What have you done to your DeLorean today?

I have the day off today so i finally got around to replacing my oxygen sensor this morning (day off and still up at 5:30 thanks to my 2 year old). I meant to do it with all my other work last month but forgot to.

anyways, here's the old sensor:
Attachment 35176

I can't imagine im running THAT lean after the last mixture adjustment so im assuming the white is due to the techron i put in after all the other work. at least that's what im going to tell myself :)

after the new one was installed i fired the car up and adjusted the dwell again as need be. its still not perfect (and i still have some metallic rattly noise under moderate to high load - not sure if pinging, so it might mean my injectors need a good cleaning (figure fuel lines are next on my list so while i'm there....)

here's the current reading with the latest adjustment after the oxygen sensor was replaced:

https://youtu.be/V1jUPJsROrg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

There was a video too that said they don't make webs - so is the one on the windshield a Huntsman?

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Nope. We would see much more of the windshield if that would be a Huntsman. :)

This is a standard wolf spider in Donegal, Ireland. Huntsman can be found in Australia and surroundings. The one in the Melbourne area are the "smaller" variety (so I heard) with a legspan of up to 15 cm. Further north you can run into the "Giant" Huntsman with a leg span of up to 30 cm. And like Tillsy said: they can run as fast as a bolt. Whew, there are times were I am happy that I stayed in Canada.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tillsy

I don't care how harmless people say huntsmen are - I still spray them enough that the bug spray foams up.

That said, don't piss a huntsman off - those things can really run batshit when they want to and will generally charge AT you not away from you :(

Hate the bastards :(

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Ahhh, Australia. The land where absolutely everything can kill you, and you'll hurt the whole time you're dying. :-P

Today I discovered that my rusted OEM exhaust was really only a rust STAINED exhaust.
Here I what I started with:
Attachment 35232

Then I poured full strength Muratic Acid on it, let it sit for a minute, sanded with 320 grit, wiped the rust off, and repeated the process until the rust was gone. Then I wet sanded everything with 600 grit and a garden hose.

Here is the result:

Attachment 35233

So, I saved $615.00 today with 1 cup of acid, sandpaper, shop towels, and 4 hours of my time.

:woot:

For any others wanting to do this with acid, BE CAREFUL!!!!, make sure you do it outside, have breathing protection, thick rubber gloves, have a plastic /rubber pan to catch the acid in so you can use it again, and baking soda so you can neutralize the acid when you are done for disposal.

Cheers,
Dana

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

Today I discovered that my rusted OEM exhaust was really only a rust STAINED exhaust.
Here I what I started with:
Attachment 35232

Then I poured full strength Muratic Acid on it, let it sit for a minute, sanded with 320 grit, wiped the rust off, and repeated the process until the rust was gone. Then I wet sanded everything with 600 grit and a garden hose.

Here is the result:

Attachment 35233

So, I saved $615.00 today with 1 cup of acid, sandpaper, shop towels, and 4 hours of my time.

:woot:

For any others wanting to do this with acid, BE CAREFUL!!!!, make sure you do it outside, have breathing protection, thick rubber gloves, have a plastic /rubber pan to catch the acid in so you can use it again, and baking soda so you can neutralize the acid when you are done for disposal.

Cheers,
Dana

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Wow. That's an amazing transformation!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MML

Wow. That's an amazing transformation!

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Thanks! The acid almost melted the rust off!

:headbang:

The trick now is keeping it that way.

Happy to report that DMC 3294 rolled out of the garage today under it's own power! First time the car has moved under it's own power since 1995... The good news is, the engine works well, and the transmission seems to work. Bad news is, the brakes don't work so well as I almost took out the front of my Jeep Cherokee with the rear end of the Delorean.
I know, I know... baby steps.

