Is the bottom wide open? Should be OK, nothing is as good as out in the open but this is much better than a closed box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
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Is the bottom wide open? Should be OK, nothing is as good as out in the open but this is much better than a closed box.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pascal
Thanks a lot Dave for your advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
The bottom is wide open.
I will give it a try and keep a close eye on the wiring.
Took her to work today to see if the cold start issue has been resolved. And it is! Whohoo! Fired right up after 1.5 weeks. :headbang:
Next up: final drive seals.
Volker - what was the issue?
We must have tugged on the cable tree when we removed and re-seated the CSV and WUR plugs, which caused the connector for the Temp II Sensor to slip off, but hide the fact by keeping the rubber boot still slightly attached to the back of the sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
The sensor on the water pump?Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Yes. The Thermal Time Switch. I always confuse the naming for my two cars (Temp II is on the VW Vanagon but it has the same function).Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Bless you Dave. The man at the right place. I was just wondering why my resistors were getting so hot and smelled. Thought I had a short somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
But is it natural to heat up all the attached wiring harness that much to the point of smelling.? It does not smell like burnt. Just like very hot wiring. I found that a bit extreme.
-Replaced the broken trip reset shaft.
-Polished the gauge cluster lens.
-Installed the Stephen fiberglass repro binnacle for pics and to decide if I want to keep it (versus original repaired binnacle.)
drove it to the local Cars and Coffee meetup. left the house with ~1/4 of gas in the tank. got home with ~1/2 tank. i didn't stop at the gas station.... :8ball:
probably will add the updated DMC fuel pump/sender combo to my winter to-do-list with that gauge being so inaccurate at times.
Reached 500 miles on the partial odometer since I started driving the car! What a nice outcome! :cheers:
then I also became aware that if you park the car on a slope (one side sits deeper that the other side) the door that stands lower hardly stays up, while the other and higher door goes up like a rocket in space! :hihi2:
It's just physics, I guess.... :clown:
Tucked it away for a long winter nap :-( Forecasting 11"-19" of snow in the next day or so. The good news ... the snowblower is parked where the D was and is ready for action. Till next year...
Finally got around to installing a new Otterstat, Found that the local wholesale parts supplier WorldPac, carries the right part that also fits '80s volvos. The otterstat has a much lower activation temp than before and was only $4!
No more worrying about overheating from fans not working!
Gravity! ;) without it, torsion bars would have been eliminated :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnZ
Took it out for a trip to a board game day at a friends place. It was raining when I went there and the oil light started light up first dim and then stringer until full light and went back dark after a while. Checked oil and everything is fine. Light did not come up on the way back. It was dry on the way back. Maybe has something to do with the wet day. The warning light is a LED. I did never see an LED dim before. :umm:
Car ran fine. I enjoyed the ride.
Some thoughts for you Volker:Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
The oil warning light is for oil pressure, thus not an easy thing to directly check for afterwards on the side of the road or at a gas station.
What did you check the oil for? Level? Colour? Smell? Overall appearance?
Those things are good to monitor, but may not always indicate a problem or lack of one if the oil pressure warning light comes on. You might have lots of good quality oil in the engine but something is affecting how well it is circulating or building up pressure.
Was it changed recently? The type of oil you use, viscosity and temperature outside the car is in all affect the pressure.
Perhaps most relevant, what was your analog gauge reading at this time when the warning light came on? Was it up to a normal/high mark on the gauge? Typically people think of the warning light sender being more accurate than the gauge, but it's worth noting if your gauge was low as well.
Known issue re moisture.Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Same symptoms plus likely causes listed here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?799-Oil-Pressure-Warning-Light-comes-on-when-driving-through-rain
Presumably your oil press. gauge isn't showing a problem.
I simply checked if I had enough. Oil level is ok. Oil got replaced in the beginning of the year (maybe 7 months ago when we restored the car).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Gauge reading was normal (fluctuating with RPM between standing at a light where it drops into the lower half and high up nearly at max when driving on the highway).Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Thank you for the link. This was exactly it. I need to investigate. Have a DMCH stage 1 and I am not sure if my catalytic converters may toast the connector. There is a bit of oil leaking from the sender and I will probably get this replaced and the wiring taken care of during one of my project days in the winter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
Thanks so much!
Just installed my new tachometer that I purchased off ebay. Got everything done turned the key and for the first time it dropped to 0. :o . Ive had the car a little more than 2yrs now and I have never known my idle speed or seen the revs when changing gears (learned to drive stick on my D and just listened). So it turns out Ive been changing gears at the 3k rev mark and after rebuilding the engine the idle sits a beautiful 750 on the money. Could not be happier! $12.95 for a new stock tachometer! Cant beat it. Thank you millie for listing these and not killing people with the price and a HUGE thank you to Mike A for letting me know when they went up for sale. :nana2:
-Driver's side axle boots.
