Hi. Thanks ! As for the LEDs, I just installed them so I can't comment on longevity, but I really like them. The kit seemed reasonably priced as well.
Printable View
Installed the DMOCO stainless shifter emblem. I also celebrated one year of being a DeLorean owner!
Attachment 38711
I've heard they are brighter, but only inline with the bulb/led. As LED's are much more directional you end up with brighter spots rather than brighter/larger light area. If that makes sense. Any pics to compare?
I know what you mean, but no, these lights don't have that problem. Here's a picture with them all on, straight on.
Attachment 38718
I try to keep my car as original as possible, but after installing LEDs, I would never go back to incandescent bulbs. There are too many advantages for the LEDs.
Pulled out my registration to send with an application to insure it with Grundy.
Seriously, way better rates than American Collector or Hagerty with the same coverage.
Just got a quote with Grundy. The same coverage through Grundy went from $250 to $163 compared to Heacock Classic. I know who I'll be switching to. Thanks for the tip!
Lining up spark plug wires for replacement.
Can someone confirm the recommended cylinder number order for plug wires in terms of length (shortest to longest) is:
4, 1, 2, 5, 6, 3
?
(This is the order the originals were in my car, from shortest to longest).
Thx.
Is this what you are looking for?
Attachment 38779
That definitely helps, Domi, thanks!
I think the plug wires (and fuel hoses for that matter) are not so generous in their lengths to give much extra slack if you don't route them properly. This diagram will certainly help me with that. There is a similar pattern atop the fuel distributor it seems as well to get the CPR lines from the RH side of the distributor back over to the LH side where the CPR is located.
I'd still like to know whether the lengths I had put in order make sense. Some of the wires are considerably shorter than others (#4 compared to #6 for example) but some of them are not very different (#2 and #5 for example).
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Hey, thanks Rob. That makes sense. I'll lay them out before putting them in permanently and see how they fit. Could be a better way to route them for all I know if I look at it in terms of what I know I don't want getting pulled on.
Here's another odd ball question:
With the intake off you sure do get some views of the engine and trans you wouldn't normally when all that stuff is blocking the line of sight. I was peering down beyond the front of the engine to where the trans starts, initially looking at where the other end of the throttle cable was hanging (the end that goes to the governor).
A little to the left, on what would be the driver's side/half of the engine and trans, I can see the vacuum hose that runs down to the vacuum modulator. This is an auto trans unique item. The hose is here: http://store.delorean.com/p-8936-vacuum-hose.aspx
My hose isn't a hose per se, because it's metal of some kind, firm anyway, not rubber. Don't know if that is what it was intended to be as it got replaced the first year I had the car when someone else was doing much of the work on it.
That aside, what I saw when I was looking down in there was a little plastic clip, not unlike the one that holds the lower speedo cable to the bracket. This one is meant to hold that hose in place I'd imagine. I don't see it on any of the diagrams though. You happen to know where it is? I couldn't get the hose/tube pushed back onto it as it is a little mushed, so I was hoping to see what it is supposed to look like when new and figure out if mine needs to get replaced or mushed back into the proper shape.
Thx.
Today was all about the lights.
Switched out the original headlights and replaced them with LED ones. The old ones were very dim. I didn't like driving at night the lights aren't much brighter than a regular car lights but they are pure white and the DeLorean is so low I doubt I'll blind anybody.
I also upgraded my brake lights to LED. The comparison shot has LED on the left and Incandescent on the right. There were long dead spiders and mosquitos inside the tail lamps and grease behind the headlights. The grease confused me a little but ok. Next I dealt with the interior dome light, the front one never turned on so I switched it with LED, but it didn't turn on. I checked the original bulb and notice that it didn't look burnt out so I simply swapped the entire lamp with the one above the shelf and called it good. Now I have a light in front so I can find the ignition and I'll just deal with the not functioning one much later.
All of this was so easy. Except for the headlights. Why. Why would they design them like this?? Took forever. The taillight was so easy that it was misleading and the plug-and-play LED bulbs made me think the front would be easy too.
All in all, a good day. Now I can see at night, which I recommended.
Changed out my flasher relay then blinker lights to leds yesterday. I changed the license plate bulbs to LEDs today. I hate how the whatever they screw into isn't glued in. Complete hassle to put them back in.
It's really hard to take photos of LEDs. Todays "auto" cameras just do not do well with bright LEDs.
Real "Ruby Red" LEDs are hard to come by when buying the LED chips themselves. But most replacement car bulbs did have the correct red color.
I'm really careful over buying things these days because of china forgeries are just crap. Buy from reputable suppliers.
I thought the same thing when I installed HIDs 10 years ago. But I have had people comment that the left light was blinding them. When I look at the light pattern on the wall, the left light is slightly higher than the right. So I'd have to say alignment it important.
Can you post some lighting shots Hi/Lo on a road and on a garage door so we can get an idea of the performance and light pattern?
I've recently switched to LED in my Daily driver. A significant improvement but I need to tweak the alignments. I just went on long road trip for the holidays and I've been getting flashed quite often so I know I need to address that.
Dennis
Not trying to comment on whether they should or shouldn't be legal or illegal, but what actually is the law on headlights?
