Printable View
You probably should chase the treads on any of the welded nuts on the frame. I had to do that to my shifter plate mounting nuts because they were so tight. I think the frame epoxy got into the treads. You want it clean to get a good ground.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Put in my first order for parts for the winter from DMCMW. Got some great help over the phone too, while doing it.
I just installed my new Cooper Cobras with factory sizes and tredwear lettering on the fronts!! Now I just need to figure out how to get the door adjusted so that the body lines match up. Any suggestion on how to do that? :dunno:
I said hello to it for the first time in weeks. Got some ideas for future projects.
And a couple of kids stopped by and took pictures with their smartphones.
Met Andrew Probert at a BTTF special effects panel event.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Probert
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...f914f425b9.jpg
Once the door closes properly - you may have to align the fenders, etc. with the doors. It can be time consuming.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
I have done that. its been working fine for 2 weeks til todayQuote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Nice touch! I so want those tires! Where'd you find them!?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
I purchased the rears in a 235/60/R15 here locally, and the fronts, 195/60/R14's I was able to purchase off of Josh "fluxin" out of Canada. He was able to find a tire dealer near him with a small stock of NOS. I'm very happy with the look. Though I think I may now get a set of lowering springs to give me the stance I've always dreamed of.Quote:
Originally Posted by skill
Yeah, right now I'm waiting on my new inner and outer door seals to arrive. Once they are installed I'll see how it sits and start attacking the alignment of the door. Hopefully everything works out.:nervous:Quote:
Originally Posted by hmcelraft
Continued tearing apart the interior to prep for new radio install (double DIN), and re-routing the AC to the knee pads:
Attachment 32760
Attachment 32761
Attachment 32762
Attachment 32763
The new vents look great!Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Babb
I am thinking about doing this as well and have a couple of questions for you -
Are you going to have 4 like Patricks, or just 2?
What style vent are you using? Make & model.
what sort of vent tubing are you using?
Did you block off the vents behind your stereo, or are you using them? If so, how did you go about adapting the rectangular vents behind the stereo to round vent tubing?
Any information or pics would be great!
I know the question was directed at Mike, but I spoke with him this morning and can chime in on a few things. He is using Mitsubishi Eclipse vents like I did. For these you will need 2.5" flexible air ducting as well as a Y adapter if you want two vents on the passenger knee pad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
So if you used y adapters on both sides did you just block off the openings for the rectangular vents behind the middle console? If so what did you use to block them with?Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick C
I removed the lever for the actuator that opens the center vents (accessible if you remove the glovebox.). I then used aluminum foil tape over the vent openings behind the console just to prevent any air leakage there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
Almost shared this link on my original post. Thanks again to Patrick for pointing me in this direction:
http://nostalgicac.com/2-5-inch-duct...y-adapter.html <--the 2.5 inch Y adapter to re-route air to the new vents.
As i mentioned, the vents that I am using are out of an early 2000's Mitsubishi Eclipse (tons of them on eBay at the time of this writing) - kinda ironic to me, as a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse was the first car that I ever bought new off of a dealership lot. I actually got a set of 4, that have 2 different setups (2 of each type):
Attachment 32765
Attachment 32766
The vent on the left, will be used on either side of the steering column. these take a 2.5 inch hole and will be fixed (non-rotateable), but you can open and close the vent itself. There is just barely enough room in the knee pads on this side of the car to install the vents.
The vents on the right in the pictures have an outer frame that will require between a 2 3/4 and 3 inch hole to be drilled, but will allow the vents to rotate as well as open and close. I will do two of these on the passenger side of the car. Placement is pretty well dictated by the glove box. I am going to have to figure out the changing from 2.5 inch hose to 2.75 inch vent housing. (I think I have a solution, but will have to see if it actually works once I get parts in the mail).
I just got 1 of the above Y adapters. I plan on using this on the passenger side. the Y will go on the existing hose mounting point and I will use a short section of hose to go to the left vent. The existing hose will to towards the door and will go to the right-most vent. This should be pretty easy to accomplish with minimum modification.
The Drivers side will be more interesting. I am going to leave the tubing in place that goes above the steering column. the short hose that goes to the door will be redirected to the left most vent. the tricky part is that there is no good place to install a y adapter on this side of the car. I plan on drilling a 2.5 inch hole directly in to the existing ducting. . . .somewhere around here:
Attachment 32768
and then either epoxy in a small bit of plastic tube that I can attach the hoses to, or just a hole that the tube can go in to. I was hoping to drill straight in, but will probably have to do that on the bottom, and hopefully at a bit of an angle to keep from having the AC hose go down towards the pedals before looping back up to the vent.
I have looked at the center vents, but have not done anything with them yet. I want to get my new radio in and see what the fit looks like. I like Patrick's idea of disabling the moving mechanism (I was afraid that messing with this would screw up the air going to the new vents as well). I will probably use my dremel to cut down the plastic parts of the center vent and then sealing the ports up to ensure that there is minimal air leakage. I will take pics as I work through all of this, and can make a how-to posting when I am all complete....
More to come!
For this part, I reused one of the original duct hoses that isn't as flexible as the new plastic ones. I drilled the 2.5" hole where Michael has described, then cut the end of the hose into shape so that it "snags" some of the air and forces it down, while allowing some air to pass it as well to get to the far side vent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Babb
Not the best photo, but here you can see what I did in terms of drilling the hole and inserting the hose from there to the kneepad. It works very well in terms of airflow.
Drove the D 100 miles today. No problems at all. I did remove the top door seal on the drivers side because that seal just folds over and pushes up the T panel. Some day I wand to design a new seal.
