Printable View
I've been searching the forums, but can't find any reference to anyone using auto detailing clay on their car.
Is auto clay a no-no?
Or, is detailing clay mainly used on the clear-coat (which the stainless does not have)?
AND, has anyone done a clear-coat on their stainless? (Is that a horrible question?)
Clay works to pull contaminates out of clear coat so it wouldn't do much on a bare stainless panel. To remove oxidation and contaminates from raw SS you're better off to use bar keeper's friend with a damp sponge and/or use a brown scotchbrite pad to remove any cross grain scratching.
Clearcoat over stainless would be possible as long as it's prepped correctly... I think there are a few DeLoreans out there with clear on them. I don't know how well the finish holds up or if there are problems with maintaining the clear long term.
If you look at your car you may notice some shiny spots where the doors actually rub on the T panel when fully open, or spots on the doors where the handles rub when opening the door. With brushed stainless you can go over these rub spots from time to time to touch up the finish but with clear coat you'd rub through the paint in these spots.
Thanks Mark... good info. I kind of figured it may not be worth it to clay the car.
I bought a couple of soft-bristle kitchen brushes with the hope of doing a good "scrub" of the stainless. (these are soft-bristle, so won't scratch the stainless.)
I'll ask some local owners, and DMC CA, about clear coat.
Soft bristle brushes will work out some of the loose dirt that may be trapped in the grain of the stainless, but for a deep cleaning to bring back shine I'd still recommend going with some Bar Keeper's Friend. When mixed with water BKF creates a weak acid that removes old oxidation from the stainless. It's gritty like soft scrub and will pull up all kinds of black residue with it. You actually WANT something that is mildly abrasive, working with the grain to do a deep clean. For every day touch ups and maintaining clean stainless using a clear window cleaner like invisible glass is excellent. It doesn't contain any blue dye like Windex that can build up on black trim pieces.Quote:
Originally Posted by dtavres
If you have a stainless kitchen sink you can try out some BKF on that first to see how well it works. The difference is really apparent on stainless that has never been deep cleaned before.
If you do go the clear coat route you'd want to get the stainless absolutely perfect first and remove scratches with a scotch brite pad so it is evenly brushed out. Otherwise you'd just be trapping a dull finish below the stainless that you'd never be able to clean.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1457732003
Fantastic... thanks again. Great info!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
I'm looking forward to doing this!
I see BKF on Amazon - www.bit.ly/1LhlmUw
Are these the 'brown scotchbrite pads' you're talking about? www.bit.ly/1LhlymO
Thanks again!
Nothing against Amazon but you should be able to find it at your local supermarket or walmart.Quote:
Originally Posted by dtavres
The only things I use on the S/S is Windex, alcohol, water and car soap. I also use a blending pad, paper towels, and sandpaper. I find that anything else leaves a sticky, oily film that attracts and holds dirt. The clay bar is good for the facias since they are painted.
We use clay bars all the time on stainless. Almost always before grabbing scotch brite pads. It's better to pull contaminates out with he clay instead of using the pad. Doesn't always do the trick especially for something that has etched the metal but works more often than not. If you ever get over spray on your car when painting black components with sem trim black this will take the over spray right off as well.
Laminated safety glass can be cleaned this way as well to remove ozone if you are not comfortable with using a straight razor.