Printable View
Accidentally drove over a concrete block at a local car gathering. :sad30::sad30:
Took some of the epoxy off the rear of the frame. I heard POR15 is the way to go? Anyone used this stuff before?
I'm thinking of touching it up, not to strip and repaint the whole rear of the frame.
I know the colour wont match, but I don't want the rust to blow out on it.
All good, decided to use KBS Rustcoating as recommended on other threads I have read. Colour looks pretty close too.
How about this: the day after I was spotted on Instagram last week, the DeLaparazzi was all over me! Didn't even buckle my seatbelt before some guy came up to talk to me about my car! And all I did was drive it to work...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
(Not that it was a bad thing -- I always love it when people ask me about what I'm driving! :biggrin: )
Today, I gave my DeLorean one round of heartbreak, and one round of rejoicing. First for buying another D, second for promising NOT to maker her a clone of Egull! :wink:
ripped apart the interior, to give the carpets and trim a good cleaning. took all 4 wheels off to clean them, clean/inspect front and rear suspension/brakes, etc. started making my list of things to upgrade/recondition/replace (i'm looking at you front swaybar & mounts). cleaned out and washed the luggage compartment and slightly spruced up the engine compartment.
Attachment 30627Attachment 30628
don't worry, the wheel in the foreground isn't laying on its face in the 2nd pic. its up on wood blocks against the tire. :)
This looks like Dave's DMCMW MOMO version wheel
Edit... Damn tapatalk
Sorry guys this reply should have been a few posts back.
Installed new A-1 window motors. Went a little easier than I thought it would which is a nice change of pace for this car I guess. One question though. When I drop the window the long metal piece that feeds into the blue rubber hose on the bottom of the motor gets pushed off even though it is clamped on there. I don't want this to continue to happen when I get the door all put back together. Hose clamp? Anyone else have this problem?
Also....went for a drive and saw this: (Reminded me of this forum). :umm:
Bottomed out front end of my car pulling into a garage here in NYC a little too quick. This is exactly why I won't lower it.
No damage thankfully other then pushing the radiator brackets back half an inch. I'll address that eventually
foot well lighting!!!
Attachment 30663Attachment 30664Attachment 30662Attachment 30661
Got my center console recovered in black. It's been out of my car for years....can't remember how I took it out.:hysterical: Ahhh...yet another adventure.
Love it!!!! Care to post some instructions?Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?15...371#post156371Quote:
Originally Posted by alexwolf1216
Ha! ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Simon,Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
I had a sneaky brake fluid leak that I hadn't discovered. I stripped the frame wherever the paint had been dissolved, ground the frame down to the metal and painted 2-3 layers of Gray POR-15 Rust Preventive, pn 45208 for the pint. This stuff dries rock-hard, like glass - awesome. I highly recommend it! BTW, the gray color is very close to our frame gray.
Henrik
Hi Henrik,Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrik
I tried to get some POR15, but it's a rare product here and the supplier that I could find only had "Black". When I requested if I could have "Gray", it seemed to be a hassle for him to order it, plus he only had 500ml which I only need less than half to touch up.
But I managed to find KBS Coating which is pretty much the same product. Comes in gray as well. There supplier was really helpful.
I only need to touch up a few spots. I'm guessing no harm painting large areas (on top of the epoxy) when it's thoroughly cleaned?
NICE!!Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
I'm definitely going to do this someday. Jeremiah showed me his setup at DCS and I really liked it. :rock_on:
Should have asked for grey ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
That's what I use - great stuff and comes with a complete kit of all the treatments.Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
LOL! I changed the spelling as I didn't want to cause a debate on here. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
I got the Sampler kit which comes with the AquaClean, probably what you got as well. :) So it should not be an issue at all when I prep and paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
How did the colour-color match up with KBS Grey-Gray with the frame Tillsy?
It looks exactly like you'd imagine the frame would have brand new. So colour wise a dead on match, but condition wise it's a bad match - the old is very dull, filthy, and matte whereas the new is bright, shiny, and sexy :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
Thought I had a picture uploaded here of the frame extension work I did recently, can't find it though. Here's a shot of the brake fluid damage I fixed inside the fuel tank area a couple of years ago...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=11610
Removed headlight assemblies and front fascia.
Painted headlight assemblies & replaced adjusters, removed eyebrows.
The headlight area had a few mouse-nests when I bought it, I'm now going to clean out the entire area and hopefully remove the smell that's been making it into the cabin. Also hoping to resolve the gap where the fascia meets the fender.
just for curiosity, is it possible to remove both headlight assemblies without taking off the front fascia?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
Yes, I did it early this year when I was a new owner, but I think it's a PITA and too much risk of scratching the fascia (like I did.)Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
After dealing with all the different headlight assembly screws & fasteners, then comparing that to removing the fascia, my preference is to remove the fascia.
It's not only easier & less risk [for me,] it's also faster.
Reveiced my Fan Fail module and Fan relay back from bitsyncmaster and installed them right away. Working great again!
Checked my oil drip pan and I still have gear oil leaking out of my final drive even after giving the bolts along the split seal a bit more torque and tightening the fill and drain plug after filling her up. Drive shaft seals look leaky although they got replaced about 5 months ago. Might need to return to DMC NW to leave more money there.
Used my "Edding" pen to paint raised white letters to my front Cooper Cobra tires. Still need to do one more "Cooper Cobra" line on the passenger side. It still looked ok with the white color applied by my friend Dave, but it will not hold for long while the Edding stuff is really looking great and holding up (did the Passenger tire a few weeks ago).
I can provide pictures if desired.
