Mmmmmmmmm. That new parts smell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
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Mmmmmmmmm. That new parts smell.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Inspected my lower ball joints. Immediately ordered new lower ball joints.
Looked at the battery cables. Looks like they are 2 gauge.
Ordered some 2 gauge battery cable & clamps.
Replaced shifter plate after breaking one bolt holding the DeClock in place.
Put the car cover on and said "good bye" to my car for the next three weeks when I will be away. :cry:
Put pen to paper planning the new exhaust system. Started pricing stuff out. Exciting stuff. :)
I took the D out for a drive today. On the way back home while shifting into 3rd gear, I noticed the rpm's didn't drop. About 2,000+? (I was paying attention to traffic not exact tach readings).
Goosed the throttle and it would go up higher but not lower so, not a stuck throttle. Looking at the gauges I noticed that the Volt meter was also spiking above normal.?
I headed for a side street so I could park and check things out and got stuck in school bus traffic. :angry0: While waiting in the jam, (With rpm's still high), I saw my temp gauge was creeping up above normal.
Just as traffic started to move I shut the car off and re-started it. Throttle/volt meter went back to normal and after driving a block the temp gauge was down to normal.
Because of the weather we'll have here for the next few days, I covered the car and will deal/check things out this weekend. Bulkhead connectors are my first suspect.
Just a typical DeLorean day... :paranoid:
George
Hi George,Quote:
Originally Posted by refugeefromcalif
I had this after they rebuilt my initial alternator. It had a defective voltage regulator, shooting up to 17-18V when the car got at temperature. This can totally screw up your electronics (Quote from Toby Peterson from DMC NW, who had a customer with that). Not sure if this will also impact your RPM gauge, but worth monitoring.
...today I found all of the parts I need for my new exhaust on Amazon.com :D
.....Today I replaced my rusty fuel filler neck with a re-furbished one from DMC. :smile: Next up......fuel tank cleaning...
New ball joints arrived! Though my ball-joint splitter is too big to fit between the joing and the rear nut on the spindle, so I need to wait for my new ball-joint splitter to arrive too -_-
Ordered MOST of the parts needed for new exhaust. Resonators, straight & bent pipes, & mufflers are all still on hold until I get the rest in place and can make precise measurements. All told, should cost about $600 and will be stainless steel except for exhaust manifolds (stock).
Ooooo. Can we have pics and sound when done .. pretty please.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Pics would be easy, sound much more difficult. But yes, I will probably make a thread for it once I start building it.Quote:
Originally Posted by krs09
Out of curiosity, looked over the math of selling my car. Holy crap is the exchange rate right now ever bad!
A Canadian buying, say, $1,000 USD worth of DMC parts in time for Spring, if you don't even count yet the regular taxes or shipping costs, is looking at about $1,280 CAD from JUST the exchange rate.
Same goes for going on vacation to the US with Canadian dollars in your pocket. Buying $100 of US cash costs $128 Canadian right now.
However, if a Canadian might want to sell their car though to a buyer in the US with those US dollars, now that $20k USD car price gets the seller $25,600 of the Canadian dollars he's spending at home anyway. And a $30k USD car sold by a Canadian equals $38,400 CAD. Not very nice for a Canadian right now wanting to buy a US based car, but boy is that math ever good if a Canadian wants to sell to the US. And the guy in the US is still paying what he intended to in the first place because it's still the same dollars to him when he spends it.
Yea, there are higher costs for customs and duty or taxes or extra shipping costs potentially, but that's quite a bit of extra fat in the budget to meet somewhere in the middle where both sides are happy with what they got.
All of the electrical stuff that I ordered online finally arrived today. I was all ready to replace the battery clamps on my daily driver ... but I couldn't find my cable cutters! :angry:
Well, I didn't have the right size of heat-shrink, anyway, so I went to Home Depot and bought cable cutters & big heat-shrink. I also bought a calliper - the old fashioned kind that doesn't need batteries - because I am tired of looking at stuff like hoses and fasteners and trying to guess how big they are. I also bought a 1/4"-drive 9mm socket, since mine went AWOL.
I cooked an early supper (Ally wasn't feeling well) and went outside to the garage to put the new tools in their places. It was a freakishly gorgeous day today. I couldn't resist the call of the DeLorean. So I sent Ally a text message to let her know that I was going to work on the car while she got some rest.
And so I went to work on removing the headers. What a nightmare. I cut the tops of both hands and ripped calluses on both thumbs and most of my fingers. On cylinder 5, I could barely get a small flat wrench in between the pipe and the stud. The only 11mm flat wrench I have is an el-cheapo Harbor Freight combo wrench that came as part of the SpecialTAuto DeLorean Emergency Roadside Kit Or Whatever It's Called, and it certainly wasn't meant to take the kind of abuse I put it through. The fit is sloppy on the open end, but the other end is a 12-point so the open end was my only option. A few times I felt the wrench start to bend and thought "Oh boy, it's time to snap another Pittsburgh wrench." But each time, CLICK -- the nut came loose! Well, actually, in two cases, the stud came loose. Nonetheless, I managed to remove the driver-side header. After loosening the nuts and/or studs by ever-so-tiny increments, they all came off/out without incident. I un-fastened the clamp that holds the Otter Switch pipe to the frame and pushed it out of the way so that I could slide the header up and over the oil dipstick tube. I just cut the oxygen sensor's wire; that thing hasn't been used since 2008, anyway.
A good close-up look at the headers shows that it wasn't just the parts closest to the road that were rusting. They're rusting up top by the flanges, too. Makes me feel better about making my new exhaust from stainless steel (except for the stock manifolds, which will be re-used).
