What have you done to your DeLorean today?

Thanks Dennis, Dave, and Dana (the 3 Ds :) )
So it sounds like I have to clear up some of that epoxy stuff on the outer side, as well as use a socket in place of some of the washers so that the bushing can slip into it when pressed into place. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll continue tackling this on saturday.

Today I got my new window motor almost installed on the drivers side. I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. :swear1: In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:

This time, I didn't even take the H shaped handle bracket out as I tried unsuccessfully to insert the unit though that opening on the passenger side. I took the motor apart, glued the spacers to the motor, put the motor in the door thorough the hole that it clamps to, and then fished the bracket ( without the z tabs) down through the top middle hole. Then I assembled the unit in the door, using blue lock tight on the 3 motor screws.

All in all, it was a successful day. I'll secure it and connect it next. Here's a pic of the old and new motors:
Attachment 39462

Both old motors were broken at the plastic elbow and seized.

Attachment 39463

A few weeks ago actually, but installed the late style pull straps on my early '81 car. Pics of the progress below:

Attachment 39467

Attachment 39468

Attachment 39469

Attachment 39470

Attachment 39471

Attachment 39472

Attachment 39473

Attachment 39474

Attachment 39475

Attachment 39476

I have been quietly working on the refurbishment of 2065 in Australia since I purchased it in June 2015.

Steering, brakes, wiring issues and water leaks have been fixed so thought it was time to tackle the doors with a hit list as follows:-

1. Check operation of the central locking – works intermittently from passengers door only
2. Fix/adjust the sliding windows on both doors, and
3. Check why the driver’s door occasionally locks and won’t open without a lot of jiggling of the door lock and opener from inside.
4. Contemplate an upgraded or remote locking system.

Got the passengers door interior panel off and checked the door lock/open operation. The passenger’s side lock/open has always been fine so it was a good way to learn how everything works.

I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.:ohcrap:

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.

I don’t appear to have an inertia switch and I’m not game to play with the door relays (numbered 13 & 14) in the fuse box just yet (not sure that would have any effect):thinkin:

Any advice would be very much appreciated. There's got to be a way to open this door!

OZ DMC
2065
Australia

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. :swear1: In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:
]

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Must be a very early car. Later cars have a notch on either end of the plate so that you can press the tabs in with a small screwdriver. Here's a hint - before you put it back together, or even later, drill a small hole (3/16) on either end of the hole that the switch snaps into. This will give you access to the tabs without any special tools. This is hidden when the escutcheon is in place.

Take a look at this photo - you can see the notches at either end of the rectangular hole. That's what they are there for, and the folks in the factory figured it out in about week #3. . . .

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx...rge/105227.JPG

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OZ DMC

I
I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.:ohcrap:

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.


OZ DMC
2065
Australia

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You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

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Thank you Dave,

I closed the door with a good slam as it was only half closed. Now the door seems to be to be fitting too tight as the door now sits a fraction lower than the rear quarter panel whereas it was nice and flush before. Door fit and closing has not been a problem before, just the locking mechanism.

I will keep at it.

Very much appreciate your response.

Best regards.
OZ DMC

Dave's 100% spot on. I had this EXACT same thing happen to me a number of years ago. I did as he described, and after LOTS of persistence working the inner mechanicals by hand it eventually popped open.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon. :nervous:

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You do know that DMCH has reproduction LH/RH escutcheons available, right?

Uncovered 6864 from 14" of snow that we got here in the Mountains of N.C. Took advantage of a 60 degree day and checked fluids etc... Installed a new throttle body plate that I spent $80 on and have no idea if it will improve air flow or not,but,car seems to start faster and settles into an idle more quickly. Love every opportunity to get into the VOD and did some general cleaning and re-routing of wires while I was in there. Replaced the pin that holds the throttle linkage onto the ball too.While I was at it for no reason at all I took the Stainless overflow tank off and gave it a good cleaning inside and out and toppped off with fresh Anti-freeze. Driving it tomorrow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave

Must be a very early car. Later cars have a notch on either end of the plate so that you can press the tabs in with a small screwdriver. Here's a hint - before you put it back together, or even later, drill a small hole (3/16) on either end of the hole that the switch snaps into. This will give you access to the tabs without any special tools. This is hidden when the escutcheon is in place.

