Thanks, the Momo has ended up being one of the best upgrades I've made so far! It looks great and combined with the new suspension, almost makes it seem like I'm driving a different car. :smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
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Thanks, the Momo has ended up being one of the best upgrades I've made so far! It looks great and combined with the new suspension, almost makes it seem like I'm driving a different car. :smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
What is the cost of the complete steering wheel package?? Wheel, adapter & logo plateQuote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
DMCNW packaged the whole thing to me for around $295 I believe. That included the knock-off Momo wheel, adapter, and logo plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by durech
Knocked out a few items last night that had ben bothering me:
- Recharged AC - nice having cold air again!
- Drivers door adjustment, door was sticking on front pin
- And, the surround around both of my drop windows were getting pretty worn and nasty:
Attachment 36788
So I taped up both sides and re-painted the surround with Rustoleum satin finish black:
Attachment 36789
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And here is the final with all tape removed:
Attachment 36791
Awesome paint job!Quote:
Originally Posted by novadmc
I got Dave's dimmer module for my LEDs and it works like a charm. I also added foot-well lighting into the LED circuit and it dims them as well. Well built product and worth having if you want to give the interior lighting the old/modern feel.
4846 got:
The biggest project was the brakes. Getting the original hoses out of the hex holder brackets was a nightmare. Once they were out we replaced all 4 corners with stainless braided lines and rebuilt the calipers with stainless steel pistons. One piston was really stuck fast. Some garage engineering found a way to get it out! Way ground a small notch on both sides, slide a large washer into the notches, and used a ball joint fork to turn the washer, thus turning the piston. We also replaced the brake master cylinder.
While we were under the car we inspected the complete frame. It looks amazingly clean...except one spot. The standard brake master leak had recently started so some of the epoxy had bubbled. We scraped the tank plate all down and ground off what we could then POR15 and painted every tiny spot on the frame we could find. Ace Hardware Medium Gray 17076 was a pretty spot on match for color. While were at it I hit some suspension parts with some black rust reformer to keep that under control as well. POR15 was like water and went on really thin so I did a couple coats. Wear gloves because its drippy! One tip Marty gave me on the POR15: don't open the top just poke a small hole in it and cover it with a small bit of duct tape then saran wrap. That will keep it usable for a looooong time.
We put some 90 weight gear oil in the steering rack and smoothed out the steering. Nice touch Marty!
We put in new pigtails for the front marker lights. One of them was pretty destroyed and needed replacement so we did both. I already had LEDs all the way around that Ian Y. and I did earlier.
Marty showed me how to rebuild a mode switch and the magical way a Zen master can reach into the dash and feel his way through the removal and replacement. That was a joyful task but it turns so smoothly now. That turning smoothness came from Marty's attention to detail. He hand polished the aluminum face inside the mode switch itself. That, my friends, is passion!
We installed the stainless steel three screw strips on both sides that hold the two aluminum inspection/protection plates. That one was quick and easy.
Thanks again Marty!
thanks! hopefully the paint holds up!Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Today i replaced the driver's side axle flange and seal with parts from PJGrady.
hopefully no more transmission leaks now that this is done!
Attachment 36796 Attachment 36797 Attachment 36798
Today was a loooong day but I got the business end of the car completed:
Here are the parts that I started the morning with (DMC EU adjustable shocks, lower links converted by Marty Maier, lowering springs, re-waxed rubber insulator, and re-painted spring cups):
Attachment 36811
Here are the end results. I also installed the previously completed brake rotor and calipers:
Attachment 36814
Attachment 36815
Yesterday, I installed the front shocks as well. Up next is bleeding the brakes.... :wrenchin:
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:Good job :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
After 20 years of dreaming, 2 to 3 years scouring through ads, 9 local cars checked out, and 6 test drives, I finally purchased my own DeLorean! :yesss:
First off I think I owe the forum some pics:
Attachment 36822Attachment 36823
Today I took care of a couple things, and then took it out for the first drive around town. I love driving it, and plan on doing it a lot! That's why I bought it.
