Great picture! Sounds like the perfect day!
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It only takes 30 seconds to detach it. Hardly an issue for engine access.
As for what I did to my D today, Returned home (375 mi) form A great Gathering at INDY. Also participated in the longest Caravan of Deloreans In US history (45) at the event. That was a sight to see.
Installed a backup hood release cable this afternoon. Much simpler than I expected the job to be. No more fear of being unable to fill my empty gas tank when 100 miles from home!
In trunk:
Attachment 10374
In footwell:
Attachment 10375
I also finished installing a new trunk release cable. It nice and secure now and should last a good long time.
I totally botched mine. I'll admit it. I bought the cable by the foot at Lowe's and I got what looked like a really nice diameter vinyl-sheathed cable, thinking the sheath would protect against rubbing and corrosion and all that good stuff. Got it home and the stuff is massive. Way thicker than I thought it was in the store. It's like twice as thick as the original cable including sheath. Whoops. Will have to try that one again. :)
Pezzo,
The lambda counter's sole purpose is to count to 30,000 miles. When it gets there, it means you should replace the O2 sensor. That's it. So if you remember via logbook, spreadsheet, calendar, etc when you've gone 30,000 miles, then you don't need it. Hence why people unplug the electrical connector or remove it and go with the one piece long speedo cable.
You mentioned adding something to the fuel. That alone would not cause the light to come on. Now on the other hand, if you were under the drivers footwell and bumped some loose wires, it's possible that set it off. If your speedo and odo don't work then the only way the lambda unit could still be counting is if your problem is between the top of the counter and the instrument cluster. Considering most people's problems are centered around the dust cap, angle drive and lower cable, I wouldn't count on this being the case.
My guess is you bumped a wire somewhere in the connection or maybe even the bulb itself.
Built a prop to hold the lower engine cover up at car shows ('tis the season...) instead of using the built in stand all the time. Just used some leftover 1/2" PVC that I wrapped in black duct tape and cut perpendicular notches in the end of. The cross braces on the underside of the cover slots perfectly into it, and the pipe rests on the air horn. Looks pretty good!
Tapped my W pip bolts out to 8mm. they werent stripped. its for a future mod. ( and because I cant find M7 bolts with Allen heads)
Tonight I installed the new windshield. This is one of the new UV and IR windshields.
Installing your own windshield isn't too difficult, you just need to be very careful and do all the proper steps.
- First, remove your old windshield, this is more difficult than installing the new one.
- Next, clean up the entire mounting area. Down to the bare fiberglass.
- Optionally, replace A-Pillar trim pieces or re-glue to A-pillar if damaged during windshield removal.
- Clean up body again.
- Set windshield on car for visual lineup and inspection.
- Jack roof to close gap in the top center between the doors.
- Remove windshield and clean both surfaces again.
- Apply 3M glass primer to both glass and car body.
- Apply 3M Windshield Urethane to car with triangular bead (or V-bead), this is important to reduce the chances of a trapped air bubble.
- Set windshield down perfectly the first time. Gently push down around all edges to push into the adhesive.
- Shut doors with windows open. Let sit for a day.
A few images...
Practice V-Bead...
Attachment 10403
Image showing gap in center of roof. The corners of the windshield were sitting on the car. Enlarge image to see circled area.
Attachment 10402
Final install done!
Attachment 10404