Take a look at this photo - you can see the notches at either end of the rectangular hole. That's what they are there for, and the folks in the factory figured it out in about week #3. . . .

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx...rge/105227.JPG

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Thanks for the tip Dave. Yeah, those little tabs would've saved the day.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 81dmc

You do know that DMCH has reproduction LH/RH escutcheons available, right?

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:facepalm: No, I didn't realize that! That's great that they're available again. Oh well, at least I was on my toes when I took it off!

Thanks for the update.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by opethmike

Dave's 100% spot on. I had this EXACT same thing happen to me a number of years ago. I did as he described, and after LOTS of persistence working the inner mechanicals by hand it eventually popped open.

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Thanks opethmike,

I have had to suspend operations for the moment to attend to family issues but I will crack this sooner or later.

Thanks for your response.

Best Regards

OZ DMC

Tidying engine.

I always find it a bit embarrassing opening the engine bay.
You have all this sleek stainless, people are interested. ..... and its like
opening the lid of a parts bin wires, tape, connectors. ... yuck!

I spent a couple of hours covering and a little rerouting. ....

Attachment 39492

Also made a cover for the naff looking resistors. Made from perforated stainless, very happy with it. ........
Attachment 39491
Attachment 39493

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88KPH

Tidying engine.

I always find it a bit embarrassing opening the engine bay.
You have all this sleek stainless, people are interested. ..... and its like
opening the lid of a parts bin wires, tape, connectors. ... yuck!

I spent a couple of hours covering and a little rerouting. ....

Attachment 39492

Also made a cover for the naff looking resistors. Made from perforated stainless, very happy with it. ........
Attachment 39491
Attachment 39493

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Is your ballast resistor stock, because it isn't wired up correctly?

The stock resistors have a joint on the right side, which then three connections are on that side and only a single connection on the left side.

That blue plastic wire connector (presumably) helping you turn the engine bay light on and off could be replaced with the little tab that was meant to go there...

http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Michael Babb

A few weeks ago actually, but installed the late style pull straps on my early '81 car.

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Looks good! I have the kit to do the same to my '81, thanks for posting the pics.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Is your ballast resistor stock, because it isn't wired up correctly?

The stock resistors have a joint on the right side, which then three connections are on that side and only a single connection on the left side.

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Someone else said that too. Has anyone got a nice clear pic (showing wire colours) of one wired correctly? Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88KPH

Someone else said that too. Has anyone got a nice clear pic (showing wire colours) of one wired correctly? Cheers

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The lighting on this photo doesn't let you see the colours of the wires very well, so I included the schematic someone made as well.

This was the first, and only time, my car let me down (...not counting a plugged auto trans filter last season). It was the first season I had the car and when my resistor wasn't wired right, it melted off one of the connectors just as I parked the car at an A&W cruise night. Car wouldn't start and another car guy saw it and we put a new connector on. But since the wires were not on the right terminals (I was missing that double metal tab on the upper right) it happened again a week later. That was the first time really using the forum and benefiting from the kind of help you get here. I posted a photo and had a few guys tell me how to fix it within the hour.

Attachment 39509Attachment 39510

EDIT: just noticed that photo also shows that engine bay light switch tab I mentioned. Now, my switch, when I got my car originally, didn't work 'cause you can see the bottom half of the switch is spilling out from the plastic clips in the middle having snapped. New switch and good to go. Same switch used in the glovebox too if anyone was ever in a bind to get that working. Not sure why someone would be in a bind with those though as neither of them do much lighting up.

Today I finished installing my driver side window motor. I also replaced all 24 M5 rocker panel screws. Thankfully, they all came out. I cleaned the rivnuts and applied never-seize on the new ones.

Next on the list is the DLM mod, and latch/lock adjustment while I have the door panel trim off.

Attachment 39594

Attachment 39595

Attachment 39596

Changed wiring on my resistor.

I added a third brake light. I used two 4.7 inch light bars with smoked lenses from Custom Dynamics. The smoked lenses are barely noticeable underneath the top louver until they turn bright red. I like how the red light bars are split up because of the center louver bracket. It matches the dual left and dual right brake lights.

Attachment 39597Attachment 39598Attachment 39599

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Edwin5814

I added a third brake light. I used two 4.7 inch light bars with smoked lenses from Custom Dynamics. The smoked lenses are barely noticeable underneath the top louver until they turn bright red. I like how the red light bars are split up because of the center louver bracket. It matches the dual left and dual right brake lights.