First order of business was taking care of fuse #7 (fuel pump, etc):
Attachment 36832
The fuse can't even be pulled out, it's baked in. I cut the wires under the fuse and soldered in a fuse holder. Let the car run for a while to see if it would get hot, and the new fuse stayed cool. I forgot to take a pic afterwards, but I used something like this: http://www.vteworld.com/content/elec...axi_holder.gif
Pulled out each and every fuse (except #7 - see above) and sandpapered them.
Correct me if I'm wrong but fuses #4 and #18 should be 20amp. Any reason why I should leave these at 10?
Couple more pics of my relay/fuse compartment:
Attachment 36820Attachment 36821
Please let me know if anything needs to be addressed.
Explored my front compartment area, mostly to see what I have underneath there, and give it a basic cleaning/wipe down.
Attachment 36824
Fuel pump cover looks like it isn't fully seated. But I believe I've read that this is a common thing? Is this something I need to take care of or ok to leave as-is?
Attachment 36825
Things looked ok in these areas (I think?), just very dirty.
Attachment 36826Attachment 36831Attachment 36827Attachment 36828Attachment 36829
I cleaned up this connection. Guessing it's a ground for the cooling fans?
Attachment 36830
I plan on going through and cleaning all the main ground locations in the near future. Already order a new set of tires but haven't received them yet. Vacuumed the interior and luggage compartment. Also went to re-fuel (mostly to see if my fuel gauge works). It was very slow to respond, but it eventually went up to Full in a few minutes so it's accurate. Speedo and oil pressure gauges have a bounce going on, but the rest of the gauges look good. Oh yeah, I also sandpapered the connections at the ballast resistor. Checked the usual stuff, oil / brake / clutch levels, air filter, etc. I can't seem to get the bottom of the coil cover back on (the black cover in the front right corner of the engine compartment).
Question before I forget: When I turn the key on (not start), I noticed only the battery and brake lights come on, on the right side. The Lambda, Oil, and Fuel lights do not. Is this normal or do I need to check bulbs?
Thanks!!!
Greg
Congrats Greg! Looks really nice!
The previous owner looked to be someone who took care of the car. I can see the end of a back-up trunk release cable in one of your pics. Have a look in under the driver footwell and see what the other end looks like.
You've got some 'Zilla products there in the fuse relay area. I'm not familiar with them, so others can chime in on whether any of those required different fuses. Looks like you've at least got the Fanzilla one and one for the door locks too.
The lights you see when turning the key are almost ok. You won't see the Lambda light in a test, not unless it already hit 30,000 miles and is trying to come on. Likewise with the low fuel light. It will only come on when the fuel tank is low. You should definitely see the battery light come on and it needs to be to ensure the charging system is working properly. The brake light will only come on if you have the parking brake lever pulled up, or if there is a low level of fluid in the reservoir. There is a test button on top of the brake fluid reservoir you can use, but my experience with this circuit is that between the parking brake lever switch and the wiring, it can sometimes have a mind of its own. You should see the oil pressure light come on though when only in accessories with the key. Think of it as the car being in normal operating condition from a sensor and instrument point of view, but the engine isn't on, thus no oil pressure.
Cleaning grounds is a good idea. The electrical gauges bouncing can point to a dirty ground. The speedo bouncing would be something else non-electrical, but not unusual. Maybe the dust cap slipping, maybe an angle drive problem. You can put a small amount of lube (gear oil) in the angle drive as part of regular maintenance and see if that helps.
I would have a closer look at the fuel pump and cover. That rubber cover isn't really any kind of pressure seal and that metallic clamping ring you see part of is for the pump and boot one layer underneath. You can safely fold up a corner of that rubber cover and see what is going on. If the pump and boot aren't all the way into the tank and there is a slight opening for air or fuel, you will find out when filling the tank as it can end up tricking the shut-off mechanism at the gas pump when it doesn't sense the back pressure.
