Brake Master cylinder and Caliper removal.

I'm getting ready to attempt this over the weekend. My master cylinder is leaking down the front of the brake booster and down along the gas tank so I really need to get it replaced (I have a new one from DMCMW laying around). I also discovered my rear calipers have the original soft lines and the calipers seem to be pretty seized so I want to replace the soft lines and try to rebuild the calipers. I know I seen a "How to" on rebuilding the calipers on here somewhere but my real question is, is there anything I should know on removing the Master cylinder? Any tips or tricks? The calipers look straight forward but again, any tips? The parking brake cables look rough but I assume its just a few pins and clips that hold them on but really not sure. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

P.S - I am totally terrified of the snapping the hard lines :vomit_1:

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Originally Posted by krs09

..... is there anything I should know on removing the Master cylinder? Any tips or tricks? ....

P.S - I am totally terrified of the snapping the hard lines

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Well, you are off to a good start. Be careful. The hard lines on a D are no worse than the hard lines on other cars so just be sure to use a backing wrench and a steady hand. Of course, use proper open-end wrenches, not adjustable wrenches or ViceGrip pliers for a job like this. A little penetrating oil a few minutes before you wrench can help. Don't overdo it.

About swapping the master, you know that the Workshop Manual covers it in Sec. L:09, right? Follow directions.

Be sure you really know how to bleed brakes, otherwise take it to a shop, same as with any car. Otherwise plan to spend some time learning on the job. And bleeding it more than once....

If you are at all concerned about busting a hard line, not bleeding properly or otherwise botching the job you should take the car to a shop for this brake work. A DeLorean brake system isn't hard for them work on. If they break something they will fix it. And your car will be safe when you pick it up.

As for hints on the master here are a few:
- Do your best to catch all of the old brake fluid so it won't run onto the frame. Brake fluid is known for its ability to attack paint.
- If you are re-using the fluid reservoir take care not to damage it when taking it off the master.
- The car calls for DOT4 fluid. The forum consensus is to use Castrol DOT4, formerly known as Castrol GTLMA.

An easy and unrelated "while in there" job is to string up a secondary trunk latch release wire since everything's open there during this job. It can run from the latch along the primary cable and then beneath the underbody to a convenient yet hidden place you can reach should you ever loose the primary connection. Be sure it stays away from the steering hardware.

Master cylinder is a piece of piss - there's some opinions about bench bleeding it first but I'm in the camp of not seeing it necessary and did it straight on the car when I did my complete brake overhaul.

Calliper rebuild is well worth it, amazing how much crud builds in them that doesn't bleed out, but time consuming - I believe I got one done a night when I did mine.

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

Master cylinder is a piece of piss - there's some opinions about bench bleeding it first but I'm in the camp of not seeing it necessary and did it straight on the car when I did my complete brake overhaul.

Calliper rebuild is well worth it, amazing how much crud builds in them that doesn't bleed out, but time consuming - I believe I got one done a night when I did mine.

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Before attempting to undo the brake lines spray with Liquid Wrench or your favorite Magic fluid. Let sit overnight. Use a flare nut wrench if you have one, try not to use vise grips or pliers. An open end wrench is not the best choice either. Be careful since although the nut may come loose from the part, rust can prevent the nut from rotating on the tubing and as you turn the nut you are twisting the pipe. If that happens try going back-and forth till it loosens and spray some more stuff at it. If you are careful and work slowly you should be able to save the hard lines and the nuts. You should do all 4 calipers, replace the rubber hoses, blow out the hard lines and flush with alcohol. If the pads look good just scuff them and the rotors with some sandpaper.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rich

Well, you are off to a good start. Be careful. The hard lines on a D are no worse than the hard lines on other cars so just be sure to use a backing wrench and a steady hand. Of course, use proper open-end wrenches, not adjustable wrenches or ViceGrip pliers for a job like this. A little penetrating oil a few minutes before you wrench can help. Don't overdo it.

About swapping the master, you know that the Workshop Manual covers it in Sec. L:09, right? Follow directions.

Be sure you really know how to bleed brakes, otherwise take it to a shop, same as with any car. Otherwise plan to spend some time learning on the job. And bleeding it more than once....

If you are at all concerned about busting a hard line, not bleeding properly or otherwise botching the job you should take the car to a shop for this brake work. A DeLorean brake system isn't hard for them work on. If they break something they will fix it. And your car will be safe when you pick it up.

As for hints on the master here are a few:
- Do your best to catch all of the old brake fluid so it won't run onto the frame. Brake fluid is known for its ability to attack paint.
- If you are re-using the fluid reservoir take care not to damage it when taking it off the master.
- The car calls for DOT4 fluid. The forum consensus is to use Castrol DOT4, formerly known as Castrol GTLMA.

An easy and unrelated "while in there" job is to string up a secondary trunk latch release wire since everything's open there during this job. It can run from the latch along the primary cable and then beneath the underbody to a convenient yet hidden place you can reach should you ever loose the primary connection. Be sure it stays away from the steering hardware.

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Finally getting around to fixing this.. Thanks for all the help. Ill keep you guys posted.