I put in a new starter relay Friday night. The original relay gave out on Thursday - I had been driving home, and had to stop at a parts store. Came back and and no starter - at all. Danny thought it might be power from the relay to the starter, or even a bad starter solenoid. I had a feeling it was the relay, but unfortunately the parts place, manned by people who have zero car knowledge (thanks AutoZone), didn't know how to find a 12volt, 30 amp relay. The Kragan's I called, while in the AutoZone lot, did however by asking one simple question, but they were about a mile away and I wasn't in the mood for a walk, plus the store I was at was in a not so great area. So I had to get towed home. Got a new relay at a Kragans the next day, and she fired right up when I put it in.
Now to replace all the relays, followed by an electronic ignition (I have a Chevy 350 small block in mine).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfloyd

Happy to report that DMC 3294 rolled out of the garage today under it's own power! First time the car has moved under it's own power since 1995... The good news is, the engine works well, and the transmission seems to work. Bad news is, the brakes don't work so well as I almost took out the front of my Jeep Cherokee with the rear end of the Delorean.
I know, I know... baby steps.

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Congrats Barry! That is definitely a milestone. I know how that feels to make small steps.

Cheers,
Dana

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

I put in a new starter relay Friday night. The original relay gave out on Thursday - I had been driving home, and had to stop at a parts store. Came back and and no starter - at all. Danny thought it might be power from the relay to the starter, or even a bad starter solenoid. I had a feeling it was the relay, but unfortunately the parts place, manned by people who have zero car knowledge (thanks AutoZone), didn't know how to find a 12volt, 30 amp relay. The Kragan's I called, while in the AutoZone lot, did however by asking one simple question, but they were about a mile away and I wasn't in the mood for a walk, plus the store I was at was in a not so great area. So I had to get towed home. Got a new relay at a Kragans the next day, and she fired right up when I put it in.
Now to replace all the relays, followed by an electronic ignition (I have a Chevy 350 small block in mine).

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FWIW: in your particular case you could have temporarily swapped in one of your non critical relays like the high beam. Then you could have driven to kragens or home for that matter.

My first night off from work in over a week, me and my 8 year old decided to get a little adventurous and daring with the DeLorean. "We'll just drive it around the block".... We made it 3/4's way around the block and the front wheels locked up. Now matter how much gas I gave it, it wasn't moving another inch. Neighbor across the street saw us and offered to help. I walked back to the house to get my truck and tow strap and he and my son stayed with the car. Slowly towed it back to the house and the front wheels locked up again. It felt like wrestling a pit bull on a leash... I was pulling, the car wasn't moving. Went and got my floor jack out of the garage and we jacked up the front end about an inch off the ground and I drove the car on the rear two wheels and the wheels of the floor jack the rest of the way up my driveway and into the garage.

With the front wheels up in the air, they will not spin at all. I'm thinking it's either brakes, wheel bearings, or all of the above. Pretty sure I'm getting ready to replace all of the calipers, master cylinder, rotors and wheel bearings.

http://i.imgur.com/pQw8Nux.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfloyd

With the front wheels up in the air, they will not spin at all. I'm thinking it's either brakes, wheel bearings, or all of the above. Pretty sure I'm getting ready to replace all of the calipers, master cylinder, rotors and wheel bearings.

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Both front wheels won't turn? That is odd. They turn independently, so it would be very strange if both bearings went at the exact same time. Sounds like the brakes aren't releasing to me.

Looking back at the skid marks on my driveway, it looks like the right front wheel was the culprit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bfloyd

Looking back at the skid marks on my driveway, it looks like the right front wheel was the culprit.

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still on the original brake lines? maybe just a collapsed line? if you open the bleeder valve, can you then spin the wheel freely (or at all)? if you can with the valve open, then the line may have just collapsed internally. if the wheel still wont budge, then seized caliper is the next likely culprit.

Did various tests/air bleeding on the car over the weekend to ensure I had finally sorted out my cooling system issues after the water pump install.

Since the car appeared to be running well at this point I decided to go through with my plans to drive up to the Hollywood Bowl for the BTTF in concert event last night.