After shutting off the snowblower and putting it back in its spot behind the D, I peeled the cover back on the car, opened the passenger door and reminded myself how cool the car is. Cold too... it's 34 deg F in my garage at the moment. Brrrrr... back to the couch.
Pretty much same here too, but I didn't need to use snowblower today thank goodness.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Lined up the timing... at least, in theory...
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=32904&stc=1
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=32905&stc=1
Installed my new door seal from DMCH today. I cant get the bottom to grip, and the door is SO hard to close I broke the handle trying to open it. Major fail.
Attachment 32906
I'm currently removing parts on the rear of the car to have them re-plated. After doing reading on this forum, today I tackled the crankshaft pulley removal. After spraying WD-40 on the nut for each of the last 3 days, I followed the instructions that I read, and after 2 attempts with an impact wrench, I am happy to say that the nut loosened. So I cleaned the pulley as prep. I suspect that there may have been an oil leak at that seal, so I'll replace that as well.
Question: If I wanted to remove most of the timing cover bolts to have them plated as well, do I have to drain the engine oil? Where is the level of the oil relative to the bottom of the cover?
Thanks!
You should let your crankshaft pulley sit and rust from lack of use like mine. :P
Edit: Just realized I posted the same photo twice. It's definitely past my bedtime. Sorry! LOL
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=32908&stc=1
LOL. Actually, there was a fair amount of surface rust in the grooves, polished by the movement of the belts. But what you see in the pic cleaned up nicely with wet sanding (paint thinner with 320 then 400 ). That took it down to the clear zinc under the yellow chromate. Good enough for plating I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Can you post a photo of the part number info on your A/C belt? Something doesn't look quite right to me with how the belt is sitting in the pulley groove.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I built a ainti ice sheild for the engine out of the girl friends 82. Using a chunk of old door
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g2...psr5df6e4q.jpg
What have I done to my DeLorean today? Nothing actually.
Just wanted to share this and didn't think of a better thread to put it in...
http://www.dmc.org/about-detroit-medical-center.html
I had seen a TV commercial for it the other day watching something on the NBC feed I get at home (which is the Detroit feed for me in Ontario).
Lawyers or scorned ex-wives aside, I think it's kinda nice that this Heart Hospital and DMC logo came from Detroit, automotive history or otherwise.
Awesome looking engine!!! I wish mine looked half as good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gfrank
OK, but fair warning: judging from your signature, the state of my car will put you at risk of a stroke or heart attack.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Using Martin G's handy video, I determined that my distributor was 180° off. Having lined the timing up, I started putting things back together, and snapped a spark plug and a connector for the kickdown switch. Every time I get closer to fixing something, something else completely idiotic happens which stops me in my tracks. I am convinced that my car hates me, and I am beginning to hate it back.
Sent my car off to DMCCA today. 6 hours trip from Sacramento to Huntington Beach.
Transmission rebuilding project failed and need some professional help. Very sad.
Once it's done, I'll fly down to LA to pick it up and drive back home.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...757003903e.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...dd74cdddb9.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can't tell you how sorry I am to hear this is still causing you trouble. That is heartbreaking. At least this will take care of it once and for all. Just sucks you have to go through all this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan S.
Thanks Dave. You are like a god father to my car. :smile: Well... We gave our best shot. I came to a realization that this is no toyota and it will continue to do its thing. Price we have to pay for do it with some style. It's just a terrible timing with my lotus totalled. Good thing is that I am still alive and kicking.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Oh well. It will be fun to drive around in LA in a D. :wave2: Should stop by the universal studio to pay my respect.
Lotus totaled! I must have missed something here. Did you post something about it earlier? What model?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan S.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Babb
Any updates on this project?
About a month ago, I totaled my other toy. Lotus Elise.
Coming back from a meeting, an elderly lady who shouldn't be driving rear ended my car. While I was stopped for a red light and waiting for the light to turn green, this old lady in a huge cady coming in real fast behind me and not slowing down. I am thinking... OMG OMG please stop, please stop.... and crash. Luckily, car in front was a Smart car and I had a lot of distance in between. I banged my head and got a nasty bump. And some back pain. Other than that nothing is broken or cut. Unfortunately, my Lotus wasn't too lucky.
Crazy thing was, I felt sorry and worried for that old lady. She looked like 85 or older. But she started to blame me for not getting out of her way and claiming that I cut her off. My car wasn't even moving. Gee wiz... Fortunately, traffic camera caught the entire incident and confirmed my story. I believe her care giver lady was following her in a separate car because the care giver lady was worried about that old lady getting into an accident. That didn't help in this case.
Now I am down two cars ugggg....
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...9fa3294fdc.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...c1cc81eff3.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is all terrible, Ryan. Sorry to hear the D is also heading down to DMCCA after all that - but hopefully it will come back perfect! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan S.
Thanks Jon,
Over the weekend, I had a garage sale to liquidate all my Lotus parts and tools. Vulchers, no I mean, other Lotus owners, cleared my garage out. I felt really sad to let those things go but didn't want anything that would remind me of my old car.:drunk:
A while back my A/C fan quit working (A/C doesn’t work either, but that’s another story). Today I got around to looking into it. Checked fuses first, none bad, but while I was in the fuse box, I cleaned all the contacts.
Then I was about to go inside to log into DMCTalk to get help as to what else might be wrong with the blower motor if it wasn’t a fuse issue. Then at the last minute, I decide to check for anything amiss under the dash. Sure enough, somehow the power wire to the fan blower motor had come off. Plugged it back in, and now the fan works again.
So instead of coming on Talk and starting a new thread to ask for help about a bad A/C fan motor, I’m coming on Talk to post on “What have you done …..” that I solved my fan problem.
Thomas
...