David, have you turned of the lambda light yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Dennis
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David, have you turned of the lambda light yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
Dennis
Yes, I reset the lambda counter and replaced the grease in it. All set to go!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
👍Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
I should add that I also replaced my plugs, cap, rotor and wires not long ago. I still need to replace my O2 sensor, the original is baked in there. I'm planning to take it to a local shop to have them help remove it before I round the edges.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Yeah, the only success I've had removing the O2 sensor, was by using a box end wrench and smacking the end with a heavy hammer. I've never had any luck with the open side sockets.
Today I put on my recently acquired, used, re-keyed, and rehabbed locking gas cap. I put it on to show it off at a high school robotics club fundraising car show... and I won spectator's choice award. It's the first award I've ever won at a car show. It was a good day.
If your installing a new sensor, you can break the old one off the top with a hammer and then use a regular socket if you have room.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Congrats! Have any pictures from the show?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
That is a great idea, but what happens if I still can't get it off? What happens if I don't have a working O2 sensor? Will the car run too rich or lean for me to be able to get to a shop?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
With the sensor disconnected, your lambda ECU defaults to 50% duty cycle so you would run a little rich if it was properly adjusted before you disconnected it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
It's been a very busy and expensive 10 months... but DMC #3294 is officially back on the road. My cold starting issue was easily fixed with a 1/4 turn adjustment on the fuel / air mixture.
This is how it looked when we bought it.
http://i.imgur.com/SnEGnoC.jpg
Here's what we finished up with this afternoon.
http://i.imgur.com/9OhX2Eh.jpg
Kind of proud how the rear bumper turned out. Sanded it down, then applied 1 coat of SEM trim black, then went over that with a satin finish Duplicolor black bumper paint. The new stainless DPI bumper letters ended up being the icing on the cake.
http://i.imgur.com/fR24TyB.jpg
You know, somewhat embarrassingly, I don't. This is the 3rd time I've had 1121 out to show. I've meant to bring my DSLR all 3 times and have forgotten it each time. I could, of course, use my cell phone, but I'm so wrapped up showing the car I forget to do that, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
It really is true that the general public loves DeLoreans. Everyone stops, looks, talks, and takes pictures... so there's a LOT of talking.
In addition, for us, we encourage people who are REALLY interested to get in and have pictures taken. I know many owners will balk at that, but Colleen and I consider ourselves custodians of a well known and we'll loved piece of automotive history. We get excited by how excited and happy people are just seeing the car. It's even better for both them and us when they can get their pictures taken inside. We love it.
So... with the talking, educating, and helping people with pictures, it makes it difficult to just go and enjoy the show.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
However, if the first words out of there mouth is a BTTF wisecrack. I usually don't extend the offer. It kinda depends on the attitude of the individual after that if I make the offer or not.
I completely agree about the attitude. I don't automatically dismiss anyone who starts with BTTF, though. If all they're doing is cracking wise or being a-holes, definitely dismissed. If they have a real love of the movie or are just using it genuinely to break the ice I'm still good. It IS how much of the general public is introduced to the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
I do have the stealth FC in the car to throw back at them if I so choose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
Interestingly enough I don't get the coke remarks hardly at all anymore. Aging demographic I guess.
Met the previous owners who I bought my Delorean from. They were very happy how nice the car still looks and they know it's being well taken care of. They also gave me a stack of old Delorean World magazines. After that I went for a drive.
Tried starting the car for the first time since installing the LED dimmer relay. Everything seems to look and sound fine (fuel pump primes, dash lights up, etc), except there is no starter on the turn, just a relay click. Crossing my fingers that it is just a low battery, but now I'm scared I may have bumped something I shouldn't have back there. I've doubled checked the #9 relay connections they all look good.
I returned the relay wiring to stock again and am charging the battery. May need to start a thread on this if I get it charged and don't have any luck.
Use a torch to heat it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Sent from phone
Of coarse, if I had one at the time I would of used it. 😜Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
Found out my clutch is all going to shit. More money to throw at my cash cow D lol
Installed LEDs in the license plate lights (I hate the brackets in the bumper for those light housings)
And installed LEDs in the dome lights. Guess I'll need to be ordering a led compatible relay if I don't want to be turning the dome lights on and off manually.
Also have LEDs to go in the dash, and replace all but the batt light. I just need to find time to take out the binnacle.
You ever heard what they call a pool in your backyard? A hole in the ground you throw money into.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley88
And a boat? A hole in the water you throw money into.
I think the DeLorean is the hole in the garage we throw money into.
knocked a few small things out the other day
painted the frunk. and window cowling. both were faded/dirty and just made the front of the car look worn when the hood was up. now it looks just shy of factory fresh.
also replaced the windwhield wiper arms as they were faded/pitting
Attachment 36055 Attachment 36056 Attachment 36057
Also finally replaced the dome lights with LEDs only thing left to switch over to LEDs is the binnacle. (ignoring the glovebox light and headlights)
Attachment 36058
no LED compatible timer yet (I'll be contacting you eventually, bitsyncmaster!) so I just have to manually turn the lights on and off. not that big of an issue for me though.
