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05-10-2012, 10:48 AM
stevedmc

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrar

Yet with everything wired up as it is supposed to be I still have to jump the starter motor manually. I am stumped, but I don't want to have to tear the wiring harness apart just now.

Run a wire from your bulkhead mod through the firewall and into the car. I would suggest that you run the wire through the hole in the battery compartment. Tuck the wire somewhere convenient such as between the passenger seat and the console. Then run a wire directly from the positive terminal to the same location in your cabin. Now you can start the car from inside (whether it is raining or not).

For a more permanent fix, go down to Oreilly's and get one of those fancy push buttons for starting cars and hook it up to your wires. Or you could just use a really heavy duty switch.

Either way, just run some wires into your car and at least you will be able to conveniently enjoy your car until the issue is resolved.
05-10-2012, 11:06 AM
dmc6960

Do some voltage tests on the start inhibit relay socket. Make sure they all behave like they should and are securely fastened to the socket.

The relay coil GND should only have GND when not in gear.
The relay coil 12V should get 12V when the key is turned to start.
The relay power input should be 12V at all times.
The relay power output should turn the starter (test with a jumper).

Report back and we'll go from there.
05-10-2012, 12:49 PM
Farrar

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

The relay coil GND should only have GND when not in gear.

Check.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

The relay coil 12V should get 12V when the key is turned to start.

No.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

The relay power input should be 12V at all times.

Check.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

The relay power output should turn the starter (test with a jumper).

No.

A little additional info: In order to turn the starter motor, I use a wire spliced into the red/white wire at the bulkhead connector. I touch it to the positive jump post in the engine compartment and the starter motor turns every time. So I know the connection at the bulkhead is good. Not sure if that is relevant. I originally installed that wire just to have a way to start the engine from the engine compartment while working on the car, but now I have to use it all the time. It does turn the starter motor without fail, so I assume the connections at the starter motor itself are also good. Not sure if that is relevant at this stage, but I thought I'd mention it.
05-10-2012, 01:11 PM
Bitsyncmaster

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrar

Check.

No.

Check.

No.

Your problem is the lack of 12 volts on the relay contacts. With the relay modification that should have been done, that 12 volts was attached to the door lock circuit breaker.
05-10-2012, 01:14 PM
dmc6960

Ah HA! There seems to be two problems here then. Both need to be troubleshot individually.

First, your start inhibit relay not getting its coil 12V from the ignition switch. This is bad! Under the drivers side dash, you should see I think two harnesses going into the steering collumn. One of them contains all the wires for the ignition switch. Your interested in the brown one and the white/red wire. Disconnect it and test CONTINUITY on the ignition switch side. Turn key to start, you should get a connection. Next, take a jumper and connect the brown to the white/red wire (make sure your start inhibit relay is still removed). Now with that jumper in place, check for relay coil 12V at the relay socket.

Next, it would appear that supplying 12v to the relay output pin does not turn the starter. Lets test for something else then. Find your "hot start" relay socket. Its got a white/red wire. Give it 12v, does your starter engage? Test continuity between that that wire on the hot start relay socket and the start inhibit relay socket. They should be connected. After those checks, you'll need to remove the engine harness from the bulkhead connectors and test for either 12v (with everything jumped) or continuity on the bulkhead connector for the starter and the power out from the start inhibit relay socket.

Report back.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

Your problem is the lack of 12 volts on the relay contacts. With the relay modification that should have been done, that 12 volts was attached to the door lock circuit breaker.

Proper service bulletin mods has that relay getting its power input from the blower fan breaker, not the door lock breaker.

However the door lock breaker is a GREAT place for really good 12V testing power.
05-10-2012, 01:32 PM
Farrar

Thanks, guys!

I will try these and report back on the next good-weather day (or when I finally get the car in the garage...)

So glad I have this forum and the DML to help me troubleshoot the little things that get me scratching my head over this car. :)
05-10-2012, 05:31 PM
stevedmc

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrar

Thanks, guys!

I will try these and report back on the next good-weather day (or when I finally get the car in the garage...)

So glad I have this forum and the DML to help me troubleshoot the little things that get me scratching my head over this car. :)

No need for troubleshooting. Just mount a fancy push start button somewhere in the car, run some wires to it, and presto, you've got a fancy exotic car with a push start ignition.

I'm thinking something like this would look really nice in place of the dimmer knob or cigarette lighter.

Attachment 10343

This could easily be mounted inside one of those console dummy switches:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...d=start+button
05-10-2012, 09:34 PM
Farrar

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevedmc

This could easily be mounted inside one of those console dummy switches:

That would be the worst possible option -- I hit those switches all the time with my elbow. Just what I need -- the starter motor engaging when I am going down the highway at 60 MPH. :lol:

Quote:

Originally Posted by dmc6960

First, your start inhibit relay not getting its coil 12V from the ignition switch. This is bad! Under the drivers side dash, you should see I think two harnesses going into the steering collumn. One of them contains all the wires for the ignition switch.

I have the steering wheel canopy off right now... should I just test at the switch itself? Or is there a connection somewhere inside the wrap of the harness that may have snapped? I have seen some strange stuff inside those harnesses, so there's no telling.

You know, it's funny how these cars work... I think "All right, I've got it running fine, so it's time for some fun," and then suddenly something happens, like the air conditioning explodes or the key stops working. I should never do anything except basic maintenance and repair to this car, because as soon as I think I can spend some car money on something fun, it comes to bite me in the ass. :lol:
05-11-2012, 07:05 PM
Farrar

Got the keys to the new apartment today. The garage is 10x12 feet. Plenty of room for the D, plus parts and tools! :D
05-11-2012, 10:24 PM
dvonk

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farrar

Got the keys to the new apartment today. The garage is 10x12 feet. Plenty of room for the D, plus parts and tools! :D

woo hoo, youre going to love it! :woot:

also, 1000th post! (on this thread) :lol:

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