One of my door rub strips had slowly come loose in the middle. The other one wasn't like new, either.
Both strips are now back on tight and straight. 3M Super Strength Molding Tape is my friend today.
Printable View
One of my door rub strips had slowly come loose in the middle. The other one wasn't like new, either.
Both strips are now back on tight and straight. 3M Super Strength Molding Tape is my friend today.
So, I conducted the hose test and still could not locate the originating point of the sound..... I decided to start eliminating components. I removed the compressor belt and it still had the sound. Then I took the alternator belt off, and sound is gone! So....I guess I either have an issue with the alternator or the water pump. I can spin both the water pump pully and the alternator individually and they seem fine with no sound. Though it does look like the finned pully on the alternator doesn't spin quite true. It seems a bit warped. I wonder if that could be the issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
I put the alternator belt back on and tightened it up and boy does it squeal now! Is it possible to tighten it up too much???? How tight should the tension be on these? I thought it was a little loose before I took it off, but tightening it seems to really make either the alternator or water pump very unhappy..... I wonder if the PO loosened the belt just enough to get rid of most of sound in order to sell it??
I'm not really sure of my next step here.....
If you want to find if the noise is in the water pump vs. alternator, you can use a lot of different things as a "listening rod."Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
I've used a long 3/8" extension, piece of rebar...etc. Rest one end on either component and hold the other end "cupped" to your ear....you should easily hear what you're looking for.
My explanation might not be so good, here's a video link (the first minute is pretty goofy, worthwhile to skip over it.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mpNRJ7m-c8
The good news is that you're well on your way to it not being a huge deal! :thumbup:
It's a little late for the advice but you might have wanted to push against the free span of the belt to get a feel for the tightness before you made your adjustments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
True belt squeal is due to low tension - belt is slipping over at least one of the pulleys.
Water pump or alternator noise are possible but usually sound more like a bad bearing, sort of a grinding noise, lower pitch.
As for setting the tension try pushing on the top span of the belt midway with your thumb. Push hard. Shoot for ~1/2in. deflection as measured from a straightedge across the top of the pulleys. Anybody can chime in with a better deflection value or method.
PS, while you are there think about replacing the belt unless you know it's younger than that.
My fuel pump is keeping me on my toes. the loud constant humming has gone away even when the car has been running for a while.
When I went to start it yesterday and put the key into the accessory position the fuel pump came on as it normally does but stayed on for a good 20 seconds. And I'm the cold start issue is still present.
Started the car on Saturday again after 2.5 weeks having it sit. Man, what a rough start again. I still have to troubleshoot my cold start issue. Got a few good ideas from reading through the forum and will check my Thermo Switch as soon as possible. I have the feeling that it might be on its way out and work intermittent.
Took the car for a spin around the block to get the fluids moving at least a bit. COntemplating to take the car to a car wash as the weather sucks and I cannot wash it in front of my garage (or in the garage), but still want to have it in nice shape for winter.
I took her to dinner and on the way home I lost my headlights. Looks like my headlight switch finally gave out. It's a part that I kept thinking I should replace but never did. Oh well, it made it 32 years this month at least.
Today I took the spare tire to a tire shop as it was at least 15 years old. So I had it checked. The man working at the shop told me it was perfectly ok for a spare. So I actually didn't spend any more or changed a thing to my car... :).
Did you mark the date so you go for your next checkup in 15 years?Quote:
Originally Posted by robvanderveer
What's the update on the noise?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
to be honest, Im still a bit stuck..... I have used a rubber hose line to my ear to isolate the sound, but couldnt tell. Tomorrow I will try a screw driver and if that doesnt work I was thinking of purchases a stethoscope. I would really like to find the source of the sound prior to throwing money at parts that don't need replaced......Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
Unfortunately the water pump and the alternator is about the same price...... One with much more labor to replace than the other.
I appreciate the thought though and will accept any new advice that may come across regarding the situation. I will also post an update when the problem is finally put to bed.
Thanks.
...covered it.
Couldn't help but notice stuff leaking out of the transmission. And some coolant on the floor, too. Oh, well. *shrug*
noticed a bit of oil on the garage floor after getting back from the local Cars and Coffee... and some wetness/coolant around the bottom of the water pump. looks like a new water pump and new rear main seal are in my near future.
Alfa Romeo owners start to worry when it stops leaking. That usually means that the engine is out of oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Thought through my approach to my cold start issue. I had the same happening on my VW Westfalia camper van and we ended up replacing the thermal switch on the Westfalia, which tells the system that the car is cold and the engine will need more gas. It sits in the coolant system and picks up the temperature from the coolant.
I read that the DeLorean has the same with the Temp sensor close to the coolant pump and that it is usually the first thing to look/replace when having a cold start issue. What I did manually (or better said with my foot) by pushing down the gas pedal while cranking in order to push more fuel into the engine is basically what the CSV is doing when the car starts cold. In order to do this the CSV needs to get the circuit grounded by the Temp II sensor while starting, which does so when cold. I measured resistance through the sensor and it was fine when the engine was cold yesterday, but I noticed that the cable connector was not sitting 100% correctly. I made sure that there was no dirt in it and properly seated it. I made sure that the rubber cover is properly seated as well. And guess what: the car fired right up although it had not been running for 1 week, which usually gave me a really rough start.