-Went for [what appears to be] the last drive of the season.
I finally got my car tucked away for the winter. I spent more time than I could have ever imagined fixing up my detached garage in my back yard to animal-proof it and repair rotted framing and siding. I'm hoping I won't find any surprises from critters come springtime. I also put down a race deck floor to help with moisture coming up from the concrete...Plus it looks badass. Finally a nice place to store the car for winter hibernation.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1415810491
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...3&d=1415810598
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1415810491
Very awesome floor!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Took car for a trip to work again. Nice ride, although my final drive is still heavily dripping. I am waiting for the last speedi-sleeve to schedule the beginning of the winter projects, which includes the attempt to stuff all easy accessible leaking areas of the final drive. I will have to pull the engine if this does not fix it to reseal the split seal. I am crossing fingers that I do not have to do this.
Great job on your garage floor :wrenchin:
I like that floor....badass for sure! :rock_on:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Thanks for the positive feedback on the floor, I'd been wanting a race deck floor like that for years and finally convinced myself to go for it.
The main bonus for me was being able to move it into my main garage in in the spring and enjoy it all summer, then move it back in the storage garage for the winter. I can partially disassemble and then reassemble in about a half hour.
I have had the race deck flooring in my garage for 10 years now and it still looks great. The white tiles get dirty(obviously) but they clean up real nice.
I was considering black and white instead of black and silver (alloy) but decided to go with the sliver since I figured it would be easier to keep clean. For the outer border I went with graphite. It's great stuff, glad to hear yours is holding up after 10 years.
I have almost the same floor in my garage :)
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10...m-France/page2
ditto. sorry the wrong car is in the front of the photo. great floor system.
Attachment 31540
Something I've wondered about with that floor system, and since the OP moves his floor this is a good time to ask.
Can you rinse it off with a hose/scrub brush? If you do, does water get under it and get moldy/stay wet? What happens if you spill, say, coolant or oil on it? Do you end up tearing it up to clean it out (old coolant gets smelly if left alone) or ignore it?
the tiles fit very tight, but water could probably get through. I haven't hosed it in the 10+ years I've had it down. i've mopped it a few times. I don't think mold would grow without a food source, so I doubt that would be an issue.
I have mopped mine with a damp rag/mop but I have never gotten it wet with the hose. While the seams are pretty tight it will allow water to go underneath it
I had a lot of the same questions as you Dave...yes you can rinse it off with a hose and scrub brush. The tiles fit nice and tight together so for water to get below so you'd have to allow it to pool and sit for a period of time. Otherwise it water just beads off and you can squeegy it out the door. If you're spraying it down with a hose to get dirt and grime off you should be fine as long as you have somewhere for the water to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Also, the tiles are designed with channels and cutouts on the underside to allow water to drain out and air to get in and dry everything out. I found this article to be somewhat helpful...it compares RaceDeck to Swisstrax, a similar type of flooring and shows the channels & cutouts.
http://allgaragefloors.com/racedeck-vs-swisstrax/
For fluids that don't evaporate away like coolant and oil you'd just have to wipe the surface clean, but if you dump a quart of oil on the floor and it seeps through the cracks you may end up pulling up that section to get it clean underneath. Or you could just leave it, the floor itself will not be damaged by any typical automotive fluids.
Another alternative to consider would be the "Free Flow" style flooring from Race Deck. I went with the "Diamond" style floor which has a solid surface, The free flow floor looks like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1415890388
The open profile allows you to hose down the floor and get completely under the tiles to clean out dirt and any fluid spills. The best part is you can combine sections of free flow with the solid floor, so you you could do solid in some areas, and free flow in other areas. The radececk website has a floor designer feature so you can pick colors and floor type to figure out the exact number of tiles you'd need. It's fun to play around with and get an idea of what you'd want to do.
http://www.racedeck.com/designer.php
Nothing crazy but put on the steel lettering on the rear fascia:)
Regrained my stainless steel skis and installed a ski rack onto my luggage rack. Definitely turning heads today!
Nice picture, Volant Machete skis?
Volants that I've had for years...not sure what the model is. They were one of the last models they made with printed graphics before they started stamping the logos into the stainless. So I removed all logos and have a perfectly smooth stainless top surface on the skis.Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
Awesome like this :thumbup2:
It's not the original ski rack right? Easy fit on the luggage rack?