never gone "deep" on the urethane color of the fascias. And at the moment I don't intend to.

Can the community confirm that the color is not black beneath the top layer, in which case I retract my "polish it out" advice?

I've sanded pretty deeply into the urethane and never hit anything but black urethane. I've also seen fascias broken/scraped, and the black goes all the way through.

[NightFlyer]

Interesting report about revealing a white-ish color beneath surface of fascias.

I've never gone "deep" on the urethane color of the fascias. And at the moment I don't intend to.

Can the community confirm that the color is not black beneath the top layer, in which case I retract my "polish it out" advice?

I've always been of the polish it out approach - surprised to hear that the color of the urethane may not be consistent throughout....

[PB Co]

I can see my own fascias have been redone twice already. Chances are if there's white under the black, it's a primer layer and your fascias have already been redone. I will probably paint the black as well.

Regarding the rattle can approach... are all off the shelf options glossy?