1982 Frame Off Restoration

Check out DeoxIT products for electrical connections for cleaning and protecting them. Their products are highly recommended on the motorcycle and Corvette forums I frequent. This is where I learned about it. Not cheap but is worth it. I have used it and works very well.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f

I am impressed with all of the work you and Tam have done. Also have learned a lot from it. I really enjoy following your posts and look forward to them. Don't give up and thanks for all your posts. :cheers:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JETS 81 DMC

Check out DeoxIT products for electrical connections for cleaning and protecting them. Their products are highly recommended on the motorcycle and Corvette forums I frequent. This is where I learned about it. Not cheap but is worth it. I have used it and works very well.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f

I am impressed with all of the work you and Tam have done. Also have learned a lot from it. I really enjoy following your posts and look forward to them. Don't give up and thanks for all your posts. :cheers:

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Thanks for the info and kind words. This helps when I don't feel like spending and hour or more uploading to the forum after a long day.

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Here's some more pictures of what Tam got done.
We were just going to get a fiberglass front facia but if we can get almost all of the nuts off without breaking the studs we may just try reinforcing the eyebrows on this facia.
One thing I find interesting is that they have a fiberglass reinforcement plate running underneath the facia but it is cut out where the lights are which incidentally is right where the facia sags. Why didn't they just keep the fiberglass in these area? Anyone know?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6bb959848c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e3f9394ee3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f42c9d3816.jpg

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I was worried about taking harsh cleaners, files, wire brushes, etc. to the stock electrical connectors. My concern was if they were copper plated metal rather than full copper. So I tested grinding away on a spare plug connector. I was happy to find that they are copper all the way through.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...037c875721.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cc72aa53f0.jpg

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We worked on the car for a few hours after work today.
Tam worked on the front facia and put another coat of Flexseal on the front bumper.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e5e9761a03.jpg

Funny story about the facia. I had her doing all kinds of crazy stuff to remove the nuts without snapping the studs because I thought that there were studs made into the facia like the rear one. I didn't even notice that there is a separate plate that the studs are welded into. Duh. While I was helping her try to chisel one of the nuts off the metal plate just fell out of the facia. [emoji2955]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...639c802a2f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ef25a7929b.jpg
I think in the end we had a total of four snapped studs. Looks like a pretty easy fix though. Cut the threaded part off some bolts and weld them onto the long metal part.

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I tied a new washer fluid tube onto the old one to pull it through the dash. I used the threaded part of a small bolt to hook the two together lined up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...039d49c762.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9030d044bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e9bf898e98.jpg

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I removed the windshield cowl. It's a shame that one section of it is broken up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d9006c5e1a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c86f41497c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6c0ec516d6.jpg

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I replaced one of the two conductor plugs with a new one and checked on my Great Stuff wire insulation repair.
There was no avoiding it anymore. I had to try to pull the main harness back through the tub. I tried three times and it kept getting stuck so I got Tam to help. We were able to get it thankfully.
Tam cleaned the drivers front part of the underside of the tub with scrub brushes and simple green.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2c455d95eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ed0f8a9654.jpg

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We are getting really close to being ready to put the body back on the frame finally. I did some final checks and found the top pin of one of the church connectors in the bulkhead plate was not fully seated. I tried pushing from inside the car with no luck. I was going to remove the church connector from the plate but the tub is blocking this from happening.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e08ffe41c8.jpg
I'm not sure if this is normal or not. I'm wondering if the hole in the tub should have been cut larger.


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Here's my list of last things that I think we should do before installing the body on the frame.

1. I haven't removed the 90 Degree fitting from the evaporator drain and installed a longer hose. Is this a mandatory mod? So the issue is the 90 plugging up correct?
2. Clean middle part of underneath of tub (not super important but no better time to do it)
3. Wire wheel back side of glued on studs that hold the center console on then paint.
4. Wire wheel body mount washers and paint.
5. Fix dislodged pin in church connector in engine bay.
Maybe-
6. Remove bulkhead plate, remove all church connectors, remove tape and rearrange wiring then retape. * I taped these wires up before I had the church connectors plugged into the plate then when I plugged them in it seemed like some of the wires were way too tight while others had a lot of slack.
7. While bulkhead plate is off cut opening in tub up higher so top church connectors can be removed without removing the plate. Unless it is supposed to be like this.


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