Stuck home sick today so decided to change my brake fluid - has been precisely two years since I completely rebuilt the system.
Good opportunity to finally give the one-man approach a go - quite surprised how well that went.
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Stuck home sick today so decided to change my brake fluid - has been precisely two years since I completely rebuilt the system.
Good opportunity to finally give the one-man approach a go - quite surprised how well that went.
I am having this problem too. My voltage is never up to 13. It always sits close to the orange tick right below 13. Would you mind posting a link to that video? I had no idea what that gauge should read normally, and would love to try this if mine is wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
I had the same problem until I improved the ground by running a ground wire to the front and connected the ground junctions to it. Prior to upgrading the ground, the volt meter always looked a bit anemic. So your low voltage reading at the dash may be a ground problem. To check the voltage, use a volt meter and check the voltage at various points. You'll likely see a difference between idle and higher RPM such as 2,000RPM. To see if the gauge is seeing a ground problem, jumper (jumper cables will work) from the ground junction found just above the gas pedal (or near there) to the battery NEGATIVE. If it reads more accurate, you may want to consider a ground bus add.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
How did the old brake fluid look after you flushed it out? I've heard it will start to get pretty brown after just a couple years compared to the fresh amber colored fluid. I'm coming up on two years next spring to do mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Was your one man approach done with a pressure bleeder? If not, how did you go about doing it yourself?
I'm pretty annoyed with myself actually - when I rebuilt the system and saw how bad it was, I promised myself I'd do it annually. But after two years - yep it was very very brown :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
It was the cheap little bottle with check valve - so you still pump the brake pedal to push the fluid through, but can leave the nipple open without the hold and close technique as the fluid and air doesn't suck back in. Worked fantastic except for front right - as the first front I didn't take into account the 60/40 difference in the master cylinder and thus more fluid came through for same number of pedal pushes. Bottle overflowed and I had brake fluid everywhere - doh!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB2NpX4c_aAQuote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
The key thing is the battery light never lights up when you turn the key. If it doesn't, it's either burned out or disconnected which would cause this issue. It's a 161 bulb (161LL at autozone) and comes in a 2 pack for $4.95 or so.
-Bob
Gave up on it and said "Better luck next year."
entered Kalispell MT Glacier street rod car show july 19, in Heritage Days parade at Columbia Falls MT july 26, Show n' shine car show Evergreen MT Aug 2 ,,Flathead County fair parade Kalispell MT [won 30" trophy] And will enter Rumble in The Bay car show in Bigfork MT Aug 31. I could have gone to over 200 car
shows this summer in Montana. I seem to be the only rolling DeLorean in all of northwest MT.
doin' my bit to spread the gospel of John [Z].........
Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT
Brought 3922 to a transmission shop close by to check my final drive gear oil level as I had constant drips of gear oil under the car.
They said that the level was fine and tightened the nuts along the split seal and the drain. No drips so far (knock on wood)!
They were pretty cool. They loved the car, took a lot of shots and did the check "on the house"! Awesome!
LED conversion done this weekend for the binnacle. An added bonus was that brake light that now lights up for the first time since I got the car. When I was in there replacing the battery light, I actually did replace the one for the brake indicator, but it never lit up. Maybe turning that bulb mount twice was what it took to clean the contacts. Bonus! While the binnacle was out the 2nd time I painted it with the SEM 17333 charcoal gray fabric dye stuff before putting it back in. I also managed to order two more cans of this recently discontinued product for when I do the dash someday.
I also figured out that Bar Keepers Friend takes out those hard water stains I had on my car. Sweet, they're gone. Vinegar, stainless polish, CLR, blending pad, etc, all failed. This stuff worked and it was pretty effortless. I used some bottle of liquid. I hear it comes as a powder too but haven't tried that.
Lubricated the lower speedo cable and now that gage is nice and smooth. I'm about 150 miles away from hitting 5000 on the clock after doing a 50 mile round trip ride to wally world (walmart).
Sun shade was ordered from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Y5DB4C - $47.99 delivered.
-Bob
Well, this is a bummer...Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Removed the cooling fans
Bought all new nuts/bolts/washers for the cooling fans
Rewired the front marker light (had some random connection). All lights except the headlights and center stack are now LED.
