I'm upgrading to a spec1 Gen4 exhaust. I'm up in the air about attempting the install myself or having a local muffler shop do it. I've been hitting the manifold bolts nightly with Pb blaster. Do these look like they will be an issue? (See attached )IMG_20260812_165806530.jpgIMG_20260812_165826367.jpgI was able to remove the stove without snapping the
bolts. I'm not comfortable with a torch under the car. Also, I can't find a 7M thread chaser to clean out the unused holes on the cylinder head. Is this job best done the the car on Jack stands or ramps?
Thanks for any help.

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I don't have a question or a concern at the moment, but just wanted to say how much I appreciate this discussion board and the decades of experience by all the Delorean owners and enthusiasts here!

I had my coolant system hoses replaced with silicon a couple of years ago, with the garage double checking the clamp tightening over a couple of following maintenance visits. However, over the last several months, I discovered that the level of coolant in the bottle always seems to be low (more like a 1/3 full instead of 1/2 full), and topping off the fluid before each ride. After putting more than a gallon of coolant in the car over the last several months to top the bottle off at 1/2 full, I realized I had a problem. The car never overheated, nor were there any visible coolant leaks (no dripping onto garage floor, or anything easily visible.

I had purchased a pressure tester kit several years ago, but did not use it until this past weekend. After looking up a few conversations on this site, I was able confidently use the test kit, first checking the cap, which held pressure properly, and released pressure at 16 psi. I then pressurized the entire system, and it appeared to hold tight at 15 psi, but I then pushed it to 16. Then to my surprise, coolant started dripping, and then pouring rather steadily, from the steel plate under the gas tank. I removed the plate, thinking it may be from a hose connection on the long pipe run. That was dry. Further investigation tracked the leak to one of the smaller hose connections to the heater core, accessed via the panel in the spare tire well, near the fuel pump. At first, I was fearing that my pushing the pressure to 16 psi may have ruptured the heater core (which I changed once in the past, and never want to do again!). However, and luckily, I just needed to tighten the clamp on the silicon hose connection to the core. Once I tightened that, I pressurized the system again to 16 psi, and it held tight for over 30 minutes!

The topside of the tank plate was all rusted, where I expect the leak was occurring for those several months, dripping down to the area between the tank and steel plate, being absorbed by the padding on the plate, and never becoming visible as a drip onto the ground. The coolant being hot probably evaporated partially also, preventing the leak from being easily visible. Pressure testing while cold made all the difference, and made purchasing that kit well worth it! While being discouraged that the system leaked during the test, I know it was for the best as I would never have found that leak easily otherwise!

I know I am probably not saying anything that most of the owners are already aware of, but I wanted to express my excitement about diagnosing this myself and for the valuable information in this discussion board! Thanks again!

Anyone installing sleeves in clutch master/slave cylinders anymore? I'm pretty sure my clutch slave cylinder is about to quit on me. I have to keep pumping the clutch lately and even though I have no leaks, it seems like it keeps getting air introduced.

I ran this alternator diode test on my car. I have a DMCH alternator that provides over 14.5 volts engine running at 850 RPM no loads. Testing the voltage at the cigarette lighter.

You want to have your electrical system loaded to detect a bad diode using an AC voltmeter. Note my idle RPM is 950 with the AC on

Headlights on, I have LED headlights
Defogger on
AC on
Blower #4

DC voltage = 13.95 volts
AC voltage = 0.083 volts

If you have a bad diode in your alternator, you AC volts will be much higher.

Would be nice to have some other owners share their results.

For some time, I have had some minor play in my front wheel bearings.

Several years ago I replaced the original front wheel bearings (around 15-16K miles) with replacements- branded SNR.

the driver side has some play afterwards. I later replaced that bearing with a german made FAG NOS bearing thinking it would be better quality, when I refinished my whole frame in 2024.

I drove on that bearing for sometime- a few years- and until recently, it seemed ok.

I did a 3 hour drive the other day- early June- to a car show. it was hot. about 30 minutes from my destination- and the front left wheel was making odd noises under braking and turning,
I diagnosed this later that night as a bad bearing, after jacking up the car and pulling the wheel off in a restaurant parking lot.

I got to my show and the next day a local DMC buddy VWDMC rescued me and brought over a whole other hub and bearing to swap in, again in the parking lot.
I got home no issue with that hub and bearing.

I replaced both front wheel bearing with SKFs - found the Germany made FAG bearing in the LF- which surprised me that it had failed.

But I could not find anything wrong with with the FAG after removal.

but no matter what combination of bearings or hubs (left right swap) I could not resolve the play. it remained- the LF just a bit worse that the RF.

The only thing it could be- the hubs. weird, but possible.


so I replaced both hubs with NOS parts from DMCH, reinstalled the SKF bearings- and No play! Yay.

So- it seems that- the hubs got damaged from too many times installing/reinstalling the bearings(?), and the whole bearing was moving in the hub. I didnt think that was possible, considering the bearing has to be pressed in.

either way its solved now, Just wanted to share if others have this issue now or in the future.

I also replaced the larger washer pt 110580 and the large axle nut pt 110191 for good measure. the front axle nut is now the larger 36mm one that was superceeded by the factory in late 81- my car was still running the smaller 32mm nut.

I've seen some threads regarding jumps in idle rpms at startup. My idle speed motor seems to buzz and hum properly - I cleaned and lubricated that, vacuum likes appear intact and connected, the ECU module had power going to it, connector is intact with clean contacts and wiring, the idle microswitch is engaged. What happens for the last several startups when cold (ambient temperature about 70 to 75 degrees F), is that the car will start up normally, with idle at the proper 775-ish mark. Then, after about 30 seconds or a minute, the rpm will jump up to 2300 rpms, perhaps for another 20 seconds or so, then drop back down to normal, then it might pop back up to about 2300 rpm again for another 20 seconds, perhaps, then settle out at normal 775, then stay that way, as the car continues to warm up, and never an issue while driving. It just does this intermittent jump up to 2300 rpms once or twice just after start-up and then normal all other times. Any guidance on what I could check for this, or if anyone else has had an issue?

Thanks!

If anyone has an idea of where to go next it would be appreciated.

Cant get idle below 1000 rpm.
Smoke tested all vac system, no leaks.
Backing out the idle switch at idle makes revs jump to 2000.
Removing idle ecu inner plug makes revs jump to 2500.
Bridging black/ yellow and black grey on idle ecu makes no difference.

Tested with a new idle motor as old was sticking. Passes 2nd test as well (ignition on, opens, slowly closes).
Tightened all pins on bulkhead connectors.
Black on idle ecu and 2x pins on lambda grounded( plus ecu chassis ground).
Dwell test runs 15-25 on 8 cy.

Adjusting mixture screw anticlockwise, min revs achieved 900 before stall. Dwell is way off scale then.

Testing ground on green/ black (after bridging diode at idle ecu) is always grounded, unless vac solenoid is disconnected. Then lifting throttle cuts ground.

Removing and blocking vac solenoid>distributor / disconnecting vac solenoid makes no difference.

What is the item in wiring diagram up and left to the solenioid? It has 10uf on it?

Car drives fine, just high revs. Any ideas of what to check next greatly appreciated.
Car is auto, transmission vacuum connected/ good.

Ive been trying to fix this and have no idea what to test next. Its like there is a massive air intake leak somewhere thats not showing up. Thoughts please?