Whether it's LEDs, or the "white light" look mentioned, aftermarket or even factory on some vehicles (Dodge and Jeep I notice now have a brighter "normal" bulb).
Is there an actual amount of brightness/blindingness that is the maximum and something over that gets you ticketed? Or is it also like the way getting tinted windows in most States or Provinces gets enforced and that there is an actual law saying what is too much, but rarely gets enforced unless there was some other reason you got yourself pulled over?
Just curious as I've not only gotten flashed more than I used to since getting a newer DD, but I also see so many cars coming from the opposite direction and assume they have they brights on too. So either my own eyes are getting worse or more sensitive to this change or the lights people have in their cars are indeed changing.
It seems like an arms race with headlights. I find a massive amount of them blinding now especially suvs and trucks. Even in my accord now, the massive amount of suvs and trucks on the road that are higher than my car means I get blinded a lot.
Yes! I think the same thing. Anyone living in an area dominated by trucks or SUVs (Texas, Midwestern Ontario, Alberta, etc.) gets the short end of the stick driving a "car" when your line of sight is looking directly into their headlights.
And to make matters worse, when you get even lower while driving the DeLorean, now you're in the cross hairs of headlights on all those other cars.
And that's not even counting all the people that don't understand when to use fog lights! Blinding indeed!
Remember those really bright headlights in the DCS parking lot? I'm pretty sure those were low-beams....wow.
That has nothing to do with your car; it's because the women are able to recognize the immense amount of swagger behind your wheel! :thumbup:
Last night I removed the water pump, gives nicer access to the VOD for cleaning & viewing.
I also removed the rear brake rotors; I needed to borrow an impact screwdriver to get that screw out, worked really well. Is that screw necessary, or was it just for the assembly line? I'll be sure to coat it before replacing, and not over-tighten it.
Jonathan,
The HID kit I installed back then was developed and sold by Sylvania and was DOT approved. Most of eBay kits are NOT DOT approved and typically say "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" which puts the liability on the end user.
In my case I just need to tweak the LH outer housing down slightly and I'll be good.
I know what your saying about being blinded by some of the NEW pickups and SUVs. I've been blinded from behind with curtain tall pickups.
Dennis
In my daily driver I adjusted my headlights to aim down after I tested to see if I would be blinded if I was behind me. It was bright so I pointed them down more. On the DeLorean they don't seem to be a problem during the same test, but I still need to adjust the left side, which may have been pointing up to begin with.
But on the topic of what I've done to my car today: Pushed it home. I was maybe 125-200 feet from home (I'm bad at judging distance) so it wasn't that bad. My alternator/coolant belt ripped to shreds and I've had this experience before on my old car so I recognized the noise almost immediately. The DeLorean ran about two miles before the coolant safety valve opened and I pulled the brakes and heard boiling behind me. The repair should be easy and it stopped on my street so... I'm good.
I've had all day to try and think of some reply to that and I got nothing, lol.
That liability on the customer really is what it is, isn't it? Crap approach if you ask me. The whole thing just reeks of that "don't tell me what I can and can't do" mentality yet blatantly ignores whether you're negatively affecting someone else with your choices. Mr. Spock wouldn't be impressed, I know that.
Trying to sort out "too bright" lights one by one isn't going to work I'd imagine. I'd say we might need new laws to cover it, but more accurately, we might just need the same laws we have but ACTUALLY ENFORCE THEM, lol.
Points added for recognizing that belt is also your "coolant" belt.
Points deducted for not stopping the car right away while your coolant pump was not pumping and waiting until the steam started to pour out.
We'll see how your plus/minus is once you fire it back up and find out if you got any overheating damage to the engine. I hope you didn't.
I'm going to have to give back my points for the coolant belt knowledge. I did not know at the time that it also operated the coolant. That came after I pushed it home, let it cool, and opened the covers. I had an alternator belt disintegrate on me before, but it was only for the alternator. That car (Pontiac) gave me nearly 20 miles before I parked it at the family's mechanic and shut it off on my time. I figured I had a similar range for the DeLorean which failed two miles or so from home.
But I did shut off the fan, turned off the accent lights, shut off the radio (and ejected the tape--wasn't sure if that mattered), and dimmed the console in preparation if this counts for points.
Today I replaced the steering column bushing as well as the steering shaft and U joints from DMC Texas. The car drives like a dream!
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I pulled the steering column and used the bolt and washer and nut method recommended by DMC to install the bushing. Took about 2 hours but I had another person helping which you'll definitely need. The only reason I removed the whole column from the car is because when I pushed the inside of the column up into the outside the gain access to the hole I couldn't grab it enough to pull it back out. But it's only 2 bolts and 3 plugs to remove the whole thing so it's not that bad.
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Today I did some sealing on my door, hopefully fixing the leak and I installed some color changing underglow LEDs.
Attachment 38912
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I took my wife and 2 young daughters (separately of course) for a drive today. After almost 2 years on jack stands, it's great to be able to finally drive it. Great times! :thumbup2:
Attachment 38920
Happy New Year!
Removed my radiator, how do I get the lower support brackets off? I feel a big slotted screw-head "in there."
10 mm IIRC at the frame and 7mm IIRC nut and bold thru the rad frame at the rad