That bottom corner of the coil cover might never firmly fit into any groove or clip. They didn't fit terribly well, not on the bottom side anyway. See if you can snug it into the grooves on the sides and around the wiring and then the clip somewhat keeps the top of it in place.
Thanks! :smile:Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuttleman
Congrats on the car Greg! It looks solid! :thumbup2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
Congratulation on your purchase Greg :thumbup2:
What VIN did you purchased?
Good stuff, Jonathan! Thanks for your help!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Thanks, Dana!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Thanks, Domi! I will post the VIN here soon, I have trouble memorizing it still (only had the car for about a week). I can tell you it's a Nov 81 build, if that helps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
Decided I would keep my dashmat, 'cause I kinda like the way it looks.
I had never even tried it out until recently when someone was asking about where they could get one. I had it included in the car going back to when I got the car in 2007. My dash is fine, no major cracks or anything, so I never bothered with it. When I put it on just to size it up and check condition, I decided to leave it there.
Something to change things up a bit and give contrast to the black interior. And for free too. Anyone with a better half that knows what it is like to get convinced the living room needs to be painted or we need new couches for no good reason can probably relate. This was much simpler.
Attachment 36842
after my post axle work shakedown cruise and clutch rebleed (installed a speed bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder so its now a 1-man bleed job), i started to button everything in the frunk back up. but most of the M5 screws were all stripped to hell. went to home depot and bought out the M5x.08/16mm bolts they had in stock and replaced them all. while black is the "stock" look, i like the accent the new screws provide:
Attachment 36860 Attachment 36861
I also replaced the bubbling lower engine cover stickers with new ones:
Attachment 36859
I just love little, simple, quick things to freshen up the car a bit more.
This past Sunday, Volker (vps3922) and I went on our first (and probably last!) cruise of the year. Yup. Between my daughter arriving this august, his new Job and two other local owners moving it was a very quiet year for DeLoreans in BC.
In other news - it's never too early to start the obsession:
Attachment 36863
Congratulations, Dave!Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
I was able to drive it!!! :woot:
No fluid leaks and everything mechanical worked. :yesss:
It was a good day.
Congrats👍🏻Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Took it to Pep Boys to get new tires installed - the tires on there were 13 years old!
Attachment 36910
The brand new tires I went with BF Goodrich all around.
G-force Super Sport - 196/60/14 (fronts)
Radial T/A - 235/60/15 (rears)
This was the basically the only option for me that I could find, that met my 4 main criteria:
- Stock sizes
- Matching brand
- Made in USA
- Reasonably priced
Attachment 36911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregadeth
I really wish BFG would bring back the radial TA in a 195. Love those tires. BFG are the best.
Yup, I think that would have been the perfect setup. I love the design of the tread, makes the rears look especially beefy (kinda like the original NCTs). And the fact that you can install em both ways, one way for black sidewall, and the other way for raised white lettering. But using the Super Sports for the front is the best alternative. Same brand, and the tread design isn't too different from the Radial T/As.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Installed bitsyncmaster's solid state RPM relay and tested it out today. simply put, I love it and wish i bought it sooner. my stock RPM replay never would auto-prime the fuel pump when the key was turned to ACC.
with the stock RPM relay, cold starts would take ~2 sec to start. hot stars almost always took 2 cranks to fire up the car.
With the new relay and the pump priming before turning over, both cold and hot starts fire up almost immediately. 1sec of crank at most and thats with the currently having the relay's "hot start fix" OFF).
Changed oil and filter.
Replaced oil sender and seal (the warning light one).
Went to British Car Day in Oakville with a dozen other DeLoreans and about a thousand other UK cars.
Attachment 36917Attachment 36918Attachment 36919Attachment 36920
Fixed wipers.