Purchased my first dremel, to cut the radiator bracket for stud replacement.
The system will NOT charge if the dashboard battery light is burned out. You must replace it.
I have been reading through all of these recent posts and threads because I too am having low voltage issues. Found my first melted fuse Saturday trying to figure this out. yay me... Anyways, my battery light comes on, but is very dim and flickers. It is never a solidly lit light or bright. I am checking grounds now and just ruled out my battery. I will look into this light.Quote:
Originally Posted by djdogbone
Reality is frequently a bummer. It will be very difficult between now and next summer for me to get more than a couple of hours a week to devote to the car. A few hours a week is fine if the car is running and in good shape -- I can drive it every weekend and fix what breaks along the way. But when the car has been sitting for a year and won't start, a few hours a week is just enough time to drive myself insane. Better to avoid the stress and get back to the car when I have more time.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
That's a very defeatist attitude, Dougal!Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
http://wondersinthedark.files.wordpr..._mrs_doyle.jpg
They had "Father Ted" in Italy? Neat! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZ
I'll probably go out and tinker on the car when the weather gets cool, but I do not expect to get it running any time soon.
No we don't. But I usually go and find out all that deserves in both music and cinema! And Ted's one of my favourite! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Aaaanyway... we want you behind the wheel Farrar! :rollin:
Do not use the powder...it gets everywhere!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
So does my fiancé -- she said "If all it needs is is a new ignition coil, I'll buy you one." LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnZ
I replaced my low note horn with a new one from DMCMW. When I got the car, it was burned out completely. Replaced it with something marked "L" from Pick-n-Pull, which turned out to most likely be "Left" instead of "Low". Having two high note horns made the car sound decidedly like something the European version of Barbie would drive. With a proper low note installed, I think folks might actually hear me honking now.
http://youtu.be/Fg-Hd0P4Wrw
Before
http://youtu.be/tZ2Wi6Chsto
After
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Wow.... Nice before horn!! :sissy: (You were going to get the gay emoticon, but it appears to be missing so I'll give you "sissy") LOL
I started it with Bitsyncmaster's new RPM relay installed. Fired right up. Nice Job David!
Haven't driven the car in a long time. Couple questions.....
What lights on the dash are supposed to light up when I turn the key on? I CAN'T REMEMBER!!!! (How pathetic). My door light, seat belt light (comes on and then goes out), battery light, oil light, and brake light all come on. The lambda and fuel light do not. Sound right?
Was messing around with my power windows tonight. My passenger side is really SLLLLLOOOOOOWWWW. Does this mean the motor is dying?
Yeah if the windows are really slow the motors are ready to die. Both of mine are pretty much toast. I haven't dug into the doors yet on either side but the drivers side has now jumped the track and I have to manually shimmy it into place to get it all the way up. Sounds like we should have a window motor/regulator swap tech day. Did you ever get your clutch and brakes flushed/bled? I did my BMW the other day (uses the same cap as the DeLorean) and I'm a pro with the power bleeder. If you're still wanting a hand sometime let me know.
+1 on this. If you find yourself at Bed, Bath, & Beyond they sometimes have the liquid BKF on massive sale. Last time they did I bought a few bottles and "stocked up." LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by GS450-Junkie
Door light/seatbelt light will go out when you close the door/put your seatbelt on (buzzer tied to that too if you have it plugged in).Quote:
Originally Posted by GS450-Junkie
Battery light coming on when you turn the key is normal and mandatory for the alternator to be charging the battery properly. Goes out when the car is started assuming no problems.
Oil light I did not think came on when you turned the key. I cannot find it documented anywhere so perhaps someone else can confirm? I thought it only came on with a low oil level and not in that start-up sequence. It does not come on in my car when I start the engine.
Brake light comes on only if the parking brake lever is pulled up or there is a problem with the fluid level in the reservoir. It is not part of the start-up sequence normally if not engaged.
Lambda and fuel light not coming on at start-up is normal. They would only be lit if there is a problem (as with brake light).
I saw you post about putting in the LED window switches and blowing a fuse. Not sure if you got that sorted out or not, but I know when I replaced my switches with those same ones, it immediately corrected some bad/slow window movement. Definitely could still be a sign of the motors going out, but the switches going bad was a large part in why mine originally struggled.