It ran like a champ even in bumper to bumper traffic!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

FWIW: in your particular case you could have temporarily swapped in one of your non critical relays like the high beam. Then you could have driven to kragens or home for that matter.

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Yeah I know.. I thought so after I had it towed home and found out they're all the same kind of relay.

Live and learn.

Went to a cruise night about an hour away and all was well.

Seemed like something was not quite right with the throttle on the drive home, not all of it, but the first part for sure.

My theory was that when I was kinda climbing into the "back" to prop up the flux capacitor against the cargo net, my elbow leaned too much weight on the centre console and pinched the throttle cable a little bit. Until I realized it or it finally relaxed enough and wiggled itself some slack, it was getting caught and keeping the throttle at something other than what my foot was trying to do with it.

Is this even possible? Anyone ever had experience with a throttle cable getting pinched accidentally under the ashtray/armrest area in the middle?

It seemed to smooth itself out later on in the drive, but maybe I still need to go looking for some other cause...

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

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Thanks Dennis.

Any particular type of lubricating spray you recommend?

(boy, that line could get misread if you didn't know you were on a car forum...)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Thanks Dennis.

Any particular type of lubricating spray you recommend?

(boy, that line could get misread if you didn't know you were on a car forum...)

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Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha!

Ideally a spray on lithium. Wipe off excess grease. You only need it between the coils. For a temporary trial run just use some wd40 or similar. It will evaporate fairly quickly but at least you will know if it helps or not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Ideally a spray on lithium. Wipe off excess grease. You only need it between the coils. For a temporary trial run just use some wd40 or similar. It will evaporate fairly quickly but at least you will know if it helps or not.

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Also make sure the end of the top return spring isn't dragging on the slot on the pin that it rests on. If you don't have the recall kit snaprings on that post, the slot will often grab the end of the spring and cause it to bind rather than slide.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Seems highly improbable to pinch the steel coiled jacket. It might be coincidental that perhaps the inner cable is fraying internally. There is a lot of system friction in the throttle cable return springs. Concider spraying some lubrication on all the throttle return springs.


Dennis

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I had this problem many years ago. That large spring on the spool where the throttle cable links to was causing binding because the spring was dry. I pulled the spring and lubed it with some grease and it has been working fine since. I did also work some grease into the other spring on the throttle plate assembly. I don't run with the recall plate over the throttle spool so the grease seems to hold up with occasional rain water on it.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give the lube a try. The springs on my car could definitely be considered dry and what grease I had used previously might be needing a redo.

I'll double check those clip on washers you mentioned Dave. I remember talking about them with you one day as I hadn't realized what the heck they were for as part of the deice kit recall originally. I believe they are still in place, but I'll make sure.

I hadn't realized that inside that cable sheath it was metal supported Dennis. That does sound unlikely that I would have pinched down through it temporarily somehow.

Jump started a dead Citroen Xsara Picasso... that's the second jump start I GIVE with the Delorean... what a benevolent car!

:approve:

Here's a pic from the cruise night last night.

Attachment 35283

Quote:

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Originally Posted by novadmc

still on the original brake lines? maybe just a collapsed line? if you open the bleeder valve, can you then spin the wheel freely (or at all)? if you can with the valve open, then the line may have just collapsed internally. if the wheel still wont budge, then seized caliper is the next likely culprit.

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Check the black rubber brake HOSE (for that wheel) for proper fluid flow/restrictions...

Today I installed my refurbished exhaust and brackets and finished filling my coolant. My engine refresh is progressing. Completed is the water pump, coolant hoses, spark plugs, wires and distributor cap, clutch slave cylinder and stainless steel line, overflow tank, heat stove and air intake, radiator and fans, alternator, exhaust, and various fasteners, labels etc.

