Thanks Mark for your time.....you are always very helpful
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Thanks Mark for your time.....you are always very helpful
I don't know if this was already covered, but what's the height of the TCD keypad enclosure?
Are you talking about the overall height of the green part of the keypad? Here are some overall dimensions of the TRW housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timebender
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1494507056
Yep- that's what I was looking for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Thanks again Mark!
Anyone have a good close-up picture of the original "A" car roentgen gauge ? ....seems like Simpson used two different fonts over the years.....
Thanks in advance
Mark,
Do you have any info on the Rowen Contactors and what the correct serial/part # is? I was told u can still buy them out there on ebay and such. When i search for 3 prong contractors I get a bunch but none that appear to be right
Hi Mark,
I just finished reading the thread and I wanted to thank you for taking your time to help the community. There is a ton of great information in here.
I'm in the beginning stages of building my own time circuits, and I'm having trouble locating alphanumeric displays that look the part. In the OUTATIME documentary there is a close-up shot of the reproduction time circuits at around 50:17. The alphanumeric displays in the reproduction circuits are 14-segment with no decimals and have all three digits close together in a single unit.
Do you know where these displays are from? Or do you have any advice for finding similar displays?
Thanks for the help!
Hey Mark D......
.where are you ?
Still here. Post people have been sending me PM's if they have questions since this thread hasn't had much action and I'm not always checking for new posts.
Thanks do you have any close-up pics of the A car Roentgen gauge .....I want to compare it to mine as I think I have an original.....
As always thanks for your time and knowledge....
I also think there are a few different fonts on these.....
The roentgen meter came from a CP95 Radiac which has the accurate meter housing with correct font. Other loose gauges that are found have come from other sources that are close but not accurate. I've got some pictures showing the different variations that I can post for you later this evening.
Hi Mark,
I'm having to make my own 'Torr Laboratories' Vacuum Relays for my Flux Capacitor build - I've looked everywhere for these things... Do you (or anyone else reading this) know the diameter and height/thickness of the brass section of the relays? Thanks!
M.Q
Please post the pictures.....
Thanks
This is what I'm looking for... From my research they are; Torr Laboratories TVS-1 High Voltage Relays. Found in military communication equipment from WWII through to the Vietnam War. The consensus is that they are like trying to find a needle after the haystack has gone! You never know... Any help finding some, or the dimensions of the round brass casing/base of the relays would be very much appreciated.
mQ.
Attachment 53314
Attachment 53316
Chicken and egg thing. I need the dimensions etc. before I can make them. If I have to make them, this is what I'm looking at doing:Quote:
Originally Posted by BadCompany
1. Turn a master pattern to replicate the brass base. Drilled to take the 'vacuum tube', stepped/shouldered on top to take a 1.5mm thick brass plate. Diameter? (need dimensions). The master will be moulded in silicon rubber, I'll then make 3 castings using epoxy resin mixed with brass powder. OR depending on the size I might just turn the 3 of them out of brass tube.
2. I'll make a master pattern of the glass vacuum tubes. These will be cast (with the correct internals) in crystal clear epoxy. You have to be careful with epoxy as it can be challenging to get it "crystal" clear. Sometimes it can be "cloudy" and no matter how much fine sanding and polishing it is never quite as clear as it's name suggests. If I have any issues I'll hit it with a 2-Pack epoxy lacquer.
The thing to remember about casting things, especially casting something clear is get rid of the air bubbles. I 'degas' mixed resins etc. in a vacuum chamber before I use them. If you don't have a vacuum chamber you can (sometimes) get away with leaving the poured mould on a running drill press with a bolt off-set in the chuck to cause some vibration. This helps get rid of most of the air bubbles but usually there's always one or two and ALWAYS where you don't want them! Apart from not being 100% effective, leaving a drill press running (or any other machine for that matter) is highly dangerous and I would strongly advise you NOT to do this.
mQ.
Someone had discovered that the top housing from a Pittman motor (we use those for our dome drives on R2 and other such droids) is the right diameter and height for the Torr Relay base, and so he took one and used that as a mold for his resin pours, then drilled the various holes with his drill press.
Thank you for the heads-up, I'll check it out. I found some "spark plug" Caps that look right for the top of the glass relays. I had searched for ages until I came across 'distributor boots' by accident... So, it looks like they are distributor boots not spark plug caps. I found some on eBay, they look exactly like the ones used on the Flux Capacitor. The only thing is... they are black not orange. Anyone know where the orange ones came from? Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Timebender
mQ.
Hey Mark,
Please post the pictures of the roentgen gauges......please let me know which one was used on the A car
Thanks
whats the model of the muffler filters on the rear passenger side near the capacitors? Thanks in advance
They are atomuffler M00. The base is just a piece of wood with chamfered edges and two holes drilled in it. The atomuffler show up on ebay frequently, although as with most of the other parts on the car the new mufflers changed from the vintage ones and the cast top looks slightly different.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgp4death
Here's photo of one that is legit:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1506656276
Here are a few photos of the roentgen gauge from the A car:Quote:
Originally Posted by BadCompany
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1506656048
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1506656048
And a comparison of a correct gauge and an incorrect gauge
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...3&d=1506656057
The relay coil housings are made of steel with yellow zinc plating.Quote:
Originally Posted by maxQ
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1506657171
Thank you Mark! You have no idea how much I appreciate this :thumbup: The Stahlin J1210HPL (electrical box) I ordered arrived today. It feels like Xmas lol...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
T.
Attachment 53701
Made this today
Hi Guys,
thanks to the help I've received on this Forum - especially from Mark, I am now making good progress with my Flux Capacitor build. I'm still undecided as to which way to go with the Vacuum Relay bases. Fabricate them or make a master and cast them (pros & cons both ways).