I had to put the car up on jack-stands in order to get to the studs by cylinder 4, which was the last one I did. I had a look at the passenger side header and decided against removing it tonight. In order to remove the header, I have to remove the alternator and the oil filter. Removing the alternator is easy, but I didn't feel like draining the oil tonight. It was already after 9pm by this time.
With that header out of the way I can see for miles compared to what I could see before. I can look at the engine mount, and see that the reason the left side of my engine is black and oily is because I have a torn CV boot. When the car was parked, the tear was facing the rear, so I couldn't see it. But now I can. Nice. :)
I think I may also need to remove the oil pressure sending unit to get a wrench on the header studs by cylinder 3. Maybe not. Nonetheless, I disconnected every wire I could reach and shoved it aside. The wires by the alternator are all so stiff, though, that they just kind of hang in the air, keeping their shape no matter what I do with them.
Now I have to figure out what to do about those two studs that came out. I have no doubt that I will end up removing some studs on the passenger side, too, when I get around to it. My local Ace Hardware sells metric studs, so I will just go there and buy however many of those I need, plus 12 stainless flange nuts to put the stock manifolds back on. (Headers were put on with nuts & washers.)
All in all, I'm thrilled that it went so well. And I wasn't even planning on working on the DeLorean today. :)
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33164&stc=1
Discovered a torn CV boot - explains why the left side of my engine is filthy. :P
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33165&stc=1
Finally installed my stage 1 exhaust today, I love the sound. Stay tuned for a thread talking about the horsepower gains of the exhaust, with dyno charts before and after!
For every yin there's a yang... I'm getting rid of mine!Quote:
Originally Posted by vwdmc16
Got these for re-installing the exhaust manifolds. Highly recommended.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33211&stc=1
Are you going to sell your old exhuast? how bad off rust-wise is the rest of it?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I wasn't planning on it, but people seem interested. If I decide to do so, I will start a thread and/or an eBay auction.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
where did you get these?Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
From Bel-Metric.com.Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
swapped the spark plug cables (ht leads) which ones that better seal off the spark plugs from the weather.
Hey those are the ones I'm using you copycat!!! ;). I'll have to check their pricing to see if it's better than my source.Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
Do you also use these studs for the exhaust manifolds/headers? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ Grady Inc.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33221&stc=1
I got them from the same source -- they are shorter than stock:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33222&stc=1
...but I am hoping they will work anyway. [insert "crossed fingers" emoticon here]
Hi Farrar,
Those look a little sketchy as to the installed lenght and no we don't use them. As I've already posted I've had hardened stainless studs custom made for this appliction and you won't find them anywhere else unless DPI orders more from us. I've done a lot of exhaust system work over the years and have three kits available.
One is for the cost or "must be stock" conscious and the other two are for those who don't want to do this job again for an extended period of time compared to the stock offerings. We only use the improved kits in the shop.
I need to get so many of our new parts on our website when time permits so for now if you need things like this it is neccessary to pick up the phone and call us at (800)350-7429. Sorry for any inconvienance this may represent but were SLOWLY working to add to our new website.
Rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Finally got the front and rear suspension pulled to start my rebuild.
http://i.imgur.com/UBUR0tf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SbZGEfP.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3FClnXQ.jpg
New bushing time I think? :D
I just picked up mine replated ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
Attachment 33246
Very Nice! What are you going to do about the rubber seal that insulates the filler neck from the body? I havent been able to find a replacement via DMCH.Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
yes I know that seal is NLA so I tried to repair mine, it had about 30/40 cracks on it and I glued each one and then I painted the whole seal with a flexible paint, I think it turned out quite good:Quote:
Originally Posted by Trstno1
Attachment 33248
Yeah, that turned out great! Good job!Quote:
Originally Posted by BABIS
How did your TABs (trailing arm bolts) look when you got them out?Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
I think those are them in the box in your second photo. Had those ever been replaced before or taken out and cleaned up? What's the history on your car in a nutshell?
Just curious as logging TAB failure/condition or non-failure is a little hobby of mine.
Those are actually a combination of the rear upper/lower link bolts and the hub to trailing arm bolts. The TABs are bagged elsewhere with the shims (labelled so I don't forget which side and how many!), and since they are Tobys TABs they are in great condition :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
For your records my car had Tobys TABs put on in 2009 before my ownership. According to the P/O the originals were replaced as a preventative measure then, but were indeed bent upon removal.
Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.
a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.
Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.
Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1425755835
Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1425755847
Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1425755858
3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1425755889
Rich, did your pics get attached? I can't see them yet when I reply with quote, it looks like it is trying to reference them, but they don't appear.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich
I'd like to see pics of the inner door shield plastic and specifically how it is supposed to go as I have replacement ones for my car and don't know how they are meant to be installed. Thanks.
Revised the previous post - permissions for images weren't right. Jonathan, thx for asking. You may not see as much detail of the plastic seal sheet as you like but that's all I have of it.
Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.
a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.
Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.
Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1425755835
Attachment 33290
Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1425755847
Attachment 33291
Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1425755858
Attachment 33292
3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1425755889
Attachment 33293
Attachment 33294
Rich
The 3M strip caulk is the same stuff that is used to seal up the seams in the HVAC housing under the dash If for some reason you ever have to do an Evaporator Replacement.
Today I replaced missing the throttle link safety clips with 2 clips I made from a paperclip. Best saved $1.98 ever!
Come to think of it, I may have a few laying about as i'm sure i replaced them with the door struts years ago. No idea about the size though.
Resonators arrived today. By the end of the week I will have everything I need to construct the new exhaust. :partyhat:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=33296&stc=1