Realized on the weekend that my wipers weren't working. No speeds and no wiper fluid. Figured it got unplugged and that's indeed what happened. I had gone under the binnacle to replace a bulb the other day and the connector must have backed itself out of the receptacle on the bracket up in the pedal assembly when I was working in there.
I don't mention it because it was some sort of clever discovery, instead only to help any potential owners with the same problem. The assistance being that the signal/wiper stalk has two connectors and they separate the stuff on the wiper side from the stuff on the signals side. Just an easy way to narrow down what happened if you notice only one side of your stalks is working or not working.
Here's an older picture when I had an old (bent) and new assembly together to show the connectors.
Cheers.
Attachment 36960
I drove the car for 3 hours running the AC all the way home. Outside temp was about 85 deg. F and max relay box temp hit 94.8 deg. F. This was cooler than I expected but I do have all solid state relays. I'm guessing the worst relay box temp would be after your car has been sitting in the sun closed up. I drilled a small hole in the plywood relay box cover about in the center to RTV my temp sensor there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Wow, that's a lot of cars !!! Makes our local British show seem minuscule.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I guess it's a hold-over from being part of the commonwealth all those years
I think they bill the show as the largest in North America and I think they might be right!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangermouse
I can only tell you what I see from growing up in little towns or living in bigger cities later in life, but most/many communities have a lot of people with English, Scottish or Irish backgrounds. And based on the accents, quite often were born overseas and came to Canada during their lifetimes (whereas their kids often don't have the accents because of growing up here). Those kind of folks are often in that retirement age and ripe for owning old cars. Perfect storm so to speak to see the volumes we do at these shows here. A nice combination for them as maybe they get the chance to be around so many like minded people that share something beyond just the cars. This show has vendors set-up with car stuff, yes, but also vendors with food from "back home," UK videos and DVDs, books and other things. They had a few WWII D-Day vehicles there fully decked out which I thought were really terrific.
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Replaced a marker light socket and put the stainless steel coolant bottle in
Finally put the piece of side moulding that fell off driver door back on.
Now that it's mobile, I'm focusing in the appearance. First thing is having the rear fascia painted.... :wrenchin:
Attachment 36991
1. Replaced both mirrors with Tom@delorana convex mirrors.
2. Readjusted brake light switch to activate on a light press of the pedal. Before, the pedal had to be pressed hard down before lights would activate. Found out why...the 2nd nut was not on the switch shaft.
front blinkers got LED bulbs (1157) installed @ lunch.
just have the binnacle lights left to convert to LED, but I've been lazy to tackle removing that.
My 205 ta's fit great and look great NO problems.....and you get your raised whites!!! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Pictures or lies!Quote:
Originally Posted by cpistocco
Spent the evening last night in the garage removing the Automatic Transmission Shift Computer / Governor thing... I'm sending off the whole unit out to be repaired / replaced, so I ended up removing the whole thing from the car.
Drained the transmission fluid and dropped the pan. Pulled the electrical connection from the solenoid connector out and got it free. Removed the switch connector and finally removed the governor circuit box itself out of the side of the transmission. Using the "How to:" guide posted here on the forums, I then proceeded to remove the electrical connector box from the engine bay and push it down below the car. Easier said than done. "Find a gap between the firewall and engine bay" says the instructions.. I tried for 2 hours last night to get that connector box down through any resemblance of a gap between the engine and firewall. Vacuum hoses, wiring harness, the main fuel line from the filter to the distributor, and some big-ass square plug with a cap on it all seem to be in the way. I tried from the top. I tried from the bottom. At 15 minutes after 2 a.m., I called it quits and went inside. I'm so close to getting this done, but I just can't see a way of getting it out without disconnecting the main fuel line. I really don't want to do that since I don't have a single leak in the fuel system anywhere on the car, and really don't want to create one.
Anybody got any advise on this from previous experience?