Attachment 39597Attachment 39598Attachment 39599

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Very Cool! That's the most incognito 3rd brake light I've seen yet. :thumbup2: Does it attach with 2 sided tape etc, and how did you run the wires?

Cheers,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DMC-81

Very Cool! That's the most incognito 3rd brake light I've seen yet. :thumbup2: Does it attach with 2 sided tape etc, and how did you run the wires?

Cheers,

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The top of the light bars were flat enough for me to use 2 sided tape. I did use EdR5150's write up on how to run the wires here - http://www.16908.info/?p=1161

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Edwin5814

The top of the light bars were flat enough for me to use 2 sided tape. I did use EdR5150's write up on how to run the wires here - http://www.16908.info/?p=1161

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Which Custom Dynamics' product did you use for this?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iflights

Which Custom Dynamics' product did you use for this?

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I used the Knight Riderz light bar model LB01S - http://www.customdynamics.com/knight..._light_bar.htm They sell them on their website and on eBay.

I didn't care for the Knight Rider sequential lights and the flashing brake lights. They are expensive, but worth it for being just the right size to hide. The keyword, per DMC-81, and what I was going for is "incognito".

Attachment 39600

I'm curious if used a piece of aluminum angle to transition the back side 3M to the underside of the upper louvre?

I installed a similar setup 20 years ago but they were designed for 90 degree mounting with 3M tape. The only issue I had with the install was the original adhesive tape would let go from the louvre on occasion due to Solar Heating of the louvre. I fixed that be using white 3M VHB tape.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d8db10c155.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a298134c22.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...4aca0cbafa.jpg

These units came from JCWhitney but were discontinued years ago.


Dennis

I'm also very interested in what you did to deal with the "90 degree mounting" issue.

I would like to put in a 3rd brake light, but wasn't sure how to mount them so they point back and not down (assuming the backside surface is what you're taping it directly to).

Today I fitted jewellery
Attachment 39610

Not as pretty fitted!
Attachment 39609

Thanks dave/julee/mike/suzy!

I think I had a lucky escape!
Attachment 39611

I went into the garage to get some stuff and saw that it was still there.

Removed separating windshield, both torsion bars, right front fender, and fascia. Time for a proper door alignment!

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psvcavcy2o.jpg


http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psh6ufoxv7.jpg

think your garage is too small!

My new springs have been on for a while, so yesterday I adjusted my rear suspension to match the height of my "lowered" front suspension (I was conservative on the height - basically 2 inch gap). I got lucky and ended up getting all the fender gaps within 1/16" of each other. I see that the tie rods and drive axles are almost level at this height.

Front:
Attachment 39615

Rear:
Attachment 39616

Now I can take the car in to have an alignment done, and hopefully on the same trip, get my door windows tinted.

Hey Dana, how do you still have a 2 inch gap with lowered springs on the front? That seems too high.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gregadeth

Hey Dana, how do you still have a 2 inch gap with lowered springs on the front? That seems too high.

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Yeah, that was my choice in springs. I didn't want the front tire to be within "striking distance" of those fenders. :paranoid: I also didn't want the ride to be too harsh. I think I'm now within 1 or 2 clicks on the shocks of an ideal ride for me.

I find it is now a "normal" height, rather than lowered, compared to the original front springs.

To each his own I guess. :)

Installed front windshield with denatured alcohol, window weld, and an extra set of hands...

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psfnv9kl0m.jpg

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psswi4cjsk.jpg

http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/o...psdgloivyy.jpg

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88KPH

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

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The wheel is a Momo Millenium Evo, but an adaptor is needed for it to fit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 88KPH

Liking the steering wheel, what is it?

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I just sold one, but it looks like a few others have popped up again on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331405766648...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252154617429...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Patrick C

I just sold one, but it looks like a few others have popped up again on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331405766648...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252154617429...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I had one of those, and it was complete junk IMHO. In the end, I bought a genuine Momo to replace the cheap knockoff.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 81dmc

I had one of those, and it was complete junk IMHO. In the end, I bought a genuine Momo to replace the cheap knockoff.

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Excellent choice [emoji106]


Dennis

I painted one side vent last night using Rustoleum Paint for Plastic. Not too bad. I was planning on working on the rest and repainting the bumpers today, but it is way colder than I anticipated.