Your paint job looks really good. What paint did you use??Quote:
Originally Posted by novadmc
As to your dome lighting not working...
If you just remove the existing "dimming" replaying (the white one), your interior lights will immediately go on when a door is opened and immediately go off when the door is closed. If all you are trying to accomplish is having the interior light on when you open your door (and go off when it is shut), this is a quick, easy and inexpensive solution. For me, I have selected this solution. I heard of another solution, but have not tried it. If you want dimming, but don't want to buy Dave's dimmer. Replace one of the lights with an LED and leave the other as an Incandescent. The incandescent should provide enough resistance in the circuit to allow the existing dimming relay to work. I would think only the incandescent would dim, while the LED would just be on/off, but again, I have no experience with this alternate solution. Even if it does work, the drain on your battery will increase because of the incandescent (can't say how much though)
Dennis
thanks! i used SEM trim black. first i removed the wipers, and cowl, then vacuumed everything, masked and taped off anything i didnt want to get paint on. then sanded lightly. next i wiped everything down with acetone. wiped the cowl down with isopropyl alcohol. hit some areas with some primer that would needed it then did several light to medium coats of trim black. in between coats id spray the cowl since i had that in my backyard to spray. and vice versa.Quote:
Originally Posted by durech
hardest part of the whole ordeal was just prepping and covering up everything. (and keeping the tape to keep the trunk light off. yeah its an LED but still... shoulda just pulled the bulb :) ).
Yea i may just pull the current dimmer relay. I do plan on eventually getting Dave's relay (as well as his RPM relay for my own piece of mind) but really, so long as the lights go out when the doors are shut, i dont care if its instant or delayed.
I had one incandescent bulb in one of the dome lights that was providing the 2nd solution you mentioned, but i wanted LED simply because i could.
the FRUNK?Quote:
Originally Posted by novadmc
man, that's funny. I'm gonna have to use that :)
VERY nice job!
I replaced the accelerator pedal cover and began stripping the interior. It was kinda satisfying, probably due to my car being on stands in "restoration idle" mode for the past 3 months.
I'm getting caught up on priorities and will soon be in "active restoration" mode!
I also opened a few parts shipments (from a few months ago) and organized things a bit....it felt like Christmas in August.
novadmc , Excellent job on the frunk! A+ Nice placement on the labels too! +Like
Thanks! now to hopefully not ruin it in the next few weeks since i now have to replace my clutch master cylinder. bled the system back in May and now Ive noticed some fluid dripping from the seals at the back of the cylinder down a the footwell.Quote:
Originally Posted by skill
After 2 months of ownership, we finally got her proper plate.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...0228e0c166.jpg
Very nice car! I like the plate choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan
Today I re-installed the fuel tank closing plate which needed touch ups on the inside due to the familiar brake master cylinder leak.
Attachment 36220
Now I can focus on the rear suspension and brakes.
replaced the clutch's master cylinder.
The hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder was old and brittle and weeping. I didn't have a proper EPDM hose on hand but did have some clear 3/8" I.D. PVC hose.
I figured if clear PVC's good enough for bleeding should be good for a interim hose. especially since it's low pressure. test drive seemed to be happy (no audible grinding of gears).
Now to see how it goes over the next few days to make sure i bled it all sufficiently.
Working on the rear suspension......
Attachment 36312
Do you plan on actually driving the car when your done or just put in a sealed vault? I can't get over how clean and flawless it looks.
Oh wait that rotor retaining screw is rusty! My kinda car now😜
Dennis
Thank you Dennis. :thankyou: Definitely! This car is my passion, and I'm somewhat of a perfectionist in my restoration. I'm taking my time, and hopefully doing it right. I haven't even driven it yet, besides a yard drive at DMCFL (where I bought it as a project), and driving it down the street when it was delivered two years ago..... I decided to do a thorough mechanical restoration on it before I attempt to drive it. By now, it's almost roadworthy (I don't have too much free time, so I'm slow). I plan to show it at Celebration, FL next year, and then drive and enjoy it afterwards. It was a one owner car that needed a full "rubber" restoration... and cleaning 32 years of Georgia mud off the underside.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
That rotor retaining screw is yet to be done. A 15 sec bath in Muriatic acid, followed by a baking soda bath, and then satin black and it will be good as new! :wrenchin: :smile:
Cheers,
Dana
Looks great, Dana!
Can't wait to see your progress @ Celebration this year!
I started removing my exhaust in preparation for the Manifold gasket adventure this weekend.
Attachment 36316Attachment 36317Attachment 36318Attachment 36319
Good times.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Was just at the hardware store and bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer (electronic unit) so I could use it for measuring temps on the DeLorean. It only cost $8.99 and can record the min and max temps. I wanted it to measure the temps in the relay compartment. I also can use it measure the AC vent temps which I now use a dial thermometer but it is hard to read when driving the car.
This unit is made by Taylor and outside temp range of -40 to 158 deg. F
Fitted the second front lower control with its new polybushes and ball-joints.....
Looking forward to testing the improvement. :mechbull: