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Hi Dennis,Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
I've been working on it for almost 2 years. I've been taking my time, trying to restore it right, and enjoying the journey. My sequence has been: mechanical, exterior, and interior/electrical. So, the interior is next. I only have a few things to do there.
Yes, I have a good plater nearby which is convenient.
Cheers.
:) Thanks! Don't feel bad at all. I think all efforts that help repair and preserve these beautiful cars is great. :thumbup2:Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
Haha I said that because a lot of my bolts have rusted pretty bad in there. I have to cope with the fact that I dont have a garage and cant really do work that keeps the car apart more than a couple hours at a time as a result.
Good tip, Dana. I'll definitely be putting this into practice.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Does this also do a good job of cleaning up any corrosion on the pins in the connectors or is there a different approach you take to making sure you've got the pins clean?
-Kevin
This is great question, I think we've all seen those demonstrations where they submerge silver, copper bottom pans and pennies in a chemical solution that magically removes the oxidized surface.Quote:
Originally Posted by axh174
I wonder how well submerging connectors in those solutions would work to remove the oxide layer on the brass terminals. No doubt you would need to clean any grease or oils first.
Dennis
Tarn-x works pretty good on the brass terminals. That is how I cleaned the connectors on my car. Just dip the whole connector in a jar of Tarn-x for about 60 seconds, shaking the connector around. Then dip the connector in a solvent and blow dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Hi Kevin,Quote:
Originally Posted by axh174
For the pins, if they are not too bad, I use 600 grit sandpaper and WD-40 to wet sand them. Not too much because often times they are plated.
Yes indeed. Try dipping a corroded penny in Tabasco sauce for 15 minutes. I learned this from helping my daughter with a grade 5 science experiment. I was amazed. :wow:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Somehow I don't think you would dip one of your harness connectors in Tabasco sauce. [emoji6]
Dennis
Haha. You would be correct. But I learned why I need a Tums after anything with Tabasco sauce. :flamed:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Speaking of the topic, here's oxalic acid in action today on the bottom of my quarter panel...
Rusty captive spire nuts..
Attachment 37856
Rust stains left behind...
Attachment 37857
After wet sanding with the acid....
Attachment 37858
:wow:
Because I had one quarter panel off, today I took the other one off and decided to paint the pontoons. Also, I had to remove/replace the rusty captive spire nuts on the bottom of the panel.
General cleaning of 34 years of Georgia mud and some pine needles. I also wet sanded the black area with 1000 grit sandpaper...
Attachment 37978
Masked the area, and covered the rest of the car with plastic...
Attachment 37979
Pontoons painted with 3 coats of SEM trim Black....
Attachment 37980
All finished and masking removed...
Attachment 37981
Tomorrow I'll paint the engine cover.
Did you find any interesting Cave Paintings?
With help, I changed out my rear calipers and brake pads. First time I did brakes on a car. I also managed to break the nut loose for the angle drive and noticed that I didn't even have my new one with me.
Hi Robert,Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCVegas
Well, there was some markings in black marker on the inside of the quarter panels, and a code scratched into the lower pontoon. I'll take a picture of them before I put the panels on permanently.
Good job! I found that the rear calipers were a little bit challenging due to the parking brake.Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_maxime
Today, I painted the engine cover. The cleaning and masking took most of the time.
I masked the underside to protect my new labels from overspray...
Attachment 38012
General cleaning. The grates were dirty but the black oxide finish was in great shape. Because the top side of the cover was textured, I didn't sand it. However, you can see the fading of the paint in horizontal lines matching the louvers above it.
Attachment 38013
Top masked...
Attachment 38014
Painted with 3 coats of SEM Trim Black paint....
Attachment 38015
After using this paint twice, I like how it flashes and dries evenly, and the nozzle on the can is great. Well worth the few extra bucks per rattle can.
Very good job :thumbup:
Put some fresh gas in the tank to mix with the old gas. There is a ring of varnish about an inch from the bottom of the tank because I drained the tank incorrectly. Now I am trying to dissolve the varnish "the easy way."
Today was a long day of installing my front end.
Started with all the parts...
