Clutch master cylinder purchased from DMCH on 12/17/2024, installed at some point in 2025 and then removed last month (August 2026). The black around the rubber boot and mounting holes is not leakage, it is RTV sealant from when I resealed that area prior to installing this and a new brake booster. The MC will come with the "adapter" nipple and the crush washer for the line. It will come in the box it came in from DMCH with the sticker showing date of purchase and all that. There is nothing wrong with this MC, I just opted to go with a different unit. Asking $100, shipped to your door. OBO. Located in Seminole, FL.
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I installed a modern microprocessor-controlled unit, which has changed the driving experience: 1) shifts are too fast, accompanied by a slight jolt, especially when the car is hot (uncomfortable); 2) indecisiveness when shifting from third to second gear when driving slowly. Does anyone else have the same driving experience? Could it be a problem with the new TIP102 chip-controlled unit or a problem with my automatic transmission? Thanks, and best regards, everyone!

Inviato dal mio moto g54 5G utilizzando Tapatalk

Looking for a set of rims. I have a set but I'm not happy with how the powder-coater finished them. They were rough to begin with and outgassed multiple times and I'd like a nicer set. Prefer silver but I'll take a look at anything.

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It's been so long that my original post for this unit must have been before the site crash. So here is an update on my hot start relay.

When I'm building more boards for my inventory, I make notes on my schematic of improvements to make on the next PCB board order. Some of these are just moving components around to make assembly better. So are to try a new component to give my circuit better specifications or more reliability.

I've been very busy building hot start relays to keep up with demand. I always wondered if my one second delay before firing the CSV should be longer. I've been happy with how my car instantly starts unless it has been sitting for 6 days or more and then I notice that it does take more than one second of cranking (so it needs the CSV).

I would like my unit to delay for two seconds so I really know when it needs the CSV. I did some testing of the timing of the control signal to my hot start relay. This is the signal of how long you turn the key to start so some people may have slower or faster reaction times to letting the key off.

My car has sat for 5 days and that start time was 1.17 seconds.
Test 2 right after was 0.635 seconds
Test 3 was 0.620 seconds
Test 4 was 0.560 seconds

It does look if the car sat longer, it would in fact need the CSV.

Anyway, I came up with a software change that lets the user solder a little jumper between two adjacent pins on the programing pads to make the delay two seconds instead of one second.

I think one or two owners have had problems with that one second time being too short on a hot engine. I've sold over 500 of these units so maybe their reaction time is slow or their engines just take longer to start the hot engine.

I've ordered some spring-loaded pins to see if I can reprogram the software on finished units. Since I had to solder fill those holes used for programming because of potting the units, the surface is not even enough to make contact of the 5 pins.

So my rear springs have sagged a little. While that sounds like a bad thing, I like the stance of the car. I had allready got adjustable coil overs up front to lose the off road look. I should do the same thing in the rear, but in any case, when the rear goes down the geometry of the suspension increases the camber on the rear tires. I know some people like those Hondas with extreme camber, but I hate it. Mine had visible camber.

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The answer is adjustable links.

I ordered a set of rear lower links from Delorean Ind. I don?t know how many of you have ordered stuff that they manufactured, but everything they make is a work of art worthy of displaying on your coffee table. These are no different. The proprietor (Josh) seems to have a philosophy that if it can be made of stainless, that?s what he does. I share this feeling.

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After removing the old links, made the new link the same length to start. Then I adjusted them shorter by 3/8?. This is the best I could measure on how far out mine were. These links are adjustable after you install them because they have right and left hand threads like a turn buckle. Note , the old links don?t look bad after 40 years and 100 thousand miles.

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On the car the wheels are square to the world now.

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You might see a slight gap at the top of the tire, but that is just tire bulge at the bottom. The rim is square.

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Hi All
I am replacing the Alternator in 3462. It does not look to be the original one in there right now.
I am confused as to how to wire it up as I am missing the brown/yellow dash wire.
Pics attached.
Any ideas?
Thanks
John
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I am having my mechanic install a rebuilt steering rack from Rob Grady next week. I also purchased the Borgeson universal joints and steering shaft from DMC. I think I saw in other posts that the shaft needs to be at or close to 11-1/2 inches in length (is that the total length, or length between the u-joints, where the splined ends are inside the joints?) However, measuring the shaft I received from DMC, it is a total length of 13 inches, including the two splined ends. The smooth portion, minus the splined ends , measures 11-1/4 inches. Does my mechanic need to cut that 13 inches down to 11-1/2, or is the shaft the correct length, as is from DMC, to install? Thanks!

Anyone know of a Time Machine car at the Google offices in San Francisco? It's apparently in their "breakroom" and staff can sit in it and take meetings in it. What's the story there?

What started as a quick 20-minute fix for a cracked DeLorean automatic shift slider spiraled into a full reverse-engineering rabbit hole.

When the brittle 40-year-old plastic dust slider finally shattered on the DMC-12's center console, sourcing an OEM replacement was possible but I had another option. I pulled the entire shifter assembly, took out the slider , and ended up modeling every single component in FREECAD as both an excercise and a test for replaceable car parts in PETG.

From the sliding track seals and indicator light housings to the outer housing, the entire assembly was redesigned and printed on the Bambu Lab P1S using heat-resistant PETG and if desired ASA.



https://youtu.be/cL_1KZTQJgM

I'm upgrading to a spec1 Gen4 exhaust. I'm up in the air about attempting the install myself or having a local muffler shop do it. I've been hitting the manifold bolts nightly with Pb blaster. Do these look like they will be an issue? (See attached )IMG_20260812_165806530.jpgIMG_20260812_165826367.jpgI was able to remove the stove without snapping the
bolts. I'm not comfortable with a torch under the car. Also, I can't find a 7M thread chaser to clean out the unused holes on the cylinder head. Is this job best done the the car on Jack stands or ramps?
Thanks for any help.

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Want to buy DeLorean Flywheel or a Flex-Plate. Thanks