Meanwhile... I've looked everywhere for the correct 90 Degree - orange distributor/spark plug boot/caps and the orange grommets that the yellow leads go through on the mounting plate. What are they from originally Mark? Can you still get them? I've attached a screen shot from the BTTF DeLorean restoration DVD. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
mQ
Attachment 53737
I was not around when the screen used Flux Capacitor was being rebuilt, but I believe it was put back together with the original boots and wires after they were cleaned up. The boots on the car now should be those that were originally on the A car in 1985. It's also unique along with the B car in that it has the rubber on the backing board where the yellow wires pass through. The C car did not have these and there are a few other variations between the flux capacitors on the A, B and C cars. These can easily be made by using just the ends from the 90 deg boots and cutting off the large end that would normally go over the glass relay tube.
The boots you can find in black rubber at our your local auto parts store. The shape is the same as screen used l and they just need to be dyed orange using some SEM vinyl dye in a spray can. I've got a couple dozen boots from when I bought a bunch a few years back, if anyone is really looking for some and can't find any locally send me a PM. Otherwise here's a link to the ones you can get on OReilly's website.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...ct512a/2595059. You can search that same PN and brand on other sites to find alternative sources as well.
The only slight difference on these is that you'll want to sand the end of the narrow (where the yellow wire enters) end flat to eliminate the rounded/radiused edge. The end should be flat and not rounded.
Might sound like a stupid question but what type of screws were used on flux band brakets they need to ancor themselves i would guess but too tight would bow the stainless steel, probably over thinking it.
On the screen used cars there was no time to remove panels to access to the inside for a nut and bolt so in most cases so they just used sheet metal screws. If you do the same you'll want to use a center punch and drill plot holes in advance to prevent the drill bit from wandering.Quote:
Originally Posted by kgp4death
For the front flux boxes you can get to the opposite side of the fender with your hands so a larger nut/bolt with washers were used. I'd also recommend removing the T panel from the roof when installing the upper flux boxes to bolt those on the same way as the fronts.
Thanks Again
Hi Mark,
did you get my PM regarding the Distributor Boots from O'Reilly Auto Parts? Thanks.
Tony
I got a notification when sending a reply PM to Mark saying that his inbox is full and can't receive new messages. So Mark might not be receiving PM's? It also looks like I lost all of the content of my reply as a result??Quote:
Originally Posted by maxQ
thinking of ordering these tubes for my flux bands. does this look right aluminum 3/4 od....
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...ecently_Viewed
Also what led light setup do you guys suggest, the EL wire gray used didn't seem bright enough
it's wrong it is 6ft, think i need 8 ft....can someone direct me to a reasonably priced aluminum tube...Grainger was close thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by kgp4death
These guys seem reasonable and shipping is not bad either.....can someone confirm the size?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...ube_6061t6.php
O.D. I.D. Wall Wt./Ft.(lbs.)Part No. Price / Ft
3/4 0.680 .035 0.098 03-36150 $3.35
3/4 0.652 .049 0.1288 03-36200 $3.75
3/4 0.634 .058 0.1506 03-36300 $2.75
3/4 0.620 .065 0.164 03-36350 $2.95
Hi guys,
slowly getting all my parts together for my Flux Capacitor build. I've been dragging my feet a bit making the master patterns for the Torr Vacuum Relays (I'm still looking/hoping to find some genuine ones). Anyway, there's something else I am looking for and hopefully I'll have a better chance of getting it lol...
I looking for the correct window rubber. To me, the gasket profile looks asymmetrical. It looks thicker at the window and then tapers down to the outside edge. Of all the research I've done, the only replica Flux Capacitor I've see with the same window seal screen used one was on one of Bruce Coulombe's replica Flux Capacitors. Please see attached pics of the Coulombe replica Flux Capacitor and a couple of screen shots of the original one. If anyone can tell me where I get some I would be very grateful. Thanks!
Tony
Attachment 54410Attachment 54411Attachment 54412
Hey Mark (or any of you who might know),
Do you know what was used for the square indicator lights as well as for the two pushbuttons on the TCD keypad box? I know the original TRW boxes had those in them - at least from what I can tell by Google images of original boxes, but what would be good for a reasonably close replica?
They look like round mounted indicators with the flush square lenses, but so far I could only find one in green, and it's 26mm vs 10mm.
I'm pretty close to wrapping up my replica, which I'll be offering both as a static version for the static TCD I make, and as an enclosure other builders can use with their own programmable (or whatever) TCD, since it seems finding actual TRW enclosures is nearly impossible.
Good news is what I'll be offering will be way more affordable than what's currently being offered. The TRW case as a kit will be thermoformed with separate keypad surround (printed) for about $50 bucks without the indicators. With them, I don't know as I have to find them and price them out. Or we just make new lenses so builders can add their own lights.
And a static TCD with backlit numbers, TRW case which is really for power and on/off/volume, and integrated bluetooth receiver and amp (with speakers side mounted in the TCD itself) will be about $350.
Greg
The indicators can be purchased separately from the green housing, they are Leecraft series 32 (square) and are still available new. I think the only color you can no longer get in the correct/accurate version are the clear ones. I believe those have changed slightly over the years, and you'd have to find two new old stock ones on ebay of the vintage design. Attached below is the spec sheet with the part numbers for each color. The only part of the indicator you actually need is the lens which can easily be removed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timebender
Note, that the bottom clear indicator is an actual push button while the other four are simply lights. The two clear lenses are the same, but behind the bottom one is a momentary push button.
Attachment 59057
Attachment 59058
Attachment 59059
Well that’s just awesome. Thanks for the fast reply!!
So I’m guessing that all the indicator lights were converted to 12 volt (as they are Neon high voltage as stock), maybe LEDs? Also, for the bottom button, did you take a lens from one and just fit it over the push button?