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For what its worth, I pulled my old wiring a couple of weeks ago and ran 12v to my electric choke from the RPM relay plug. The RPM relay quit working anyway so I trashed the part and installed a jumper wire into the plug. I am running 12v from the jumper wire straight to the choke and things are working, and looking great.
Here are some more pictures of the engine compartment with the new wiring loom installed; I had some sunlight today so I took advantage of it.
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One thing that bugs me is that giant thick loop; originally there was a good reason for it to be that long -- it stretched over to the cold start valve and control pressure regulator. Now the only thing exiting that giant loop on the left side is the otterstat, but I don't feel that shortening the wiring that is left is in my best interest, so it's simply tucked out of the way for now.
Farrar
Not to shabby, reminds me of Doc Ock :tongue2:
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Never heard of Doc Ock, and although my nickname is Doc, it is from Severinsen... whom probably most folks around DMCTalk are too young to remember.
Anyway, I have yet to hear back from John Hervey. Although I wish him the best, I need to get my air conditioning fixed pronto, so I will be ordering a low-pressure switch, heater core, and evaporator from Houston. I hope they all work, since they're 30-year-old parts.
Farrar
I called up Dave & Julee this morning about my evaporator/heater core replacement project. Dave said that the heater core rarely fails, but that I do have the classic symptoms of a heater core leak (foggy windshield in heat, slowly disappearing coolant), and that I might as well replace both while I am doing the work. Makes perfect sense to me. So I ordered a heater core, plus -- instead of just the evaporator -- an evaporator "kit" which contains an orifice tube and accumulator. I figure the system has been exposed to the humid air so long by now that I might as well replace the accumulator; it is, after all, relatively cheap.
I also ordered a low pressure switch because I accidentally threw out my old switch when I removed the accumulator -- oops! Fortunately, also a relatively inexpensive part.
Now I have to find some appropriate closed-cell foam to replace that which surrounds the box and has probably disintegrated over the last thirty years (hm, I wondered where that black fuzz was coming from when I turned on the a/c after a long time!), plus some adhesive cork tape, and I should be ready to do the job! I know it will be a pain, but I am excited to get it done so I can drive with a/c, which is generally necessary nine months out of the year in this climate.
I'm pretty excited! :)
Farrar
...or perhaps not a heater core.
Dave doesn't have any new ones, Houston doesn't have any new ones, and the used ones don't look so great.
So I'm not sure how to proceed -- find a radiator shop and have them pressure-test the heater core I've got once I have it out of the car?
I could also simply remove the heater core I've got and bypass it with a length of hose... I don't drive the car much in winter at all and have used the heater maybe once -- but if memory serves I have used the defogger a few times over the years, and I wouldn't want to lose that function -- in fact I was thinking today that while I'm in there it would be a good idea to re-wire the mode switch to run the compressor when the defroster/heater is engaged.
Oh dear, what to do?
Any suggestions?
Farrar
If you modify it to run the compressor in defrost mode you won't need heat. (Applies to New Orleans, not Milwaukee!).
Dave, that's what I was thinking... I will have to study the wiring diagram for the HVAC system and see how I can modify the routing behind the switch to make this happen -- unless you already know how, in which case I'm ready to take notes! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Farrar
Okay, I found it. I sure hope I can do this without destroying the switch... I'm not the best at soldering but I think I can do this.
Farrar
It appears someone has a heater core for sale:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?97...0401#post10401