I have the feeling that we yanked a bit on the cable tree when installing the SS fuel lines and probably disconnected the connector from the Temp II, which you cannot see if the rubber cover is still sitting on the Temp II housing.
I will not call the search off just now and will monitor, but I am confident that it will continue to work after my initial test.
I just got my refinished binnacle back from the Vynl repair shop and installed it back on the car! It really turned out good!!! No more cracks.....
It was the best $100 I've ever spent" :biggrin:
Now, if I can just get that pesky engine noise to go away..... I'm still waiting on my engine stethoscope to arrive in the mail......
Drained the tank and pulled the battery, (which was dead, for some reason...) and prepared for winter. :( They are calling for snow. Pulled out my "Winter Project List" and started reviewing it.
When was the last time you drove it or ran the engine?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
Check the weep hole behind the water pump pulley. If it's wet plan for a pump. If dry it's more likely the VOD coupler hose clamps need tightening.Quote:
Originally Posted by novadmc
yep. thats what i did. clamps were nice tight and dry (insert any joke you want there). weep hole was definitely damp.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
A week or so before I laid it up. Might have been 12 days. I jumped it to move it, and it started right up. Wonder if that is part of my cold start issue... Also, I wasn't able to get all the gas out of the tank. This is my first winter with the car, so is this a big issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
I wired up my battery cutoff relay. Getting ready to put the center console back on but thinking about cleaning up that rats nest (wiring) under the radio. It looks like the radio install and the power antenna wires were just wrapped and taped when they installed it. To clean it up I should pull the radio mounting bracket.
Add some fuel stabilizer (Stabil is one kind) if you don't plan to run it for >3months. Try to get it into the engine (start and run long enough to warm engine).Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
A good battery should last longer than 12 days between starts in a D unless you left something "on". Even if you are still running the OE door lock module.
So you might be looking at a new battery this winter.
Thanks, Rich. I will look into the battery. I have a list of stuff I want to do, so I will add it to the list. I don't have enough fuel to get the car to start. It tries, catches and dies. There is that small of an amount in the tank. I can see some still in there though. Still worth running the stabilizer through it? I'm game if I should.
Got her ready for the trick or treaters...and carved a pumpkin!
Only a little bit of stabilizer, then. Read the directions and ration it according to what's in the tank. A little Stabil goes a long way. You really do want to get it thru the engine whenever you can get her to go, so as not to have the gas in the plumbing start to cause problems by springtime. Not critical, assuming the fuel system is in decent shape, just a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kukem
Kudos for that masterpiece!Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
I agree with Rich on this. Getting the fuel stabilizer into the lines to and around the engine and not just the tank that is. If the car sits for the winter season, I think it's those little lines that would be the first to become problematic and not the tank itself. Long term the tank gets messy, but in a short storage window, those lines are the focus. Similar for your lawnmower or snowblower (which I'll add stabilizer to and then run until it runs out of gas.) With the D, run it with stabilizer in the tank until it gets warm and you know it's throughout. Driving it while doing this is good to so that taking a couple corners sloshes the fuel around and mixes up the stabilizer with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
Thanks...i surprised even myself!Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
Thanks again, Rich... and you too, Jonathan. I will go and get the stabilizer this weekend. May do a small mix and try to devise a way to get it into the system without having to put a lot of gas back into the tank. Getting it out the first time was not a great experience.
You really don't need to drain the tank again. Just add some stabil too a gallon of gas. Poor it in fire up the engine for a minute and your good to go.
Frankly I've never bothered with adding stabil or draining the tank for winter storage over my 20 year ownership. My car is driven annually though. It would be a different story if I had to park it for years. Where I do winterize or long term storage is in small engines with carburators. Idle jets and float bowls love to get gunked up. Typically I will drain them dry. This reminds me it's time too poor the gas out my weed whacker.😜
Celebrated 6 years of ownership today by (almost) finishing my new winter storage garage in the back yard. Hopefully I'm 100% done before the snow comes.
This arrived today:
Attachment 31360
Nothing like a little piece of mind, just in case! My cat, Alice, was not included with this shipment. :)
-Removed the angle drive.
-Removed one of the axles, preparing for boot replacements.
-Admired it, and reveled in the glory of having it parked in my garage. :rock_on:
Today I made a cover for the ignition resistors and the light switch in the engine bay.
I think the bare fixture of the ignition resistors is a real eyesore.
I made a cover of stainless steel and I am pleased with the way it looks.
Keep an eye on that wiring. Those resistors get VERY hot. The cover box should be more ventilated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
Thanks for the tip Dave.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
I already removed the box.
I didn't realise that the resistors were getting that hot.
So I guess it is better to keep the resistors uncovered?
I've seen nice covers made of stainless screen, or with the sides and bottom open.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
Ok, back to the drawing board.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Stainless screen is a good idea. Let's see if I can find some screen or mesh. Otherwise I'll start drilling a lot of holes in the box I already made.
This time I'll post the result before fixing it to the car ;).
Did some drilling this evening.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Do you reckon with these holes the box will be enough ventilated?