Attachment 38188
The fascias, louver, and front spoiler were professionally painted with the correct early VIN dark gray, in oil based paint, and SEM Trim Black. I also repainted my rock screen with satin black. I selected all stainless steel fasteners on the fascias, spoiler, and rock screen as they bear the brunt of the rain etc.
New grille retainers fastened with all aluminum 1/8" rivets...
Attachment 38189
After install...
Attachment 38190
Attachment 38191
Attachment 38192
Attachment 38193
Attachment 38194
I'll install the grille tomorrow....
Very good job :aniclap:
Thanks Domi! It's a labor of love!Quote:
Originally Posted by Domi
drove it.
ditto. it was such a nice day today here (sunny and in the mid 60s) mine was just begging for a drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by 88KPH
"The easy way" is very risky Farrar as whatever varnish dissolves will reappear elsewhere when the car sits for any length of time unless you're lucky enough to completely burn it off. If it's too late and you've driven the car you may damage some very expensive components. At least drive the car until the engine light comes on and then fill it again and run another whole tank down till the light comes on again and repeat another time. Do not let the car sit long until this is done or you may be in for an unpleasant and very expensive surprise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Rob
What color code did you use?Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Howdy folks. I was around a bit on the old forums. Just getting re-motivated to do some honest winter maintenance on my car. Owner for about 7 years now and driven sporadically every summer.
Took a long time but I made my way through the "what have you done" thread.
My wheels are off the ground now and for likely the first time in decades I can see what colour the frame is!http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11...b345ebad04.jpg
Pulled the steering rack and it is in good shape, just no oil left. So, that's what gave the front left side that particular shade of dirt.
Lots of frame cleaning and touch up to do while we hibernate up here.
Great reading all your adventures on here!
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Hi there,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shuttleman
I got the paint code from DMCH. Just give them a call and they can determine the code for your VIN range. I guess that it is also a matter of what paint solvents (oil or water based) are permissible in your area, or that your paint shop uses, as the code is different for each.
Cheers,
Dana
Hi there. Welcome back!Quote:
Originally Posted by D-guy
if you have all of the front end removed, from the looks of that pic you should replace those tie rod ends. I just did mine, feels so much nicer drivingQuote:
Originally Posted by D-guy
Disassembled the steering rack.
You bet! I have boots and new tie rod ends that have been on the shelf for many moons.Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley88
Unfortunately, I dropped my fuel tank plate and discovered extensive rust. Must have been an old leak that was never cleaned. I am worried that this is very very bad, and beyond just paint repair. I'll get things cleaned up as best as I can and check back with you guys hopefully this week.
Bummer.
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-Disassembled the front brake calipers.
-Nudged the y-pipe bolts a bit, I'm continuing to soak with ATF/Acetone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC-81
Ok thanks, keep on the good work!
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...c0fb2680d8.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...2ed15efa71.jpg
After an epic battle with the fuel tank it is finally out. Rust clean up and sealing next.
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Welcome back and keep up the good work
I began having the windows tinted and I'm timing this with having the car apart. Today, I took the quarter panels in to a tint place so they don't have to deal with the awkward angle with them on the car and I can avoid any chance of them scratching my new engine cover/pontoon paint.
This tint film is made by 3M and contains ceramic which was recommended on another thread as having very good heat barrier (Not that it matters much on the quarter panels).
Before:
Attachment 38356
After:
Attachment 38357
I'll have the doors done when I take off the interior panels to replace the window motors.
Dent removal:
This was the restoration job that I stressed over the most.
Can you see where the dime sized dent was? ( about 2 inches below the intake grill)
Attachment 38358
Neither can I! I hired a paintless dent removal company and got a tech with 20 years experience. I reiterated twice that SS is softer than sheet metal steel, and crossed my fingers. It turned out great! Phew! He even repaired one that I couldn't see for free. Best 50 bucks I ever spent.
Had my alternator rebuilt, I had no charge light and it was barely giving 12 volts. Turned out to be a blown diode. Now everything works as it should.
Rolled over the odometer for the second time.
Attachment 38365
Congrats
Made a tool out of the rear bearing outer race. Takes 10 minutes and works great.
Attachment 38367Attachment 38368Attachment 38369Attachment 38370