Car started up after 3 primes. Have a weird start up issue since Dave (sdg3205) and I (mostly him, due to my lack of experience with the car and my tendency to break $hit. I rather trust somebody who did it several times before than me trying for the first time when it comes to high pressure fuel lines) replaced my fuel lines with the stainless steel braided ones I got from DMC NW. The car will fire up (after priming) and die right away after one turn when it got a rest for several days. The idle will be rough if it starts after several attempts and primes for a little while (doing the Marty McFly gas paddle during crank) and then go back to normal idle.
This issue does not occur if I only let the car rest for a few hours or one or two days. I have the feeling that something is not sealed properly and the system is leaking just a bit of gas somewhere to empty the lines or drop pressure (just a feeling). I might open a different thread in case that we cannot figure out what is going on.
Major rewiring complete and AC LED panel finally installed.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1410533426
That's looking awesome? Is this the panel from Dave (bitsyncmaster)?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
That looks prett badass!
Yes, it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
Assuming your fascia paint job is solid, that is.
All you do is put down one or two layers of painter's tape (blue masking tape with low adhesion) on all sides of the fascia openings around the headlights first.
Then go at it, making sure not tear any of the tape with whatever tools you use to get the headlight hardware out and back in again.
After you reassemble then remove the tape.
Be careful on the vertical edges of the fascia just outboard of both of the lowbeams. If you do any prying to move it aside use a wide, flat tool so as not to tear it up. It is supposed to flex but it can tear or crack if you don't use a soft/wide tool to push it aside.
Went for a cruise with Dan O'connel (2991) and took along Homer the puppy.
Deloreans are amaze balls, but a Delorean AND a puppy?! Face melter.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...180bb19549.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...6418cacbfd.jpg
Went for a 100 mile drive to enjoy a custard berlina (yes absolutely worth it!!!) and ticked over to 18000 miles today - so that's 6000 trouble-free miles since restoration.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1410677024
The Original DMCH aftermarket steering wheel adapter is 3.25". The MOMO EVO wheel is nearly flat (no dish). This combination only leaves about 3/4" space between turn signal stalk and wheel. Not enough room for my big fingers.
A quick search on EBAY came up with this 1/2 inch spacer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/390390084948...84.m1497.l2648
Attachment 30743 Attachment 30744 Attachment 30745 Attachment 30747 Attachment 30746 Attachment 30748 Attachment 30749 Attachment 30750
Like the DMCH adapter, this spacer has the same 2 hole patterns. 70MM(2.75") Momo pattern and a 74MM(2.89") pattern.You mount the spacer to the adapter using the counterbored 74MM hole pattern with the M6 socket head bolts provided. This maintains the wheel position so that the 70MM pattern aligns with the 70MM pattern of the adapter.
NOTE: If you were too use the counterbored 70MM holes in the spacer to mount it to the adapter, the wheel would be off several degrees and would need to be repositioned to the steering column shaft.
The kit comes with M6 x 25MM countersunk screws to mount the wheel to the spacer/adapter. I did NOT use them even though the threaded holes aligned between the adapter and spacer, the thread cuts do not match up. I just reused the M6 x 12MM screws with the original wheel installation.
NOTE: I believe the latest version of the DMCH adapter is longer than the original one they used to sell. A spacer is not required for that one. I also checked the DMCH website. They currently show $0.00 (no stock) for the adapter.
Anyway, It's sure nice to have finger clearance again.
The DMCH one is NLA - the new one is by DMCMW.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Was not aware of that, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Found water in the oil so I pulled this intake and found this little hole, time to research my options.
Attachment 30751
Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
Here's a pic of when I did it:
Attachment 30752
Headlight assemblies and eyebrow repair on Thursday-Friday.... A/C flush, vacuum, and charge on Saturday.
Attachment 30757 Attachment 30758
Attachment 30755
Just make sure and do a follow up call to Hervey. Its the old school way to handle orders. after my checkup call found out my order was misplaced, but he took care of it quick. Product was very satisfactory(ac hoses). Good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
Rebuilt my clutch master cylinder and replaced fuel pump. Now to bleed it!
Thanks Chris!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
I managed to paint under the frame over the weekend (scuffed parts). Yeah, it was lighter in colour but it's definitely strong/lethal stuff! If I could redo the whole frame, this would be the stuff to use!
This is ingenious, Dave! A great way to attrackt chicks to the car. Like bait'n switch! :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Went to a car show in Summerland, BC on Saturday. What an awesome crowd and the car's there were a great mix. Nice weather and the drive from Vancouver through the Cascades was epic.
Attachment 30762
Met a fellow DeLorean colleague there who says that he is just starting with getting to know and use the Internet better. He had two DeLoreans so far and sold one but could not stand the void and now has this one.
Attachment 30763
It is VIN 11238 and he kept it in great condition. He researched a lot on his own and found a lot of replacement parts due to the lack of access to DMCH or this great forum. He is a time capsule owner from before the Internet times. We exchanged contacts and I will see how our little crowd in the lower mainland can help him to keep his beauty on the road.
He built this:
Attachment 30764
He said that it always looked as if you could "look the DeLorean under the skirt" and he felt the need to get this resolved. He wants to redo this one day and make it out of a solid piece of stainless. It finishes off the line of the car and he is right. I am not sure if the muffler can still get efficiently cooled though. But it is a great idea.
He was very interested in Dave McKeen's relays and I will connect the two to do some business.
He sold his first D to a friend in Surrey, BC and he said that they were unable to get it started. I will see if we can connect witht his guy as well and see what we can do for him.
3922 performed very well. The Fan Fail started to flash a code on the way to Kelowna and I will have to find out what that code was. It did not do it on the way back. The driver's side front wheel bearing started to squeek. Very annoying. It goes away for a bit if you break but will come back. Dave G. already told me that it is not an expensive part and I will order it soon.
I will probably start another thread with some pics from the show.