I only have the intake plenum, fuel system, and emissions to install next. Then I can restart it. :yesss:

Attachment 35311

Got it up on 4 jack stands today to start removing the brake calipers. I've decided to replace all of the calipers, pads, master cylinder, etc. I've seen where some of the vendors want the cores back on the calipers, and they must be the original Girlings. I know on the font I have the Girlings because the logo is clearly visible. What about the rear? Do these look like the originals? I couldn't see a logo on them...
http://i.imgur.com/xKVZFZa.jpg

Over the last 2 days, I installed the intake, fuel distributor/mixing unit, idle speed regulator, throttle tubes & bobbin, and most of the connections. All I have left to do on the engine refresh is the fuel lines and CPR. This is a phase of the restoration that I began in mid February, so I will be glad to see it through, and move on to something else.

Attachment 35325

Went grocery shopping. I have friends visiting from MN and they borrowed my daily driver to spend a few days in Yosemite while I have to work. This meant I had to park the DeLorean in a parking lot of shopping carts. Yes, it is as terrifying as it sounds. Because I'm overly paranoid, I hung my GoPro from my passenger visor to capture anything that may have happened while parked there. Kind of interesting to see the attention it gets when I'm not around. I have a flux capacitor on the parcel shelf which is what I assume everyone is taking close ups of.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQm05OLEBQU

Pretty funny video, thanks for sharing :)

Somewhere on this very thread, one of our Australian fellow D owners posted a video where he put a GoPro or equiv. on the roof of his D and then went for a lovely drive; all while "Feels Like Heaven" by Fiction Factory was playing. Don't know why, but I found that video beautifully inspirational. I enjoyed it a couple of times but the thread has since grown exponentially and I can't find it anymore.

Anyone know what I'm talking about?

This morning I finished the engine refresh by installing my frequency valve and fuel return line, the new upper exhaust bracket (to replace my cracked one), and the air filter assembly. Today, the battery is being charged. Tomorrow I'll connect the new alternator and attempt to start it for the first time since February. Wish me luck!

Attachment 35372

VERY nice. Good luck.

Yesterday I fitted the front brake callipers I had reconditioned because of sticking pistons. Also replaced the steering rack boots and replenished the oil. This brought me to the shocks and I found the left front was not in great condition. They are Girling Decarbon 700etc but they seem to get a bit of a bad wrap.

Any suggestions for a better set of shocks? The car has not been lowered.

Thank you

OZ DMC

Halfway to a temporary exhaust system.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...id=35379&stc=1

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

This morning I finished the engine refresh by installing my frequency valve and fuel return line, the new upper exhaust bracket (to replace my cracked one), and the air filter assembly. Today, the battery is being charged. Tomorrow I'll connect the new alternator and attempt to start it for the first time since February. Wish me luck!

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Well, I attempted to start the engine today, and it was a success!! I had to turn it over several times as the fuel lines needed to be filled, but once it got going it ran strong, smooth, and quiet.

Work done:
New water pump, alternator, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, coolant hoses, overflow tank and radiator, SS fuel lines, exhaust heat shield, engine seals, clutch slave cylinder and SS line, diagnostic plug, and numerous little bits
Re-plated fasteners and and most parts in clear and yellow zinc, and refurbished the cooling fans.
Valve adjustment
Cleaned and detailed everything, and repainted what needed it
It was a major undertaking, but patience, documentation, pictures, and ziplock bags helped me organize the project.
Before:

Attachment 35381

Most of the tear down (except the timing cover):

Attachment 35382

After (running engine today):

Attachment 35380

Thanks for all the questions that the DMCTalk community answered. It was very helpful.

Now the next thing is the touching up the fuel tank closing plate, replacing the fuel accumulator, cleaning the rear suspension and rebuilding the rear calipers.

Dana

When I rewired the side park/perimeter as an indicator, my ultimate goal was to make it BOTH a park (dim) and indicator (bright). I allowed for it in the wiring at the time, but it has taken me exactly three years to get back onto completing this work.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1437644198