Was meaning to ask you if you were able to use any of those seatbelt parts I sent you? Nice to hear you've got your car back running again.
Oil pressure light will come on at key-on, since there is no oil pressure... :)
Your after video is private so I can't see it, but that before video does sound a bit off!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Oops!! Fixed that. Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
I had DMCMW do them last winter when they stored the car. That is when they informed me that the master is leaking. :( I will get down there to Point someday. :) I have the power bleeder, just need to learn to use it as I am sure it is pretty simple.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
There it is! Yes, dramatic difference!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Today I drove the D to work. The poor car has been stuck in the garage for months while I've been travelling for work :( Nice to have it out though. Made it about 2 minutes into lunch for I got an "is it real?" question :rolleyes1:
Do you have a low voltage issue or is it just how your dash displays. Use a voltmeter to check actual voltage. My dash displayed low voltage until I improved the ground. As such, it never was a low voltage issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
As far as the melted fuse...A prevailing thought was that it is a loose connection that could cause the hot fuse. I had a melted fuse and replaced it with a pigtail fuse and it failed catastrophically and it had a VERY TIGHT connection. You can read more at: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?99...ow-hot-it-gets In my failed pigtail, I favor a high resistance ground brought on by corrosion possibly aided by out-gassing of the rubber boot. I have an Optima battery so out-gassing is not as much as a factor.
Mine has been charging for a year now without that light, just poorly, and not at all below about 2500 RPM.Quote:
Originally Posted by djdogbone
-bob
Kids are really sick at the moment, so the wife gave me a leave pass for the afternoon as I haven't taken the DeLorean out for a good month now (been really busy plus doing lots of odds and ends on the car so it's been on jack stands).
Started off bad - dead battery due to having doors open, radio on, etc whilst working on her over the past month.
So I quickly jump started her and went for a 3.5 hour drive.
Tell you what - no amount of massage, meditation, etc comes close to the relaxation and enjoyment that comes from such a gorgeous drive :)
Same story here. Light hasn't come on since May. Doesn't charge when first started, begins to charge at ~2500 RPM, maxes out at 13.5 volts. I'm planning on replacing all the instrument cluster lights and I think the ground on the rear passenger side could use a cleaning.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
That's typical of "no bulb". Problem is that in normal driving you are not usually above 2500.Quote:
Originally Posted by rdarlington
What makes you guys think it is not charging? Are you basing it on what the dash gauge reads? If so, try running a temporary jumper from the ground cluster to the battery NEGATIVE and see if the gauge reads better. Mine did.Quote:
Originally Posted by AugustneverEnds
Finally finished my stereo upgrade project. I've been working on it piecemeal over the past 14 months. Started with replacing the front speakers last summer, then did the rears (and picked up a sub) over the winter, now I finally got the amp installed. The sub I've had in my car for the past 8 months has finally come to life!
I'm using the XD300/1v2 amp - Thanks to Jon for the amp suggestion and install location idea.
I wanted all changes to be invisible (apart from the sub in the cubby) and easily reversible. No splicing or modifications to stock wires were done (used Video Bob's Craig harness extension to avoid splicing into stock wires). I'm running left and right front speaker level signals from the Craig to the amp, and it sounds fantastic. Couldn't be more pleased with the results.
I know in terms of modern head units the Craig may be underpowered and less sophisticated, but I can turn it up past the point of my ears hurting and it still sounds good. For those wanting to maintain an original appearance while receiving a major audio upgrade, this is a great approach.
A couple photos from the whole project:
One post on a front speaker was stripped at the end, had to use an extension (not show) to grab onto the good threads.
Attachment 30220
Attachment 30222Attachment 30223
The amp I installed:
Attachment 30226
Sub that is in the DMC-CA cubby enclosure:
Attachment 30221
Attachment 30224
Ready to close it up!
Attachment 30225
Completely hidden. You'd never know it was there! This amp runs exceptionally cool and needs little air circulation. However in the remote chance it would overheat, it goes into a fail safe mode that allows for reduced output. It never shuts off entirely.
Attachment 30227
Nice and clean :thumbup2: