3D Printable Time Machine Parts Project

So they are lots of 3d printable parts on Thingiverse...I made a collection for ease of browsing them (Thanks to everyone that posted them). I would like to model as many of the remaining pieces as possible. Anybody want to help? (I can share the fusion 360 project i think) All models will eventually be freely available on thingiverse once they are finalized.

things I am drafting
Attachment 59381

printable models already on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4deat...tions/delorean)
Attachment 59380

I will be posting my progress on the project here.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kgp4death

So they are lots of 3d printable parts on Thingiverse...I made a collection for ease of browsing them (Thanks to everyone that posted them). I would like to model as many of the remaining pieces as possible. Anybody want to help? (I can share the fusion 360 project i think) All models will eventually be freely available on thingiverse once they are finalized.

things I am drafting
Attachment 59381

printable models already on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4deat...tions/delorean)
Attachment 59380

I will be posting my progress on the project here.

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Coolness!

This is awesome! I'm not hardcore enough to source and pay for screen accurate parts, but I could see myself someday printing and painting parts that are accurate enough for me. Replica time machine parts for the people! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DavidProehl

This is awesome! I'm not hardcore enough to source and pay for screen accurate parts, but I could see myself someday printing and painting parts that are accurate enough for me. Replica time machine parts for the people! :)

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You got it that is exactly what I am going for. This would not be for the hardcore "must be exact model no matter the cost people" but for the budget build people which would like a good amount of visual/dimentional accuracy for the cost of time and abs plastic.

here is my model for today the the clare-electroseal corp box C2277-EI better known as that random golden box on center console....again if any one wants to help/check my measurements whatever pm your email



Attachment 59391

So I figured out how to share my files for now links self update, you can look at rotate,measure things, markup, and add comments and criticisms (so I can fix things). You can also download files and stl files to print and modify(but sorry to say they will have no connection to self update my files-you would still need to give me your email for that), but for more complex items you want to download the fusion file and export each object as a separate stl....that said these are still not fully ready to go and some are very raw (but good start,they will be on thingiverse once they are 99%)....oh and if you are goingto try toprint something make sure it is in petg or abs or poly carbonate. If you are looking into buying a 3d printer look at the cr-10 (but you will need an enclosure for abs, i just have 2 10$ ikea tables on top of each other.

https://sites.google.com/site/brucec.../allmodels.png


Golden Claire Electrical Box
(center console in front of flux capacitor)
want to still model some switches and things for the really lazy to find parts people but close
https://a360.co/2EGlT1J

Mount for Green bowling pin torpedo things
(these are meant to be used with the models already on thingiverse for the Green tube things)
https://a360.co/2ECs2fa

Vent Plates(rear driver side exterior)
pretty close to done found all the real dimensions
https://a360.co/2EGxuOb

Black Boxes for Dash Board
(still need to adjust some dimensions and model internals)
https://a360.co/2EM5zfZ

Heat sink for on top of the big zero box exterior behind the passager
this is a re-mix of the plutonium chamber heat sinks they are similar but different sizes.
close but needs a hole for the wire protector things (and also need to model those too)
https://a360.co/2TvV8ql

Actual big zero box with connector for orange jantrol tube built in
https://a360.co/2EKM8UB

Extinguisher holder for near the flux capacitor
still needs a lot of work
https://a360.co/2EGSB34

flux band bracket
will need to be printed in flexible filament or printed hard just to make the mold.
https://a360.co/2EK6yxe

Plutonium Chamber (screw version)
very inaccurate but dont think there was a chamber for the plutonium to fall into, and modified for lid to screw in instead of just one Quarter turn for more security from it falling off. I will model the normal version too.
https://a360.co/2TyJSJL

Plutonium Chamber Lid
(working but inaccurate screw version- these all work with turbine thing already on thingiverse that goes above hubcap. )
https://a360.co/2ELlDOU

Plutonium Chamber Insert With Plutonium drop slot
(also inaccurate, but official version was bolted in and to get the plutonium you would have to open the whole thing or grab them from under neath hoping they didn't fall in to engine.(i think,correct me if i am wrong).Again I will model normal version too.
https://a360.co/2IYGnrY

Delorean relay holder behind passenger
(might model the relays for completeness but they are like 5$ cheap)
https://a360.co/2EGEriu

Wire Coupling thing used all over
will eventually be several versions for all the types/sizes around car
https://a360.co/2TlRUWU

Twin zero boxes near green tubes
https://a360.co/2IZCMtP

So are you saying all the stuff you and others have created is available to print in some kind of plastic or resin? I've never ordered anything from these guys, so what is the best way and what is best type of material to ask it to be printed in for painting and mounting purposes (on a DeLorean of course!).

Thanks for sharing your skills and ordering tips?


https://www.thingiverse.com/kgp4deat...tions/delorean

Well printing services get expensive quick (as you are paying for time too - 3d printing takes a long time), I would personally not recommend doing it that way. Here is what i am saying:

get a cr-10 (because it is big-cheap-and great quality) here is a 10s for only 353$ great deal mine was a 10 which is worse model for 360$
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-CR...QAAOSwAx9b98EJ

get plastic (this would need to be abs as is is on a car which gets hot. a 10pk from here is 109$ and would be enough plastic to pretty much do a delorean

http://www.zyltech.com/zyltech-filament-special-offers/

now a cr-10 does need a couple things
10$ mirror tiles ikea https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/39151700/
2X9$ ikea tables for encloure wihich is needed for abs https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20011408/
you probably want a pei sheet for helping abs stick for 20$ from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-P...s%2C131&sr=8-4
and a 18$ gallon bottle of acetone to weld palstic togeter and things https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-St...AC18/100141096

Total 528$


then you can pretty much print all this stuff and sand and paint to your desire. btw here is the new pack i will be posting soon including the jantrol tank, orange tube, canon pipe elbows, toin blower, wire strain releifs, volage regulator box, even a radio modle and atomuffler things......in other words i am getting pretty hardcore on this.

https://57bb0847-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites..../newmodels.png

Great ideas, and nice to share in forum as most of us will never find the "real 100% items" out in the wild and can't wait 20 more years to collect it all. So, thanks again, and for those interested in printing one or 2 pieces, and in stronger material than plastic, which of the 3 services under "order this printed" has anyone used, and can recommend or avoid based on experience?

Stanley

I have not used any 3d printing service but I do know they are ridiculously overpriced. ABS is quite strong many stock car parts are abs like in DeLorean many interior panels are abs (unless they are the crappy thin fiber glass new ones the company now try's to sell). 3d prints too are quite strong at 100% infill (ie solid part not that you really need that) the weakness comes in at the layers. Prints could easy break at the layers, but abs is a different creature in that you can chemical weld/fuse layers with just some acetone leaving a smooth finish no to little layer lines and super strong part. Polycarbonate is another choice bullet proof glass is made of the stuff quite strong but harder to print and more expensive (cr-10 can print the stuff with all metal hot end or change boden tube and insulated bed upgrade). If you wanted a metal piece you could do a lost pla casting with maybe a home made 25$ forge but all that stuff is more for a diy/maker person not a hire someone to do it for me person.